foxy99
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Posts: 1,446
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Spent about 5 hours working on the car today. Plan was to finish blasting the sills and get some epoxy on the clean(ed) metal but it kept raining so I busied myself on the wing. I repaired the front this time last year and didn't look at the rear but I found out yesterday the lower part has been repaired some time in the past. Whoever did it did a reasonable job and there is no sign of rust where the new bit was welded to old but the guy has concaved it slightly - to lower the welded part I reckon - and it had about a cm of filler on it. I scraped this off today and found that when the wing was dented by a neighbour back in October the vertical stiffner has bent slightly so figured the best way to get it straighten it all again was to separate it from the wing, fix both independantly and put them back together. It would have been easy to separate them as it only involved drilling out 8 spotwelds but when the repair was done before there were a couple of tack welds used so these had to be hacksawed away which took a while. lower rear of wing has been repaired in the past and lots of filler addedfiller removed reveals part of another wing was welded on some time in the pastquite a good repair but rust has appeared under filler etccar reversing into wing has slightly bent vertical support panel as well as putting shallow dent in outer faceI also managed to get two new mid silencers recently to go with the used front pipe/resonator I bought last year. Thinking it might be worth waiting till I find a silencer before I fit the parts. new Walker mid silencers along with used front sectionpart no 6607098 is definitely right for the Royale saloon (and Senator A) but sticker indicates for Senator 2.5 & 3.0 1983 onwards
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Last Edit: May 17, 2012 1:54:59 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Last Edit: May 21, 2012 2:21:18 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,941
Club RR Member Number: 71
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blaster is great for cleaning up corroded fasteners. middle screw here is a rogue one screwed in from outside by someone to hold rubber trim on I'm starting to think a liilte one would be handy even though I use a local company for most of the stuff I need to get done
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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bstardchild It took me a long time to enjoy using mine but, as the results are good, I persevered with it. The drawbacks are, mess, noise, damage to glass, cost of shipping on the media, visors getting frosted and previously - blockages and no grit coming out. However the last two problems no longer exist for me as I use the pot differently now: I used to leave the compressor switched on and after about a minute's blasting, at under 100psi on the outlet guage, (compressor pumps to 150psi) it would kick back in and my grit was constantly blocking so I'd need to turn the pot upside down to loosen it all up or take the hoses off and look for blockages Now once the compressor has pumped up I switch it off and blast away till the pressure on the compressor guage (not the outlet) drops to about 60psi. It works great and I never have any blockages now. Once it drops to that level I stop blasting, switch the compressor back on and go through it again. Its great and while the unit is pumping up you can maybe sweep up the stuff you just used. Evidently, the problem all along was that the compressor being on was over pressurising the pot and compacting the media so much that it wouldn't flow. Strange but apparently true. Another strange thing was that my compressor bought new had the wrong V belt fitted and on top of all the blockages and compressor running constantly I was having to listen to a horrendous screeching noise. The belt eventully sheared the pulley in two! I got a new pulley and belt and no untoward noises at all. What a difference. Even if you never used the system for blasting the car body it is the best thing ever for cleaning rusted nuts & bolts up to unfasten them. Anyway. Back to the Royale..... Strange thing happened tonight: a guy moved into a caravan next to my barn a few months ago and he likes a drink & a puff and often pops in to give me advice etc. Well, tonight, he held me up for an hour or so wanting a lift to top-up the electricity key (we share the same meter) and get some Buckfast tonic wine. After that he showed me round two scrap lawnmowers he has plans for and just as we finished our examination of them I looked on the ground and found my passenger-side chrome headlamp 'eyelash' trim. I lost it about a year ago and somehow it was there about 40' from where I work on my car. Weird back from exile....lower headlamp trim examining it tonight I see it has been stuck on with some sort of sealer beforeAs I'm currently working on the driver's wing and some time ago got a new electric aerial I decided it was time to compare it with the 'original' one. When the replacement one arrived I could see it was more modern the the old one so it might not be a simple swap. In the picture so can see the new one is slightly shorter which isn' t a huge problem but the wiring is different. The old unit only had two wire (blue/red & blue/white). The new one has 3 which means I might need to find a third connector on the loom. I also noticed looking through the folder of receipts/MoTs etc that I got with the car that the aerial was replaced on my car in 1995 so the broken one isn't actually the original at all. The part no is 91138804 according to the old invoice in my folder but the no. in the Parts List is 91072623. old aerial at top. new one at bottom. with wing mount areas side by side body of new one is higher up therefore bracket will need to be adjustedor, put another way, if bottom of unit mounted at same place under wing as old one, mast fixing point would not reach top face of wing fixings which hold mast to top face of wing differ slightly but same basic set upold unit has 2 wires which lead to switch inside motor casingnew one has a different set up
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Last Edit: May 26, 2012 2:11:18 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2012 2:12:31 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Well. No excuses now.... The 0.8mm steel finally arrived, after just over a month. I was a bit dismayed to feel the thickness of the package, when I picked it up from an unfortunate neighbour who took it in from the courier, as it felt very thick but when I unwrapped it tonight was rather surprised to find it was 3 large thin sheets - for less than £10 (plus P&P of course). Looking at the original Ebay transaction tho...it was what I ordered. The last order was 4 pieces amounting to a sheet of A4 roughly, now I have enough to re-skin a set of doors almost. Am off work Wednesday & Thursday so should get the door finished and possibly the wing. large sheet of worrying thickness arrives after a month wait turns out to be 3 sheets of correct 0.8 thickness as it says on label...
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Last Edit: Aug 10, 2012 2:21:58 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Last Edit: Aug 10, 2012 2:32:27 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Aug 10, 2012 10:33:23 GMT
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Supprising lack of rust proofing there, l'd have replaced the whole door bottom and joined it under the moulding.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Aug 12, 2012 23:30:55 GMT
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Rob I agree about the rust proofing. It looks like none reached the bottom 4 or 5 inches of the door skin I also considered doing the whole bottom of the skin and joining under the trim but at the time only had small bits of metal. If this approach fails I can always cut it off and do it that way as I have plentymetal now. Anyway things took a different course this weekend. Back in May I posted some exhaust-part pictures and mentioned I had drawn a blank sourcing a new back box and kept hoping one would turn up so I could change the whole system in one go but..... The front section blew this week so I had to bite the bullet and change things. I had noticed peeking under the car that the twin pipes coming from the back box were looking a bit crusty so was expecting problems here. Also had a bit trouble getting the manifold nuts off and one stud snapped. With the system off I realised just how bad the back box pipes were. There was no other option than to patch them up and I got one nearly finished then my welding wire ran out and I was an hour late for dinner with my gf so that was all I got done on Saturday. Hopefully be back mobile again this week some time. Being under the car made me realise some parts of the front end need body repairs quickly altho the floorpan etc is as good as new. When the stud snapped I kinda though 'that's it might as well scrap it because if I have to take the engine out it will end up a full resto job and I just can't get involved in another one' but if I can get mobile again and get it taxed/MoT'd for another year it gives me time to decide it's fate. not sure what the VL246 number on backbox means but I'd like to find another. It is a Walker part with 'TYP OP1' stamped on it. system doesn't look quite so long in this shot. 2nd hand front section shows how originally there was a silencer on it but one on car was cut and replaced with straight tube a few years agonew mid sections still available at good price. LH one has slight difference in position of rear pipe but should fit finemanifold nuts/studs predictably corroded. one stud snappedsnapped stud still has reasonable amount of length to make removal possible without major dismantling or engine removalheavy corrosion of twin pipes from back boxpaper thin in parts when scale hammered offquick patch up job only option as cannot locate replacementnew parts are same diameter as old. these are tail ends of mid-sections - old and new
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Last Edit: Aug 13, 2012 1:02:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,941
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 13, 2012 10:52:51 GMT
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"Might" have a back box for one of them that is almost new? shipping to scotland might be a oain by pony express
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MK2VR6
Posted a lot
Mk2 Golf GTi 90 Spec
Posts: 3,329
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Aug 13, 2012 11:30:20 GMT
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Wondered what had happened to this - good to see you're keeping going with it !
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Aug 13, 2012 19:27:40 GMT
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That would be do-able I think BC. From time to time I'm finding ones, that look suitable, online (often in German) at around Euros 100 but was a bit unsure about taking chance on one and it not fitting. My back box seems to be about 95cm long and the ones listed are 105cm long which is a significant difference but I might have measured incorrectly. There are also some listed for the later models which have a tailpipe which curls to the side. Might foul the rear valance GSi2000 Yep. Still using it daily, and only doing repairs when I have to sorta thing as The VDP is soaking up all my time, but it kills me to see it looking so scruffy. It's quite tempremental with weather differences. Some days it smooth and idles nice and slow. Other days the idle roars up to about 1200rpm when I stick it in park.
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,941
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 13, 2012 20:29:20 GMT
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That would be do-able I think BC. From time to time I'm finding ones, that look suitable, online (often in German) at around Euros 100 but was a bit unsure about taking chance on one and it not fitting. My back box seems to be about 95cm long and the ones listed are 105cm long which is a significant difference but I might have measured incorrectly. There are also some listed for the later models which have a tailpipe which curls to the side. Might foul the rear valance Yep VL264 it is written in permenant marker and well as a load of Walker stickers with I think other part number references it's 95cm overall length with a straight cut outlet end and no curves in the pipe Used but split easily from the rotten mid-boxes and like I said the outside of the box looks excellent - can't be 100% sure of the inside but it seems sound and doesn't rattle Annoyingly the box came down from Scotland a few weeks back!! So I reckon pony express it back up again
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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BC No way. That's nuts especially having the same magic marker writing on it . I guess I should snap it up as it they won't come along often. I'll PM you. I'm actually not long back from the garage after spending half an hour or so doing a bit of a sleeve on the second pipe and inspecting the manifold studs to order new ones. The backbox is actually very solid apart from the front pipes so things were looking ok but....... With the first pipe I didn't want to hammer or shake things, to separate the sections, before the lacy pipe was re-enforced and I think the heat from the welding helped loosen things up as they came apart fine. So, tonight I expected the same from the second pipe but they just won't separate and I'm thinking the weld from the new metal might have penetrated through to the other pipe inside. Unlikely but you never know. If so I'll need to waste valuable hours separating them tomorrow somehow. I don't think it's rust as the pipe which came out the first side was was pretty clean. I assembled them with Gun Gum the last time they were apart but I doubt that would bond them so tight. As for the exhaust studs and nuts. I noticed they seemed to be of different lengths but didn't pay much attention to it and was about to order some M10 x 1.50 ones from Ebay but looking at the parts list tonight it shows they are supposed to be different lengths and they are 8mm, and screws not studs I measured again tonight and they are definitely M10 so the parts book description is apparently wrong or they changed to M10 later in production. Who knows... Also had a look at my file and it shows - 25/11/98....a whole new exhaust system and one exhaust stud was replaced by Fox Garage Ltd Bisley. The part no's for the exhaust bits are shown as NSI and the stud is 11082162 (M10 x 35)
- 15/12/09.... A. Graham Harper of Glasgow 'cut old silencer out and weld made up exhaust piping'. Yours for £132.18 sir
- 18/06/10.... the same garage replaced N/S mid silencer with a Walker 6607908. I wondered tonight why the part I was trying to get out was in such good nick. It's only 2 years old.
So it looks like the whole system was replaced 14 years ago then then the front silencer rotted then one of the mid ones so the back box has actually lasted pretty well! I did patch up the other mid silencer to get it through the last MOT. I wondered why they were different makes. It's not a Walker. Manufacturer seems to be 'K' parts list show old 8mm exhaust to manifold fittings of different lengthspicture shows shorter ones go on front manifold
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2012 2:04:41 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,941
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 14, 2012 11:46:32 GMT
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BC No way. That's nuts especially having the same magic marker writing on it . I guess I should snap it up as it they won't come along often. I'll PM you. No need for a PM but if you can find anyone who can get it closer to you from the gathering I'll bring it in the Monza or tow car and send it on it's way If not I can put it on a carrier (UPS) but it'll be a few quid guessing £25.... Oh and I don't want anything for it - it came free on a car that I'm splitting for parts I need and I'm after as much as possible going to people that can make use of it
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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That's very kind of you BC Ok. Its been a long day and I'm just home but I got the silencer done. Started off with a hour and a half walk to the barn via Halfords for gasless welding wire, 2 exhaust clamps and a wire brush....£23 nearly the same price as carriage on BC's back box Spent the best part of the afternoon separating the silencer from the mid pipe (am convinced the Holts Gun Gum sealed it solid as it wasn't weld penetration) and then finished sleeving both pipes plus fitted/unfitted the system to the car to make sure it sat properly as I was worried the angle of the pipes might have been messed up with all the shaking hammering and welding. Everything looks ok and new manifold studs are ordered so tomorrow's job will be getting the old one(s) out. Having a closer look at the old pipes I noticed the the supposed 'Walker' N/S mid silencer a couple of years ago has no Walker markings on it. It is this one that is 'K' brand but more interestingly it has VL375M stamped on it which is remarkably similar to the type of number felt tipped onto mine & BC's back boxes. not a great pic or pretty welds but 14yr old backbox now ready for more serviceK might be the maker. VL375M similar to VL246 felt-tipped on backbox
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2012 1:59:21 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Aug 15, 2012 13:20:25 GMT
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Ok. Well, some new manifold studs & nuts which I ordered late on Monday night arrived about half an hour ago so we could be back in business today. Will probably waste good time looking for my M10 x 1.50 tap tho. I suspect the threads in the manifold won't be in great nick as I noticed some smearing on the stud which came out. Got to prepare for the worst which could be four snapped studs. It might be safer just to focus on replacing the one which came out and removing the snapped one. On the plus side I borrowed a bike last night from a guy that lives in a caravan next to the barn so the journey in cut down to about half hour new manifold fittings for less than £10 from the ever reliable Spalding Fasteners PS BC Excuse my ignorance but where is The Gathering?
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2012 14:25:40 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,941
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 15, 2012 22:34:50 GMT
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PS BC Excuse my ignorance but where is The Gathering? www.retroridesgathering.com/I've already asked on your behalf in pony express If we don't have any takers - I'll courier it if you cover the cost
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,446
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Hi again BC. Thanks for the link. Might need to hang fire on the back box just now. Car is up and running again but my mojo is down Spent hours trying to get that stud out with nuts locked together them nuts welded to it and it just won't budge so stuck the exhaust on but it's blowing at the manifold I'm sure and messing up the idle. It was 11 at night when I finished working outside, soaked, filthy and disappointed. Another thing is the new exhaust studs, despite being 52mm are not right as there is very little protruding to get the nut on. There are some longer ones on Ebay but looks like the parts book shows screws for a reason....you need all that thread. With the studs I bought a lot of the length is lost at the top where it goes into the manifold leaving a shortish stubb to get the exhaust clamp over. Also had time to examine a huge hole in the chassis leg. Not really sure what to do now but will look over it all again in daylight. no room for a tap wrench to clean out thread but small spanner worked ok locking two nuts together on snapped stud wouldn't budge itlarge hole in O/S chassis leg. access to it is good with exhaust offother side much better
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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pants. do the studs go into blind holes?
had exact same issue on my landy, but the one that wouldnt come out was open at the back so i drilled it out and fitted a bolt from behind, tacked on with the hot stick to stop it spinning.
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