Post by octagonalpaul on Dec 21, 2009 12:54:04 GMT
I forgot that the nova I've had parked up in my garage for the last few months had just water in the rad, which has now frozen whats the best/safest way to sort it out? can't move it to a warm place either!
I had this on my 1st mini many years back. I stuck 2 hair driers under th ebonnet and left them running for about 20 mins. That did the trick. Then wonce the top and bottom hoses squishable, fired it up to warm it through a bit, left it cool enough to drain some water out and chucked in some anti freeze.
Mine froze over the otherday, lookily it blew 1 of the heater pipes off instead of a core plug or cracked the block. But I used a heat gun to melt the ice in the water pump, filled the expansion bottle with boiling water and started it up and let the heat off the engine melt the rest.
Had this problem on the old man's Mondeo I left it until it thawed out naturally, drained some coolant out of the header & added anti freeze. I wouldn't start the car to try & melt it & I certainly wouldn't add boiling water into the equation.
Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat
Current: 2002 Ford KA 1985 Kawasaki GPZ Gigeresque Rat (AKA The GPShed)
Your biggest problem will be the expansion of the water as it froze. Later rads like yours are ali cores with plastic tanks crimped on the end and the water may have pushed this back causing a leak when thawed . You may get away with just crimping them back GENTLY one at a time if it leaks but don't set the grips too tight as the plastic becomes brittle with age.
If the waterpump is run by the fan belt remove the fan belt and just run the engine, leaks may or may not happen, if (as in your case I beleive ?) the waterpump is driven by the cambelt you cant run the engine so a camping stove under the block might do it or constant trips with a kettle to unfreeze the rad then the block but this will take ages and the likelyhood is the water will refreeze anyway without some form of other heat, either way will be quicker than filling the header with antifreeze and waiting for it to melt and mix with the frozen water already in there. Ive unfrove many an old ford with the fan belt off and a few kettles of hot water to get the rad unfroze.
running the heater on hot or not makkes no differance unless there is a tap that physicly shuts the water off to the heater rad the inside controls do curse word all like on a sierra except shut a flap in the car so hot water is gonna get there no matter what you do
Personally, I really wouldn't leave it until spring - it will freeze and thaw several times between now and then, the repeated expansion/contraction of the water freezing and thawing is far more likely to do damage (in my opinion) than thawing it out once and stopping it happening again - water repeatedly freezing/thawing has enough force to crack rocks, so it has plenty enough to play havoc with an engine. Just my thoughts, not the gospel!
Had this happen with a mk2 cavalier CDi years ago when I forgot to buy anti-freeze when I did some sort of job on the engine a week beforehand - I thawed it out by putting a small fan heater under the engine for an hour, and it was fine.
In the absence of a power source, defrosting is likely to be a little bit more of a challenge - you've either got to heat the garage up then put the car back in it or heat the engine up - If it was me, I'd probably take the gas BBQ up there and use it as an ad-hoc gas heater to warm up the garage!
Oh the joys of an aircooled engine. I would leave it till it thaws naturally then put antifreeze the shock of rapid heating can and will cause stress fractures as will freeze thaw over time. Get some antifreeze in it and pray you haven't cracked the block
Remove the rad and hoses and take them inside? The only danger then is starting the engine with the water pump iced up - particuary if it's cambelt driven. Maybe kettles of hot water could solve his one?
I had this problem on my Stanza last winter. I just unplugged the radiator drainage plug and kept flushing the cooling system with lukewarm water until the ice was all gone, it took about 5 watering cans. Then I refilled it with a fresh coolant/water mix and fired it up, drove it around a bit, let it idle up to the fan kicking in whilst I watched for leaks, it was fine. No problems since.
This is all what I thought was the best decision off the top of my head so there might be some better way, the main thing is I don't think putting boiling hot water straight into ice is the best idea - ice tends to react badly to being "shocked". But if you take it steady and use tepid water I don't think it should cause too much grief, worked for me anyway.