djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Have you thought about getting the shell stripped in a dipping tank by someone like Prostrip etc? I ask as like you I own a rust-prone 70's coupe and in hindsight I should have had that done to be 100% sure I wouldn't be welding it again in the next few years!
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Have you thought about getting the shell stripped in a dipping tank by someone like Prostrip etc? I ask as like you I own a rust-prone 70's coupe and in hindsight I should have had that done to be 100% sure I wouldn't be welding it again in the next few years! In an ideal world yes, however I can't afford it. The cost of transportation there and back and the cost of dipping is more than I can afford to spend I'm afraid. I do have a local friendly sand blaster that I use for my wheels. I might investigate the possibility of getting the chassis of the next car I do blasted and etch primed.
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shaun60
Kinda New
Ford escort 1.8 diesel pump where does the vacuum pipe go to that comes from the front of the pump
Posts: 1
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hi i have a fiat130 that is on the road and have gone though what you are doing but never got the heater box out are thay easy to gat out can you let me no thankyou
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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If the dash is out dead easy Taking the dash out isn't too bad. Would love to see some photos of your 130. My resto stalled but I'm planning to get back into it soon
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My resto stalled but I'm planning to get back into it soon Hoorah !!!
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Apr 28, 2012 20:06:01 GMT
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Finally an update Firstly my reactive welding helmet works Today I stripped the area of the o/s/r suspension turret: I'm planning to use the repair sections I cut from the scrap LHD shell I bought and cut up as they are in excellent condition: Not decided how much I should use. Should I cut patches from the repair section or replace the whole turret so there is not a join? Any advice welcome
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Apr 29, 2012 12:04:56 GMT
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For me that would depend on how severe the rust was and how widespread it was If it was confined to just the bottom, then I would be tempted to just cut and weld in a section, and leave as much of the original in place.
If on the other hand it is widespread, then rather than making several small repairs it would indeed makes sense to replace the complete section
Hope that helps
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Apr 29, 2012 13:29:08 GMT
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The top looks (although I haven't stripped it all back yet) excellent. It's just really the lower section that seems to be corroded. It would be much less work and easier to ensure correct alignment if I just replace the lower section.
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Well finally decided to bite the bullet and order a new toy It's one of these: Downside is they're built to order and therefore I'm in a slow moving queue but anyway it's ordered and paid for This means there will be a SIP Topmig 170 Turbo popping up in the for sale section one day soon
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Well finally decided to bite the bullet and order a new toy It's one of these: Downside is they're built to order and therefore I'm in a slow moving queue but anyway it's ordered and paid for This means there will be a SIP Topmig 170 Turbo popping up in the for sale section one day soon just like the one in my garage!
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Last Edit: May 3, 2012 7:09:29 GMT by ianboyd
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Jun 22, 2012 20:19:57 GMT
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Well my new toy finally arrived today Update and pictures over the weekend.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jun 22, 2012 20:40:01 GMT
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Well my new toy finally arrived today Update and pictures over the weekend. Ha nice to see the waiting ain't getting shorter Amazing really Looking forward to the pics and how you get on with the portamig
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Jun 22, 2012 21:25:50 GMT
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1 day short of 7 weeks since I ordered.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jun 22, 2012 22:33:28 GMT
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1 day short of 7 weeks since I ordered. Yep - piddle me off too but it was so worth it Best tool I have ever bought
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Jun 23, 2012 18:10:48 GMT
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Well the Portamig works First welds: Going to take a bit of time to get to grips with it as I need to practise and find out what setting is needed for various thicknesses, techniques etc. It welds beautifully though. My old SIP Topmig 170 turbo is now in the parts for sale section
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Well the Portamig works First welds: It welds beautifully though. My old SIP Topmig 170 turbo is now in the parts for sale section I kept my SIP/cosmo just because it's slightly more portable than the Portamig..... I've not had to use it mind in 2 years!!!
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mirafioriman
Posted a lot
My next project.......
Posts: 1,361
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Jun 24, 2012 12:13:58 GMT
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My SIP is the same kind of size and weight as the Portamig so not much difference in portability.
I have too much stuff already so I need to clear some space!
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Jun 24, 2012 20:04:35 GMT
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I love my Portamig too, but like BC, I've kept my Clarke for jobs that need a more portable welder
First test welds look good, now lets see some work on that Fiat
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jun 24, 2012 21:41:54 GMT
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I love my Portamig too, but like BC, I've kept my Clarke for jobs that need a more portable welder I've also spent too much time and effort making the bloody SIP/Cosmo actually glue metal in a way that is almost half decent First test welds look good, now lets see some work on that Fiat Agreed - you don't need much time to get used to a portamig cos it's got a huge operating window
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Jun 26, 2012 20:46:42 GMT
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Any chance of putting the earlier pics back up?
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