Mk1 Mini 1275 A+ Conversion

[brettsri]

oh and the 850 is shagged, took the head of and its got no compression because the bores are majorly oval shaped. Pistons are all over the place in there!

[pantera2075]

Here's the 20 odd years experience answer:

Yes, you will need to grind back the webbing on the gearbox to get the crank to rotate - but otherwise there is no difference in mounting.

There is no difference in the 850 clutch to the 1275GT one - Later verto one is a little bit stronger

You WILL need extra/better engine mounts.

The magic wand gearchange is also known as the pudding stirrer for good reason. Change the detent spring and ball bearing that goes in next to the change on the box while you are at it.

Your diff will be ok but a bit low geared - expect it to blow soon if it is original and not cross pinned.

The MG1275 engine is the most powerful NA a-series produced as standard. They have a cracking camshaft as standard, reasonably big valves etc.
Should be 69-75bhp - in a mini shell, extremely lively. It should have an HIF44 carb - or 1 3/4" on an alloy manifold with an alloy rocker cover.

You will need a metro bottom rad hose or a mod to the engine head because the metro heater takeoff is different.

You need to upgrade the radiator.

Put front discs on it - but don't bother with original cooper or "s" items.

Get neg camber front arms and sticky front tyres. - Yoko A008s are a good starting point.

Think i've got most points there - if you need any more input, ask away.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Wouldn't it be easier to source a nice early A series and keep it semi original?

[brettsri]

Mar 30, 2012 22:23:47 GMT pantera2075 said:

Here's the 20 odd years experience answer:

Yes, you will need to grind back the webbing on the gearbox to get the crank to rotate - but otherwise there is no difference in mounting.

There is no difference in the 850 clutch to the 1275GT one - Later verto one is a little bit stronger

You WILL need extra/better engine mounts.

The magic wand gearchange is also known as the pudding stirrer for good reason. Change the detent spring and ball bearing that goes in next to the change on the box while you are at it.

Your diff will be ok but a bit low geared - expect it to blow soon if it is original and not cross pinned.

The MG1275 engine is the most powerful NA a-series produced as standard. They have a cracking camshaft as standard, reasonably big valves etc.
Should be 69-75bhp - in a mini shell, extremely lively. It should have an HIF44 carb - or 1 3/4" on an alloy manifold with an alloy rocker cover.

You will need a metro bottom rad hose or a mod to the engine head because the metro heater takeoff is different.

You need to upgrade the radiator.

Put front discs on it - but don't bother with original cooper or "s" items.

Get neg camber front arms and sticky front tyres. - Yoko A008s are a good starting point.

Think i've got most points there - if you need any more input, ask away.

This is superb, thanks! I did wonder about the crank rotating once we have sorted this drive gear out on the crank.

box is almost certainly original and so i will find out about the pins you mention

Will replace the detent spring and ball bearing on it too while I'm at it.

don't have a rad, how much difference in size is there? I'm always sceptical of the need for rad changes in engine conversions as my experience shows me it is only occasionally nessecary. Redtop Novas will spend a morning on track on a 1.3 rad with no problems at all, for example.

As for sourcing another engine, possibly but then I'll be left with a 1275 in bits!

[chairchild]

there's such a wide variety of "standard" rads that were fitted, and some are FAR better than others! I'd hazzard a guess that yours still has the original radiator, with 2 small cores (not to be confused with the uprated 2 core, as these have FAR larger cores!) Normal 1275 fitment is 3 small cores.