Post by grumpynorthener on Oct 6, 2018 8:03:36 GMT
Very nice - are you intending on keeping it standard / original ?
1973 Rover 3500 P6 Auto - 23k miles - All original 1937 Jowett 8 HP Saloon - In many, many pieces 1951 Jowett Jupiter - In more pieces than the 8 HP 1952 Jowett Javelin - In regular use jowett.org/ 1954 Jowett Jupiter - Complete - future restoration project 2000 P38 Range Rover 4.0 SE - Daily / Tow vehicle www.flatcapclassiccars.co.uk
Year: 1951 Built: Atlanta, Georgia Body: Fisher Carbody Shape: 4 door sedan Color: Starmist Blue Trim: Deluxe Length: 16'8" Brakes: Hydraulic drums all round Engine: Inline-8 Capacity: 4.4 liter Power: 124 bhp @ 3900 rpm Torque: 245 lb/ft @ 2000 rpm 0-60: 14 seconds Transmission: Hydra-Matic Drive 4-speed fully automatic gears Fluid coupling (no torque converter) Optional extras: Dippable rear view mirror Indicators (flashing light variety) Passenger vanity mirror Traffic light lens Interior light (auto on front doors) Heater defroster with fan Under seat heater Rear wheel spats Exterior body "arrow" trim Exterior body rear wheel arch trim Clock AM radio (Sylvania)
There's the Top Trumps stats
It's already mild custom, it's been lowered a couple inches all round and will possibly staying there- around here when it rains there the roulette game "puddle or pothole" becomes common. The interior has been retrimmed in all blues (it was originally dark and light gray broadcloth, plush carpet, two tone door cards with stainles trim to match the exterior. Exterior gets the wheel arch protectors and big "arrow" side moldings). The engine is in good shape. It's smooth, moderately refined and torquey. It idles happily in gear at 375 rpm. It's no fireball, it was designed and built before big power was a sales feature- smooth and quiet was order of the day. Revved over about 4500 rpm, the crankshaft will whip and start to break conrods, it's so long. It has no counterbalance weights, being inherently balanced. The engine and gearbox account for 850 lbs (385 kg) of the car's 3300 lb (1542 kg). The car has been painted in a 1952 colour scheme (powder blue w/ midnight blue roof), the original blue was more gray. Its been subject to a fairly decent restoration about 15 years ago, looking at the condition of the body and the repairs it's had. Someone has attempted a 12 volt conversion on it. Badly. The wiring is nothing short of fire hazard so is going to be coming out. The gearbox also only selects first and third, reluctantly. It needs the valve body re-sealing. It also leaks. Thankfully it takes Dexron 2. It's got non-assist hydraulic brakes, drums all round with self-servoing shoe layout.
Long term plan is get it mechanically safe (steering is very Series Land Rover and the brakes have nearly a foot of travel before the brakes start to operate). Also, full rewire and do the 12V conversion properly.
The wiring is just plain scary. Rubber with cotton exterior, all rotten, hard, frayed and generally in poor condition after nearly seventy years.
Of the pieces that still work, there's some really nice design touches. I've replaced some light bulbs, fixed a few connectors just to see what it looks like. I've ordered some warm white LED's to replace the bulbs, mostly in an effort to reduce the power load on the switches.
It's like sitting on a couch, driving a Wurlitzer jukebox. I'm digging the lowrider-esque feel.
It's not a small car, by any means. It's not as wide as some examples of the seventies but it's certainly not short. It's as long as my full-size pickup truck. That Fiat, parked nose level with the nose of the Chieftain ends just after the B pillar. The Chieftain continues for nearly half that length again.
Started tarting things up a little. Bought some clear red lacquer and redid the wheel trim emblems.
Also did the rear flank badges. These had been painted with what looks like metallic rose (probably a darker shade that faded) and were all peeling and horrible. Again, stripped back and red lacquered.
Redid the badges too, but with the "EIGHT" in red lacquer. Because.
Cosmetically that's been it so far outside a bit of wet-flatting and polish. I've been busier with the electrics. Fired the dash up with all LED lights, first.
The rear light lenses are a bit faded so they got red LED bulbs. Had to dim the camera settings down so they didn't turn all funny in the photo..
Then I rewired the gearshift position indicator, which all the insulation had fallen off.
Made a spring boss for the throttle return spring, which screws into the flywheel housing.
Someone had attached some random springs at totally the wrong angle that were binding and making the throttle pedal feel wrong (not to mention not actually return to the stop). This here is correct. No cables here, it's all rods and linkages.
Took a hammer and drift to the steering wheel top bearing too.
Why? The bearing is dry and dirty. It's lubricated from underneath with a felt pad (in truth from the top and the felt pad catches the oil but that drags the dirt down with it) and the wiring for the horn ring didn't work. I found out why, the wire was corroded to nothing where it entered the steering column at the base.
This screw holds a little clamp plate on. It's currently soaking in penetrating oil because it looks like it was installed in 1951 and hasn't been removed since. That's next up, then I can put the steering wheel back on.
It's done pretty well, considering. The insulation is all natural rubber so has deteriorated to being all hard and crispy where it's been subject to the elements. Bend it there and it all cracks and flakes off where the cotton outer is missing.