slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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I'd consider it on my daily when it becomes cheaper than the alternative (and viable, currently I have no where to charge, inadequate range etc.) Pretty sure that will only happen when they literally ban or tax diesel into extinction tho.
Othwerwise I think it will just be a bit boring. It's a battery, motor and some sort of control box at the end of the day. All bought off the shelf and bolted in no doubt. It just doesnt have the complexity to interest me really. All the innovation is in the software or the chemistry of the battery and what not. Stuff that is a bit beyond me or simply doesn't interest me much..
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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which compressor to go for slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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50l should do. 100l might be better if your thinking of taking on large ish spraying jobs tho.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Garage bill query slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Apr 11, 2018 11:39:01 GMT
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Change your own oil next time!
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Can we have a list of who made the cut and who's in what session?
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Sounds good to me!
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Maybe it been mentioned but what's the layout of the track? Is it a full lap starting from pitlane or part lap like we did at Mallory?
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Banded Steels 101slater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Mar 28, 2018 12:12:09 GMT
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I actually use my wheel balancer as a jig, cut them with a slitting disk more or less free hand and order steel in cut to size (or just strip).. then pretty much just weld them up. One thing I've realised is you don't need to be very accurate about it. Most steels have plenty of run out from the factory so a visual check is good enough really.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Weld through paintslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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I've bought a box of the stuff frosts sell before and it works ok. othwerwise the bilt hamber stuff is about the same price by the looks.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Mar 15, 2018 20:34:20 GMT
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Hard to say without a picture showing the whole thing.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Piston ring questionslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Mar 14, 2018 23:36:17 GMT
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If you really want to know you have to use a leakdown tester rather than compression test but if you're just after a quick 'are they any good' then i think you have your answer.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Mar 14, 2018 23:18:43 GMT
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Sounds like you need a sleeping bag..
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Mar 14, 2018 22:57:27 GMT
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I see vapour blasting or aqua blasting as the 'in cabinet' type where you have a pump circulating a slurry of grit and solvent. I do what I would more term 'wet blasting' where media is dry and is only used the once (and water is added at the nozzle.)
A vapour blaster is a great machine and is on my list for when I find a spare few 1000 but I'm dubious you will make it strip paint from wheels particularly quickly. I would er on the side of bead blasting with a pressure pot type cabinet if you want something that will work efficiently at that. Like I say there's no one process solution to everything.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Mar 10, 2018 12:01:08 GMT
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Oh and compression test it to find out. :-)
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Mar 10, 2018 11:59:53 GMT
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I'm not sure what brakes have to do with overheating? It sounds like it could be a head gasket tho. Both symptoms match that. Is it pressurising the system and blowing the coolant out?
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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now i know how Superchager's work "the principals " but I need to work out the figures 1) how can I work out what the boost would be at set RPM 2) do they have a max RPM can you kill it by running it to fast and how will I know what is to fast 3) volumes could a superchager be to big or to small for a said engine size Well, you could write a book on this and plenty of people have. I suggest 'maximum boost' or something like that for bedtime reading and reference before you even start. No point in starting until you understand it.. 1) Theres a simple way and a hard way. The hard way is more accurate and takes into account all sorts of stuff like volumetric efficency and compressor maps (which you say you don't understand) if you want to get into that you should do some studying and start understanding. I think as it's pretty essential knowledge if you want to be doing things the engineering way.. (ie maths) The simpler way is to guesstimate alot of the data and ignore alot of things and just do a basic calculation of the displacement of the engine vs the displacement of the supercharger.(Assuming it's a roots or screw type that has a fixed displacement, if you have a rotrex centrifugal type it's more complex and a bit more like a turbo..) Lets say the engine ingests 1000cc every revolution and the blower outputs 2000cc every revolution (roughly). If you were to gear them at 1:1 ratio, same size pulley both ends, you would get 1 bar of boost. Double the air in and you get 1 extra 'atmosphere' of pressure which is 1bar gauge pressure or 2 bar absolute.. Yeh lets not get into that.. 2. Yeh ofcourse you could spin it so fast it would explode. You don't want to be getting anywhere near that tho. Its back to the compressor map again. Fixed displacement blowers have one just like a turbo. They work most efficiently in a certian rpm/boost pressure area. If you look at the map you will see what rpm it starts becoming less efficient and if your calculations say you need it to go that fast to make the boost you want you need to find a bigger one.. Its all about keeping it in that efficient zone. 3. As said too small and you will have to turn it too fast. Too big it will go too slow. It will work if it's bigger. Arguably better to er on that side i think but still. The gearing inside your blower off the twincharger doesn't pose any issues in itself, you just have to allow for it in your calcs. As the others have said tho its probably just too small and you would have to run it too fast. Its only designed to feed the engine up to a certian rpm and then it switches off so if you need it to go all the way to max rpm of a simlar displacement engine then you will be demanding alot more air from it and to get that it will be outside the efficency zone we all love so much. Maybe that helps?
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2018 9:32:27 GMT by slater
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Rude? You just don't like the facts
What does MOT history tell you? It had a hole in the sill 3 years ago? It doesn't tell you if the owner wagged it up with newspaper and filler or forked out for a full restoration. It doesnt tell you that it didn't have a hole in the other sill 5 years ago but the owner wagged it up before the test. Its meaningless really there's no substitute for examining a car when you buy it. If your spending big money the owner shouldn't mind you getting it up on the ramps for a good inspection first.. That way you might actually be able to see what condition it's in!
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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After aqua blasting you do have to go over it again with another blasting to purge the water from it. That's not always made totally clear until you research it yourself. Diy is ok but wouldn't suit the scale I would be needing, not quite industrial, but commercial anyway. Mr droop, what acid are you using? What results are you getting with it? I'm no expert but when I have done it I've found it hard to dry a shell before it starts to rust and then requires a dust over again with something fine like soda.. In a cabinet it's less issue as you can use solvent insted of plain water I belive..
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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MOT is a worthless peice of electronic data to keep the police off your back. Nothing more. It guarantees nothing. I can get one on anything for £50quid without even showing the car. Its illegal Yeh but it's happening all the time.
Check your own car (or hire some to do it for you) regularly or don't complain when your paralysed in smash or in clink for driving an unmaintained motor.
Above all stop flogging a dead horse of an argument.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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EBay.. Hes linked it above the video..
I guess it's down to perspective a bit. To me that video looks painfully slow. Imagine having to do the whole car and then how much water that would take etc. Doesn't bare thinking about. Fine for doing a small bit tho i guess!
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Yeh. I think it depends on your situation. I happen to have a room to do it in. The kit isn't really a cost, it's an investment. Its just the media, electric and wear and tare. I think if I took into account time loading, delivery time, fuel, hassle of dealing with other people etc it would work out roughly the same time wise but alot less cost. Plus having my own facilities allows me to be flexible. No need for a massive batch at once that all needs painting at once etc.
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