dw1603
Part of things
Posts: 591
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Jun 12, 2012 22:47:48 GMT
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Once I'd bolted one front wing on and made the car look more like a car I realised that maybe it was foolish to give up, it started to remind me of why I was building what I'm building. Lots of other awesome stuff...;D ;D ;D This update makes me very happy. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Me too. ;D ;D ;D
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Jun 12, 2012 23:45:01 GMT
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Once I'd bolted one front wing on and made the car look more like a car I realised that maybe it was foolish to give up, it started to remind me of why I was building what I'm building. Sounds a bit daft really, but it really is less disheartening to see the Polo looking more car shaped and less abandoned. Awsome. ;D From the video it sounds a) very rich (but we knew that) and b) as though the ignition timing is incorrect and/or all over the place. If the ignition timing isn't right, the engine will never run properly - too much advance will make the engine seem to run rich, and will boost low-end torque at the expense of higher-end power. Too little advance will reduce the available power, and if it's a long way retarded (no, not like that. It's just the opposite of advance.) the engine will have no power and will run exceedingly hot. The ignition timing is controlled by the distributor's angular position on the cylinder head, and is also dependant on the points gap - check that they haven't closed right up. If they have the spark will be a) retarded and b) weak. As the dizzy on this engine is run from the camshaft, altering the camshaft timing will also alter the ignition timing, changing the way it runs. Cam timing does have an effect on the engine's running, but it's significantly more subtle than the ignition timing. As I've mentioned, if you want me to have a look at it I'd be more than happy to.
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Jun 12, 2012 23:59:14 GMT
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jg: The kettle can always be put on at short notice We did try and set the ignition timing but it was worse if moved from the usual spot so I'm guessing that's about right. We didn't check the points, not something we thought to do, so I'll check that tomorrow. One thing we have eliminated since resetting the cam timing (what I've been referring to as static timing) is the habit of the engine to just drop revs steadily and cut out, so I'm hoping that means we've improved that bit.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:10:09 GMT
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Fettling again. I don't think I know what I'm doing, if I'm honest, so we'll see what you make of what I've done today. Points: Gap of .38mm, opening and closing as normal. Didn't check for spark, only just realised that, but I suspect they're okay. Plugs: Didn't check these either (again, only just realised while writing this) so if I should do let me know. When the engine was put back together they were healthy. Carb: Fiddled with the screws for idle and mixture and got it running leaner, but not as lean as I'd like. Air box: Refitted. This did actually make rather a large improvement and reminded me that when he went for his first MoT in my care one of the running issues was an air pipe on the underside had come off. Ignition Timing: Fiddled with it and ended up with it back where it was as it's making no significant difference to the way the engine runs. Choke: I can get the car to idle without the choke light on now, this is a good thing. Conclusion: I don't know what to do now! Here's a clicky video. As you can hear, it's hunting a lot and I can't seem to improve on that at all. The temperature gauge gets up to 3/4 before the fan kicks in which is normal, the expansion tank pressurises properly and nothing is leaking out. I can't hear any air leaks, in fact the only thing that makes any noise similar to an air leak is the air box itself, but that always has. Theories: Carb - set up wrong now it's bedded in after being cleaned, especially now that we've fiddled with it. I don't have the relevant CO meters and the like to test it properly to know whether or not it's set up correctly. Timing belt - could it be stretched from being on and off a few times? The belt is only about 3,000 miles old, but I wonder if maybe it's become misshapen after running the car when the head bolts needed tightening (which I didn't know at the time) and the recent on-off of it while trying to resolve the engine issues. Your advice, as always, is very welcome. I'm at a point now that I don't think I personally can do anything else on this engine without a guiding hand because I simply don't understand why it's doing what it's doing.
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Hmm. Difficult to tell from the video, but still sounds a bit rich - and still sounds as though the ign timing is a bit retarded. Have you a timing light to check the timing?
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Jun 14, 2012 11:45:55 GMT
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On my old 1.3 which had the same dizzy fitted, the vac can had gone and yours doesn't look too good.
Take the vac line off at the carb and try to suck or blow through it - if you can pull air through it then its punctured. If you can't it's working fine - you should be able to remove the rotor arm and plastic cover and see the gubbins move sligthly inside if you suck hard enough
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cianha
Part of things
aka VDubbin
Posts: 923
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Jun 14, 2012 13:14:18 GMT
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I'm very glad to read there's more momentum with Wilhelm again! That NEED list isn't quite so long, you'll be done long before November!
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Jun 14, 2012 19:50:08 GMT
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Here's another attempt. I'm still frustrated by the engine, but feeling like maybe I'm getting somewhere as we eliminate more suspect areas together. First thing I did was start the car in one of those 'just in case' moments and to my surprise it ran without the lurchiness, if still quite rich (I'll sort this out eventually) and has a far too fast idle. Here's a clicky video of that action. I was quite puzzled by this, but as the engine got warmer, the running got much rougher until after a few minutes the engine did cut out on its own. Here's another clicky video. Of the things suggested to investigate I found the following: Vaccum unit on distributor: Seems fine. Blew down and sucked on both pipes and met with resistance as expected. It looks tatty, but it's likely that a quick refurb of the exterior is all that's needed here. Under carb seal - Still looks brand new. I didn't remove the carburettor to investigate further because it's only 3k miles old and I think I found the culprit for the air leak. Carb to air box pipe - This pipe is hidden rather well, but is integral to the smooth running as I found with some experimentation. It looked okay from above and indeed, it didn't look in particularly poor condition. Then I removed it and folded it between finger and thumb and it revealed its nasty little secret. This tiny little pipe is probably causing the air leak and it's one of the few pipes that hasn't been replaced. So, current plan is to leave the carb adjustment for now, I've clearly cocked that up, and instead get a replacement pipe for the above and some black rubber fuel pipe to replace the clear stuff. The clear fuel pipe is fine at the moment, but after the incident with the same stuff going porous and trying to set fire to the Princess, I don't fancy chancing it on the Polo. Here's hoping I'm not about to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by expecting that little hose to fix this issue. Those videos, short though they are, took a small eternity to upload but I'm hoping they make diagnosis easier.
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mr
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,528
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Jun 14, 2012 20:45:37 GMT
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My car did the same,air was getting draw in through a weak under carb gasket.run the car and spray .....I used wd40 ,a t the carb base.if there's a breach the oil is drawn.in.and fixes it temporarily.if that works then.sort your gaskets.if it runs for.a bit.then starves take the filter(if your cars got one) off your sender unit in your tank.my car also.did this so I fitted an.inline one just before the pump.within seconds it was full of rust particles. Just two ideas .
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Got the car from 105 bhp at the crank to 152 at the wheels.nitrous going on next.....if it ain't broke,keep bolting on go faster parts until it is........ www.fordgranadaclubuk.freefo.de
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Jun 14, 2012 22:42:55 GMT
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That pipe looks serviceable, you sure it's leaking?
And are you 100% sure on the carb gasket? They are notorious for leaking
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Jun 14, 2012 23:09:59 GMT
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mr: I have an inline filter, the last one was full of rust and paint flecks after I'd been using the car for a bit so we fitted a new one which is currently nice and clean inside. reg: I'm 98% sure on the carb gasket, it was replaced with a brand new item only 3,000 miles ago and it still looks like new, removing everything to inspect it is a bit more involved than that little suspect pipe so my thought is to replace the pipe since it's an easier job and see what happens, some of the other pipes we replaced weren't as bad as that one and they leaked so I'm guessing it's gone just like they had. Of course, I'm probably wrong, but if I do the cheap easy job first I can move on to the more expensive (if I have to get yet another under-carb seal), more difficult job if it doesn't solve the problem.
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Jun 24, 2012 21:58:33 GMT
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Something awesome happened today. Yesterday, nothing awesome happened because we were enjoying a typical British Summer's day. But today, the weather was bright if windy and my brother had a spare bit of time so we had another go at sorting out this engine. First thing was to replace the perished pipe with this new one, which while nice and tight on the air box end, is a teensy bit loose on the carb end so I had to add a jubilee clip. That new pipe did in fact improve things a bit so while it didn't fix the problem it at least helped. Next thing to do was to have a look through some photographs of what the carb should look like and for any signs of obvious wear or damage as all the other air leak locations had been eliminated, which is when my brother spotted that there was a bit missing on the black screw in this picture. That black screw controls the position of the throttle at idle and the problem I've been having is getting the car to idle. We made up a new adjuster and the car would idle properly and run, and not stall! Success! Only one thing for it, had to take it for a test drive down the lane to see how well he'd run. WE nearly didn't because there's so little petrol in the tank it doesn't even register on the gauge but the lane isn't that long... so off my brother went. After a while of waiting like a worried parent, I heard my little monster coming back up the lane and it served to convince me more than ever that I'm going the right route with the front end and the car as a whole. I spend that much time inside the car looking out I never see him as other people do, so it was pretty awesome to see him in motion. Just enough fumes to get parked up safe on the drive again and now I feel much more confident about getting him through an MoT once I've dealt with the other minor issues that are outstanding. Some fine tuning is needed, but he's not far off where he was before he came off the road and, in my brother's words, 'it goes like stink', which of course I know.
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Jun 28, 2012 23:51:52 GMT
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Wow what a Read !! just one Question did you ever (10+ years ago) right a letter to custom car or street machine (possibly one of the other uk hotrod mags) detailing your plans for the polo and asking them not to pooh-pooh you letter because it wasn't proper Kustom Kar Tin you were proposing to work with.....If so I'm sure they would love to see how far you have come with it...if it wasn't you there is a VERY like minded individual out there somewhere.
Keep up the good work Kindest regards Martin
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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great news glad to hear that your getting on top of the issues and that your mojo is back for him
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Jun 29, 2012 10:35:36 GMT
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I heard my little monster coming back up the lane and it served to convince me more than ever that I'm going the right route with the front end and the car as a whole. I spend that much time inside the car looking out I never see him as other people do, so it was pretty awesome to see him in motion. ^ THIS ^ We all love driving our cars, or looking at them when they are parked up but never get to see them in motion because we're always behind the wheel. Seeing your own car driving about it quite an odd feeling and quite an exciting one because, as you say, you get to see it as others do. I've always been quite shocked at how different any of my cars look when they are moving, always. They look even better and suddenly you get a realisation that it's a cool car....cooler than you normally give yourself credit for. I'm so glad you've got the running issue sorted, things like that can really take their toll on your mojo, especially when you keep looking but can't find anything. So it's MOT prep time then back on with the full mojo boost? Nice work Amigo, this recent update makes me very happy. ;D
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,434
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Jun 29, 2012 11:42:52 GMT
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So true Bruce! One of the first things i do when i buy a new car/do some modifications to it, is to swap drives between me and my mate, so i can see and hear it on the move! and great news about the engine running better!
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@renaultallthefives: That letter was written by me, it's funny how people keep asking me about it these days. I lost the copy I had of Custom Car magazine the letter was published in, but maybe when the Polo is back in one piece and on the road I should drop them a line again and see what they think. @everyone else: thank you
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I used to have a coupe "boulevard", weber carb, GK inlet manifold from germany, ashley exhaust manifold, breaklerless dizzy from a saab 900. good times and one of my biggest regrets for selling it.
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2012 14:32:52 GMT by darrenh
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Well, I can't drive either of my cars at the moment on doctor's orders so what am I to do? I could just mope about it, or I could get stuck in and not worry about what the outcome is going to be in the hope that next month I can get behind the wheel again. The boyfriend was here for a few days and he took the rocker cover and belt covers away to be sandblasted and tidied up for me, now that I know that the engine is probably good. He had his little sandblasting kit set up from a few jobs he was doing himself so it was handy that he could take the smaller items away with him. When they come back, I'll get some snaps of them. Today, amazingly, the sun came out for a bit so I went to have a look at the cars to see what I could do. I could have got on with paintwork, but I was neither in the mood nor trusted the weather to behave for long enough, so instead I turned my attention to the Polo's engine bay. Much of the Polo's engine has never been cleaned and I've never really got stuck into engine detailing. Lately though, I've been of a mind to change that. So today I took off the air box and dismantled it, cleaning it first with warm water, then with some multi-purpose Cillit Bang and finally giving it a wipe over with some Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber cleaner. While I was at it, I cleaned up the scuttle behind the air box and cleaned and fitted the fragile cover and seal that I liberated from a Polo earlier this year. The engine bay looks a lot better than I expected for that and eventually I'll get around all the nooks and crannies to smarten it up. I gave the brake fluid reservoir a good scrub too and once this is all clean I'll look at repainting what I can get to with some fresh black. Looking for other quick jobs I double checked I had the spare windscreen seal that's better than my fitted one, then I got a Stanley knife to slice off the old seal so that I wouldn't break my windscreen and thus save money. This is the best way to remove these sorts of seals if you can, there's absolutely no risk to the glass providing you're not a numpty with the knife of course. Pull the seal tight in one hand and you shouldn't need much effort with the knife to cut it free. Then it was just a case of gently pushing the windscreen out, breaking the weak seal it still has with the remaining rubber before setting it aside. The reasons for me popping the screen out is to find a water leak and to be able to make up my new headlining. I'll have to pop out the side windows as well for the new headlining, but that can wait for the moment. At this point there would have been pictures of the rust bubbles I found on the scuttle, but my camera decided that the lens wouldn't work anymore. This problem surfaced at the recent Waddington show but went away again, I expect my camera is ready to be replaced now so I'll be keeping an eye out for something suitable. Under the old seal there were 3 main areas of rust, which I attacked with a wire brush before Kurusting them all. I will strip the paint back to bare metal and clean them up again to make extra sure I've got it all before repainting. Happily, there were no holes evident. The water was getting in on the passenger side where there's a drain hole, which was partially blocked, backing up and then leaking into the car through the windscreen seal. Once I've got all this treated and freshly painted it shouldn't leak anymore.
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