An actual Idiots guide to rollering with Rustoleum

[bosrasham]

hi I'm a new one to this kinda roller painting ,

the thing is I'm stuck ,ive rolled 1 coat of paint on,then sanded back using 500 or 400 grin wet n dry paper,then repeated this ,the thing is i cant seem to get rid of the orange peel look?

any help would be greayful at this stage

thank you

[steveo3002]

did you sand until all the peel was gone?

maybe try a bit more spirit or a differant roller

[nomad]

No idea how I've not found this in the past - now remedied - bookmarked - and maybe putting some of the good advice into practice in the next couple of weeks

Dec 28, 2011 10:17:09 GMT morns said:

... if you start on that "it cant look any worse" basis you will be well pleased with the results!

^ wise words

 Thanks for taking the time to do the writeup!

[Smiler]

I'm looking forward to trying this out on one of the Scimitars.

[baggabones]

Has anyone successfully used Jawel synthetic paint with a roller? As an alternative to Rustoleum?

[craig1010cc]

Apr 16, 2015 15:53:43 GMT bosrasham said:

hi I'm a new one to this kinda roller painting ,

the thing is I'm stuck ,ive rolled 1 coat of paint on,then sanded back using 500 or 400 grin wet n dry paper,then repeated this ,the thing is i cant seem to get rid of the orange peel look?

any help would be greayful at this stage

thank you

Your best bet is to do 2 coats, then flat back until smooth (prob with 600 grit) then 2 more costs and flat smooth with 1200 grit, then cut and polish up should see you with smooth finish

[SmokeEm]

when I get a merc barge soon, I am going to roller it with blackboard paint exactly as I used to back in the 80's - Great Matt black finish, with no peel effect. Entire car for about £20

[nas80]

I have done this myself and the result was outstanding if i may say so myself.

lots of prep which is always important..

three coats,
colour sand it,
another three coats,
colour sand,
then another 3 coats
and then colour sand.
another 3 coats
colour sand
buff using a machine.

would i do it again? NO!!!! its a lot faster and probably a lot less effort just investing in the tools you need to do with a spray gun.

anyway

[mikeymk]

Mine needs paint on one side. I have some 2-pack left from the respray in '07, should be okay but i probably only have a couple of coats if that, especially as one panel is a complete door so the inside of that will have to be a close rattle can match anyway. It's metallic.
My plan is a bit different from the thread then, but the same principal.

1) Spray it all up in a close match of rattle can acrylic.
2) Roller the 2-pack on so the car is all the same shade.
3) Glaze it with a fair few coats of clearcoat.
4) Flat back so the clearcoat is smooth and buff it up.

Couple of things then..
Is it okay putting 2K between acrylic coats?! Does one go over another but not vice-versa? Time gaps?
Am i best using rattle cans of laquer, or is there a product i can roll-on?
What is my best course of action here?

All input welcome as always, cheers.

[steveo3002]

May 7, 2015 2:31:08 GMT mikeymk said:

Mine needs paint on one side. I have some 2-pack left from the respray in '07, should be okay but i probably only have a couple of coats if that, especially as one panel is a complete door so the inside of that will have to be a close rattle can match anyway. It's metallic.
My plan is a bit different from the thread then, but the same principal.

1) Spray it all up in a close match of rattle can acrylic.
2) Roller the 2-pack on so the car is all the same shade.
3) Glaze it with a fair few coats of clearcoat.
4) Flat back so the clearcoat is smooth and buff it up.

Couple of things then..
Is it okay putting 2K between acrylic coats?! Does one go over another but not vice-versa? Time gaps?
Am i best using rattle cans of laquer, or is there a product i can roll-on?
What is my best course of action here?

All input welcome as always, cheers.

sounds like a disaster wating to happen tbh

stick with tried and tested metods and stick with one type of paint system

[MrSpeedy]

Just to add my 2 pence worth, if you don't mind.


A little tip for the rollering, to reduce the amount of 'orange peel' or 'stippling' you get, you can 'lay off' the paint with a fine bristled brush after laying the paint on with the roller. It takes a bit of practice, but will cut down the amount of flatting back you need to do.

I painted my parents narrowboat last year, and can confirm it's a lot of hard work.

I'm also just finishing off painting the new cab on our Ford 400e pickup. This is all done by coach painting, using nothing more than a 2" brush.

2 coats of primer and 3 of gloss (both oil based enamel) and sanded down in between all coats bar for the last coat which just had a fine 'Scotchbrite' before applying

[taurus]

May 8, 2015 15:57:55 GMT MrSpeedy said:

Just to add my 2 pence worth, if you don't mind.


A little tip for the rollering, to reduce the amount of 'orange peel' or 'stippling' you get, you can 'lay off' the paint with a fine bristled brush after laying the paint on with the roller. It takes a bit of practice, but will cut down the amount of flatting back you need to do.

I painted my parents narrowboat last year, and can confirm it's a lot of hard work.

I'm also just finishing off painting the new cab on our Ford 400e pickup. This is all done by coach painting, using nothing more than a 2" brush.

2 coats of primer and 3 of gloss (both oil based enamel) and sanded down in between all coats bar for the last coat which just had a fine 'Scotchbrite' before applying

I have seen this done and been amazed at the results, but I've never got anywhere close to that level of perfection when I've tried it. Do you need a special kind of brush? Or is it just that I'm not doing it right. Whenever I've tried it I always end up with brushmarks in the finish which I can't sand out.

[steveo3002]

yeah can you name some good brushes please

[MrSpeedy]

I always use natural bristle. Personally I just can't get on with synthetic ones.

If you're looking around the 10 quid mark you're about right. You want something around 2" wide and the end of the bristles should feather out more finely than the bristles themselves.

Lay the paint on in horizontal strokes, keeping an even thickness and avoid ' dry ' patches. Don't over work the paint.
Then lay the paint off with vertical strokes, in steady smooth motion and with minimal pressure. You not wanting to move the paint, but to just smooth out the brush marks from putting it on

[nomad]

It's time to add my name to the list of folk who owe public thanks / drinks&burgers @ RRG / IOUs to the good folk who have made this idiots guide suitable for idiots non-painters like myself

My roof & front end has been sprayed in stages over the last couple of years.
Doors (both sides) were prepped and given one coat of 2-pack, rollered today with no-expense-spared foam roller from out local pound shop (£2.99 and comes with roller tray)
Very impressed so far, nice & shiney, easy, quick.
Colour on the doors looks a bit light now but should darken down a bit over the next few days

Downsides :
I was guessing at the ratio for mixing paint & hardner as I didn't have the makers name or spec sheet. Not ideal!
I got lots of little bubbles when I rollered the paint, if I rollered again after a few minutes it flattened nicely. If left too long I got threads/cobwebs on the roller

Questions :
I used a wide (9" ?) sponge foam roller - is this best or do the fabric rollers work better?

Tips :
Remove door handles if possible, it's much easier to work on a flat surface.
Leave keyholes in place for instant colour-coding
Disposable shot glasses/picnic glasses from the pound shop make decent budget measuring / mixing cups




Many thanks for the inspiration!

[mikeymk]

May 7, 2015 9:19:03 GMT steveo3002 said:

May 7, 2015 2:31:08 GMT mikeymk said:

Mine needs paint on one side. I have some 2-pack left from the respray in '07, should be okay but i probably only have a couple of coats if that, especially as one panel is a complete door so the inside of that will have to be a close rattle can match anyway. It's metallic.
My plan is a bit different from the thread then, but the same principal.

1) Spray it all up in a close match of rattle can acrylic.
2) Roller the 2-pack on so the car is all the same shade.
3) Glaze it with a fair few coats of clearcoat.
4) Flat back so the clearcoat is smooth and buff it up.

Couple of things then..
Is it okay putting 2K between acrylic coats?! Does one go over another but not vice-versa? Time gaps?
Am i best using rattle cans of laquer, or is there a product i can roll-on?
What is my best course of action here?

All input welcome as always, cheers.

sounds like a disaster wating to happen tbh

stick with tried and tested metods and stick with one type of paint system

Full respray isn't happening. So it's a thin layer which probably won't cover the primer properly, or leaving rattle-canned areas mis-matched without going over them with the correct shade.

Neither of those options are gonna be great either, so i don't see what i have to lose.

[craig1010cc]

What about getting some 2 pack rattle cans mixed up?

Either way, I would test out your method on a scrap panel and see if it reacts plus you can refine the ratios of hardener and thinners needed

[MrSpeedy]

^^Is it April 1st?

[steveo3002]

mikey is that metalic you plan to roller on?

[sarkie83]

Reading about this - the main thing that puts me off is that trying to overpaint enamel in future with anything (acrylic,cellulose,etc...)sounds like you have to go totally back to bare metal first otherwise it'll react..