^ It's been a few places - including a spell in North Wales before I brought it back to it's hometown in the North East
In the past month it's managed a round trip ( North East - Midlands - RRG16 - Wales - Lakes - North East) and then a run up to the Scottish Borders, so about 1,000 miles and the only hiccup was a sticking brake pedal (fixed in about 30 mins on the RRG campsite by removing the pedal box and cleaning/lubing the shaft - brakes are now fab!) It's official, driving this on twisty B-roads is guaranteed to make the day better
It passed an MOT last week, tester was complimentary about the brakes which is always a good sign The only "fun" was trying to fix a couple of blown bulbs the day before the test. You know it's "one of those days" when you have loads of odd spare bulbs but need a matching pair, then buy the last pair from the local motor factors and drop 1 bulb when you get it home and smash it - and break a terminal off the bulbholder just to make sure
Not a lot happening recently, just putting petrol in it and driving
A quick pic of a "sometime - maybe never" job that got done a couple of weeks ago (new exhaust manifold studs as the threads had worn off the originals)
A recent trip to Wales (a 600+ mile round trip, loaded with tools & tat) went smoothly, apart from roadworks & closed roads The trip home was "fun" as the clutch release bearing started making unhappy sounds, a new bearing (carbon donut style) is on order and should be here tomorrow. (courtesy of Speedy Spares)
footnote. converting to a roller thrust bearing is getting tempting as the carbon bearings are wearing very quickly (possibly due to a sticky clutch pedal -fixed onsite at RRG16) nothing to do with me but ... info below is copied from www.rootes1725cc.info/board305/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1366 Helix Autosport, Unit 1G Vantage Business Park Bloxham Road, Banbury, Oxon, OX169UX +44(0)1295 701076 firstname.lastname@example.org www.helix-autosport.com/home-page/ "Specialising in CONVERTING CLUTCH CARBON THRUST BEARING to ROLLING THRUST BEARING (For Mk1, Mk2 + any others). I had mine done for £40+VAT+delivery. They also make racing clutches and flywheels. Send in your original, and they'll convert it. It was without doubt the best upgrade I did to my MK2 last year. Quicker, smoother, no rev drop on depression and longer lasting. It is the best quality you can buy in the world. It has none of the problems you may have heard about some 'foreign made' roller bearings."
Quick updates The wee beastie is still running ok and got a set of proper winter tyres fitted last week, just in case we get some snow to go an play in I'm looking for a way to connect up an electic radiator fan (I've got the fan sorted but I need to find a free/cheap way to turn it on when the engine gets hot), more info ... retrorides.proboards.com/thread/194994/warning-light-retro-temperature-gauge - suggestions welcome! Unrelated but looking interesting, I've just noticed you can now buy cheap "push on/push off" modules so you can fit posh modern switches into your classic Search for "touch bistable switch Electronic self-locking switch" ( or 161422952639 from worldwindow2010 ) on any random auction website
Coming soon : a sale ad for a set of 13" mint slotmags, a set of 13" studded winter tyres, and a freebie low-profile 14" tyre
We now have what looks like a working thermostat for the radiator fan
Full details in the link above, but basically I've gone with a (super cheap @ £3 ) Klixon stat suggested by Darkspeed . Listed as an 85 degree stat, a quick test (using a frying pan and an infrared themometer ) shows it turns on at about 85 and stays on till the temperature drops to about 60. It's currently clamped on the rad opposite the inlet hose so it should get an accurate reading.
Wiring is super-simple, a feed from the ignition to the stat - which triggers a relay when it gets up to temperature. The relay has a direct (fused) supply from the battery for the fan.
It's only had a short trip into town so far but the temperature is looking good (warm, where before the fan was triggering far too soon) . Result!
After a few days driving locally (with temps around freezing), I'm happy to confirm the new fan-stat is working and the fan is doing what it does best
Other things I now know... The thermostat is working but it's opening too soon so the motor isn't warning up as much as it should. New "hotter" stat added to the wishlist. The gasket between the thermostat housing and the head is weeping when the engine gets hot (Hunters don't have a thermostat in the head - it lives in a seperate casting that bolts to the front of the head) For the rate I'm loosing water, the weeping gasket isn't the main problem (I'm thinking it might be the water pump as there's a fair bit of play on the shaft)
1 problem fixed and a handful of new problems found. Today has not been progress
After a day just driving around last week (and having to fill the radiator every time I parked up!), I decided today was a good time to give the cooling system a bit of attention. The obvious first stop was to replace the water pump, no evidence that it was the main problem but it had so much play on the shaft it couldn't have been helping things. It also seemed a good time to spray the pump pulley, with hindsight all it does is make the rest of the motor look shabby. Hmmm
Tip for anyone else thinking of swapping a Hunter waterpump - get a spare pump housing (from a scrap motor, another Hunter owner, etc). The pump is held onto the housing with several thin bolts, and the housing/pump unit then bolts to the motor with just 4 big bolts. You can fit your new pump to the spare housing before you take bits off your working car - and if you snap any of the thin bolts you can fix them at your leisure before proceeding.
(1st attempt at using the forum uploader - comments welcome )
The latest to-do job that got done? Stripping the bendix on the NOS starter I fitted a couple of months ago It has been fun playing the "will it engage or won't it" game every time I want to use the car but it got a bit silly and I need it reliable next month (boring but needs must...)
A quick strip - clean - lube worked wonders (never failed yet! ) I guess the assembly oil/grease had fossilised over the past 30 years while it sat on a shelf and was causing the internals to stick. Graphite spray seems to have fixed things
Latest news ... Our friendly postie delivered a box of goodies, including lots of DA disks so I can prep a set of doors for painting (when I decide which ones make up the best set), a mate has already said he will chuck some paint on them for me The pick-n-mix bag also included a load of LED panel bulbs, I've made a start replacing the dash idiot lights, still got a couple left to do. There's also a few spare if anyone needs any i.imgur.com/jD7iAGK.jpg
Next job - tappets, and get a radiator sniff-test done to see if headgasket has gone (if not - try to find out why water keeps going down )
Today has been "fun" Has a trip to mates workshop so I could use his tester to check if the headgasket had blown, got there and found it uses special fluid and he had run out. So much for that idea! On the plus side I did get a coffee and a free heavy duty battery out of the trip
Got home, did the headgasket in about 2 hours (no problems) but managed to knock the rocker cover when I was putting it back on the rebuilt engine and lost one of the bolts. Spent about half an hour looking for the bolt in case it had bounced down the pushrod tubes into the engine, couldn't find it in the engine or on the floor under the car so took the car out for a test drive hoping for the best. Nice little run out, got home and opened the garage door and saw the bolt on the floor where I had been working on the engine. I blame gremlins
Tip Hunter headgaskets have an extra hole at one end - this goes to the back, if you fit it the other way you block the rear waterway. Spot the latest additions - a new battery and new rad cap
In the end I decided to keep the original doors on the car and just cut a small repair section from one of the back door inner skins. I think I've upset the forum image uploader today (or it's got other problems) so no pics of the finished door but this gives you an idea