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Jul 23, 2014 11:05:19 GMT
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Last Edit: Jul 23, 2014 11:06:49 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 23, 2014 10:27:44 GMT
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Well after much digging in the shed i finally found a 21mm plug spanner to 'read' the plugs. They all came out easily and id even say some of them werent up to torque. So, running rich as richie rich. Ill regap and clean these up rather than replace as they look quite new - and test them too, and as a result of their colour ill give the CTS a change. Now i can crack on with the resistance readings from all the sensors.
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Jul 23, 2014 10:19:29 GMT
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Hi Rod, thanks for the heads up. It does say hes away until the 29th but il definitely give him a call In my younger and more foolish days id have drove it at 2am, but now I'm a little older and wiser!
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The Lucas 4CU flapper injection system can develop lots of issues with age. I have the same system on my TVR. I'd strongly advise getting hold of a copy of the factory workshop manual. This includes a full series of diagnostic checks, which can be carried out with no more than a normal multimeter. Ensuring that all the sensors are working correctly, and that things such as the throttle potentiometer are correctly set, are vital. Also, check carefully for vacuum leaks from old, dry, split hoses. Also PLEASE check the condition of any flexible fuel hoses - including those at the injectors. With regard to your ignition system, it looks like someone has fitted the wrong ignition amplifier. Yours should be a two pin amplifier, that looks to be a three pin. An adaptor lead is available, or just buy the correct amplifier. Hi mate cheers for the reply - ive got the run through of checks from an SD1 site, i hoped to get it sorted this weekend. Its difficult as its not on the driveway so i have to be able to get away from the wife to spend a decent amount of time on it. Will the incorrect igntion amplifier be causing my problems? From reading up on LR forums when people have gone from 2 pin to 3 pin they seem to have just missed a pin out, as mine is. Until i can realistically say that the basics are covered its all guesswork i suppose, which ill answer asap. Fuel, compression, spark.
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Last Edit: Jul 22, 2014 9:20:17 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 21, 2014 21:59:00 GMT
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I hadnt tried that, ill be honest. Ill give it a go. For such a simple job as a clean up of the earth points i was more focused on the curse word attached to them now! Ill have a go, cheers
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Jul 21, 2014 14:07:59 GMT
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I have a range rover classic at my work which will run, drive and move etc, I'm after getting it moved a massive distance of 7 miles to my driveway.
Handbrake works, its an auto so can sit in park too. I was considering calling RAC as i have recovery but unsure about how it works with it being SORN.
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Jul 21, 2014 13:35:04 GMT
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Well a bit of an update. It definitely runs a lot worse with the airflow meter disconnected, indicating to me hopefully that its ok. I cleaned up the temp sensor terminals but i think ill replace it as per routine to rule it out - allegedly when they are duff they will overfuel and cause it to stall. I also don't think its a vac leak as i disconnected the brake booster hose while it was idling and got a good healthy suction and it dies instantly. Dizzy cap is clean and almost new, however i went to pull the (new looking plugs) and they're massive! My largest plug spanner wasnt big enough and that was 19mm. Presuming they're about 21mm so need to pull them and check gappage / colour / if theres any fuel on them after cranking with the king lead disconnected. One thing, should anything be connected at this dizzy spade connector here? And i think i need to clean the earths up, they're minging. So as soon as i can get the plugs out itll be them, then fuel system. Some redex through the system will help hopefully. Aside from the above ive disconnected the cold start injector and rewired the totally knackered stereo wiring.
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Jul 13, 2014 18:54:50 GMT
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Cheers mate,I wonder how people survived with old motors before the internet sometimes.
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Jul 13, 2014 15:40:49 GMT
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Well ive just been up to the unit and checked the firing order, its correct. I reseated all the leads and connections on the coil, and they all look good. Coil is new, as it the rest of the ignition system.
I'm going to go back up tomorrow and renew the earths by the battery and by the coil, but I'm suspecting its something to do with vac hoses. The engine wont really rev up at all and when it does its rough as, like its missing.
Then i got into my 03 TDCI fiesta to come home and it wouldnt start.. air in the fuel.. when it rains it pours eh!
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Jul 13, 2014 12:05:18 GMT
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Have you tried spraying some wd40 or switch cleaner into the alternator? Sometimes that can work. Yep you can fit a disco alternator, the wiring connection on the unit may differ,but that's just a case of changing connectors on the wiring. Woot success today from nothing but a variable pressure applicator (hammer) Still idling rough but ticking the jobs off, next bus to clean all the earth's!
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2014 15:21:20 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 13, 2014 10:10:15 GMT
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I havent actually (will bring a hammer next time) but got somewhere today. Battery bulb was knackered so swapped that, cleaned the terminals up on the back of the alt and the rev counter grudgingly started working - but its almost like its misreporting. When idling its giving me barely 400rpm, when revving the off it i only get about 3500rpm. The battery light is now on constantly however and its definitely not charging. I played with it today with it hooked up to the works van and it was about 13.5v over the terminals, when i took the jump leads off it just went from 12.5v down to dying. Looks like i need to change the alt. does anyone know if i can use one from a disco? Or do i need one specifically from this model? Aside from that a little spanish tuneup sorted the idle out a little. Ive been told they love clean earth points for the igntion system so thats my next job, they look pretty crudded up. Some really great help there squonk, big thanks. Ill double check the ignition timing as it has had new leads recently, and put some redex through it i think.
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2014 10:13:31 GMT by oasis6x
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Jul 12, 2014 16:16:47 GMT
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Amazing advice.
I got up to it today and sods law it isnt charging, I'm getting 11.6 volts off the terminals at idle (before it died). Now I'm sure i remember someone i knew saying that the rev counter was linked to the alternator, as you said above, if the connection is curse word could it stop it from charging? i also heard that the battery light having a bad connection could stop it from charging.
I am hoping i don't need to start off by putting a new alt on it straight away - and it looks like its been changed recently. I hoping that its a relay/fuse/electrical gremlin.
Sounds like its missing on one cylinder when its running too.
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Jul 11, 2014 11:48:02 GMT
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Well.. it runs. Sort of. I think some of the vac hoses (probably the brake one) is had it. Brakes are curse word and spongy, pedals all the way to the floor. The engines hunting to be honest, however it could be because of the battery. I started it up and let it idle, which it does roughly. Put the heaters on full to cycle the coolant and it died about 2 minutes later, then wouldnt start.
So the battery is goosed or the alternator isnt charging. Battery shopping i go.
Id class it as tatty, there isnt an unmarked panel on it to be honest but the running gear looks good. engine sounds well and the autobox works, i drove it about the carpark etc and it starts, stops the drives. Its only recently been serviced too with new plugs, filters, oil, cap etc and leads. Cant have been cheap.
Rev counter doesnt work nor does the rear drivers electric window.
Not really sure what to do with it but ill probably get it running to a decent extent at least first then work it out.
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Thank for the picture, not sure how i missed it to be honest. Think i was probbaly looking for a white plastic expansion tank. Ive got a battery charged and I'm going to go up and see if it will start and run ok (it was towed to its current position)
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Jul 10, 2014 20:02:07 GMT
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No, there is an expansion tank on one of the inner arches. Looks like it's worth sticking it in for test just to see whats needed. Ah ok, ill have a nosey about to see if i can find it
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Jul 10, 2014 17:31:20 GMT
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Thats the attraction, that V8.
Ive been right round it today and all the inner arches are suprisingly solid and waxoiled. The bootfloor looks the same but i could only see from the inside.
The battery was obviously totally flat and i thought my works van might jump it off, but alas no. The battery is on charge now so ill know whather it runs ok tomorrow. When i tried jumping it off it just clicked away but all the interior worked, central locking, fans, wipers etc.
Its got the entire back bench missing and a side trim from the side of the boot. Also one side of the upper rear tailgate doesnt want to 'latch'.
I want to check the oil and water etc but couldnt see a radiator cap - only a big bleed screw bolt thing. Is this the only topup, ie no expansion tank?
Cheers guys
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2014 17:32:32 GMT by oasis6x
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If it is a problem I'd stick it on ebay as is. It'll probably still make £500+. Ah ok. at the moment its in the works car park as i can get away with it being parked there with a sorn etc. The only reason i ask that is storage at home is limited. How are these viewed in the classic car world? I imagine it likes petrol.
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Vogue is the base model (other than the Fleetline which was for foreign markets). The upmarket version was the Vogue SE. I have one of each (an 87 Vogue with an RPi 220bhp V8 and a 92 Vogue SE 3.9). Check the rear crossmember and boot floor for rot, along with the door pillars, inner wings, rear arches (particularly where the seat belt mounts are) and inner sills. These things rot like mad and can be a massive weld fest even if they look good. The inner frame behind the rear quarters is also a rot trap. Attack it with a screwdriver, the MoT tester will anyway!! Ok thats great, ill have a good poke about. I cant be doing with too much welding. The guy i got it off reckons he took it out and it failed a test last year (the only time its moved in a while i think) but it wasnt on welding, it was on a spring, loose bumper and other stuff. What should i do with it if it is full of rust? I realise this is a stupid question but its sort of been inherited, and i don't know whether the usual way is to scrap, strip, sell as is etc? I'm not too swept up on older stuff.
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Exposed door hinges and the lower but covered fuel flap along with the earlier dash style suggest that it is either an 86, 87 or 88. So if it is an 88 it could be an F reg. Late 88 would have hidden door hinges. In good/reasonable condition with a full test and back seats fitted it could make £1500. Classic Range Rovers are picking up value rapidly as most have either been off roaded to death or eaten by rust. Looking at the interior I'm guessing its a base model. I like the selection of wheels, Discovery on the back and Range Rover LSE on the front!! what's on the other side? I didnt even notice that! Ive never had a land/range so a lot of things ill have to read up on. If they're bringing that than its probably worth putting in for a test at least to see whats up. I don't have any plans for it, i actually ended up with it by chance. Hopefully i can get it running up to temp etc tomorrow and give it the once over, make sure the auto box etc works and see what else is knackered. It looks like its got a lift kit on it which is pretty new - or at least all the dampers and whatnot look aftermarket. DVLA says its a vogue, not sure what model this is.
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DVLA says its an 89, which is a bit later?
Manufacturer ROVER Model RANGE ROVER VOGUE EFI A Type ESTATE Doors Year 1989 Colour SILVER Engine size 3528 Transmission Fuel PETROL Date of 1st Registration 19 Jan 1989 Vehicle Registration Mark F*** *** Number of previous owners 6
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2014 17:25:42 GMT by oasis6x
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