Ah you got me there its errr.... rolling lol been at uni a couple of years so not really done owt to it. Was only jesting I know you've practically had to build the car twice when you found out the state of the chassis, and even if it took 25 years it'd still be worth it cos its gonna look fooooooookin awesome.
Really interested to see it coming together as I'm just getting to the bodywork stage with mine, and its nice to see how someone else has successfully managed to build / modify fibreglass bits and bobs. Very very useful.
Post by blackpopracing on Oct 15, 2007 22:32:35 GMT
Thanks Cliff, Your Minor is pretty stunning too. Glass is pretty easy stuff to play with as long as you get professional gear, not the crap from Halfords. Would have updated tonight, but have been too busy in the garage, will add more tomorrow.
Do you have a recommended supplier for your 'glass stuff?
Also any hints or tips you want to share - for example, I'm worried that when I relocate the arches I'll end up with a stress line that will induce a crack later. Ho do I go about making sure this doesn't happen without adding 1/2" of glass to the back of the panel?
Any unseful info like this would be much appriciated
With glass work, start by drawing out what you want to remove, and marking some index points for reference after cutting out the arches. If you are moving forewards/backwards, then mark a centreline through the arch as it is, with a spirit level (vertical) then mark how far you want to move the arch over, you just need to match the lines then.
Grind the glass down on both bits of panel with a grinder & flap disc, (wear a mask!!!) start with the rear first, grind about half way through the panel thickness for about 1-1.5" on either piece (or as much as you can if its a wheel arch lip) you can clip the pieces together with steel strips & cleco pins, bent to get the parts lined up.
Then just lay up some glass over the join, start with narrow strips, each strip wider than the last to feather it back to the ground edge. 3-5 layers is sufficient. Use the ally ribbed roller available from CFS, this compresses the glass layers and removes air bubbles, makes it a lot stronger.
When this has set hard, (24-48 hours) you can remove the Cleco pins, & countersink either side of the holes that are left. Then grind out the front of the panel in the same way and glass strips in as before. Take care to try not to glass above the level of the wing, though this can be rubbed down later.
Once its set, grind off any high spots on both sides, add filler (Upol smooth 7 ~ NOT Big easy!!!) till it looks nice. Do NOT wet sand!! dry sand only. (this applies to ALL bodywork for anyone reading ~ wet sanding only puts rust back in the panel or moisture in the glass, which will cause paint problems later).
Paint asap with Epoxy primer, as this adheres well to glass, and is totally waterproof.
Post by blackpopracing on Oct 16, 2007 19:36:55 GMT
Quick update as I gotta go out.
Another layer of filler saw it at this stage,
and 9 layers saw it finally to my liking ;D
As weather was good, I got a quick coat of primer on the roof panel as well, (built at work )
Next job was trimming back the rear of the wing for a landing panel and also to clear the lower door hinges, I made a cast and carefully trimmed the wing off from it, leaving a small section bonded to the cast.
Passenger side did not fit so well, so wing had to be extended (Cliff you can see how its ground back here)
Drivers side basically finished, now needs tidying and the Dzus fastener fitted.
Post by blackpopracing on Oct 17, 2007 19:35:03 GMT
Matt, So far I have only used the stuff from my local motor factors, but its pretty good, called Indasa Rhynalox plus, its white and listed as dry-sand paper. (as against wet). When I do the body proper next month, I will be looking at the Klingspor paper, which is meant to be the best.