Nearly time to dust off the spray gun

[slater]

Well progress on the Mini has been...... well.... 'acceptible' Been doing all the small bits which tend to make it seme like your not moving forward very quickly with the project!

Got me seats in today, had to buy some sparco revs and even tho they are one of the narrowest race seats you can get they are still a bloody tight fit! Made my own subframes as £60 each is daylight robbery! That said the seats don't exactly come cheap

anyway some pics




the rest of the time ive been fitting the rad and doing engine bay stuff.


note engine stedy!



Fuel tank is on its way, 31L capacity but it looks tiny!


Airbox

Ive now finished all the welding and the fabrication on the bodyshell so I'm going to move it back into my garage at home and do the bodywork now. Ive dicided on a paint scheme but you will have to wait untill show season to find out what it is cous i aint telling!! Its a bit of a gamble as I'm not sure if it will look cool or just tacky but it has been mentioned on here before and no ones latched onto it so I'm sure you lot will see the funny side! ;D

[CR500Dom]

Nice one ;D

Looking very good

[skoda_norman]

doesn't that air box mean there is less air getting to the engine than if it was ontop of the engine or something?

[CR500Dom]

skodanorman said:

doesn't that air box mean there is less air getting to the engine than if it was ontop of the engine or something?

Engage brain before typing ;D

Helps ........ especially when asking a question

[arthurbrown]

Super!
Well looking forward to seeing this one done.

If only my mates mini proj was going so well - it's still at the 'cat pi$$ tarpaulin' stage

[Mr K]

skodanorman said:

doesn't that air box mean there is less air getting to the engine than if it was ontop of the engine or something?

I beleive its not an actual airbox as in a box with an airfilter in or what not, its a bulkhead box, so there is more room for the carb ect as it gets pretty close, although, i thought you could get away with a standard bulkhead if you where running an SU and you only needed them for webers?
i think that answers your question lol...

mini looks sweet, what spec is the engine? and what are those tyres?

[slater]

yeh bulkhead box is a more accurate description i guess! I reckon you could get away without one but in my case the combination of the engine being tilted back a bit to make room for the front mounted rad, the long manifold and a carb linkage requiring a bigger spacer then usal has pushed the carb very close to the bulkhead and i don't want it to rub!

the engines a 1098, fast road cam and head but lightweight race bottom end.

The tyres are 165/70 dunlop sports, proper vintage I'm on the lookout for some wide steels (10x7 minimum) and drag slicks if anyone knows of any forsale

[bodieanddoyle]

slater said:

the engines a 1098, fast road cam and head but lightweight race bottom end.

is it an a-series or a-plus? I needs to know what you used for pistons, can't find anything other than stock ones for my moggy. the min's looking good BTW

[slater]

Its an a-series, i used powermax but they were for 998cc so i had to machine a few mm off the CROWN to shorten them. Not the best way tho relly as it reduces the area above the top ring which is quite important. If i remember rightly you should be able to fit stronger A+ pistons to any engine if you convert the rods to take interferance fit pins. I have a 1098cc A+ engine half built which i was planning to do something simalr with.

[bodieanddoyle]

didn't know there was a 1098 a+. 998 a+pistons are supposed to be good for 7.5k, but the pin height is different to a 1098 "a" and I don't know whether the CROWN could safely be machined off. might have to hunt for 1098 a+ rods and pistons. I'm not going wild spec, but, stock moggy pistons are split skirted and aren't safe over 5350 rpm. you might have given me the answer to my prayers.
did you weld the tank yourself? I'm told you're a man of many talents

[slater]

1.1L metros is where you will find them, athough i think the one i have had the older type of a series piston in it still. If you havent got it allredy get vizards a-series tuning book and it will explain it all in there.

i did the welding, I'm not that great at it tho! still learning

[Mr K]

I am despiratly in need of deep dish steels too. have you consided (iRoccos idea):
Cut a steel rim on a lathe around where the bead starts... throw away the bead, then cut another around where the 'dish stops' so you end up with a rim with no bead, and another metal ring, with a flat section then another bead? i can then get them tig welded together by a guy for not to much on both sides?
i hope that makes scence? if you want a pop give us a shout as i have about 20 steel rims and you are welcome to 4 or 8 etc if you pay the postage.
I am after two 10x6 or 7 steels... but standard looking to match the 10 x 3.5s on the front.


you could also try banding, but i don't know where you could get some tube big enough? wheel it up yourself?

[bodieanddoyle]

thanks for the info, slater. I have already got vizards "bible", thats where I got the pin heaight info from. presumably the 1.1 metro pistons are not split skirt? have to ask, you're the only person to give me advice on a 1098, and not tell me to fit a 1275

[skoda_norman]

it is a combination of the engine tilt and carb that means it would hit the standard bulk head - cool.

you refered to it as an 'airobx' in your first post so i assumed that is what they were called.

[slater]

nickyboi said:

I am despiratly in need of deep dish steels too. have you consided (iRoccos idea):
Cut a steel rim on a lathe around where the bead starts... throw away the bead, then cut another around where the 'dish stops' so you end up with a rim with no bead, and another metal ring, with a flat section then another bead? i can then get them tig welded together by a guy for not to much on both sides?
i hope that makes scence? if you want a pop give us a shout as i have about 20 steel rims and you are welcome to 4 or 8 etc if you pay the postage.
I am after two 10x6 or 7 steels... but standard looking to match the 10 x 3.5s on the front.


you could also try banding, but i don't know where you could get some tube big enough? wheel it up yourself?

I think i get what your saying, get 2 wheels, remove the centers, cut the bead/rim off each, weld the 2 bits together. then get your standard looking centers and weld them in. dosent sound too hard to me, I reckon with 2 10x6 wellers you could make a rim atleast 8" wide ;D! Il try it one day

B&D: Its bloody complicated! If you want to find out what you can get you should go speak to my dad at Radco, he can look in the cataloges and compare the part numbers etc. You may well find half the pistons in vizards book arnt avalible anymore!

[Keefy]

thats looking superb slater!

[Mr K]

slater said:

nickyboi said:

I am despiratly in need of deep dish steels too. have you consided (iRoccos idea):
Cut a steel rim on a lathe around where the bead starts... throw away the bead, then cut another around where the 'dish stops' so you end up with a rim with no bead, and another metal ring, with a flat section then another bead? i can then get them tig welded together by a guy for not to much on both sides?
i hope that makes scence? if you want a pop give us a shout as i have about 20 steel rims and you are welcome to 4 or 8 etc if you pay the postage.
I am after two 10x6 or 7 steels... but standard looking to match the 10 x 3.5s on the front.


you could also try banding, but i don't know where you could get some tube big enough? wheel it up yourself?

I think i get what your saying, get 2 wheels, remove the centers, cut the bead/rim off each, weld the 2 bits together. then get your standard looking centers and weld them in. dosent sound too hard to me, I reckon with 2 10x6 wellers you could make a rim atleast 8" wide ;D! Il try it one day

B&D: Its bloody complicated! If you want to find out what you can get you should go speak to my dad at Radco, he can look in the cataloges and compare the part numbers etc. You may well find half the pistons in vizards book arnt avalible anymore!

bassically cut the bead off, then weld on another bead + abit more from anoter rim.... that way you don't even need to remove the centres!!!
Do you think you could change the centres in some wheels for me? the would obviously be payment envolved if i supply two 10x6 wellers without centres, and two standard 10" centres?

[racer86]

I'm so excited about this mini, i love how you havent sold out with a big motor. Looking forward to the mystery paint job too!

[Davenger]

Sounds great
Shame my mates such a lazy ass stoner, otherwise we'd have been round to drop his engine block off and check out the beast

[thevert]

Nice one! better at welding then me! looking fekin schweet !!