dazcapri
North East
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Posts: 1,056
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Well - I'll try and get it out first, as I don't have a grinder. nomad you said find a better version of the Erbauer nut removers - there's an Irwin set, but it doesn't seem to have an appropriate size whereas I reckon the 9/16 would probably chew on to the most rounded head. Reckon it'll be alright? I could pick one up tomorrow. OItherwise there's a Blue Spot set that's about a tenner more but has a lot more sizes, mostly in 1mm increments. Spend the extra and wait, or do you think the Erbauer is worth a look? Edit: **** it they'll be here tomorrow, I'll get the bigger set. And a proper size breaker bar. I've got the Irwins they've rarely let me down good luck
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Mk3 Capri LS
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^ I often use "own-brand" tools for DIY work (including Screwfix Erbauer), but normally spend more and get decent "engineering" tools. Experience says it's worth paying a bit more for "important" jobs as you only have 1 chance for it to work. Hope that makes sense? A mate has a car repair workshop and uses a lot of Blue Spot kit ("made by Snap On" apparently ), next down my list would be would be Irwin, then Erbauer. They *should* all work but... Footnote (as I saw your edit) - go for the bigger set
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I think it's blue point that are the snap-on Chinese made stuff, I've got stubby AF spanners by blue spot and they seem decent enough, mostly went for these for range of sizes. The 15mm hopefully should be just about right as a 15mm spanner just about goes on (aside from it being round!). I think it's supposed to be 5/8. I'll either have a go tomorrow or Wednesday depending when the Amazon man comes
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Got my grip nuts quite early today: They're magic! They're actual magic! Ha! Have that. Nice bit of rust on them. The grip nuts, my favourite big t-bar and a jack handle got them off in the end, one was so tight I thought I was going to give myself a hernia but none of them actually broke so that's nice. Once I got them in the vice the nipple came out easy with the grip nut. The second nipple I actually cracked while it was on the car but I still made sure I cracked the caliper bolts even though I didn't take it off. I've only got one decent hose clamp - I did buy some draper ones to bring me up to three which should be enough to get all the brakes off at once, but they don't grip the brake hoses tight enough. I'll nip and get some more of the orange ones soon, although it's just started snowing. So the brakes are Lockheed and 112 018 seems to be the model, and I think it says Q18 underneath. 112018 seems to be the model used on MGBs and some other bits, but I'm unsure about the second part. Although I've got the nipples out, and I reckon I can use the grip nuts to get the ones off the rear also, I'm leaning towards replacing all the calipers. Off to find out if there are bigger better calipers I can fit to the front. I figure if I'm planning on putting a more powerful engine out of an MX5 in, it's wise. New flexis, rear cylinders, maybe master cylinder as well. Dunno yet.
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Front brakes being sent off to Bigg Red today for a refurb. Current plan is to either buy new rear cylinders or have mine rebuilt - the price for resleeving is quite a lot more than new cylinders, but according to one of the resleeving places, a resleeved unit is actually likely to be better as they're sleeved in stainless. I wonder if there's any merit to it? If the price for cylinder resleeving turns out to be per pair I'll go for it but I very much doubt that it is! When I was taking them to bits I discovered my shoes are a) very glazed and b) very worn: So I got the new ones that came with the car out. Don't fit! Of course they don't! And I can't find the correct ones anywhere so I've been in touch with a couple of places about relining the shoes. This is getting expensive, but I'm a pretty big fan of not ploughing in to the back of people so I'm going to bite the bullet and do a full-on refresh of everything except the hard lines for now. Side note, still can't get one of the nipples out of a rear cylinder, but I'll deal with that.. somehow. Maybe just dismantle the entire car around it
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Apr 23, 2018 20:45:04 GMT
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It's been a bit sporadic over winter, for your normal reasons.. cold, poor, can't be bothered! Front calipers back from Bigg Red. Rear shoes relined. I did eventually get the calipers off, and got some new bolts for them, so they're all back on now and bled through. Got new pads on as well - currently still got the old rear cylinders and master cylinder on. Its been playing up also so I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb, new accelerator pump in there also. Fiancee's dad helped me tune it back up because I was having real trouble. I've also secured the carpets properly as they were moving around everywhere and exposing the sound deadening. Took all the ropey sealer off the leaky windscreen, and have put Captain Tolleys in there instead - it actually looks like it might have done the job, but I'm going to do the inside too. Now on the lookout for a suitable rev counter to replace the non-functioning clock in the dash with. New shock bushes for the back, and... all the bushes for the front. All the ones I can see are a right old state. I'm not much looking forward to it but it needs done. Took her to the cinema a while back!
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Apr 26, 2018 11:50:20 GMT
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I need to do all the front bushes on mine, too. I have them all, I'm just loathe to do them. I can feel the sway bar clunk, though, so should probably get on with it. Looks great.
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Apr 26, 2018 17:04:10 GMT
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Insured it yesterday and took it for an MOT today - fail! As expected. The suspension and so on has got hugely worse, it's got quite the shimmy to it now.
Failed for a leaking front shock (probably the lowering finished it off) and worn track rod ends.
Payday tomorrow so I'll order up the track rod ends, will have to get the shocks off and see if I can get appropriate shorter ones. Planning on doing all four.
It's also running just dreadful! When adjusted to idle nicely once warm, it dies as soon as you put it in to gear. It runs fine with the choke out but obviously idles really fast, this all makes it a massive pain to drive because it desperately wants to go all the time, and when you put it in neutral it starts revving up quite high so there's a bit of choke fiddling at lights. Big clunk into first as well - some castrol QTF on the way and I think I may have a leak in the box as I could swear I topped it up not that many miles back. No clue really how to proceed - any opinions welcome. I have very little knack for carbs and basically no experience.
Really want to get some sort of remote servo set up when I can also but money means that will be a while. I don't think she'll see much if any of this summer due to money but that's the way it goes.
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,714
Club RR Member Number: 94
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Apr 26, 2018 20:14:20 GMT
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Sorry to hear about your problems, the carbs are normally pretty sweet so hopefully it's something simple and can be sorted fairly easily. Looks great in that car park next to the humongous Landys. Keep us posted on your progress.
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a
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Just like to say what a beauty and well worth all the work you ding on the minx .I purchased one like it in the 70s only mine was the Sunbeam Vogue .It to came with the same auto box ,smiths something like matic i think .But i had lots of problems with the box itself .I even took it to Roots in Birmingham for them to check it out .Every time i hit a hill it would keep changing up and down. But it was immaculate car and well made . Good luck with the project ..
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Little update.
Car's currently on stands in the garage, took a front and rear shock to Gaz Shocks today and they're making me up some replacements slightly shorter to accommodate the lowering. Also just received a couple of days ago a set of track rod ends.
What I really should do is use the 4 week lead time on the shocks to get her cleaned up underneath and undersealed, we'll see how my motivation lasts for such a **** job!
What I'd also really like to do is take the whole front clip off, clean it up, sort some polybushes out, and get some chassis paint on there. Bit daunting with a lack of space, but once I got started I'm sure I'd be fine.
Hoping to have an investigate of the running issues as well. Hoping that it's to do with the kickdown cable as it's a possible culprit. Should be able to find out just by disconnecting it and seeing if it behaves when it goes into gear. Hoping to get a bit of time with it this weekend.
Got a bit of vinyl trimming I can get on with in the interior too, also could look at getting some foams to shore up the front seats as well as they look tidy but are a bit collapsed.
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Your making me sick over here . Just reading your post is brilliant .I do wish that i was 30 years younger .With room to do these projects again. I have taken gearboxes out with the help of the gutter to get under the car to do it .And used the water stop tap hole in the drive to drop the old shocker down so i could get it clear ,,as the car had no jack .Good to see your post .
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Got a bit carried away today. Front clip off, stripped half of it off today. Tomorrow going to strip the other half. Will measure up for new upper and lower wishbone bushes, make sure all four ball joints are ok (I think the two on the side I took off are alright, can't feel any play. Need to get or make up some new metal clips to hold the dust covers on). Going to go at it with a wire brush, vactan and paint it. Also going to make up new front brake pipes while I'm about it. I'm the worst at taking pictures so I haven't really got any progress shots but will try and get some tomorrow.
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So the getting carried away continues. I've finally found polybushes for the front - investigated what I'd heard about Sunbeam alpines/tigers having the same front crossmember, and managed to find superflex polybushes for an alpine and match up the OEM part numbers so I've ordered those up. Getting the originals out had just been the biggest pig of a job so far, managed to get two wishbones done today at a mate's workshop. Chisels, mallets, air chisels, torches, the whole kit and caboodle. At least I can start rust treating and painting those two. Crossmember got rust treated and undersealed over the weekend, looking much better imo. Got to clean up all the fixings and see if any need replacing, all the belville washers and stuff are pretty mullered so I may see if I can get suitable replacement nuts for the worst ones while I'm at it. One question though, excuse the poor picture: In this image, the fulcrum pin bolts have a rectangular plate (on top of the fulcrum pin) and the bolts look like they have a bit of a lip in them that fits into the holes in the plate. Both of these plates bent and snapped when I removed the bolts - what are they called? Is it something I can just make up to replace, or should I buy them? I mean.. could I just use washers? I presume if washers were ok, they'd have used them. And out of curiosity... what's the purpose of it?
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,714
Club RR Member Number: 94
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May 11, 2018 15:40:55 GMT
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Calling Seth are these the same as your Hunter? Speedy Spares may be able to provide replacements.
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a
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May 11, 2018 16:13:54 GMT
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They would be similar if not the same as the Mk2 Sceptre rather than the Mk3 Hunter shape car.
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May 11, 2018 17:07:10 GMT
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Calling Seth are these the same as your Hunter? Speedy Spares may be able to provide replacements. I worked it out in the end, the nuts are actually welded to them, and I should have just undone the bolts from the other end! I just thought they were rusted on. Berk. I’ve had no luck finding them so I think I’ll just have to make them up and weld the nuts. The front end I think is the same as a Minx V, later sunbeam Alpine’s, tigers, and obviously sceptre/vogue.
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May 11, 2018 17:57:50 GMT
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On my Sceptre they were a very big bolt with a castellated nut and split pin on the rear facing end of the bolt, i.e: undo from the rear and remove the bolt to the front.
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May 13, 2018 18:46:20 GMT
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First lot of bits painted up. Just Vactan, wire brush, Hammerite. I think I will brush on some underseal to the lower wishbones though, hopefully stop them chipping too much.
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