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How did the recovery of the Cadillac work out? Yank cars of this ear, particularly column shifter cars, had interlocks that prevented the cars being moved from park into reverse, or neutral into drive or reverse, without the brake being pressed because of incidents where the car ran away while the driver was out of the car. The interlocks are usually mechanical and can be manually engaged. There are loads of videos on YT of Fords doing crazy reverse spins with no driver because the transmission column shifters could drop into reverse while the car was left idling. Ford avoided a recall to fix on certain models by recalling them and putting a sticker on the dash reminding drivers to not leave the car idling in park unattended. autoweek.com/article/wait-theres-more/little-warning-label-saved-ford-23-million-vehicle-recallAnother problem you might have is a seat belt interlock, lots of 70s GM cars wouldn't let you start the car without the seat belt being clipped in. I understand they were prone to failure.
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Mar 26, 2017 21:15:48 GMT
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I paid £1500 for this 500SL. I think that's 1.6% of the 1991 new price, which seems to have been £88,000. Thanks tali100 for the update! My £1500 is 2.1% of the 1991 new price of £72k. tali100 - Can you share a shot of the page in your magic book for the 300E/E320 from around the same time, '89 - '92?
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I paid £1500 for this 500SL. I think that's 1.6% of the 1991 new price, which seems to have been £88,000.
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Mar 11, 2017 23:15:04 GMT
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A W163, first gen, Mercedes ML is a sep-chassis car but it's still only 111 inches long. They do have the advantage of being seriously cheap because they rust like hell, but the drivetrains are good and you won't need the body anyway.
I eagerly await the build thread for whatever comes out of this, it's a cool idea and totally achievable but tons of work.
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Feb 19, 2017 19:50:17 GMT
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Dec 14, 2016 14:19:48 GMT
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Some early W210 Mercs came with 15" alloys or steels. The part number for the steels should be A 210 400 0702. If you can't find a full set try the boot of an early W210 in a scrappy as it should have a 15" spare. The standard alloys off of my W210 are 16", so I'd expect the steels to be the same Perhaps they were 15's.
Basically stock W202 C250 steels don't fit W210 E300TD..
I'm sure the bigger diesel W210s had different front brakes, so the spare/steel for the E300TD would be 16" for clearance. The 15" steels would only have been used on the early four cylinder, probably lower spec, W210 chassis cars. The PN on my 7.5" wide 16" black steels is 2104000802. That's the PN for the steels for the V6 and V8 cars. Confusingly, there's a part number for 16" black steels that apparently don't fit the V8 cars for whatever reason, I think to do with brake clearance again, and there seems to be yet another PN (which I don't have to hand, sorry, which is an 8" wide 16" black steel. I have a set of the 8" rims that I've never gotten around to getting tyres on because I got offered a set of 7.5" rims with virtually brand new tyres (via this forum) about ten minutes after I bought the 8" wheels on Fleabay. I didn't buy the Benz steel wheel studs, I got the same size from the VW dealer (Polo part) for a couple of quid each. (I know that's outwith the scope of the original question but I thought I'd leave it here so that nobody has to repeat the various mistakes I made when swapping to black steels)
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2016 14:22:18 GMT by Battles
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Jul 10, 2016 15:26:14 GMT
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I think you'll get your money at this price, but it'll take some time. Maybe try an add in some of the "proper" classic mags or the specialist classic Benz mags? Compared with some of the W124s advertised there, this is a total bargain.
I'd have this if I didn't already have a 130k mile 300e auto in smoke silver...
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2016 15:26:50 GMT by Battles
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Jun 29, 2016 15:32:43 GMT
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OK, rookie question, I know nothing about dashcams... is it the case that every time you drive the car, it records over the previous footage? Not in my experience. I've used loads of different makes and models, they all recorded a series of short videos and only delete the oldest video. So it's a rolling delete cycle. So with an 8GB card and a full HD camera, you might only have a few hours to pull the card and review it if you need it but with a 32GB card you'll have a few days of being able to pull the card. I've had the ones with g-sensors, didn't like them. They seemed to either not work when you needed them to or they activated all the time and filled the card up with undeletable "saved" files and then the camera starts reporting that the card is full. I'd recommend having at least one spare card in the car, they're not that expensive. Both for the above reason with the saved files or because the day the card decides to fail and give an error on the camera will undoubtedly be the day a taxi changes lanes into you on a roundabout and you have to take a 50/50...
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Jun 20, 2016 20:46:36 GMT
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If you're set on an RV8, grab a rotten Discovery with one?
There seems to be no less desirable Disco than a rotten V8 auto, so they were cheap even when scrap was a decent price, now they're even more appealing as engine donors. Bought one last year for peanuts (it was advertised here for a while but we got it through the local Landie group) and pulled the engine, 'box, axles etc. for a Defender conversion. There were enough eBayable parts left that we were close to getting the purchase price back when the shell was scrapped. We got eff-all for the shell and chassis.
It's not the most powerful variant but you'll probably get a runner so you at least know what you're starting with.
You need the space to strip/store it though.
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May 12, 2016 19:06:44 GMT
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This is a tremendous price. I'm supposed to be going to look at a really shabby one with no MOT for £500, this one has me thinking about the logistics of an Edinburgh>Bath jaunt...
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Apr 23, 2016 22:39:12 GMT
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Cruise control, 24v engine and ortho leather seats - that must've cost a facking bomb when it was new! Luuuuvly.
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I get this too, it definitely helped us settle into the new house (when it was new, been here years now) and it's never even got close to annoying.
People stop for a chat, ask about the cars and bikes, ask for advice, tell you stuff about their old motors and in some cases come back with photos of said old motors.
I think it's funny that people will take advice from, and double check advice given by a garage, with some geezer cluttering up the street with old motors.
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Mar 20, 2016 22:48:23 GMT
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Great thread, love the attitude of just giving it a go.
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Dec 14, 2015 17:57:40 GMT
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The Aldi LED ones turn off if you MIG weld near them Yeah? What causes that? I've got a couple of the Lidl LED ones, they're really good.
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Dec 13, 2015 20:57:42 GMT
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Hello everyone, I have a few questions about my 1988 Mercedes 190e 2.0 Auto. 1) How easy are the shock absorbers to remove/refit? It has lowering springs on, if it makes it any easier. If you want to take the springs out first you'll probably need the internal disc type spring compressors, I've had difficult, scary moments with W124 springs using the outside type spring compressors. I'm told there's a way to the shocks without removing the spring but I can't see how. 3) My ignition barrel has decided to knack up, and I can't get a turn on the key, how easy are the barrels to replace? From what I understand, the dash needs to come out, but can anyone shed some more light on this please? You can remove the ignition barrel completely quite easily IF and only if you can get the key to turn so try every trick in the book to get the key turned. It's quite difficult if you can't get the key turned, lots of drilling and hacking away. This is a decent write up of the procedure: www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-190E/48-BODY-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_and_Lock/48-BODY-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_and_Lock.htm
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Dec 11, 2015 13:05:44 GMT
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The problem with a car is it has windows so it makes you become abit more picky about where you sleep (don't want people seeing you really) even though I blocked the windows with cardboard and blankets, its still fairly obvious. With a van you could park anywhere and as long as your not to obvious about it, nobody would suspect its anything but a parked van. Also its a practical shape for sleeping and packing things. Doesn't take long to vinyl wrap the windows, like a plain version of this. Hairdryer, stanley knife, Fablon roll (or similar) from craft/diy store. Can use solid black or some colours may be a near-enough match (white being an obvious one). I recently drove an estate car with the rear windows all wrapped with the dotted stuff you can see through from the inside. It was a courtesey car from our excellent local Benz indie so I didn't mind driving an ad for him. I was surprised how much light came in when you were driving it and how difficult it was to see through it from the outside. Your Audi (though you're selling it, I see) would probably look decent with the rear passenger and load area windows done in white semi-see through. As long as the rear was big enough, obvs.
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a truck I'm looking at buying was manufactured in 1985 but the DVLA have it first registered in 2010.. it's RHD and I don't think it's imported... does that mean it was written off and re-registered or something? Something dodgy or am I making a fuss about nothing What plate does it have? Age appropriate or is is a 2010 plate? As suggested above, pretty common for cars and vans used on very large areas of private ground to be bought and remain unregistered until they change owners. A written off motor that lost it's identity for some reason and was considered a 'new' build when it was returned to the road would probably have had a Q plate assigned. I'm sure a write off that retained it's ID and plate would never have the date of first registration updated. Probably nothing suspicious. What's the seller got to say about it?
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It astounds me that people are still of this mentality. A BIVA test is £600, are you really going to let that stand in the way of building something cool? Bear in mind the stock PT front end is probably already 99.9% compliant with the testing standards, you only really have to consider any sharp edges on the bed, and getting the lights in the right place, and you should whiz though the test. I agree, BIVA isn't that hard to pass. You just have to build to the guidelines. BIVA is intimidating to a lot of people, especially people who have done a body-swap type build in the past. But that pickup composimmonite, is 100% bitching.
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Last Edit: Dec 5, 2015 22:34:32 GMT by Battles
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I like the 305 on the green steels. Is it raised or just a funny angle?
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