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Jul 12, 2023 20:00:24 GMT
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Any decent filler for plastic bumpers will be fine. Depending on the depth of the fill, normal car body filler can be used but as it cures hard and doesn't flex like plastic filler you can't go too deep as flex in the bumper will cause it to snap. Small areas no deeper than 1mm you should be fine though, and it feathers out better than plastic filler. That said, I've never used non plastic fillers on bumpers myself as I like to do it by the book.
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Right. Finally read that enough times for it to make sense.. However, the detail of final colour/finish is kind of irrelevant as process to repair up to paint stage remains the same.
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What I meant was that white (regardless of quality) is a forgiving colour as it's more difficult to see any imperfections in the repair underneath. If the dent has sucked in the metal above that swage line slightly then I would still just sand the paint off the area of damage and skim the lot. You won't really make your life any easier by drilling holes in the inner and it might have another skin behind that too.. Sanding filler down isn't some kind of dark art, give it a crack and see how you get on
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Tbh there isn't much need to get that dent out, it's small enough to just fill it and any slight filler imperfections are water under the bridge for a car that's going to be rattle can white when finished.
To repair: 80g disc on a DA/orbital sander and grind that back until the corrosion is gone. Sand the area around it and feather the edges back, then a single skim of regular body filler will do the trick. Sand your filler to shape with 80g abrasive then get the scratches out with 180g, prime it and paint. Easy job, don't sweat getting that dent out, there's little point going to the extra effort. Though if it's going to keep you awake at night then mig tack a nail into the dent and pull it with some mole grips then grind the tack off before taking the above steps to refinish.
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May 31, 2023 20:26:31 GMT
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On a mk4 golf which to my knowledge contains no high strength steel, B-post damage should be perfectly repairable. Just to be clear, it is a Mk2, one that has 4 doors, but hopefully that does not change much [/quote] So it is! Misread your first post that said mk2 4door From the images posted I wouldn't expect to se much deformation of the B-post but I suppose it's a possibility. Nothing surprised me when it comes to accident damaged cars! Do you have any photos of the car from the outside as it is today? Does it have bolted or welded hinges or half and half? (My capri has the inner part of the hinge bolted to the pillar but the outer half on the door is welded. When it was repaired previously did it get NEW doors or 2nd hand ones? Is there any buckling to the sill seen with the doors open? Can you check the curve against the opposite side with a long straight edge? This will help me identify where the misalignment is occurring and what you can do to rectify it (short of you driving up to Scotland for me to take a look in the metal!)
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May 28, 2023 22:16:04 GMT
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On a mk4 golf which to my knowledge contains no high strength steel, B-post damage should be perfectly repairable. Do you have any photos of the car from the outside with the door shut to show where its not gapping up properly? Logic would dictate that if it was involved in an accident then the bottom of the post would be 'in' but need to see the outside to be sure.
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May 25, 2023 19:27:00 GMT
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It's probably one of those things that has to be done right by someone with the right eye for what their doing and a certain amount of artistic ability. You can't just slap it on and expect it to look wow. bmcnut hit the nail on the head with this. Never seen it before but for me the best executed car so far is the white MX5 followed by the blue K11 micra. Micra looks like it's had the right attention to the right details but the MX5 momentarily fooled my brain into thinking it was a rendering.
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Audi A4/5/6's etc use the 6HP**A box which has awd output and built in torsen diff for quattro goodness.. just saying! My daily A6 has this very 'box but I do wish I had the later 8 speed. More ratios means more time on the power band and I believe the 8HP series boxes also have quicker shift times than the 6HP (2 or 4wd)
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Not a bother, hope it the advice comes in handy. I don't really have the time to start a build thread of my own so I see it as my way of giving back to the RR community!
Don't worry too much if you do tug a hole or two in it, wait till you're about ready for filler and close them up with the MIG before hand. By the way, you will need to wax the inside of the panel regardless as spot welding the pins on will burn a small amount of the factory corrosion protection off the back as the panel gets red hot for a second while the pin fuses on. Don't forget to do it!!
Looking forward to seeing the update!
Tom
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Now I'm at my PC I can reply to this in a bit more depth and use MS paint to your advantage! Due to the return (recess bit) for the wing, the section highlighted in red is the strongest part of the panel. First thing is to weld on a thin bit of plate steel, maybe about an inch wide, at the deepest part of the dent along the outer (visible) radius and tug that down until the fit to the wing is more or less where it needs to be then work the rest of the 'long' part of the dent with the pin-puller. You may need to cut it off and re-position it a couple of times. Reason for this is that if you pin-pull the shallow part and hope to bring the return with it you're gonna be there ages and pull the dent all over the shop before it looks something like it's meant to. This wastes time and makes your life more difficult (especially if you're new to this kind of repair) and the likely-hood is that you won't get it all out. See point number 2... The pin-puller is unlikely to have the balls to pull that return edge out and will either keep slipping off or pull a bunch of holes in the sill which will need MIGing up afterwards. The other thing is that the force required to pull the panel back is concentrated on the point of the pin which will put a series of nipples in the panel before it brings the whole lot out (if it ever does). And as the Rothenberger type dent pullers like you see on eBay don't allow you to pull multiple pins at once, you're effectively using the wrong tool for the job as you need to bring that wing return edge out all together as pulling the metal uniformly leaves a better foundation for the filler work on top. Once you have the deepest strongest bit dealt with, work your dent puller in a spiral around the dent working inwards. As the metal has stretched, by pulling the outside of the dent you are gently shrinking the shallow edges of the dent bit by bit meaning your metal is as close as possible to it's original shape. By the time you get to the centre of the dent it will have disappeared to a point where you can flash over it with a 120 grid DA pad and apply some filler. You may notice in the video I posted earlier that the tech is tapping around the dent with tension on the pulling rig? The reason for this is that he is releasing the tension in the panel caused by the damage when it is held in the right shape by the puller. One last tip is to keep running your hand over the shape of the repair with your fingers together and feeling for the overall shape of the metal (make sure you remove any burrs from the pins first). If you have the flat portion in the right shape and the front of the sill is sitting nicely with the wing profile when fitted then the curved, more visible part of the sill will be fairly easy to get right, even for a beginner. Hopefully this has given you a bit of confidence with which to attack it. I've tried to give enough detail to not be vague but not too much as to make you over think it. Not easy teaching panel beating by remote!
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No experience with the rothenberger type ebay dent pullers but you should still have decent success welding on some pins etc. I never got round to it but I wanted to try cutting a slot in the contact tip of my MIG to see if I could spot weld on a washer to pull on to make a poor man's version of this:
You could just MIG tack on some washers for the same effect I suppose.
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Nov 23, 2022 22:57:12 GMT
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A few ways to do this: 'miracle pull' spot weld based dent puller as shown to tug it out from the bottom. It already needs re-stonechipping and painting so I would clean off the stone guard and pin it out. There's about 2 to 3 hours work to get it ready for paint. Failing that, use a mig to tack on some steel nails and then whizz them off with the grinder. As others have said, good blast of cavity wax when you're done and you'll have no issues. This would be mine and just about any other panel beaters chosen method.
Or: Make yourself a strong hook shaped tool from some half inch round bar which you can poke through the bunged hole in the front of the sill and poke it out from the back. Avoid using a straight bar or prybar type tool and prising off the bottom of the A-post as you will distort the hole for the bung and you'll end up dressing that up too and it looks pretty original so i'd avoid this route, personally..
You could get a paintless dent guy to look at it, you're essentially asking him to rough it out so you can fill/sand/paint as required so the same level of finesse isn't required meaning it's faster and cheaper. I would imagine you're looking at £50 to £75 including VAT to get that wiggled out..
Personally, I would urge you NOT to chop it out and weld in a new section. All you are doing (aside from hurting the originality) is introducing more places for corrosion to get hold. Plus it's a whole lot more time and materials intensive than carrying out a filler repair.
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Nov 15, 2022 21:12:51 GMT
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Interestingly, the correspondence is with copart and not AXA who are providing the insurance. I’ll keep you posted. Reason for this is that Copart have and estimating and engineering service of their own and will be referred the claim to deal with based purely on the value of the car based on the Glass' guide. The industry average repair cost is around 2 grand so the computer checks the value and says 'it's probably in the bin' and refers to Copart. Ask to see a copy of the estimate, see what rates they have used and what they're estimating for. Much of the time low value potential losses like this are estimated with a very broad brush to kill them quickly. It keeps the admin and hire car costs down and efficiency and profit up, naturally. I'll give you a quick 'fag-packet' estimate based on the images supplied (hours are decimals - 1.5 = an hour and a half) Rear bumper: MET (basically remove/refit/strip/rebuild total): 1.5 Repair 3.0 Paint 1.5 OSR 1/4 panel: MET 0.5 Panel 4.0 Paint 1.5 OSR door MET 1.5 (they're an to strip down) Panel N/A Paint 0.8 Paint prep time 3.0 Fade out lacquer at D-post 0.4 Mask OSR 1/4 glass 0.3 Fade out at dog-leg 0.4 check and qc with road test 0.8 wheel align inc adjust 2.0 pre and post repair diagnostic 1.0 Total hours 22.2 @ £35/hr = £777 (FYI - industry average is about 22hrs per job) EPA £5.00 Body filler £5.00 Paint materials, masking tape, rubbing paper, fade out thinner etc £700 OSR tyre (fitted) £100 maybe more depending on brand, probably a 240/45R18 on a C6 A6.. Repairs excl VAT £1587.00 including VAT £1904.40 Stick it down for a new rear bumper though and you can add best part of £1000 to that figure and bin the car easily. Lose the repair labour for the bumper but add another £100 in paint as there's more basecoat required to paint the full bumper, not just the primed repair and about £500 for a new primed bumper from TPS. Stick on a new bumper bracket for good measure, probably £35 quid knowing Audi, then the VAT... You see where i'm going with this.. Looks repairable to me but IDK the mileage, condition, optional extras etc. which all make a difference to value. They will total loss it at a given threshold of its value like 70% or something. Some repairers will repair up to 100% of a cars' value, may be worth asking the question. You are the third party so from an engineering/claims perspective they tend to assume you are totally peed off and bend over backwards for you. As soon as you dig your heels in and explain that you know the figures they may change their tune.. Direct line have the approach that by keeping the non fault party's 'customer journey' smooth they may win a new customer. Direct line run a VERY efficient operation from what I have seen.
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Oct 22, 2022 12:24:31 GMT
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Hi Kevin
Normally insurance companies differentiate between glass and collision claims and separate teams for dealing with them. It may be something as daft as Autoglass cannot purchase the correct replacement through their suppliers and they don't have the facility to order one off ebay etc because of the way they set up their purchase legers and accounts.
In which case it might be worth asking them if you can use a local body shop (who will be able to order one from just about anywhere) and sub out the fitting. You may even get a free wash out of it! Just make extra sure that you are paying the glass claim excess to the bodyshop and not your full excess. As it will cause delays at handover wife they insist you have to pay £300 Instead of £50 or whatever..
Don't worry if it's their own approved repairer, the whole thing will essentially be subbed out like a lock set or similar..
Hope that makes sense!?
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Aug 18, 2022 22:29:18 GMT
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Depends on just how tough the rubber is but you can buy trim lifting tape used by bodyshops for masking encapsulated glass etc. It's literally designed for the exact task you are doing...
Basically its 2 inch wide masking tape with a plastic strip down one side which you slide under the trim/rubber etc then pull on the tape and stick in place to hold the edge up.
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Jun 14, 2022 21:25:30 GMT
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Yeah, not for me. Though props to the builder for getting a better bumper to wing/quarter colour match than Nissan did from the factory though! Can't be a proper Nismo one though surely? Thought they has the AWD? Rear wheel says otherwise as others have said..
Incidentally, stick 'high peak autos nissan juke' in YouTube for an amusing roast/car review.. Can't copy url on my phone apparently.
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May 21, 2022 18:08:27 GMT
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No, the information above is from an OEM proxy parts catalogue we use at work so all the info is as it appears in mercedes parts catalogue including diagrams but you have to buy a subscription and can't go round handing out my company log in unfortunately! You can use a demo version with no vin look up here: www.partslink24.comHit the subscribe button at the top to see the prices, little over a tenner for a full day's access. Just screen grab to your hearts content!
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May 20, 2022 20:54:03 GMT
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VIN works! Good news is that full parts catalogue exists but is no longer updated. Most fasteners and consumables etc are available but body trim and large mechanical parts show NLA (can still get a windscreen and fitting kit with seals etc, badges, body to chassis bushes and washers and cylinder liners to name a few) Mercedes are pretty good at supplying OEM parts for their older cars so try them before you deal with overcharging muppets on flea bay... I managed to get a wing and all front bumper brackets and mouldings for a 1999 CLK320 in 5 working days for a customer. Shipped through their dealer network from germany so if they have anything you need you won't be waiting much longer than that I reckon..
Here's some info which may or may not make sense to you. It's much less than you would get for a modern. I was hoping for a build date and stuff but you could maybe get on to Mercedes in Deutschland with your order number and VIN asking if they have any more info??
Sales term MB 100 D Order ID 5222900123 Paint Code 3626 (rubinrot 88) Engine 61696310161710 (OM616) Transmission 71831110111521 (718.311 transmission if you're googling) Body 33256510218231 Steering 76645110 Other Body: 3
Model options list: (cut and paste) Type code Description 04105404 FIRST AID BOX 04105504 HAZARD WARNING TRIANGLE 04110903 FOGLAMP - INSTALLATION IN FRONT BUMPER; AMBER DIFFUSER WHITE 04111002 HEADLAMP LEVELING SYSTEM 04111301 STEERING - HYDRAULIC POWER STEERING 04111452 FLOOR COVERING - PERFORATED WOOD FLOOR, FOR SAFETY BELT ANCHORAGE 04111603 HEADLINER 04112132 SEATS - DOUBLE OCCUPANCY SEAT; FABRIC VERSION 04113102 RADIO INSTALLATION - PRE-EQUIPMENT FOR SUBSEQUENT INSTALLATION OF RADIO 04113203 HEADLAMP - WHITE BULB,WITH LIGHT RANGE REGULATOR 04113414 SEAT BELT - FOR ONE DOUBLE OCCUPANCY SEAT BENCH AND WOOD FLOOR 04114001 TORSION BAR - HIGH-LOAD TORSION BAR 04114811 INTERIOR TRIMMING, HARD FIBER - LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE PANELS,REAR 04120414 RUBBER MATS - FOR DELIVERY VAN CAB FLOOR AND STATION WAGON WITH WOOD FLOOR 04120415 RUBBER MATS - NO SPARE PARTS INVOLVED (ADDITIONAL WORK) 04121351 04122101 TRAILER COUPLING - FOR BOX TYPE DELIVERY VAN,STATION WAGONS I & II,LONG & SHORT VERSIONS; BUS & PLATFORM VEHICLE,LONG VERSION 04122301 ANTINOISE CAPSULE - TROPICAL VERSION 04122902 TORSION BAR,FRONT - H.D. STABILIZER 04123901 GUIDE SIGNS - USED FOR TRAILER COUPLING 04126801 SPEEDOMETER WITH TRIP ODOMETER READING IN KILOMETERS 04127001 OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR-ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - FOR HEATED OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR 04127101 BRIGHTNESS CONTROL,INSTRUMENT LIGHTING 04127702 LOCK - W/ANTI-CHILD DEVICE IN SLIDING SIDE DOOR 04127801 OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR - HEATED REARVIEW MIRROR 04128208 REAR END DOOR HINGE,270 DEGS. 04128610 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT USED FOR SERVICE WITH TRAILER - LONG WHEELBASE; 7-POLE PLUG SOCKET 04160205 OIL PAN - FOR VEHICLES WITH ADDITIONAL UNITS 04160605 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY 04160817 INJECTION PUMP - SEE STANDARD MICROFICHE 04163903 ENGINE PARTS USED WITH POWER STEERING 04164801 ABGASREINIGUNG
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Turbogeek is correct 616 141 07 01 is the part number for whatever part that it's cast into.
I can't do a Partslink search without a VIN, so PM if you like and I will see what I can find. Hopefully I can get the aggregate details for the engine as a sub assembly from the VIN. Looks like the M100 is on Partslink too..
Additional info for the anorak in you. May come in handy for others in the future: MB part numbers the first 3 digits indicate the model it applies to unless it's a part that applies to multiple models in which case they apply to the sub-assembly. IE parts beginning A 211 XXX XX XX will be specific to the W211 chassis E class. If it were a part specific to say the OM648 engine in one of those W211s it will begin A 648 XXX XX XX. (although if I were being pedantic, some parts may begin A613 XXX XX XX as the OM613 is the predecessor to the OM648)
The second set of numbers relate to the part location so in the number below 880 refers to the front bumper cover, the second to last two (if I recall correctly) indicate left - 01 or right 00 (where applicable) and variants so bumpers will have various combinations on modern cars especially as you will have with park assist (4 or 6 sensors), with headlamp washers, with AMG styling, 360 camera etc and all combinations available for those trim levels.
Supplementary numbers refer to colour so A 176 880 06 40 9999 is a front bumper for a 176 A-class, 9999 indicating that the part is supplied in primer. I'm yet to work out what the first of the four additional digits is for but the last three are the paint code for the outer body if the part is supplied in body colour (ie Jupiter red mirror cap for a A176 A-class ends 3589, 589 being the colour code)
VAG have a similar system which uses model, location, type and colour in that order.. I once rang my local TPS to check a part number and the guy guessed black textured NSR door moulding for a MK6 golf straight off the bat. Tom
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Feb 11, 2022 23:23:30 GMT
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Having re-read the article the second paragraph states that this so indy repair shops can conduct safe repairs?
"The specific issue is whether car owners and independent repair shops should have access to the telemetric data generated by their cars. As cars become increasingly complex and computerized, the data they generate is key to conducting safe repairs. Access to that data has been withheld by automakers to keep people from repairing their own cars"
The only thing I can see this being relevant to is the advent of ADAS, for which you need specialist hardware and software to check and calibrate as each manufacturer has different systems and combinations of systems depending on model and spec. Thus putting it outside the capability of all home mechanics!
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