|
|
|
|
|
|
So my HG has failed and the oil is like mayo.
When I strip it down, what’s the neat thing to clean the engine internals with? I understand maybe a flush or some oil changes once I've replaced it but I’m thinking more about the internals as I’m stripping it down.
Normally I’d use brake cleaner on things but I don’t know if that would be safe for the internals?
|
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,833
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
|
|
Are you doing a complete strip down? The easiest fastest way at home is:-
Ferrous items - crank, con rods, nuts and bolts. Basically everything iron/steel inside an engine - wash the main curse word off with a pressure washer then buy a 25 litre drum of TFR, put it in a large container and put all the parts in and leave overnight. Rinse with a pressure washer after. DO NOT PUT ALUMINIUM IN (check for any blanking bungs in crank etc(
Non ferrous - pressure wash all the main gunk off then use carb cleaner. Pressure wash again after once it's come up clean. You can use oven cleaner but you need to be careful as if you leave it too long it'll eat into the ally. The other option is to stick it in the dishwasher.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 10:58:15 GMT
|
Are you doing a complete strip down? The easiest fastest way at home is:- Ferrous items - crank, con rods, nuts and bolts. Basically everything iron/steel inside an engine - wash the main curse word off with a pressure washer then buy a 25 litre drum of TFR, put it in a large container and put all the parts in and leave overnight. Rinse with a pressure washer after. DO NOT PUT ALUMINIUM IN (check for any blanking bungs in crank etc( Non ferrous - pressure wash all the main gunk off then use carb cleaner. Pressure wash again after once it's come up clean. You can use oven cleaner but you need to be careful as if you leave it too long it'll eat into the ally. The other option is to stick it in the dishwasher. Was just thinking of taking the head off and then the sump. Not a full strip down - way beyond my means |
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,833
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 12:41:37 GMT
|
|
If I'm doing work like that and there's no evidence of debris in the oil for the bottom end I just put them on a engine stand then blast them through with a pressure washer, then blast it with a airline for a bit and give it a good coating of spray grease after to stop it rusting. You get a bit of milky oil when it's back together but it boils off within the first couple of hundred miles. What engine is it? If it's been overheated it's worth putting some diesel in the cylinders and make sure it isn't curse word through as the piston rings can lose their tension
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 13:04:54 GMT
|
|
If it is something exotic / expensive a full strip down is the only way really, anything else I would normally just drain the oil, change the filter, run some clean oil through it on the starter, drain / change the filter then run it up with the new oil and change after a few hundred miles.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 17:48:29 GMT
|
|
It’s only a 1.6 k series. I’m not sure on the best course of action really, clean it all out best I can and flush it once back together? I don’t want to create more work for myself
|
| |
|
|
slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
|
|
Nov 14, 2019 18:09:25 GMT
|
|
don't worry about it. Clean off what you can. Maybe flush the sump out with some paraffin or simlar (don't run the engine just rinse it out). When reassembled fill with cheap oil and run the engine for a few hours getting it nice and hot. The residual water should evaporate for the most part but change the oil anyway and you should be back to somewhat good. Wouldnt bother with 'engine flush' stuff. Just cheapy oil does the job.
|
| |
|
|
