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Had the battery and distributor cap off in my Surf the other day to change the plugs and check the rotor. Ran like a dog for about a minute after first starting, even made some smoke when revved while it re-learned the timing, then ran like a Swiss watch as usual again.
Before that it had an unsteady (idle speed, not missing) idle even after a full engine rebuild and new idle speed control valve. Changing the coolant and air temperature sensors fixed that for good.
With you AC system, if it's been open for any amount of time (more than a few hours let's say), you'll need a new dryer as the desiccant will have gone off. Also, make sure the compressor crankshaft turns freely; if it has locked and shat itself then the system (certainly the condenser) may be full of debris and needs changing.
AC is the next job for me... I've got a seal kit to re-seal my Denso 10PA-17 compressor (I wonder if that Vitesse has a Denso compressor?; I remember your green one has a Denso alternator). Saw this video and will give it a go myself:
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1993 Toyota Hilux 2.4 Diesel 4x4 Manual 1996 Toyota Hilux Surf 2.7 Petrol 4x4 Manual
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I’ve fitted a new dryer, but connected it up to empty pipes? Will that damage it?
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If the system is open, moisture from the air will get in and render the desiccant useless
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1993 Toyota Hilux 2.4 Diesel 4x4 Manual 1996 Toyota Hilux Surf 2.7 Petrol 4x4 Manual
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Balls, better block it off then.
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Aug 12, 2018 16:21:32 GMT
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It sounds better in the flesh. I'm hoping to have it all sorted for the gathering next weekend! After the success of having it running, I put it back into a none running state by removing the battery and battery tray. It was very rusty. All the powder coat was faking off and it looked genuinely crappy. A few weeks a go I bought a shot blast kit. Its a tiny gun with a little hopper and designed for very small areas. I though it would be ideal on the battery tray. It works, but it empties the hopper in no time. That means its extremely limited in what it will do. I ended up spending more time filling the bag than actually blasting. In the end I got frustrated and returned to more conventional methods i.e. Mr Grinder and a tank of deox solution!
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Aug 13, 2018 19:07:03 GMT
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Painted all the de-rusted stuff black, then refitted it. Then I set to work trying to fix the alignment issues. Nearside front wing was easy. It was just a bit tight at the front, so I loosened the bolts, pulled it out and nipped the bolts back up again. Before After Offside wing was slightly more troublesome. It was tight at the front, bowed out at the middle, and the rear end where it meets the door was a mess. So I got the jack under the rear of the wing, my foot pressing in and 'reshaped it'! Then I fiddled around with the top. Still wasn't great, so I put some wood in the top and closed the bonnet on it. Getting there now. Headlights in. Its not perfect but better than it was. Foot and jack applied To celebrate I jacked up the rear of the car and fitted the remaining exhaust hangers and exhaust clamps. Then took the car for a quick spin. I parked it up somewhere else so I could show you all the other side!
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Aug 13, 2018 21:03:00 GMT
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Good looking car and great job you did. You seem to have copied the old Rover factory body technics with jacks, wood blocks ect. Worked well! Peter
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,840
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Rover 800 Vitessejamesd1972
@jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member 40
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So insure and ready to hit the road ? Quick work James
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Your picture is of a spot blaster. The idea is to press it hard on the panel then pull the trigger. The media and rust pings back into the bag and gets reused.
Admittedly it does hover craft off the panel quite bad and the hopper is porous (on purpose) to let air out but keep media in. You have to change media every so often as it gets contaminated with rust and paint
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2018 8:37:23 GMT by darrenh
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Aug 14, 2018 11:06:20 GMT
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sounds like i should have read the instructions!
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Aug 14, 2018 11:12:52 GMT
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So insure and ready to hit the road ? Quick work James Just got my first quote for insurance. As a second car with 1000 mileage limit, classic car policy and value of £1500. Lancaster quoted over £400!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thats almost as much as my BMW daily with business miles on it!!! What a joke. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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Aug 14, 2018 11:37:23 GMT
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A Plan at Thatcham - That particular branch specialse in cherished 2nd cars. My Merc was £140 with 5000 mile limit.
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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Aug 14, 2018 13:30:21 GMT
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A Plan at Thatcham - That particular branch specialse in cherished 2nd cars. My Merc was £140 with 5000 mile limit. Excellent, thanks. They have just insured it and my Nissan!
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Aug 14, 2018 13:35:25 GMT
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A Plan at Thatcham - That particular branch specialse in cherished 2nd cars. My Merc was £140 with 5000 mile limit. Excellent, thanks. They have just insured it and my Nissan!
No problem. I have been using them for years now and although my premium went up this year, it was only by £3 so they don't rip you off.
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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Aug 14, 2018 18:56:35 GMT
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With the car insured and taxed I took it for its first road test... ...pretty good actually. Didn't give it maximum beans as I was paranoid I hadn't tightened up the offside front wheel and I haven't actually pumped the flatish tyres up. One really annoying thing was the clutch. The pedal had a horrible action combined with a nasty noise. I wasn't too worried as its on the cabin side (ie not a gearbox out job) but warranted further investigation. Cue lots of awkward upside down poking. Quickly found the problem. It looks like someone has taken a grinder to the link pin between the pedal and the master cylinder rod. No idea why? They have then replaced it with clearly the wrong washer and a bit of wire instead of a split pin. The actual pin has worn badly. This all needs sorting out. More worrying is that the hold in the pedal is a weird shape. I might have to remove the pedal to either replace it or weld up and re-drill the hole. Access to the nut on the back side of the pivot bolt is approaching nightmareish. Ill need some brave pills before I tackle this one. bolt can just be seen at the top of this photo Next I started tarting up the interior. Here is the incredibly sad looking gear knob and gaiter. Once the gearknob was off, I found a mint plastic knob inside??? Like an alien hatchling or snake shedding its skin. The replaced the gaiter with a brand new leather one. Very impressed with the quality and fit. Then started cleaning the drivers seat leather. Super dirty. Bought a cleaning kit off ebay with a very soft nail brush and worked it in. So much curse word came off. Lots more to do though.
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Aug 16, 2018 18:06:56 GMT
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Sterling (sorry for the pun) work. That o/s wing looks like a pattern replacement to me, i can't believe that a genuine panel would fit so poorly. Some lower quality aftermarket panels on the other hand can have a 'fit where they touch' aspect.
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1980 Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 1970 Mobyleete 40T custom 1978 Mobylette 50V 1965 Moulton Standard 1979 Raleigh Grifter custom 1980 Raleigh Grifter 1982 Raleigh Grifter BMX custom 1982 Raleigh Bomber 1987 Strida
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,410
Club RR Member Number: 52
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Rover 800 Vitesseqwerty
@qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member 52
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Aug 16, 2018 18:27:48 GMT
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That leather clean is fantastic! It looks new after the clean.
Tom
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Aug 16, 2018 19:05:06 GMT
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I'm sorting through my 'might be useful one day' stocks to separate Rover from Land Rover from MX-5 from Jaguar (various). These look like 800 bits to me. Any use to you? Yours for the postage
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