pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Sept 29, 2017 16:42:15 GMT
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It all came down to what was available, what was priced well and what swayed me is that I already know how to wire the VAG engines :-) I'm not so sure about the DSG, as the ones over here never came with it. The only thing of Mk4 era in the UK that came with DSG was the TT 3.2 that I'm aware of? I have a favour to ask of you 79cord, would you mind looking to see where the drain holes are on the sills of your integra(s), or your crx etc (anything of a similar era to this civic). I could only find drain holes for the part where the rear arm bolts up to. Nothing on the rear sill itself? I am thinking I will need to add a drain hole somewhere.
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,608
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Sept 29, 2017 22:58:04 GMT
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Here's a pic of the rear sill drainige points on my ED Civic with more predictably along the sill every 30cm or so. (Must have just assumed DSG due to Auto's.)
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Last Edit: Oct 1, 2017 10:42:12 GMT by 79cord
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Oct 19, 2017 18:34:49 GMT
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^ That is a great help, thanks! I had no idea it had 2/3 there, given mine had all rotted away.. So the green circle is where the intact original drain holes are, red is where I have welded up what was left of one so I will be opening that back up & the black arrow is where I obviously need to add a drain hole for the end of the sill. I am thinking to drill a hole in this location, then make a small panel to replicate the one in the intact civic ed above to spot weld on top to stop water ingress from the road? Really not sure! I made up the floor for the rear end. I really should have made swage lines in it before I welded it in (only tacked it in these photos, now fully welded but it bloody warped!) it WAS nice and level. I'll sort it at a later date, just wanted the floor to be whole again So to cheer myself up I thought 'I will trim off the rust from the better condition rear arch. That'll make me feel better'. Well, nope. Reason it looked way better is because the wondrous bodyshop had repeated the same on this side AND absolutely filled it with fibreglass filler/mesh. Great. And for all the honda purists, here's the engine donor picked up & in storage Sounds ace. Cheers
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2018 23:53:50 GMT by pegwie
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,608
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Jacking point covering drain hole certainly is heavy gauge metal to rust away. Don't envy having to recreate metal with lacework of multiple panels as a guide, especially when you have to replace the lot at once loosing reference points. New floor will make exhaust muffler packaging much easier. Add Peugeot spare mounting beneath or central exhaust?
Will be interesting to see the difficulties cramming in the bulk of V5 !
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Last Edit: Oct 20, 2017 12:14:32 GMT by 79cord
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Dec 17, 2017 13:56:40 GMT
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Winter time really takes away enthusiasm (and christmas takes away funds...). If someone could offer some motivational speeches that would be great haha
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2018 22:52:27 GMT by pegwie
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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Dec 17, 2017 17:04:51 GMT
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Many years ago I bought a new GL. Before that I had a Mk2 XR2 and the Honda was brilliant apart from lacking the low down grunt the XR2 had. After a couple of pairs of front tyres I decided to lower it a small amount and fit 15" wheels, similar to the 5 spokes found on Escort Cosworths. After that it was even more fun to drive. My big plan was to fit another engine, possibly one from a Prelude but at the time I had no idea if it would fit or not. One thing I liked about Honda engines is that they fit the right way round for things like brake servo clearance etc. Most other small hatches are designed LHD and are a bit of a lash up.
I would really love another one but finding one cheap enough that didn't need extensive welding is a bit of an impossible task and a lot seem to have had previous bodge repairs like your has. Keep up the good work.
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Jan 17, 2018 23:19:18 GMT
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Many years ago I bought a new GL. Before that I had a Mk2 XR2 and the Honda was brilliant apart from lacking the low down grunt the XR2 had. After a couple of pairs of front tyres I decided to lower it a small amount and fit 15" wheels, similar to the 5 spokes found on Escort Cosworths. After that it was even more fun to drive. My big plan was to fit another engine, possibly one from a Prelude but at the time I had no idea if it would fit or not. One thing I liked about Honda engines is that they fit the right way round for things like brake servo clearance etc. Most other small hatches are designed LHD and are a bit of a lash up. I would really love another one but finding one cheap enough that didn't need extensive welding is a bit of an impossible task and a lot seem to have had previous bodge repairs like your has. Keep up the good work. Oooh a GL is far too upmarket for me So everyone keeps telling me about the handling, I'm quite looking forward to it! Yeah, when I've seen them for sale on various popular sites, they are as you say bodged up or rusting away. Touch wood the floorpan of mine seems nice and solid with a few bits of surface rust. Well I lost motivation with this as (warning: excuses incoming) it's really cold up at my workshop, I need to get a new space heater... or does anyone know some decent plans for a waste oil burner? Did a bit when my mate came up with his newly acquired golf. I got this panel primed, there's a few small bits of filler work to neaten up and a final flat back before I can paint it. I need to pull my finger out really, my recently bought daily PD150 mk4 has decided it doesn't like it's gearbox or head gasket, so the civic may need to see the road sooner than I'd hoped! Also my friend has a del sol sat about, D16z6 so it looks like I may be going with that after much persuasion...but I am Mr Indecisive so we shall see
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lightyearman
Part of things
GYJDM - Grimsby based Japanese car club - Find us on Facebook
Posts: 639
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Excellent n the arch repairs there! I have to say, they aren't the worst I've ever seen but they certainly were doing the best job of hiding it I've ever seen! Christ that body shop wants naming and shaming. Anyway. The D16z6 is a fantastic motor. Its lightweight and narrow because of the single cam head - (the camshaft n these look insane as its single cam, 16 valve, with vtec so it has about a million lobes on it) They are very tuneable, lots of American tuning parts are made for this particular lump and they tend to be cheap too. They also handle boost better than most stock Honda donks. Circa 130 brake off the bat and a rev limit around 7600. Stay away from the cheap generic chips that claim more power and let it rev to 8k, the standard rev limit is generous on these and I've seen ring lands break up. My EG Civic ESI with this engine ended up smoking like a train and so did my mates Rover coupe that was z6 swapped. The H22 seems to be overlooked but I think that's only because there are fewer aftermarket parts available and its heavy compared to a B /D /K swap. K20 is the best standard engine Honda have made to date in most opinions but its still pricey, its very tall for an EF chassis and the conversion requires more fabrication. So for my two pence I'd say you are definitely on the right track with the z6 if its available
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'89 Honda CRX siR Glassroof Flint black fully restored track beasty '90 Nissan S13 Pignose - pass the mig wire '86 Mini - matt orange, 13" Wellers, Project 2018 '97 LDV Convoy home built camper/tramper van '04 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT. Anyone want it? '91 Honda VFR400 NC30 17,000 km from new '87 Honda XR80 4 stroke baby crosser '03 Mini Cooper S - honestly, they are fun... '15 VW T5.1 LWB daily brick
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Well I have had a spurt of enthusiasm with the civic lately so I got a few bits done! Didn't feel like doing any welding, wanted to do some fun bits to get me going again so; Started stripping the front end down to get the engine out D13 and auto box out Then I test fitted the vag 1.8t engine, put an 02j diesel box on it for test fitment. Oh, did I mention I've finally decided on an engine? haha It fits nice and snug inbetween the chassis legs, no notching required! The civic is non power steering so the pump can come off, with a little bit of the bracket removed it will fit without fouling & mean I can rotate the engine 45 degrees to lower the inlet manifold. The rear subframe needs notching to accommodate the bottom section of the gearbox diff casing. I can't take a huge amount out of it as the steering rack is under it, but dropping the front of the engine brings this up so it won't need much removing, in theory! I can mess about and figure out mounts now that I know it fits, cheers
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2018 18:58:47 GMT by pegwie
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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I really hope you pull this off!
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Had a bit of a late one at the workshop, got the engine sitting nicely! Rear subframe notched (forgot to take pic of it all cut out, orange bit to indicate how much finally got removed). I will plate this up to add strength back in, as a bit more needs to come out. Front cross member notched, I will be removing more under he oil filter so it can be easily accessed. Then again plating back up for strength. Drivers side mount removed partly to allow good fitment of the engine So with that done I could get the engine levelled and positioned where I wanted it. I removed the inlet manifold so I could see if the bonnet shut okay It's close! I will be getting the outlined crankcase breather section removed, to give more clearance. I'll get some AN fittings welded into the side for it instead. I then started on the gearbox mount. Using the civic top part, a SEAT toledo V5 gearbox mount on the 02j gearbox, then some 3mm plate. Happy with the position of the mount, I will be triangulating it and adding much more strength into it next So when a 20vt like this is put into, for example, a mk2/3 golf, corrado etc these 4 holes are utilised as the rear engine mount for said cars bolts right up. I'm going to weld up a mount to use these holes too, and weld back on the civic chassis rail style mount further back a bit. For the front stabilising mount, again I'm going to use a mk3 golf front bracket. I've got a spare mk2 golf front cross member which I'm going to cut the engine mount from and weld into the civic here. Cheers
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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You’d have to double check this, but I’m almost certain non turbo 1.8 20v rocker covers are flat without that raised part, or at least less pronounced
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2018 7:19:04 GMT by adi
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wodge
Part of things
Posts: 455
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This nutty Irishman seems to have some reasonable waste Oil burner designs.
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2018 7:33:49 GMT by wodge
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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The only downside to those n/a 20v rocker covers is that the breather port is on the oil cap, which is raised up. They do look so much nicer though! Pretty much finished the gearbox mount this evening, it's a fairly hefty thing! I am going to cap the top bit off, indicated by the cardboard Cheers
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Last Edit: Mar 14, 2018 2:13:42 GMT by pegwie
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Mar 14, 2018 23:17:10 GMT
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Engine is now sat on 2 mounts, holding it's own weight Pics of the rear engine mount to follow when I finish boxing in the chassis leg part Car sits at pretty much the same height as it did with the old engine in! Some of the spot welds holding the bonnet skin to the frame popped off when I pushed the engine crane into it, hence panel gap..but will sort that.
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Last Edit: Mar 14, 2018 23:24:37 GMT by pegwie
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,608
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Looks neat enough, great to see progress.
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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Can you not use a front mount? Like the mk2/3 golf conversions do? I made my own to start with but I’ve since bought a proper solid Tmount to fit
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Mar 15, 2018 11:23:29 GMT
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Can you not use a front mount? Like the mk2/3 golf conversions do? I made my own to start with but I’ve since bought a proper solid Tmount to fit Yeah I am using the mk3 bracket and the mk2 bush housing welded into the front cross member, i think i pictured it in earlier post. I know the solid mounts you mean but they're too tall for this, I'll be getting something nylon machined as an insert to replace the rubber, will be doing all 3 most likely
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adi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,426
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Mar 15, 2018 11:48:25 GMT
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You could chop the Tmount down, its only ally and redrill but it depends if you can cope with the vibration or not i guess
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pegwie
Part of things
Posts: 95
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Mar 23, 2018 11:09:31 GMT
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You could chop the Tmount down, its only ally and redrill but it depends if you can cope with the vibration or not i guess It's just that given it's for the mk2 golf it makes it kind of pointless getting it for the civic as the engine height/angle etc is different I will be keen to have a road test comparison between your mk2 and this when finished!
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