On Itchy's G15 we removed and welded up a couple of large nutserts that had been fitted to the chassis to provide fixing for an ARB mount. They were not particularly effective and we will look at the mount method during future works. As well as that little job the tops of the welds were taken off and remnants of steel and sharp edges were all removed and it was given a coat of epoxy mastic.
Made a start looking at the wiring on the G21M - blooming lucky the Mazda provides an extra 40 BHP or so over old motor as the loom must be 10 times the weight of the old one. There will need to be quite a few earth points making up, and an equal number of brackets to support all of the relays fuse boxes etc.
The inclination to work on the G21M just was not there today - I may have a try tomorrow - But SLC chassis did make it out of the garage and under the body on Thursday to check the fit.
I'm happy enough with that - a few new holes to drill for shock mounts and harnesses and the like - and many holes to drill for the additional body mount points. A bit of glasswork to get over the extra bits of steel introduced.
It will get turned into a rolling chassis next week and then it will wait until it swaps places with BOY when it comes back after the roof and rear panel have been glassed back in.
Steve K on the Ning site has started to put an MX engine into a B type. Wiring is giving him a few issues too. Seems there is a lot of spare / used for something else type issues.
And this is a loom from a basic model without any frills, wind-up windows etc. I started looking at removing the wiring for the pop up headlights but its so integrated with other things the best you can do is cut it back a little. I did try and convince the owner to just rebuild a new Ginetta loom and go standalone ECU but he wants to keep it all OEM with the diagnostic ports etc. and I can see the appeal in that. Just makes my job a little more involved. especially as I like wiring to be neat and tidy, so many kits and specials die from poor electrics.
My first G32 I bought ended up almost scrapped due to poor electrics from the factory. The chassis is Galvanised the body is Polyester and it had done 16,000 miles and ran a CVH - How bullet proof do you want a car! but due to this Ginetta "factory" standard wiring.
Factory wiring involved strip and twist for installation of extra's - the original buyer of my car fell foul of ordering the car with every possible extra and after no more than 5 years it would just drain the battery and not start. Because Ginetta had gone bump and no one had any idea what the hell it was - it sat - and they also tended to leak.
Glad to say its now back on the road and being enjoyed.
Captain Itchy dropped round today and we turned the chassis into a roller.
Once we had the suspension and wheels on we visited a local car show.
Nice Gilbern GT
No idea what tickled captain Itchy but he found this particularly amusing
Quite a few nice cars that I took no photo's of as usual. There was even a Strato's replica in LHD - I will admit that I do not get the whole LHD replica thing where because the original cars were only available LHD that they make the replica LHD - Alfa engine, obvious as a replica from 50 metres, i.e. you can tell its a replica before you see it has been built LHD - You are not kidding yourself its original and even those who would know it was a Strato's would probably not know that they were only LHD and those that would can tell an original from a replica so the point is? Each to their own I guess.
Dunno what Steve used as a base but he was driving it about for a while so it was a worker. That wiring above make most Dutton looms look good, dam thats scary for a factory issue. My better half just bought an 02 plate 1600, such a tidy little car. Even though it's 'half spec' the wiring loom is all full spec, a lot of 'surplus' which is interwoven with the not surplus There are no front fog lights but the wiring is in place to just plug them in. If you look behind the blank switch panel there is a socket. One loom fits all?
Well fellow G15 molebert has said goodbye to his Gilbern GT and can put a bit more focus on his G15 - some flatting off of welds has taken place and he will very soon be at the application of paint stage on the chassis - then its chop some holes in the body for a test fit and it if it all looks "Good Enough" we can do a few more welds for the engine support, oil cooler mount and the engine cover supports and with a weekends work it will be good to go.
My Sons G15 is also getting quite close to having the glassfibre work started which will be quite a milestone - I have committed to a special 998 engine build which was an opportunity that I could not really pass on a G15 with two 998's is a but of a luxury but one will be a full race engine for a bit of hills and sprints competition.
If you fancy a G15 project or two the membership secretary of the Ginetta Owners Club is selling his two project cars - I thing he's selling them as a Job lot rather than that one or that one but I guess if you are after one it you can ask. If I recall correctly one is an early small window car like BOY and the other a later large window car like KBW/PHX/SLC. Both require extensive restoration.
And apart from the info in this thread and the Strato's thread that is as far as any assistance from me will go in respect of chassis work - I do however have a couple of sets of SS door hinges on the shelf as I stuck them in a box rather than sticking them on eBay.
Looking great dude! More the chassis work and general progress than the wiring nightmare. Great piece of work getting that back on the road too
Never really looked much at G32s but they're looking intriguing now...
They are really capable cars and with the Galv' chassis and Poly' body will last indefinitely. GOC club registrar had one as a daily for decades racking up well over 250 thousand miles - he replaced the CVH with a 2.0L Zetec along the way which transforms the car performance wise - The days of finding a cheap one are coming to an end though.
Watched a program last night all about building from scratch, a new track bound G40 - I was blowm away at how simple it all was! They were using a manual tube bender for the chassis, a basic mig welder for all the welding etc etc. Even the fibreglass parts were cut & drilled using basic cordless drills and grinders etc. IT almost looked like you could build your own from a kit at home with std home mechanic tools.
96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
Quick job this morning welding up a short exhaust assembly for Captain Itchy's G32 - it keeps leaking at the back-box flange connection so he hatched a plan to add a bit of flexibility. Didn't take long to chop it to size and run a couple of welds. That should at least sort things until he gets around to limiting the engine movement in the chassis as the torque reactions move it around a bit more than it should.
Grabbed a quick hour today to add a layer of cloth to inside of an early G15 bonnet for Mr #13 - It had a lot of damage on the upper surface that we re-gelled and coated in crystic prime coat and to strengthen it further I added some 300gm CSM around the filler opening and then layed up a piece of 288g satin weave over the entire surface. Once cured fully it will be finished off with a layer of flow coat.
It's a type of polyester gel coat that has a wax added that allows it to fully cure off in contact with air. Gel coat does not fully cure to a "dry" surface in contact with air, it stays tacky for a long time.