It's exactly the same block on the MK2 Vitesse. I think the early MK1 1600 is a different block but i could be wrong. The engine i'm building is actually a late MK2 2000 saloon engine as they have a better cyl head.
New oil filter fitted, along with an oil cooler take off sandwich plate. Also fitted a freshly rebuilt (tonight!) distributor. It's a dizzy off of a 2.5PI. I'm reckoning that the advance curve for this will be more appropriate for the spec of this engine rather than an ordinary Vitesse one. (If there's any difference at all. lol)
No I haven't yet, but I have a tamed tyre fitter on standby. He's done a fair few before. I can't see any big issues tbh.
the issue is youve banded it on the wrong bit- you wont be able to get the tyre over the rim bead as youve banded it on the larger diameter part. if you look at the original wheel, the two rim profiles arent the same (inner/outer)- you need the shallower front 'step' to get the tyre on as you sit the bead half into the rim well in the centre at an angle to get it on.
if you look where ive banded mine, its in the rim well, this is how youll see all other bandeds done, as it still allows you to get the tyre on and off-
compared to yours where youve banded the bit that the tyre sits on, the actual tyre seat-
if youre really lucky, you might be able to get enough flex in the tyre to pull it on over the back lip as the profiles arent too different on wheels that were originally so skinny, but they're inst much give in the beads for obvious reasons. as it stands theyres no way youll get a tyre on that in the conventional way.
I'm not trying to be clever, just pointing it out cos you might want to try to get a tyre on it before you go making and painting a full set then find they're useless as you cant get a tyre on!!
Post by oldschoolgeezer on Feb 10, 2011 12:34:18 GMT
You may be lucky with those rims but id take Dez' advice & try a tyre first....
I purposeley had mine banded on the outer bead like yours as i prefer the look of a smooth dish & think they give the illusion of a much deeper wheel. I was aware there may be difficulty fitting the tyres but my old rims had been done the same way (to 7-8") & id had a few sets of tyres on & off those without any trouble.
My current set have gone from 3.5" to 6" & 6.5" so i was a little worried when it came to fitting the tyres, though one tyre took a bit of extra lube but the other four went on just fine.
Great project, & it looked nice enough on the revolutions (?) in the first pic
Buying a BMW or a Bentley & looking cool is easy, but the credit doesn't go to you.Taking an unloved car that cost £500 & making it good enough to get photos in magazines or stand out alongside cars that cost one hundred times more is a skill reserved for us loonies!
Yh, i understand what you're saying about were the band is. This is the 6th or 7th set of wheels i've done, and i've banded them both ways. The band is slightly smaller than the bead seat diameter, so the tyre will go on ok. The main reason i cut them on the rim rather than the well, is to help with the seating process for stretching the tyres on, and i also prefer the way it looks !
I appreciate the concern fellas but i'm confident they'll be sound !
Engines looking good though, and slightly less pink!
What cam are you using? Isnt the GT6 dizzy supposed be the most sporting? Bit late now, but Toyota pistons wou;d have given you some extra cc's.
I've got a Kent cams TH7-6 race cam. Proper lairy ! lol I've heard of some japanese pistons (i thought it was mazda but probably wrong) being used for a massive overbore, but you need to re-machine the little end bushes and a custom headgasket and it's a bit thin between the walls for reliability.