markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Aug 30, 2021 20:22:15 GMT
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The cut up C34 has had new shocks too, these are the metal RBR/C ones that are the same style as the WPL units. These have been modified a little to have a much longer throw. But the gearbox is slipping again and the tourque twist is quite bad because it's so softly sprung, so I might end up putting the single speed I have aside for the next MN project in this one.
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diff
South East
Posts: 1,167
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Aug 31, 2021 21:20:22 GMT
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Have you ever had something arrive that you forgot that you had ordered. I wanted a C54 pretty much as soon as they were launched , but didn’t want to buy another C14/24 to mount the body to . Then I found that a CB05 was available on AliExpress which is not available direct from WPL which is a C14 rolling chassis kit with the C54 body kit . I just completely forgot that I had ordered it .
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2021 21:22:14 GMT by diff
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Sept 3, 2021 15:43:16 GMT
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Dave are you running the original electrics in the MN or third party separate reciever/ESC? Sorry Mark, I missed this post. It's all 3rd party. Flysky TX/ Rx, and a hobbywing ESC. I've messed about with trims and they all seem to work ok, as far as I can tell. I suspect Rich is correct with a binding issue somewhere. I hope. I've finally got my Harris in gear and bought some Matt black enamel to finish the body. Just got to find time to do it. Then try to make progress on the Schanke nitro body and the tot rod, all whilst working full time and putting all the stuff right that's wrong with my 1:1 scale Mondeo ST. 😃
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Sept 4, 2021 15:22:50 GMT
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Props removed one at a time and gaskets made. No difference in how it's behaving. I'm going to pull the motor out next. I built it with an upgraded unit. So I'm going to fit the original one to see if there's any change.
😃
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Sept 5, 2021 13:50:44 GMT
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Finally got into my MN that's been sitting on the shelf since I sold off the original running gear. This one was going to get the C34KM single speed that is now under the cut down C34. Having spotted a cheap generic single speed on Amazon a week or so ago I decided to get going with it. The single speed came with a pair of prop shafts too. Suspension for this one will be another set of modified RBR/C WPL style units that will be modded for increased throw as I have done before. It's also getting a GRP electrics tray and body mounts so that I can do away with the MN battery tray for more space and have a bit more clearence under the chassis for a servo on axle mount. Friday evening got the suspension links built up, a combination of threaded studs from Amazon and an assortment of third party rod ends. The chassis rails transfer case holes have been drilled higher and further forward to lift the gearbox in the chassis and make the rear drive shaft longer, to ease the angle that it needs to be at to reach the upper, counter rotating output shaft. The WPL axles got built while watching telly later. With the axles on first thing Sat I took the opportunity while Nik was at the hairdresser's to get on with the suspension. RBR/C units stripped and rebuilt so that the full length of the bore can be used. New shafts made from cut down M3x50 socket head bolts and ball ends from surplus WPL parts tapped to 3mm to avoid them splitting. With those fitted and it self supporting I cracked on with the plot paths for the GRP parts. While they were cutting I was cutting the grass and hanging up some washing. Later yesterday evening I got the extended prop shafts made and the rear body mount done adjusting how it sits so the body is lower over the chassis than stock. There's a fair bit cut out from the interior tray to for round the motor and transfer case. Very annoyingly, during the faffing, fitting and re fitting the body I've managed to loose one of the lower spring sets. These are unavailable without buying a full set and waiting for them to come from China so I'll have to make something to replace them. This will lift the ride height a little once the spring aren't sitting on the rod ends. There's a a reciever for it coming and a WPL 25g metal gear servo. It'll use one of the rubbish 60-120A ESCs I have in stock untill I can grab a HW 1060 for it.
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Sept 5, 2021 22:10:34 GMT
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Mark, you're far more clever at this than me. You're modifying and making your own parts while I'm struggling to get mine to just work. This D90 hasn't half put me off getting another model.
😃
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Mark, you're far more clever at this than me. You're modifying and making your own parts while I'm struggling to get mine to just work. This D90 hasn't half put me off getting another model. 😃 You should have seen how long it took me to figure out why the steering wasn't working on a transmitter I hadn't used before a while back. Learning that there was a % rate control was 'fun'. Didn't have anything like that on the entry level 27mhz sets I was used to.
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Sept 17, 2021 14:50:08 GMT
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Well, I've done what I said I wouldn't. I've bought another one. 😁 An RTR MN45 this time, it was £40 off the Bay, how could I not. It works and drives, which is a good start for me. So I need to upgrade some stuff, and hope it keeps working. 😃
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Sept 17, 2021 20:49:08 GMT
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Well, I've done what I said I wouldn't. I've bought another one. 😁 An RTR MN45 this time, it was £40 off the Bay, how could I not. It works and drives, which is a good start for me. So I need to upgrade some stuff, and hope it keeps working. 😃 Cool, nice mojo boost too. A few builds I've seen with these the first thing they've done is move the battery from hanging out the back to into some kind of homemade trunk behind the cab. Does it have proportional steering or are you going to have to go to third party radio fairly soon?
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Sept 17, 2021 21:26:38 GMT
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Well, I've done what I said I wouldn't. I've bought another one. 😁 An RTR MN45 this time, it was £40 off the Bay, how could I not. It works and drives, which is a good start for me. So I need to upgrade some stuff, and hope it keeps working. 😃 Cool, nice mojo boost too. A few builds I've seen with these the first thing they've done is move the battery from hanging out the back to into some kind of homemade trunk behind the cab. Does it have proportional steering or are you going to have to go to third party radio fairly soon? It isn't proportional, so that's going to have to be upgraded. Which puts me into the territory of the first lot of trouble I had with the D90. Motor will need an upgrade too, it doesn't seem to have much torque. The tyres are a strange one, 3 are soft like you get in the kits and 1 is harder. I was expecting all 4 to be the harder type. Moving the battery seems like a good idea, it's not something I'd thought about yet, so thanks for the tip. 😃
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Sept 18, 2021 8:39:58 GMT
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I think the chap building this one is opening up the bonnet and mounting the battery and electrics under there, in a similar format to the WPL FJ's.
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Sept 18, 2021 8:41:21 GMT
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Cool, nice mojo boost too. A few builds I've seen with these the first thing they've done is move the battery from hanging out the back to into some kind of homemade trunk behind the cab. Does it have proportional steering or are you going to have to go to third party radio fairly soon? It isn't proportional, so that's going to have to be upgraded. Which puts me into the territory of the first lot of trouble I had with the D90. Motor will need an upgrade too, it doesn't seem to have much torque. The tyres are a strange one, 3 are soft like you get in the kits and 1 is harder. I was expecting all 4 to be the harder type. Moving the battery seems like a good idea, it's not something I'd thought about yet, so thanks for the tip. 😃 I'll have a look through my MN tyres, I might have a spare softer one.
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Sept 18, 2021 11:20:44 GMT
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I think the chap building this one is opening up the bonnet and mounting the battery and electrics under there, in a similar format to the WPL FJ's. I've been looking at reducing the overhang on the back, nice to see it looks pretty good when done. I may have to follow that chaps route of battery in the front, as I'd prefer an empty bed. Don't worry yourself about a tyre mate, these ones aren't staying on long. Cheers though. 😃
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Sept 18, 2021 11:41:39 GMT
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I think the chap building this one is opening up the bonnet and mounting the battery and electrics under there, in a similar format to the WPL FJ's. I've been looking at reducing the overhang on the back, nice to see it looks pretty good when done. I may have to follow that chaps route of battery in the front, as I'd prefer an empty bed. Don't worry yourself about a tyre mate, these ones aren't staying on long. Cheers though. 😃 Cool, secret wheel & tyre plans? Don't forget you'll also need a propper servo when you switch to stand alone radio. 17g for these.
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Sept 18, 2021 12:56:03 GMT
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Yeah, servo is on my shopping list. No secret plans I'm afraid. I'm going to use the ones off the D90 on the 45, and I think I'm going to put some metal bead locks on the D90. I'm having to use proprietary rims cos I don't have the skill or equipment to make my own. Battery issues now. This is the one that came with the car. After a six hour charge still doesn't seem to have held any. ![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/tonycocacola/d7ee7cf46d3f.jpg) This battery works, it's the one I bought for the D90. However after a six hour charge only lasts for less than 10 minutes. Is that right? I was expecting twenty minutes at least. 😃
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,265
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Sept 18, 2021 14:26:38 GMT
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The yellow batteries are NiCad and 10 minutes is about right before they need recharging sadly. Are you charging the LiPo with the balance lead, yea? Not the power connector?
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2021 14:27:37 GMT by Rich
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Sept 18, 2021 15:14:20 GMT
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The yellow batteries are NiCad and 10 minutes is about right before they need recharging sadly. Are you charging the LiPo with the balance lead, yea? Not the power connector? The charger that came with the car and the battery only fits the white connector. Do you have any recommendations for better, longer lasting batteries? Cheers 😃
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,265
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Sept 18, 2021 15:44:38 GMT
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The yellow batteries are NiCad and 10 minutes is about right before they need recharging sadly. Are you charging the LiPo with the balance lead, yea? Not the power connector? The charger that came with the car and the battery only fits the white connector. Do you have any recommendations for better, longer lasting batteries? Cheers 😃 Cool, I’d want to try charging with an actual proper balance charger first, (good cheap one for 2 and 3S is the IMAX B3, nice slow budget balance charger) but I’ve had all sorts of different Li-po and Li-ion, all of no particular brand, all are ok. Usually get from eBay.
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Sept 18, 2021 17:49:21 GMT
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The charger that came with the car and the battery only fits the white connector. Do you have any recommendations for better, longer lasting batteries? Cheers 😃 Cool, I’d want to try charging with an actual proper balance charger first, (good cheap one for 2 and 3S is the IMAX B3, nice slow budget balance charger) but I’ve had all sorts of different Li-po and Li-ion, all of no particular brand, all are ok. Usually get from eBay. Cheers for that rich, just been looking on eBay. I'll be having one on pay day. Also, do you, or anyone else know what the black connector type is called? Looking at batteries I can't seem to find any with that type of plug. Dean's and T plugs seem to be most common. I'll change to Dean's if I have to, but I'd rather not if I can help it. 😃
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,265
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Sept 18, 2021 18:50:54 GMT
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Cool, I’d want to try charging with an actual proper balance charger first, (good cheap one for 2 and 3S is the IMAX B3, nice slow budget balance charger) but I’ve had all sorts of different Li-po and Li-ion, all of no particular brand, all are ok. Usually get from eBay. Cheers for that rich, just been looking on eBay. I'll be having one on pay day. Also, do you, or anyone else know what the black connector type is called? Looking at batteries I can't seem to find any with that type of plug. Dean's and T plugs seem to be most common. I'll change to Dean's if I have to, but I'd rather not if I can help it. Can’t recall off the top of my head, I know WPL sell them. Bognor might know..
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2021 18:51:20 GMT by Rich
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