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I have seen alot of disscussion regarding putting clear coat over primer on the Internet. I am looking for a cheap, darkish red colour for my rod project and I think red oxide will look good, but can I clear coat over it? I hear primers alone are not good becuase they don't have the protection which a top coat will give them, and clear coat will make it a little glossier, and also protect it from UV light. Am I right? I know very little about painting cars so this might be a dumb question.
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Rich G
Posted a lot
Keyboard Worrier
Posts: 1,059
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You can get you local paint factor to add matting agent to your chosen gloss colour so that you get a satin or matt finish. That way you get the exact colour you want.
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Or, you can use polyurethane satin paint - brush, roller or spray. Cheap and easy to use. Looks reasonable too (sold as military vehicle paint) available in the full range or RAL and BS colour codes (google it, I cant be bothered right now  ) |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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As above, look up synthetic enamel. Loads of places flog it and will mix to a colour, and matt or satin as you like.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Matt paint is generally quite porous, so moisture can get in and get to the metal easily which equals rust  so either paint it onto a gloss undercoat or clearcoat is the only way to prevent water ingress. I've been told by several people that matting agent in gloss paint don't give the effect you'd expect. Based on this advice I stayed away from it when I painted my car. You can clear coat on top of primer, a friend of mine who works at a body shop has a mk1 golf which he painted in grey primer then laquered over it (he put glitter in the laquer) but IMO it looks good. From personal experience I painted my Sierra matt nato green with rollers (which gave an alright finish), then later sprayed it with a compressor and gun (which looks much better!). I used acrylic based paint from Cobbaton Combat...... www.cobbatoncombat.co.uk/sales/vehicles.htm - at the bottom of the page, only military colours. If you don't fancy a military colour Kingstonian Paints www.kpaints.co.uk might be able to help. |
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2009 10:14:58 GMT by Robinxr4i
Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Matt's not necessarily porous, it just has a different surface. Water will sit on more than gloss.
Re matting agents, you have to add the right amount if DIY-ing, and test it out esp is you want satin. You can get synth ready matt or satin to order though.
The application has an effect - it can go more gloss than you expect. Thin coats are best, so spraying is good but then still thin coats rather than heavy wet ones.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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And I can red oxide from a spray gun?
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^^ yup, even the ones that say "brush on" on the tin did you read my thread? lol....  |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Really? Even without any thinning?
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lol, no.. I thinned it but the "brush on" bit on the tin is more to do with the post 2007 paint and volitile content regs than it does the composition of the paint. You can still buy thinners over the counter too. For "cleaning brushes"  |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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The paint I used was "fast air dry" stuff and was mega thick, so the ratio of thinners to paint was quite high! Think it was over 50/50.
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Sierra - here we go again! He has an illness, it's not his fault.
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Same here, thinned at least 50%. Used KP04 thinners for synth enamel, celly'd probs be OK but it's a bit fiercer. You can get 'nice' celly and gunwash celly, price difference isn't much at all. But hey it's only primer ...  |
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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I have used clear over primer before. Worked well for me. It was only done to prevent the repairs from rusting through before the car was painted properly as primer is porous. It gave an interesting effect I quite liked.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Is there such thing as a satinising agent? Can I add that to red oxide, because I don't want a matt finish.
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nugget
Part of things
Posts: 840
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You know this may sound mad, but could you not just get red paint?
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Can't make a matt up to glossier. Can make a gloss down to satin or matt, with flatting agent.
Either do the satin clearcoat thing over primer, or get satin'd topcoat mixed to the colour you want.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,829
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Jul 11, 2009 12:15:24 GMT
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Proper red oxide comes in matt or shiny, ( shiny = not high gloss!! ) Yes it can be sprayed, just add thinners to taste  matt or shiny is water proof as long as the coverage is good.. It will take a while to harden though Get it from a steel building company as they use the good stuff as opposed to halfords etc who I reckon use water with a red tint!! |
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purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,829
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Jul 11, 2009 12:17:15 GMT
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ohh and...
most paints can be matted down, you can getting a product called Matting Agent, the more you add the matter the paint, better getting the supplier to do it for you as they know how much to put in, some high gloss paints need loads...
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Aug 18, 2009 17:40:19 GMT
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So if I spray red oxide with a matting agent (and thinner), then the red oxide primer won't be pourous?
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so either paint it onto a gloss undercoat or clearcoat is the only way to prevent water ingress.
