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Looking for info on how to swap voltage. Due to no replacement engine a swap to something newer is on the cards. So it will most likely be 12v starter and alternator. How do I alter the rest of the electrical items? To be fair, I don't think there will be much. Car is an old Pontiac shooting brake with straight 8 engine. Top of the list to swap in is a Jag 6 with auto box.
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What's wrong with the original motor?
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Overheating quite badly. Owner was told it was because of corrosion making the block very thin and not absorbing the heat. I don't know if that is the case, I have only been asked about swapping it out.
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There's a bloke doing a restoration in the States, he has detailed the 6v to 12v conversion. He seems to be able to get pretty much any part he wants easy enough. www.thedarkwob.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=282I can't see how corrosion would make it overheating though unless passages are blocked or the head gasket has gone. I think despite all the work Phil had gone to you could use 12v to 6v voltage droppers to achieve the same result for all the instruments etc. Remember 6v pulls twice the amps of 12v. |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,832
Club RR Member Number: 174
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6volt to 12volt.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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It's quite common on some engines we do that a big rebore can cause overheating issues, so it's not impossible that corrosion to the other side of the cylinder could cause similar.
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It's quite common on some engines we do that a big rebore can cause overheating issues, so it's not impossible that corrosion to the other side of the cylinder could cause similar. Is there any particular reason it causes over heating? I could understand bores going out of shape if they have got really thin as I've seen it on bikes but I wouldnt have thought removing mass from the block of a liquid cooled engine would alter the thermal mass enough to make a difference? Not doubting what you are saying I'm just trying to get my head round it. |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,832
Club RR Member Number: 174
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6volt to 12volt.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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I've never really looked into it tbh, it's usually on the big-ish stuff (Cummins etc), I'm assuming it speeds up the transfer of heat from cylinder to water
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If its thin bores would sleeving be an option, or is that not possible in this case?
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,832
Club RR Member Number: 174
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6volt to 12volt.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Yeah we sleeve them, you can go to .5mm/.020" oversize pistons then anything over that we sleeve back to standard.
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Blimey I can't image +0.5mm making that much difference! Some bikes would routinely go to +2mm or much bigger using pistons for other engines without causing an issue. Got to laugh though everybody is more interested in finding out why the motor is overheating than the 6v to 12v conversion  |
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I would say that the voltage conversion is a relatively simple thing, certainly the engineer in me always looks at things and a little voice says’ hows that happening/ what makes that work/ what does that to?’ Etc etc
So the problem with the overheating, certainly for me, is more interesting than wiring.
Also, id rather have a rod through the block than an electrical fault, or is that just me?🧐
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I did wonder about putting on a temporary known good radiator and do some vigorous testing. Also if electrics are on the blink could it just be the gauge reading wrong? If I get my mitts on it I will report the progress.
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