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Sept 23, 2017 1:44:55 GMT
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Hi, earlier in this thread I notice that you are painting finished body parts in what looks like a red oxide type primer, and think you mention "construction primer"? I didn't pick up a deeper explanation for this, but one of my issues on a very slow (years!) MGB do up is, as I sort out bits around the body, how to I protect those bits as I go? I'd like to coat the whole shell in an expoxy eventually, but my current set up doesn't really allow me to do that piecemeal. Most of the paints I've seen require recoating in a very short time. What is that paint you use and what is the next process... do you then have to remove it all to finally prime? I'd be back where I started! Any other suggestions? Thanks Construction primer really gives you something quick & easy to prime bare metal areas to prevent them from rusting whist you continue to undertake repairs on the rest of the vehicle - I use it both in a aerosol & a spraygun applied process dependant upon the area / panel sizes - it's mainly a red oxide type primer Importantly you need to apply a decent couple of coats of it and take into account single pack / solvent based primers can absorb moisture - dependent upon your workshop conditions you need to consider air flow - ideally dry airflow - preventing condensation and consider the use of a dehumidifier - the primer can be just be sanded to create a key for your final 2k primer / epoxy primer coats - you could always consider brushing on / rolling an epoxy primer (which does not absorb moisture once cured) over your work areas - just mix a small batch up - wear the correct PPE including mask etc and only apply in well ventilated conditions (there are quite a few forum members who utilise this method with good results) - let me know if you require further info on the brands of construction primers that I use - Chris Thanks Chris, yes please for the brands you use. Does PPE for rolling or brushing epoxy primer include an air fed mask, or is a combination of organic cartridges and very good ventilation sufficient? Thanks again.
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Sept 29, 2017 6:34:37 GMT
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Grumpynortherner
When joining two panels and spot welding with mig what should you use to rust proof the join before welding. I'm replacing a whole lower sill and obviously the bottom lip join is where water potentially accumulates. I don't want to do the job then find rust starting 6 months later. I don't know what manufacturer used it doesn't look like there was anything special in there.
Quite difficult to seal above the join once welded if that makes sense.
Thanks G
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Sept 29, 2017 10:18:24 GMT
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Construction primer really gives you something quick & easy to prime bare metal areas to prevent them from rusting whist you continue to undertake repairs on the rest of the vehicle - I use it both in a aerosol & a spraygun applied process dependant upon the area / panel sizes - it's mainly a red oxide type primer Importantly you need to apply a decent couple of coats of it and take into account single pack / solvent based primers can absorb moisture - dependent upon your workshop conditions you need to consider air flow - ideally dry airflow - preventing condensation and consider the use of a dehumidifier - the primer can be just be sanded to create a key for your final 2k primer / epoxy primer coats - you could always consider brushing on / rolling an epoxy primer (which does not absorb moisture once cured) over your work areas - just mix a small batch up - wear the correct PPE including mask etc and only apply in well ventilated conditions (there are quite a few forum members who utilise this method with good results) - let me know if you require further info on the brands of construction primers that I use - Chris Thanks Chris, yes please for the brands you use. Does PPE for rolling or brushing epoxy primer include an air fed mask, or is a combination of organic cartridges and very good ventilation sufficient? Thanks again.
Apologies for the delayed response - PPE wise you are fine with gloves / good ventilation and a standard face mask with organic cartridge filters for brushing / rolling epoxy primers Currently using a Glasurit primer in aerosol format but any good quality anti corrosion / zinc rich primer will do the job for you - Bonda is the brand that I use for spraying larger areas - again any zinc based primer will do the job for you - best places to source these products from is a local automotive paint factors / suppliers - from experience I find the independent factors / suppliers are more helpful than the larger / multiple outlet / chains
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2017 10:20:59 GMT by Deleted
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Sept 29, 2017 10:39:12 GMT
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Grumpynortherner When joining two panels and spot welding with mig what should you use to rust proof the join before welding. I'm replacing a whole lower sill and obviously the bottom lip join is where water potentially accumulates. I don't want to do the job then find rust starting 6 months later. I don't know what manufacturer used it doesn't look like there was anything special in there. Quite difficult to seal above the join once welded if that makes sense. Thanks G Ideally a weld through primer on both of the mated surfaces prior to welding - there are a few brands shown in the image below - anything that is zinc rich - normally available in aerosol - the UPOL one is available in Halfords but you will find them online if you do a little hunting Welded areas / panels that you can access externally once you have welded the sill on can be primed / painted as normal - however it's critical that you treat the box section inside the sill once welding is completed - normally you can access with a lance through the access holes on the inner sill if using a sultz type gun or you can purchase cavity wax in a aerosol format - personally I do not rate Waxoil but Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber both sell cartridge & aerosol formats on line and come highly recommended from me - let me know if you require any further info - Chris
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Sept 30, 2017 19:07:51 GMT
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Grumpynortherner When joining two panels and spot welding with mig what should you use to rust proof the join before welding. I'm replacing a whole lower sill and obviously the bottom lip join is where water potentially accumulates. I don't want to do the job then find rust starting 6 months later. I don't know what manufacturer used it doesn't look like there was anything special in there. Quite difficult to seal above the join once welded if that makes sense. Thanks G Ideally a weld through primer on both of the mated surfaces prior to welding - there are a few brands shown in the image below - anything that is zinc rich - normally available in aerosol - the UPOL one is available in Halfords but you will find them online if you do a little hunting Welded areas / panels that you can access externally once you have welded the sill on can be primed / painted as normal - however it's critical that you treat the box section inside the sill once welding is completed - normally you can access with a lance through the access holes on the inner sill if using a sultz type gun or you can purchase cavity wax in a aerosol format - personally I do not rate Waxoil but Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber both sell cartridge & aerosol formats on line and come highly recommended from me - let me know if you require any further info - Chris I do have the spray on bilt hamber that i used inside the cross member repairs, i also have the wand, which is quite effective as you can rotate it whilst applying. Weld thru primer is a good shout, i'll get some of that for applying pre weld. I also bought 2 pack primer to paint all the panels and repairs as i was getting rust on primered bits because car is lying in storage. Primer i was using was zinc182. I did apply numerous coats of zinc 182 to inner wheel well repairs and that hasn't rusted however. I will be going over it with the two pack primer though. Thanks for advice Chris, much appreciated.
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Dec 17, 2017 23:36:46 GMT
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Hi,
Quite new to this body work wizardry and honestly have not got a clue. I have just picked up a 106git to do up with my son and there is some rust but from what I can see it is only surface rust.
I understand that I need to remove all of it with wire brushes etc but what do I do/use after to make sure it does not come back.
Thanks for any input.
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Hi, Quite new to this body work wizardry and honestly have not got a clue. I have just picked up a 106git to do up with my son and there is some rust but from what I can see it is only surface rust. I understand that I need to remove all of it with wire brushes etc but what do I do/use after to make sure it does not come back. Thanks for any input. Once you have got it to bare metal and has much of the rust removed without over thinning the metal through abrasion - ideally you need to use a rust convertor before applying a primer - I use Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80 - that is providing the panel not perforated with the rust (then it becomes a very different ball game) - use a good quality primer once converted - deep rust pits can be filled with a polyester filler - then re-primed prior to final paint - I am just doing this on a restoration with the process so if you read through the last page (11) on this thread it will demonstrate the process in pictures forum.retro-rides.org/thread/196036/jowett-bradford-utility-restoration-progress - just post up if you need any further info or have any problems - Good luck - Chris
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Dec 18, 2017 20:03:44 GMT
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Great thank you!
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Dec 28, 2017 21:48:53 GMT
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Hi just a quick question, do I cavity wax inside the chassis legs before expoy prime the floors etc or after?
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Dec 28, 2017 22:42:35 GMT
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Jim, after. Paint wont stick to wax!
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Jim, after. Paint wont stick to wax! Thanks blackpop! I never even thought if that!
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Jim, after. Paint wont stick to wax! Thanks blackpop! I never even thought if that! Exactly what BPR has stated - plus if you have any other paintwork on the vehicle ensure that this is completed too has a fresh application of any cavity waxes will emit silicone vapours and could give you problems with paint application elsewhere
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Hi All. Brilliant thread but appears to end in Dec 17. Does it continue elsewhere?
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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Jul 21, 2018 10:32:13 GMT
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Is there a different method to painting fiberglass than you do to steel panels? My TVR bonnet needs repainting due to some mods and I am unsure what to demand from my body shop to get an okay result. Not after concours finish.
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Jul 21, 2018 11:17:52 GMT
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Hi All. Brilliant thread but appears to end in Dec 17. Does it continue elsewhere? Nope - It relies more upon members posting up questions / problems that I can then respond to - that's not to say that the response cannot come from a member whom has product knowledge or experience of the situation arising either - my viewpoint comes from the professional side of the fence but takes into account what experience / equipment / facilities & materials that the member may have access to
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Last Edit: Jul 21, 2018 13:07:57 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 21, 2018 11:33:24 GMT
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Is there a different method to painting fiberglass than you do to steel panels? My TVR bonnet needs repainting due to some mods and I am unsure what to demand from my body shop to get an okay result. Not after concours finish. There is in the preparation stages - any cracks / star cracks must be dealt with properly - if they are just covered over with a skim of filler I can guarantee that they will appear through the fresh paintwork within a short period time - the only way deal with this type of damage is to cut / chase the cracks out of the surface and make good the fibreglass with resin / mat / tissue - reinforcing the damage again with resin / mat / tissue if required / accessible from the underside / rear of the panel - once completed the gel coat / surface area can be made good / reprofiled has required prior to paint - most modern day automotive paints are suitable for refinishing suitably prepared fibreglass surfaces - especially 2 pack paint systems & water based base coats with a clear finishing coat applied over it - some automotive primers & paints are especially produced for the refinishing of plastic & fibreglass - providing your chosen bodyshop has experience of handling / refinishing such substrates / materials to a good quality finish you should be fine - but do your research on the bodyshop - there is nothing worse than having to have the job done twice - especially if it is your wallet that has fund any remedial work - good luck - Chris
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Last Edit: Jul 21, 2018 11:34:47 GMT by Deleted
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Jul 21, 2018 12:09:19 GMT
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Chris. Thanks. I understand. The thread just appeared to stop at the end of 2017 and I wondered if there was a reason for it.
I notice that earlier in this thread you recomment POR, but in a reply to one of my enquiries on the Jupiter thread you said you didn't rate it. I understand not burying rust under gobs of goo, you have to get rid in some way, but has the product gone off in quality, like so many, or has something better come along
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Jul 21, 2018 13:12:18 GMT
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Chris. Thanks. I understand. The thread just appeared to stop at the end of 2017 and I wondered if there was a reason for it. I notice that earlier in this thread you recomment POR, but in a reply to one of my enquiries on the Jupiter thread you said you didn't rate it. I understand not burying rust under gobs of goo, you have to get rid in some way, but has the product gone off in quality, like so many, or has something better come along From my prospective there are better methods & products now available for dealing with the problems of removing / refinishing / preventing further rust problems from repaired / rust problem areas
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Jul 21, 2018 13:54:33 GMT
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Thought that might be the case. Technology both electronic and chemical, marches on!
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Jul 28, 2018 13:25:01 GMT
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So is that a No with the por15 ?
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