Right day three – and the little one said roll over!
I have taken off the front suspension, as the swing arms are virtually new, and both the rear springs. Once rolled back onto its rear wheels it looked awesome, so I put one of the fronts back in the arch (nowt else in there!) and it looked like a low rider. Super super cool, my dad recons it looks like a drag car, and I agree. I like it so much that the next car I am going to make will be this but with a spaceframe and rotary turbo!
We took a trip to machine mart to get an engine stand, ive always wanted one, and now I have one. The engine was moved around in the wheel barrow, and put on the stand.
Once that was set up and ready to use I decided to break out the TIG and have a practice, I had a go at seam welding the wishbones, and it went just fine.
To lower the front end I have decided to move the spring perches down the dampers, originally the dampers used a pair of aluminium collets that are squeezed by the perch its self (the top damper is complete, the bottom is where I’m going to put the perch, and the collets can be seen at the bottom). I think this is going to work, but if anyone thinks otherwise, please say. This will lower it 1” more than stock lowering springs, ill find out what the camber is with this setup and correct any excessive camber with the stub axle mod.
i was thinking of having the damper in a pot of water, and doing it a little bit at a time?
All the south wales water supply has every given us is a stomach upset! I think just us spurring each other on, being on the motorsports course there is a lot of talk and not a lot of do, i like to change that, as does rob. Imaginations run riot and then spilling out into the garage!
I think the damper trick will work OK if you are very careful to do a little at a time and keep it cool between bursts of welding. Also make sure they are at full extension so as not to scorch the piston/seals!
Finally I recommend doing all the welding wearing nothing but a pair of shorts and some Jesus sandals.
1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE 1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT!
hahahah 5000 degree arc, and a pair of swimming shorts!
Handling is the imps forte, its not particuarly fast as stock, but on slightly shorter springs it really is jolly good at the twisties. The front wheels do change camber a lot, and the inside front wheel will lift clear of the ground when given monster beans. It loves going sideways aswell!
Ahh but was you waxoiling over rust or area with trapped rust. I would just keep an eye on it if you already don't. Check any spots and treat them straight away. Your making excellent progress good work mate.
Not quite as productive today as the last few days, I still got a few bits done.
I visited a local industrial estate after being told that there was a small machine shop there. I found the place and the chaps were very helpful, I’m going back tomorrow to show them the pulley and discuss what needs doing.
The engine was properly attached to the stand and ive started to give it a really good clean, I took the chance to pull the sump and have a look at the bearings, as expected on an engine with around 5000 miles on it they are super duper clean. Unfortunately I found some aluminium chips in the sump, I got worried and started to think of all the nasty things that could have happened. Upon further inspection they seem to be machining detritus, fortunately there is no damage from these bits.
The cam box was also removed and everything is clean and correct, changing the oil frequently does seem to make a big difference.
All of the lights were removed from the car, and the coil and rev limiter.
I also received another part in the post –
Its my new fuel pressure regulator! This was purchased from Ebay.com for £26 all in, postage and all! I love a good bargain!
Right well today I started with the front radiator conversion, this involves removing the box that the heater blower sites in, extending the orifice in the front, and creating a path for the air to escape. I went to the local hardware store and bought some laser cut 1mm grinding disks, if you have never used these, they really are fantastic. They will cut through steel like a hot knife through butter!
I proceeded to cut the box from the front panel
Stock front end –
Shape of hole in front panel –
Box removed –
Next is had to decide how to put the radiator, to make the most of the space available I am going to put the radiator in at a 45 degree angle. This makes the most of the air flow (according to Carroll Smiths book – tune to win).
So the air can get in and through the radiator but how will it escape? On the turbo imp the back of the spare wheel well was removed, but I think that this removed too much strength from the front end, so I decided to drill holes. A 50mm hole cutter was purchased (tool of the day!) I had to decide between a cheap one or this cobalt steel one –
Tool of the day, cobalt steel hole cutter -
The holes were marked out so that there was at least 10mm of steel between each, and then the cutter sheared through it with relative ease!
Then the rad was offered up to see how it fitted –
I still have to make up the surround to channel the air to and from the correct places, this will be make in either stainless or ally sheet for a nice clean finish. I also need to get card for templates, that’s what halted the work on it for today!
I also dismantled the front stub axles ready for modification and reception of the new disk kit. I have bought a new pair of callipers, so it should be all nice and shiny!
Time to hold you breath until tomorrows exciting events!