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Firstly thanks to Matt (aka stealthstylz) for bending over backwards to get me my 7x16 weller wheels, I am totally in debt to you! Anyway............... the steels look ace! Stupid me has not taken any pics myself yet, but heres the pic of the front of them from e-gay........ .............now the front and back of the wheels looks the same, except for the difference in dish. If I reverse fit them (i.e. back to front) the dish is huge, the only thing that seems to be different is there is no 60 degree tapper on the other side of the rims to take the bolt. Now my question is can I simply add a 60 degree tapped to the other side of the hole and bolt them on (providing they don't stick out stupidly) is this okay? Then i'll probably chop some spring, convert it to LHD, band the rims and kill some kittens after that too
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2007 10:55:31 GMT by Robinxr4i
Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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I might be miles off here, but if you cut a 60 deg taper on the back of the rim, will it not weaken them, as you will have thinned the metal out around the stud holes? don't think you can run wheels without a taper unless you have a sleeved nut like wolfies??? be interested to see if there is a way around this!
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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Uber sh!te diagram.............
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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What about turn down some sleeve nuts so they have a little tiny short sleeve on them (the same thickness as the wheel centre)?
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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that seems like a good idea! - kev
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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What about turn down some sleeve nuts so they have a little tiny short sleeve on them (the same thickness as the wheel centre)? Ohhhhh very good idea! Got some spare nuts laying around somewhere too (that sounds dodgy)
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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starionturbo
Part of things
Is planning mental turbo action MU HUH HUH!!!
Posts: 528
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You can get nuts that have a flat edge. i used to have a load, go to a wheel dealers and see what they can get
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Hmmm... I think I'd be considering doing a proper reverse-rim job (LOL) on them. You might weaken the bolt area of the wheel for one, plus I don't think the wheel rim is symmetrical inside to outside. I don't know a lot about wheels so I won't start blindly guessing at stuff, but I think I'd be looking at other methods. Someone might come along and say it's perfectly safe and do-able, but those are my layman-esque concerns. Look damn good though!
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Rich G
Posted a lot
Keyboard Worrier
Posts: 1,059
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I'm with BenzBoy on this one. These are steel wheels not alloy, yes? If that is the case then the reversed wheel center is unlikely to sit properly against the wheel mounting face.
Also, if you just turn the rim round you'll have fun inflating the tyres as the valves will be on the inside, unless you drill new holes and either run two valves per wheel or weld up the original holes.
It would be a lot safer to get the centers moved in the rim by a competent machine shop. That way you will get the exact offset that you want.
Cheers, Rich
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It's a while since I looked at the hubs of a Sierra with discs on the back but I don't think the centres will sit flush.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Get that welder out. Weld the 60deg up and re cut it on the otherside, Also weld the valve holes up and reposition whirslt your at it.
Unless theres something strange going on it will be perfectly safe! Only problem i would forsee is if the hub diameter is bigger than the flat bit on the wheels but surely you have checked that? Unlike most peopel on this forum i like to assume people have half a brain for what they are suggesting!
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I pondered this same point when putting a weller wheel back on a Rangerover a few weeks back, If the wheel physicaly fits on then I don't see why there would be a problem if you cut the taper, lets be honest the bold holes arent going to be weekened that much, by having a taper on both sides as wellers are made from suitably thick material.
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I honestly don't think they'll clear the calipers/discs, although I can't really tell from that photo.
Adam
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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I tried this on a capri, the spokes foul the calipers when fitted reverse. Shame, cos if it worked it would look nuts. Might work on something with drum brakes......
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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It's a while since I looked at the hubs of a Sierra with discs on the back but I don't think the centres will sit flush. I honestly don't think they'll clear the calipers/discs, although I can't really tell from that photo. Adam In answer to both your question I have drums on the back of my sierra so I think it should clear going to trial fit them tonight
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,855
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I tried em on the humber back to front but didnt take any pics it looked sick.
If you can't weld the taper up to re-drill it just get another 4 holes drilled in the wheel and put the taper on the right side.
Matt
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klunk
Part of things
1949 Rover P3 V8
Posts: 371
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I did move the centres on my wellers on the rear of my Rod. It took about half a day with a couple of angle grinders (one in fridge to cool, whilst using the othe, cos they do get hot and then the grease dries up). I cut the weld, then used a bearing press to push the centre out. I then cleaned all the old weld up with a flap disc. I then turned the wheel round and pressed it back in to the desired offset. With an old axle in two vices as a jig. I used a 'tickle gauge' to check how true the wheel ran. Tack, check, tack check, then full pelt weld all round. I left the valve at the back, I thought it would look neat.....no valve.....it does.....but it's a real pain to inflate....LOL Anyway, had the tyres refitted, and they balanced up a treat. I have driven this car in excess of 100MPH at various private tracks and have had absolutely no wobble. Move the centres. Or just redrill as suggested.
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2007 11:03:30 GMT by Robinxr4i
Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Looks cool reversed, and looks pretty cool fitted as they were designed too. get to work finding some for the from so that the winter doesn't wreck the saab rims. Using the emergency jack for anything other than an emergency On a Slope!! Get the axle stands and trolley jack out and some chocks under the fron wheels.
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I have no trolley jack ... so I use other peoples or the emergency jack + axle stands... never do anything without axle stands.... safety first safety second..
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