ChasR
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1986 Porsche 944 T. ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Nov 25, 2023 11:14:58 GMT
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It's good to see you make a return Gavin. I hope you have kept well.
It's also good to see the 944 is alive and kicking! It will be good to see what has happened with this car and what the plan for it is in the future.
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ChasR
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BMW E46 M3 : That's the ticketChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Nov 20, 2023 21:49:48 GMT
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With the dog keeping me company, I cracked on with the suspension refresh: It's amazing what a painted garage floor can do! It was time to go out with the old, and in with the new: I have a suspicion the rear dampers had seized. The rear dampers are not original to the car, but are genuine items. They felt tigher than the items I was fitted, but they did not rebound back out, despite being gas dampers. I've read that Bilstein B4s can seize on these, but I wonder if they are simply worse than the factory dampers, which may eventually seize anyway. Either way, they were not gone. However, the underseal was cracking ever so slightly near one of the strut towers. I feared the worst, and thought the towers had cracked, and were going rusty! Nope! There was good metal there after taking it back to the metal. After -wire brushing it back with an angle dringer -Hydrate 80 being applied in the area, with heat to speed up the reaction -A Mystic Blue top coat then applied -Dynax UC applied on top to seal it all. The damper could finally go in. It was then time to tackle the fronts. I normally hate these socket type affairs for damper fixtures. I need not have worried! It complied very well! It was then time to bin the old top mount bearings, which were past it, and fit the new ones. With that done, I fitted the fronts, sorted out the ride heights on a first pass by eye, and then put the car outside. Errr! I made the car higher! Would I resolve this in time prior to RRG? Would I struggle as much as M539 did with his 330i, with regards to lowering? More to come later.
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Club RR Member Number: 170
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BMW E46 M3 : That's the ticketChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Nov 20, 2023 21:18:37 GMT
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So, a few things happened above! Yes, the update has taken a while to put in! The M3 was put into use between RRW and RRG at times. However, I knew the suspension was iffy. It was very odd as it still gripped well enough and had a verve about it. Despite passing the bounce test and not having leaky dampers, there were clues not all was well -the car felt chattery and almost skittish over any road surface that wasn't perfect -The ride while feeling soft, also felt slightly harsh at times. -At speed, the front end would bottom out quite readily at humps in the road. Clearly, something had to be done. After I convinced myself the B16s were the way to go, I thought I'd get more hardward. -Some new top mount bearings ; My top mounts were fine thankfully.Given that the bearings are cheap from BMW, I got a pair of bearings from them. Would I need them however? -Rogue Engineering rear top mounts
I got these as I'm aware the factory mounts can be iffy, albeit Sachs and TRW are meanst to be genuine items, albeit in the aftermarket supply ; The part no however on the mounts would suggest that they are an older level of part, to what BMW now fit, after doing some digging. I also forgot with the remnants of my then forgetful brain that I actually bought a set of Sachs top mounts! Anyone want some OE spec top mounts? I got the RE items, mainly as they have a good rep, they come with the reinforcement plates for the damper towers, in addition to being one of a few mounts which allow for the dampers to be removed without taking apart the inside of the car. This would prove handier than I thought. These mounts also last. I found out alot more about the mounts. The fact that BMW dampers for the E36 and 46 (and maybe the E30?) have the damper mount at the top almost act like a pivot, it's not a surprise that they crack, and the mounts fail. This mount with the rubbers does allow for some articulation, where I was worried the PowerFlex mounts would be too firm. Best of all, a friend of mine got me these from the States . So, I had the gear, but would I have an idea as to how I would fit it? Of course I did! In typical style, I started on the job during the week I was going to RRW. I do love a deadline! In my defence, looking after the family beagle, while my parents were away, and being busy at work, just consumed alot of time. Still, at least Bailey looked thankful for my time! No, he was just a little needy! But just look at that adorable face! Anyway, with just days to fit the suspension, I cracked on.
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Last Edit: Nov 20, 2023 21:25:17 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Posts: 10,195
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BMW E46 M3 : That's the ticketChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Nov 20, 2023 21:15:41 GMT
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Well, it has been a while, since I've updated this thread. It's about time that was corrected. After RRW, I did a few shows: The Gaydon gathering where a familiar face was present: Bicester Heritage, with another familiar friend! It was a little stormy however! It was lucky that no one (well no one I knew of) had their car damaged with the wind blowing down Gazebos and fencing: I'd even let my nephew sit in what is probably the oldest car he's sat in. He was a little awkward to get out of the car! Maybe he didn't want to leave such a car: Before finally, assisting in fixing this turd again! I'll update the thread for this at some point, but I almost don't know why folks buy these Saabs, bar their cheap cost. The parts supply is a nightmare for this car! Oh, and I saw some fancy BMWs at the local dealership! But more on that trip in another post. Finally, I took the car to the 'Metcalfe Curves' aka Burford, with a few mates. We had a great day out, and some fun on the back roads. Starting off at Gilks, we thought we'd sought ourselves out: After which, I did the Hook Norton Brewery tour en-route Before finally tackling the roads of Burford. It seems a few folks, albeit not many, had a similar idea. Sad, or genius? I'll leave that to you folks to decide. I think I know which car I preferred! Was I loving it? You bet! That month wasn't completely plain sailing, but those were the highlights. Another lack of a highlight was the state of the M3. Sure, it had the noise licked on that Burford trip, but it was evident that the suspension was on borrowed time. More on that later however. Oh, and the BMW visit? This was one of the items I bought. A driveshaft bolt. I was going to cheap out, but I figured I'd get these bolts. It looked like it might have been a wise choice, looking at its design. But that was not the only hardware I got. More on that in another post: Oh, and here's a cool BMW from a local show:
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Last Edit: Nov 20, 2023 21:21:57 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
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Totally fed upChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Without making this a thread about something, I'll chip in with my 2p. I've had Covid a few times now. The first time, I: -Couldn't remember everything I did, or rather, how I remembered things previously (i.e an almost picture like/recording of a memory) -Was just shattered From having a clear memory, which remembered everything, anything to remember became a real struggle. A few folks even noticed I spoke different, mainly as I used contexts to try and remember things. It was scary not remembering conversations from literally an hour go, that I'd spent 30 mins having. I suppose me needing to take breaths like Jeremy Clarkson did, with his smoking habit, due to a lack of breath, also helped in this not being too obvious to most, as I didn't really speak about this until months after; I also knew my mum if she found out via friends or family would be very concerned, as would my sister, who is a doctor) . Considering I chair a number of meetings at work, this became a nightmare. To make matters worse, I was simply shattered after work. Doing any sort of work on the car, bikes or house was a real struggle. Work would basically shatter me, and have me in bed for a couple of hours most days straight after work. I would basically only do bits of work on the cars if I had to (i.e pass an MOT, service it etc.). I frankly hated working on cars for a bit. Paying something for me isn't an option either, like yourself. The expenditure simply isn't there. I earn a decent wage, but the house bills etc. will wipe out over almost half of my income (FWIW, my house isn't massive or pricey or anything either), meaning the costs of outsourcing will soon build up. I do feel for others at the moment, who aren't so lucky with rates etc. as that must be a little hand-to-mouth I imagine! That said, while work over the last month has gone into overdrive, the mojo etc. has come back. I'm reasonable now. Memory is back to a reasonable state, and the lethargy has almost gone, even when it is cold. But I do have an age advantage which I admit is possibly an unfair advantage. A few friends of mine are about a decade behind you, and it's interesting hearing them struggle, but also how they manage to do it as well. There's no magic means of getting your mojo back but there are things that can be done to make it less of a chore. Take a break, do some other things you love, come back to it when you have the desire. I've been in the same position with cars, walking away and then coming back worked wonders for me. Tom This is some great advice. It can seem like a lifetime of waiting at times, but even a week away from the car can help, if you don't need to drive it. The mojo for my M3 was low for a couple of years TBH. It's now back. A few things helped: -Chatting to mates about their projects as well as mine. It still fascinates me, how conversing with something about an issue can help you to fix a problem, whether it's you talking about it or them, even if the other party never suggested anything obvious on how you fix the car. I suppose this is where forums can be semi-valuable as well. Yes, it's not quite the same as bouncing off ideas as someone in person, but it's still pretty damn good at assisting. -Doing the smallest of jobs on it. Even something small is one less thing to do later. A bit of trim to do? Do it? Clean the engine bay, so it's not the same grubby, slippy mess to work on? Clean it. Inflate the tyres, so when you have to move it, it can be easier to move? Inflate them. Just chiselling away at jobs can make the world of difference when it matters. As an old boss said, many crumbs make a cake. -Having decent kit to do the job. Not everyone has the chance to get decent gear over the years, albeit I do save a bit of a 'slush' funds, so as to rigorously to improve the parts inventory. Since I work on the cars myself, I justify it that way, especially now that rates have really climbed up for folks paying to have work done on their cars. Things like my impact ratchet and rattle gun have helped massively, and made routine tasks far less of a struggle ; I can name about 3 jobs I did on my E91 over the last two years which made the rattle gun pay for itself. The Snow-Foam lance I have for my pressure washer recently, has massively helped in keeping the arches etc. cleaner, so it's not just a dirty mess to work on a car when I have to. It's odd having cars with clean engine bays now, but it does help signficantly. -Having good help at hand. I've had friends help out and have picked up things from them. It's helped me improve my techniques, and become a better 'mechanic'. Am I some sort of master? No chance, but I'm alot better than what I was, which helps with speeding things up. -The YouTube content out there really helps. Whether it's a how-to video from a known person, or just seeing someone run through a car, to get it back to its former glory. It's curse word when you get into a rut, and there does not seem to be a way out of it. But keep the faith, and hopefully one day, the mojo will re-appear, and then flourish.
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ChasR
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Club RR Member Number: 170
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Six month restoration build for a client and collection has already been pushed on a month and then another fortnight, with lots of things taking more time than thought, and finally it's this Saturday at noon. yesterday afternoon after a big push it was looking very promising. Then it wouldn't go into gear. Could not see any issue but it's a box I'd repaired, so in the evening (by which I mean 8pm to 3am) I changed the box over for another one... with the same issue. Much more fiddling and it turns out it's the shifter linkage, which is fouling by the slightest, merest amount but it's just enough. So, found another linkage that would work. Built all back up again. Found in my haste that I'd broken a pipe when ripping the box off in middle of night. That's adding insult to injury after I'd realised changing the box was a waste of many hours. Only access to the said pipe was to remove the servo, bracket and heater matrix. Did all that lying upside down. Tried to bleed clutch for quite a while. Realised the master cylinder was faulty. Spent 2 hours replacing that. Got it bled - slave cylinder randomly decided to explode inside gearbox. Managed to fish all the parts out of the box via magnets and hopeful thinking. Fitted another one. Couldn't get a gear. Pulled the slave back out (which means dropping the box, every time) and measured it and found the hydraulic pin on it was 4mm shorter than it should be depsite matching part numbers. Figured that was the cause and changed that for yet another one, and bled the system again (almost used the whole gallon of Dot4 now) and it made no difference. Sitting here at midnight trying to figure out why the clutch will not disengage when the pedal is pressed. Pedal is firm, fluid is bled. Starting to worry that the new clutch isn't the right one... Also would like to sleep. What car is this? A number of modern cars have a self-adjusting clutch. This is done so as to reduce the effort at the pedal end as the clutch wears , in addition to helping the usable life of the clutch. When the pressure comes off the clutch now and again completely, the clutch can be left in a position which doesn't give you the means to have full engagement, which can imititate a poorly slave cylinder. The solution is to reset the pressure plate. There are special tools out there, but there are ways that it can be done without the tools. It can be done on the car, but it's not simple, and it's a box off job. I'm now on a family call, so I'll be back with what I did this weekend, including: -NEC Classic Car Show -Collecting some wheels for the E91 ; some winter wheels -Collecting another car with a friend.
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Hydraulic scissor liftChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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May be worth a look at Costco as they stocked a similar set a while back. You are right though, the web is full of fake sites advertising these. Those were ones by Quikjack. I fancy a set myself. For what the OP wants, I think he wants the ramp type pictured, not the ones which lift via the sills.
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ChasR
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Nov 14, 2023 17:32:57 GMT
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It's good to see some progress.
If you are getting a Hobbyweld bottle, do you need a regulator? I'm happy to lend mine if required.
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ChasR
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5k budget what to get?ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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The 2000 would be my pick for the money.
However, it will need NOVA'ing over here being a European car, and that's something which can't be done as a self-NOVA anymore, unless you're VAT registered, and then there's 5% of the value to pay for (which is taken off market value, not what you paid for it), which can be called somewhere around £300-500, and whatever fee the shipping agent wants for their 'work'/access. Obviously, you have a 14 days window to NOVA it once it his UK shores, unless you fancy a larger bill.
But bar that, it's not too bad to register the car. Several clubs can help with dating the car, if the Irish 'logbook' does not.
I've just had a similar ordeal with a Honda NC50. Annoying as only 3 years ago, I did a self declaration on the Velosolex, with no fuss.
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2023 0:23:04 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Car tyre puncture kitChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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The one thing with the goo in the tyres are, tyre fitters can be funny about repairing the tyre. Some refuse outright to repair the tyre, while others charge more, or moan about changing them.
I suppose with the strips, it's one thing you can avoid potentially doing.
But as said, if the tyre has popped off the bead, there are bigger issues to contend with.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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5k budget what to get?ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I wouldn't get hung up on the tax exemption and free test. Yes, it saves hundreds a year but:
-I quite like getting cars tested (read on as to why) -I know of some death traps folks drive around in with an exemption (cracked windscreen, rotten sills and iffy brakes, but then they'll spend the lot on an uprated engine), so it's not something I'd condone myself off the back of that, mainly as it tarnishes our reputation.
On a 50cc Moped with No MOT? Fine ; they barely muster 30MPH on a good day. On a car? No chance.
Cheap spares can be a mixed blessing. I've been there before with BL stuff, and those with BL who actually drive them will often chase for NOS stuff, as some of the newer stuff is awful. There is more to life than fixing the same thing over and over and over again. What did Einstein say about that again?
On the MGB and Stag, I could get uprated and NOS parts that worked but the cost went up dramatically (i.e drop links that didn't last a year, bushes that didn't have play from the moment they were fitted etc. etc.). But then again, I like to make progress in my cars (but not going massively over the speed limit), and not slow up every man and his dog on the road, because I have a tired classic car, so maybe I'm a little fussy there.
If I were you, I'd be looking at 2 cars with your criteria.
-Moggy Minors, but buy the best one you can for the cash -Landcrabs. -Austin Allegro. They're not the joke they once were. With some decent tyres and refurbished Hydragas units, they're not too bad. -Rover P6. Something like a 2200 would be a great thing to drive. Maybe take the Mrs to go and see one? My sister hated Skodas until they went to a Skoda dealer to see a few, and then she wanted one (OK, a Superb Sportline, but you get my drift).
If something newer, I'd debate the following, albeit I'm biased:
-Merc W124. £5k will get something pretty nice, and insurance is cheap. Spares are good as well -BMW E46 Coupe. You'd get into a 325i with that cash, but only just. They're pretty simple to work on as well. -Pug 205 : I love these, but parts availability could be a pain -Renault 5 or a Twingo. The latter are rare in this country. -Alfa 145 : These are very underrated, and a real hoot to drive, and great to live with. They are cheap to buy in great condition, and they do start conversations at classic shows, as they simply aren't seen about anymore.
They make a Mini look poor value in many ways. They're not a car I really cared for until I drove one and had it for a few weeks. A friend is selling one, and truth be told, I'm tempted to buy it. You'll have a good chunk of cash left over. Biggest issues are rust, and some parts drying up supply wise.
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2023 17:46:30 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
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Club RR Member Number: 170
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Car tyre puncture kitChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I do indeed! Which shape have you bought? An E63? It would not have come with anything, since this was the time that BMW had Run-Flats from the factory. Later cars from all brands now have Continental kits, like the link below, which do work well. My E46 M3 came with a fancier looking version of this, as M3s didn't have spare wheels either. www.care4car.com/tyre-accessories/continental-compressor-and-tyre-sealant-kit.htmlI doubt these work in the sidewall, but they do work as a quick fix for normal punctures to get you out of trouble. Now, for the tyre repair kits, I've used them on a motorbike and on a car. They do work, and work well. I think however, they may be illegal or in a grey area. I know Tesla recovery folks use these. I do also keep one of these kits in my boot, as per the link below. www.thevisorshop.com/en/Bikeit-Tubeless-Tyre-Repair-Kit/m-20113.aspxOn both, I've put proper puncture repairs in from garages at the earliest opportunity, mainly as I've never had a proper puncture repair fail. Several folks have seen these last a long time however, so the choice is yours there really (y)
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Last Edit: Nov 4, 2023 15:47:49 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
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Shocking Rear Shock Absorbers.ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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If that's the case, I should be a Formula 1 engineer . Furthermore, friends have as well. Maybe folks are used to just driving iffy cars, or simply buyer cheaper bits "Because they all come out of the same factory?" Granted, it's a truck so the differences should be less, but if an MGB can improve from damper changes (OK, Lever arms to Telescopics), then maybe there is more to it than meets the eye. I've tried a few in the past. Excluding fancy ones like KWs and fancy Bilsteins, you get what you pay for. My experience? Genuine : Close to a new car ride; I was stunned the first time I had genuine dampers fitted onto a car after buying pattern stuff, a Mondeo in this case, where I tried many items on the cars due to the miles I did. OEMs wouldn't change the specs by engine size or tyres, if they thought no one would be able to tell the difference . I'm talking Fiesta and Mondeos here, not Sports cars. Sachs ; Pretty good. I've fitted a set onto the 325d, and bar the firmness in some cases, the damping isn't far off what I'd want for a daily. Bilstein : Similar to Sachs. Some I've seen seize on some cars, but that seems to be down to the application and not the damper (I suspect my factory items had seized) KYB: With these, I did an A/B comparison on my Merc W108. I got the Gas-A-Justs and removed some Bilstein B4s. The B4s have a wallow, albeit a slow-motion one ; They were barely 2-3 years old and didn't have many miles. The KYBs removed the wallow completely which is why I tried them, but were a little firmer; not enough to make you hate the car, but it was notable. That was noticed by 2 other folks who used to travel with me in the car. It's something another friend has noticed, is that KYBs are a firmer damper. Monroe : Very so-so. A friend fitted a set to an Alfa 156 2.4 JTD, thinking they'd be fine. After all, they're all the same right? . With Fresh Eibach Springs for the car (Pro-Kit so not mega low), and Monroe dampers, he hated the car. The front developed a nasty wallow, and sometimes would ground out as it wallowed on some speed bumps. As he had a palava changing the dampers (because Alfa), he got sick of the car, and sold it on, with this being simply another contributing factor amongst others. On a Mondeo, the front end was as it was with iffy dampers 2 months after I changed them. I.e little damping over the bumps, and a 'chatter' of almost no damping on iffy road surfaces. This is odd as they are an OEM now, under Tenneco, for some very fancy setups. Maybe they don't care about the cars they're not an OEM for, which I've seen before on other parts? Meyle on a Mk2 Golf : Not as bad as the Monroes but they were a little underdamped and floaty, with a friend getting Bilsteins for his other Golf (a G60). TRWs : They are fine ; Not genuine good or controlled, but good enough for a daily. If I was saving cash, I'd get a set of these. I fitted a set of these onto our Saab. They don't look like the factory Sachs items (they are half of the size), but they are OK. The price difference is down to a few things: -Imports. Most of the big damper companies are in Europe. Naturally, they're taxed more and our exchange rate is poorer too -Inflation -Damper dynos ; this is something the cheaper brands will not do, as it's time and money for the car -Not matching the damper to the car ; basic R&D, but it costs. I've noticed most car parts have gone up, as have friends, including a chap I know who is a car trader ; he no longer buys from the motor factors for this very reason. Even with Chinese bits, there are Chinese and Chinese ; There are some outfits from China the OEMs won't touch due to poor processes, auditing (i.e tracking machinery goodness etc.) and practices.
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2023 18:07:42 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
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Oct 30, 2023 22:05:25 GMT
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Some good advice here. I'd add something though.
Buy the best example of what you can afford. Yes, folks may say you overpay, but you cannot put a price on time, and hassle incurred.
Parts and bodywork have skyrocketed in price lately, so having a good base will change matters.
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ChasR
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Oct 30, 2023 22:02:10 GMT
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I don't own one, but
1) A very good friend of mine has, and he's flipped a few in his time 2) Another friend has owned a few, and is now trying to sell one (a 320SL)
Both have owned their share of W124s, as have I.
They became a little old in the tooth towards the end of their life, but then again, they were old, and the competition had moved the goalposts, like the XK8 did, for example.
They are a pretty solid choice, but they can have some pretty big bills as well, mainly electrically. The roof can be scarily expensive to get working right (I think £1-2k rings a bell?), and can be tricky to diagnose.
Being that generation, they may also suffer from wiring engine harness issues. At the very least, the EFI (aka HFM) engines do, which include the
M104 280SL/SL280 M104 320SL/SL320.
I'm pretty sure the 500 falls into the iffy harness camp, despite not being part of the M104 family, as most Merc engine harnesses were biodegrable for the first time. This will cause no end of issues with the running of the engine, from misfires to the engine cutting out.
On a S124 E280 a mate had, the wiring harness almost cost him his relationship (he was told not to buy the car, as we discovered it had an almighty haircut, but the chap knocked the price down, so he bought it).
There is zero point in repairing the harness, as it willy simply fail elsewhere, and you will chase the harness until it's basically fully changed. A fresh harness on a 6 pot M104 is now about £800, with your old connectors being re-used, but the wiring being reterminated, so none of the old wiring is present. On a V8, I'd imagine that cost would be over £1k, given that there is more hardware to plug into.
Then you get suspension bits etc. but I think these are more reasonable in price.
They can also rot. OK, maybe not as bad as a Jag, but still, more than you think. Sills are a popular thing, so check beneath the covers and jacking points if you can, as well as under the car, generally.
Would I not get one with the above? Not at all, they are quite cool and have their place. That and compared to their contemporaries, like the :
X100 XK8 BMW E31 8 Series Porsche 928 (S2-S4 generation I'd guess at a similar age)
These look to be much better value you could argue, and with a lovely elegance. The issues on the above are not the same, but still pricey in a number of cases. After all, they were a premium car in their day, with the height of tech in them, and time hasn't changed that.
Overall, I say be aware of how things can go, but go for it, if the car feels right.
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ChasR
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E34 M51 cold start issueChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Oct 28, 2023 13:51:30 GMT
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I was going to say, it could be the glow plugs.
If they are like some M57s, putting 12V to them for any length of time will destroy them, as BMW mention themselves in the literature.
They tend to work at 5V normally, and at 12 for the briefest of occasions, at least they do in my M57N2 variant in my 325d.
That used to start on 4 cylinders when I got it, but only one looked bad. With a new controller and plugs, it now catches on all 6
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ChasR
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As if by magic, Nigel has replied to a thread in the group that I mentioned. In short, the guy got stung on the way back in, via the French Customs officers. A link to the thread is here, and here is what Nigel had to say. It may be worth pinning this detail in the 'helpful' section etc. www.facebook.com/groups/Trackstormers/permalink/4493624877471523/Apologies for the long post, but I believe it covers most of the questions you have. I've posted this before and is a summary of my understanding after speaking with the UK Carnet team. UK customs by email and in person and customs in Rotterdam in person and by email.
If you are just driving your road registered, taxed, MOT and insured track car you don`t need a Carnet. If you are trailering your road registered, taxed, MOT and insured track car you don`t need a Carnet. If you are transporting your car that is not road registered (ie no V5) you do need a carnet If you are trailering your road registered car and are carrying spares, you do need a Carnet. If you are trailering your non road registered car and are carrying spares, you do need a Carnet.
I crossed into Europe several times in 2022. The first from Hull to Rotterdam in April. My friend crossed the day before and he had a long argument with Customs after they pulled him to one side saying he needed a Carnet for his car on the trailer and he almost missed the ferry. I crossed the next day and wasn`t stopped.
This inconsistency is one of the biggest frustrations with the whole process. Some people will share an example of when they were stopped and turned away from the port where others have made many crossings with zero issues.
When we returned from the trip in April, my friend was pulled to one side at Passport control as the head of Customs at Hull had put a note on his details and they came in on Saturday morning specifically to talk to him to explain the actual rules and whether he did or did not need a Carnet as the customs officers themselves had given differing advice. They gave him copies of the UK Government website explaining that he should have had a Carnet and next time, if he crossed with the same load he would not be allowed to cross.
That sounds very clearcut, but then I spoke to someone else who crossed on the same ferry 2 weeks later and he was never questioned by customs. This is probably the largest cause of conflicting information online. I`ve seen it myself in several Facebook groups where someone will ask if they need a Carnet as they are towing their non road legal track car with spares, a person will explain that according to the rules they do need one, but then loads of others jump on and say they have never been stopped.
Returning in July there was an E36 and tyre rack parked up at the ferry terminal in Hull. When I asked about it, customs told me the owner didn't have the necessary paperwork and as a result could cancel his journey or leave the trailer behind and collect upon his return (which is why they'd left the trailer and carried on without it)
After the issues in April I purchased a Carnet so I wouldn`t have any worries on future crossings. I made further crossings on the Eurotunnel in July then Hull to Rotterdam in September and in both cases I wasn`t challenged about having a Carnet and quite honestly, if I didn`t have one I wouldn`t have been stopped.
That is a risk and it`s up to you if you decide to travel without one. If I was towing a road registered car with a few spares, I wouldn't bother.
If you do decide to get one, it`s around £520 for 12 months and as many crossings as you need. You get it from a chamber of commerce, you have to list ALL the spares you are taking. Regarding the trailer registration, Europe is a bit different to us, their trailers have their own numberplate. To avoid issues, I registered the trailer on the government website, bought a numberplate (it's a specific rectangular one). £35 and it's easier than explaining in the UK you don't need a trailer registration.
Overkill I agree, but for a one off fee for someone who goes 3 or 4 times a year , it seemed a no brainer.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 26, 2023 19:43:48 GMT
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Some suggestions assume I am not driving say a 1941 Wolseley, no standard head unit. No radio at all. Those ciggie lighter FM transmitters are FTW in a car with an FM radio. I've been using those for years very happily. Now phones don't have headphone jacks the "use a cassette adapter" and "aux in" things are no good any more. They do Bluetooth versions of those which work reasonably. My dad uses one of those for the Saab, but of course, it has a headunit already, which I suppose is what you're looking not to do. You can now get Amps which have Bluetooth connectivity. They're not cheap, but they look reasonable. For me, the MTX unit would be my pick, with the controller. The MTX: www.raysmith.co.uk/products/hidden-audio-bluetooth-amplifier-secret-stereo-1The CCS item: www.classiccarstereo.co.uk/shop/classic-car-stereos/autosound-classic-car-stereo/hidden-bluetooth-amplifier/In the Merc W108, I tried a few things, with varied results, but overall, reasonable, to good, but they did all involve a headunit, albeit of various flavours, including: -£13 Cheap Classic headunit -An Alpine SQ item, with a rare Parrot Bluetooth iPod box option -A Retrosound DAB, all singing all dancing item -Blaupunkt's Bremen 80s unit (That was in the S124 230TE, but it still made for a handy comparison). I doubt the above is what you want by any means however. In theory, another way around it would be to get a Bluetooth Handsfree kit, wire it away somewhere, and then have most of the control off the phone. I used this kit with a Becker Mexico Pro headunit back in the day, and it was fine and sounded well. It wasn't that pricey back then however (I think it was £65). I'm sure I did use it without a headunit back in the day, so this may be an option for you. These devices work by interrupting the car's sound via a 'patch'/interruption lead, meaning it has its own amplifier built into the device. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354075720582?epid=2254503034&hash=item52708ebb86:g:4QsAAOSwVRRijNp2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0LdP%2BenU2YnaiPf1abfCNQHnmSrTD%2BLAL31Ka0lhWJCpNt5dASstfVt54XLj1KN2edX0b9OJaC1WwQNeaGjow6JhgYv%2BkVPq5GKxknajsOfIQkFf1Rr%2Fcq5ffhw2ePgHfWGjOX8IaBdGHxKSRetsKBoBc8MFXD%2FRC8q%2FCrw6lUtuf9wADtbZrycDuBujbsVZxga1Q5ZR6uNcQ4bFvkvtCUaHpqeI7Uhg6WwuJgwtfgwGgT9qTZ3Z%2B9dvS4vZRB1%2Bxpb14egkXc2PDvb%2FfAe2DuE%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_DZjdjtYgAlmost all of the above however, were better than the portable Bluetooth music boxes, which until now, included : -a JBL Flip -Denon Envaya ; I still have this. This was as close as acceptable to the above choices, but no cigar. It also wasn't the best value in a car.
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Last Edit: Oct 26, 2023 19:51:03 GMT by ChasR
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 26, 2023 19:28:49 GMT
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What he said.
Folks transport seats to OEMs, as a built up unit (y).
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 26, 2023 19:26:38 GMT
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Hi Adam,
I can put you in touch with someone who rebuilds bikes, and bike engines. He's based in Kenilworth and Coventry, if that is any good to you?
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