Back working on the "Snotrod"

[mr]

got home yesterday and for a change no one had been rushed to hospital,broken something or was needing to be taken somewhere as soon as i got home.....made a nice change.
even better was i eventually made my way to the nut and bolt place ive been trying to get to for months.
"universal fasteners" in Gravesend. very helpfull,cheap as chips and they have every type of nut and bolt regardless of thread type etc
£4 later and i was nut'd right up:)
copper coated steels for the manifold,brass for the turbo and copper covered steel for the inlet manifold.
got 4 small brass ones for the bypass pipe too but dodnt know if they're the righjt ones as i didnt have time to check.
the flexi pipe arrived yesterday too,why its called flexi pipe i have no idea at all:mad: i got a 12" long section and it bent aorund about an inch? flexi ..yeah ,errr .not!! :mad::mad::mad:. as usual a 5 minute job ended up with me on the floor under the car using my arms ,feet ,face and knees to try and suport the different exhaust sections while trying to get the ends to all slot into eachother. took about and hour of swearing and fighting with it but after turning the rear exhaust hanger around (tried to undo it but the nuts rusted so the lot just turned round on teh rea arm) it almost fitted together.
by sliding the different sections in and out of eachother a bit at a time like a rubiks puzzle i eventually pulled it enough to scrape the centre box and front section ends together. soon as they overlapped it located itself inside the inner part. job done.
looks pretty tidy too but ill need a support bracket though which ill make at work next week.
need 2 u clamps and thatll be finished:)
i started swapping the nuts over and will try to get the rest done tonight if i can get to the garage.
2 bolts on the oil pipe return,3 on the bypass pipe (already have them )2 clamps,a can of paint and connect the pump wire and i should be done:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
new battery is on the floor next to the car but the old one will do for now....plus i need terminal convertors to use it:rolleyes:
low res pics as usual.......

[mr]

had a mad burst on the old girl last night
fitted copper coated steel nuts onto the crossover pipes joint,lucky as on nut was loose:eek:.poxy job as you need fingers like E.T to hold a spanner on the rear nut while spannering the bottom one quarter of a turn at a time thanks to the narrow gap there.
fuel pump wiring was extended into the spare wheel well and run through a short length of hose for protection from the elements. i fired a load of silicon into the hose for good measure too. all connected up now though.
crude heat shield should be enough to keep tail pipe heat away from the pump too.
rear seat in now empty except the atari and tv screen but theyll be out soon as they're just surplus weight.
front exhaust clamp was turned around instead of cut just so i didnt get sparks all round the cluttered garage.
found my custom airbrushed "limey" air box too. a good mate painted it for me but obviously thats now surplus.
heres a pic of where ive had to work ,14" inches of clearance. seems even less when your trying to swap a sump over without removing the engine from the bay:rolleyes::rolleyes:
rear flexi has been glooped and is clamped down too.
rear window has been de-club stickered,20 years of ownereships meant lots of stickers and some from sites/clubs that have folded. rear bespoke rs sticker looks nice though:D
ive got a sample bolt from the turbo oil return flange too,ill try to get me a pair of matching shorter bolts on the way home.
took ages to get the old girl back off the ramps but its done now and if I'm honest, i'd forgotten just how low she sits:cool::cool: just from being dropped onto the garage floor the chassis rails are 5". guess that'll drop when i move too:D:D
anyway,heres a pic bomb!!





















fitted the rear window sticker and got to the "nut's -n-bolts" bloke yesterday after work.
oil return bolts swapped over for the correct ones so the oil weep should be gone.
connected up the old girl and hit all the switches.....no leaks.......but the fuel pump wasnt on?
co i checked the fuses and wiring etc but couldnt find anything?
voltmeter came out and i had 12v at the fuse???
i tried a few more turns and there was just enough fuel in teh bowl to get her into life for a second or two.
what a roar.....................
so off to the boot i go and realise that some wally hadnt connected the fuel pump earth to the neg on the battery.
connected it and set the fuel reg at 2. no leaks and all looked good but there just wasnt enough zap left in the battery so that was the end of play time.
will charge the battery today on a fast charge and try again,the battery is shot so the fast charge is ok. new nattery is just waiting for some round to flat converters.don't want to knacker it while setting stuff up.
and where am i at now?


BLEEDIN FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!

there are a couple of niggly bits but two will be done during mot and one can be done anywhere.
still need n/s door trim but all the other stuff has been sorted
only took 19 months

exhaust wrap is on its way but ill do that as and when

new sticker


thanks matt,
spent the day doing family visits but nicked a few mins this evening.
hylomar'd the suspect joint and the wrap arrived so the exhaust was heat wrapped. got paul on the misfire case too ........recons timing needs retarding 10 degrees but ive got it running so ill let the grown ups do the real setting up.
after a quick look over i noticed the front box was at an angle and with less than 5" of ground clearance i thought id better level it off. went to undo the first clamp bolt and the "midnight mechanic" had struck:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: maybe i missed an exhaust clamp when doing the tighten up the zorst thing:o.....................muppet
anyway,i re-aligned it and its looking better and tighter too. may have been why the exhaust note was a tad motor bik'ish
anyway,heres a couple of shots to show that you don't need a double garage amnd snap on tool chest to play "classic fords"











terminals arrived so i started getting them ready,fitted a few more "sharp as hell" ties on the exhaust wrap
and looked at fabricating a simple heat sheild for the air filter.
bought a spare fuel filter too.........seem to get through plenty of them
stickers arrived for the non fog/driving lights too,obviously ford never fitted lights like these though

[Deleted]

like this old granny and your old school V6 instead of the typical cossy lump be it 4 or 6 pot make's a nice change , and as you say suprising what you can do in a shoebox !!!

[mr]

little update
booked the car in for setting up so started getting the banger ready.
fired up first poke and with an adjustment to the throttle idle screw it was running constantly.
that said, we had issues:mad:
obviously there was gonna be smoke as any spilt fulid on rapidly becoming hot parts were gonna get burned off but jesus,...........
it all went wrong real fast.
within minutes I became like Red Adare,we had oil weeping from the turbo oil feed on top of the turbo,it was dripping out the ebay bought t piece that screws into the block and if that wasnt enough to really get me angry it started weeping out from the o/s rocker cover too!!!!!!!!!:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
just for the record here,the 99p shop sells a snide version of vanish stain mouse. it gets oil off car parts and also hands really well too. just spray on and leave.
a quick call to som,e good mates in our granada club later and ive got a full set of rocker covers at the ready. turned out that amongst my granada parts hanging off ever drywall screw in the garage I had a spare new gasket. a smear of silicon and then the gasket was on. rocker refitted and all seemed ok. for some unknown reason if you look at the rocker cover holes, theres a hole missing on my engine??theres a hole on the rocker cover and also one in teh gasket but its not there on the cylinder head? seems stupid to me.
I pfte (or however it spelt) taped the oil feed into place and tightend the t piece and tried again.
rocker was ok and teh oil feed to tubby was good. still weeping from the t piece. ill pfte that during the week. the exhaust wrap was smoking a bit but once all the smokings finished I'm hoping things will calm down a bit.
not interesting at all but heres my sunday afternoon.............









I also found the 2.9 rocker bars too so once its all sorted ill get them on as well. aparently they have a wider surface area which I'm told is worth swapping over for. just need to swap the pedastals too as well ive been informed.doesnt mean a great deal to me but ill work that out when I get there

next day

ages spent under the oily banger....however we now have no leaks......yet anyway.got it running smooth too once it was warmed up as per vid. Sound ok in the flesh,just cameraphone sound quality is rubbish and its in the garage. Only having one silencer doesnt help much either.

VID LINK!!!



This eventually arrived from china or somewhere like that,once unfolded it was huge which is handy when your as useless at cutting straight lines as I am. really sticky and went on very well.....guese the true test will be when the cars running,wouldnt be suprised if it all fell back off:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
shame it didnt come in black though....still it should help protect the paint job Barney Sands in Ebbsfleet did for me a few years ago,still looks fresh now so id hate it to be heat stained.

[mr]

next job is to make sure the throttle spring stays put,it came off the other day and ill be damned if i can work out which way its meant to be. so ill slid a washer over the end and tap a hing pin in to keep it there

[mr]

still weeping oil but taken to the dyno regardless.
i was very suprised the established tuners i went to said theyd never seen my cars set up before ? it was common on rover v8's and J sports cars too.maybe because its not tunable they werent so popular???
anyway i was there so they strapped her down.
turns out the cars not boosting and it looks like the wastegate is jammed open so all my precious boost is going straight into the front pipe

despite the boost failure the old mill still managed a respectable (for its age) 119 bhp and 138 lbs of torque. the bloke there said the timing and fuelling should be fine for the set up once the boost is sorted tho.
anyone know anything about 80's janspeed conversions or if i can get the wastegate out or even replace it??? maybe fit a modern style one???

anyway ,heres "snotty" on the rollers

[sowen]

At least you didn't smoke the place out!



When I took mine to the rolling road, all the guys there were very interested in my setup, only the older boys remembered when carbed turbo cars were still around.

If it has a normal turbo like most vehicles it will have a pressure fed actuator controlling the wastegate, have a look at that first.

[Sinky]

No fail. Just a wee set back.
Looking good tho. Good luck!

[mr]

the wastegate is mounted on the exhaust manifold and theres a feed from the hard pipe that goes between the turbo and the inlet manifold.
I'm guessing the flying saucer thing it the wastegategate and behind it theres a flap or similar and its just rusted on place. I'm guessing i can simply unbolt it from the manifold.............???theres a massive nut so I'm optimistic. i just hope its a simple job amd doesnt need the whole lot taking iff the car to do it

[countvauxalot]

Depends if its the wastgate valve and arm assembly that's seized or if its the actuator it's self (it has a spring and diagram inside it) with the problem.

I suspect it's the flap seized if its stuck open.

[mr]

thanks mate,don't suppose you know if i can access it by removing the watsegate from the front??ive never seen isnside any of it. i can see the spring thrpough the holes in the rear of it but thats about all.

[countvauxalot]

Is it internally or externally wastegated? As i initially thought it ming be internally gated. Any pics?

[mr]

this is it ,off the car

[spirit9]

What a crazy set up! I would start by undoing the small bolts on the top of the wastegate, beneath this there will be a spring, a diaphragm and a poppet valve. As the pressure source is above the diaphragm the boost will open the valve outwards in to the manifold rather that the more usual lifting the valve upwards off its seat, but either way its the poppet valve that makes and breaks the seal so check if this is seized or damaged.

[mr]

thanks mate,will prob need to remove the manifold to get to those then. think theres 3 or 4 crew head bolts on the wastegate casing. is it a repairable diaphram or will i need to source a new one? don't suppose you know where sells them too??

[fuel]

I think even if the wastegate was stuck open it should still be boosting somewhat - that wastegate bypass pipe is far too small to be able to bypass all the exhaust gasses and most of it will still be going through the turbine housing. I would check to see if the turbo spins well in the housing.

[mr]

ill have the carb off tomorrow and have a mate look while i turn the car over. hopefully we'll get the wastgate off too
dyno print outs below,shows no boost at all?

[fuel]

have you got an actual boost gauge hooked up to verify? how did they measure boost in the system?

[spirit9]

As mentioned by others I am surprised that there is no boost at all, the dump pipe off the wastegate is tiny, so I would expect to see at least a few psi. I would check that the bearings aren't seized, so check that you can freely move the wheels also I don't know how difficult this will be for you to check but I have seen the turbine wheel fracture off the shaft so even though both wheels are there they are not connected via the shaft usually though there will be a lot of smoke if this happens. If it is the wastegate diaphragm there are 2 main types, either a rim seal or a gasket bolt seal, yours will be the gasket type, as in the diaphragm doubles as a gasket and is clamped between the hat and the main body with the bolts pasing through it, but I have to say all the diaphragm types that I am aware of are a lot deeper than what I would imagine is within your wastegate. I think probably the best option would be to buy a cheap generic wastegate and replace what you have, if you take this route it would be worth fabricating a screamer or at least a larger dump pipe than what you have.

[darrenh]

line on the graph says gauge pressure, so zero on the graph is actually atmospheric pressure. normally aspirated road engines never reach atmospheric pressure (not even at wide open throttle and maximum cylinder filling) but your engine has reached zero at 4750, ergo the turbine must be pumping some air into the engine, just not enough to boost positively