adam73bgt
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Jan 25, 2014 22:28:55 GMT
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Thing to watch out for with the Sebring kit is the fit of the front wings. Everywhere on the internet you read about how bad most kits are. This guy got them made in steel linkThose steel ones look good but a bit pricey! Yeah there doesn't seem to be much good news out there about the fit of the sebring kits at all, though it seems you can get just the flares in fibreglass so it might be easier to just graft those onto exisiting wings than fit the whole fibreglass wings themselves
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Jan 25, 2014 23:36:11 GMT
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Managed to get a bit of work done to the car today, ever since I fitted the new wheels I've been getting some rubbing of tyre on arch at the back to some degree. It's gotten better to the point where it rarely rubs if its just me in the car, but if I'm carrying a passenger or some luggage I get rubbing on corners. So a mate came round with an arch roller to see if we could improve things It turned out to be a bit of job in the end, the drivers side rear arch had already split before from where I tried to pull it out and it would seem there were at least a couple different panels on there, plenty of work with a hammer and a bit of work with the roller got the inner lip folded up and out of the way of the tyre though On the passenger side, the rear wing was much newer and seemed to all be one panel, so the hammer was used a bit initially to start the lip folding then the roller could be used to fold it the rest of the way Doing this has also had the effect of flaring both the arches out a bit which helps with the clearance to the tyres, the passenger side looks good but the drivers side had a fair bit of filler flake off and is a bit tatty, so I may go over the crack in the wing with a bit of filler and paint just to neaten it up. The car's bodywork isn't its strong point anyway so I'm not bothered if its not overly pretty for the time being Also while sheltering from a sudden hailstorm the wet footwell problem appeared again, I decided to check the scuttle panel vent and sure enough there was a little puddle in there which is no doubt a result of a blocked drain causing the water to find other ways out, so I'm gonna have to get underneath and see whats up with the drain.. oh joy..
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Just get some wire and see of you can poke it through from the top first, before you go grovelling around underneath.
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Jan 26, 2014 11:38:11 GMT
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I spent a long time looking at sebring kits and fitment and eventually decided against it due to so many bad fitments and poor quality kits. The work required would also have set me back by a year on my build and would have left the car weaker in my opinion, if you take the approach of cutting out the rear wings and replacing with GRP. Golf rear arches can fit, I did a trial fit on my build thread.
Looking good though, when do you plan to fit the new dampers? I'll be interested to know how you find them compared to the old lever arms.
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Jan 26, 2014 11:47:40 GMT
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I spent a long time looking at sebring kits and fitment and eventually decided against it due to so many bad fitments and poor quality kits. The work required would also have set me back by a year on my build and would have left the car weaker in my opinion, if you take the approach of cutting out the rear wings and replacing with GRP. Golf rear arches can fit, I did a trial fit on my build thread.
Looking good though, when do you plan to fit the new dampers? I'll be interested to know how you find them compared to the old lever arms.
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gn3dr
Part of things
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Jan 26, 2014 11:57:23 GMT
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If I go Sebring with mine I'll be doing the arches in steel. Alternatively for something different and a bit more subtle, check out the arches on this one from Berlin Classic Wheels I'm toying with trying that also.
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Jan 26, 2014 12:01:33 GMT
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They look far more subtle Seems my phone did a double post!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Jan 26, 2014 15:18:30 GMT
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I spent a long time looking at sebring kits and fitment and eventually decided against it due to so many bad fitments and poor quality kits. The work required would also have set me back by a year on my build and would have left the car weaker in my opinion, if you take the approach of cutting out the rear wings and replacing with GRP. Golf rear arches can fit, I did a trial fit on my build thread. Looking good though, when do you plan to fit the new dampers? I'll be interested to know how you find them compared to the old lever arms. Mmm there do seem to be a few ways of doing the rear wings, hopefully I'd be able to find one that uses a decent amount of steel/doesn't weaken the shell too much, though the shell is a bit over engineered really to begin with. I've seen some other styles of wide arches, particularly ones used by some of the racers in the US look cool, but price and shipping would be a factor, plus they do look pretty huge Erm hopefully I'll be looking to get the dampers on in the next couple of weeks or so, just need to get a few days where I don't need the car for work, I'll be sure to give a review of them compared to the lever arms once I get them on though
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Jan 26, 2014 15:24:04 GMT
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If I go Sebring with mine I'll be doing the arches in steel. Alternatively for something different and a bit more subtle, check out the arches on this one from Berlin Classic Wheels I'm toying with trying that also. Those do look good, shall have to have a look at them myself
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
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1973 MGB GT- A little rust 30/08Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Jan 26, 2014 19:51:06 GMT
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The scuttle drain is just under the heater box shelf in the engine bay on the drivers side.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Jan 26, 2014 20:32:36 GMT
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The scuttle drain is just under the heater box shelf in the engine bay on the drivers side. I did think to myself earlier it probably wouldnt be right under the car I'll have a feel around for it from the engine bay then Managed to find a wire coat hanger so I'll be poking that down the drain hole from the top, getting a wet left foot on hard cornering is getting a bit annoying
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sonus
Europe
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Regarding the rubbing; If it's mainly on one side it might be that your rear axle is one of those that were welded in the "knocked out of alignment" jigs at the factory. Can't remember how much these axles are out, but I think they are offset som 1/2" to one side.
Regarding flares; Golf MK1 fender flares have been used to good success, however you'll have to convert to round rear arches. And if fitted too low the car will look as if riding o stilts.
Escort MK1 bubble arches might also look good if fitted correctly.
IMO the Sebring fenders look good in the back, but I find them too large at the front leaving too much air around the tires.
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Jan 27, 2014 13:29:58 GMT
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What size of wheels are you looking to fit, I considered Sebring kits and even rivet on fiberglass arches with mine, I had a pair on 15x9, -5 offset Rotas on the back and bought a set of 95mm ranger bob arches from on here and the wheels were lost in them, at that stage I sold the 15x9's and have settled on 15x8's all round with stretched 195 tyres, with the rear flanges rolled and a panhard rod to minimise sideways movement I wont need any arches, Ive attach a few pics showing how the 8's look front and back, it still needs lowered but as you can see any aftermarket arches are going to need a pretty wide set of wheels to fill them! This pic has the 9's at the back so ignore that: 15x8's all round
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72 MGB GT 88 Daimler Double Six 89 Rover Mini 91 Nissan Figaro 95 Lotus Esprit S4S 18 Discovery
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adam73bgt
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Jan 27, 2014 13:37:33 GMT
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Regarding the rubbing; If it's mainly on one side it might be that your rear axle is one of those that were welded in the "knocked out of alignment" jigs at the factory. Can't remember how much these axles are out, but I think they are offset som 1/2" to one side. Regarding flares; Golf MK1 fender flares have been used to good success, however you'll have to convert to round rear arches. And if fitted too low the car will look as if riding o stilts. Escort MK1 bubble arches might also look good if fitted correctly. IMO the Sebring fenders look good in the back, but I find them too large at the front leaving too much air around the tires. Aye, I do remember feeling a bit of a difference in arch gap on one side over the other, and in the long term I'd like to look into fitting a panhard rod to keep things a bit more square at the back Yeah I'd like something a bit wider but the car needs to keep the low stance, I see too many sebring MGB's which are way up in the air and they look silly to me Also I know what you mean about the front arches, careful wheel choice is going to be needed to ensure the arches are filled
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adam73bgt
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Jan 27, 2014 13:42:30 GMT
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What size of wheels are you looking to fit, I considered Sebring kits and even rivet on fiberglass arches with mine, I had a pair on 15x9, -5 offset Rotas on the back and bought a set of 95mm ranger bob arches from on here and the wheels were lost in them, at that stage I sold the 15x9's and have settled on 15x8's all round with stretched 195 tyres, with the rear flanges rolled and a panhard rod to minimise sideways movement I wont need any arches, Ive attach a few pics showing how the 8's look front and back, it still needs lowered but as you can see any aftermarket arches are going to need a pretty wide set of wheels to fill them! Ah I remember your MG now! do you have a build thread for it at all as I do like the way its looking As for wheel size, I think I would be fitting the arches first and then getting wheels/tyres based on the room available. With better offset wheels and some more arch rolling I could probably fit some wider wheels as it is, but I also like the wider meaner look of having the sebring arches as well But I would be looking to go 15's and probably as wide as possible/I can afford
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Jan 27, 2014 16:06:36 GMT
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In comparison to a Triumph 2000 the B is not quite as stiff or even as strong as a Stag dare I say, hence why the rear arch area is said to be critical.
I did the Sebring kit but as said, the quality of the kits is pretty poor. I ended up using my steel wings up front and grafting on the FG arches. If I were doing it again I would make the rear as I did but use a steel arch on the front (Escort Bubble arches should be fine) or go for the rather pricey ready built wings (I understand the arches are more sensibly sized on these). I have come to the conclusion that my shortcomings in prepwork would probably end up costing the same (despite me shaping the wings on my 'B, the quotes for a respray were steep to say the least).
Some great progress present. I see you are treating your car to a few goodies. Do you reckon you shall be going to the MG show in Feb?
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adam73bgt
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Jan 27, 2014 16:20:51 GMT
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In comparison to a Triumph 2000 the B is not quite as stiff or even as strong as a Stag dare I say, hence why the rear arch area is said to be critical. I did the Sebring kit but as said, the quality of the kits is pretty poor. I ended up using my steel wings up front and grafting on the FG arches. If I were doing it again I would make the rear as I did but use a steel arch on the front (Escort Bubble arches should be fine) or go for the rather pricey ready built wings (I understand the arches are more sensibly sized on these). I have come to the conclusion that my shortcomings in prepwork would probably end up costing the same (despite me shaping the wings on my 'B, the quotes for a respray were steep to say the least). Some great progress present. I see you are treating your car to a few goodies. Do you reckon you shall be going to the MG show in Feb? Hmm I shall have to do some more research on the arches I think, ghe rears do trouble me a bit more than the fronts being structural and all.. but there must be a way to do it without losing too much/any strength? bubble arches from an escort could be an idea, if the sebring kits are so bad I might as well teach myself some metalwork skills and knock up some custom widearch jobs Thanks! hopefully I can get a decent break in the weather to get at the back end suspension jobs, the state of some of the suspension bits at the moment may be quite amusing for some Theres an MG show in Feb? whereabouts? I'd be up for going if I'm free and its not too far away
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2014 16:21:27 GMT by adam73bgt
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Jan 27, 2014 20:24:42 GMT
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More like an unbuild thread, I wasnt able to do any work on it last year as Ive been skint, got the bulk of the welding done, and stripped the rest of the car for paint although as its such a major expense who knows when that will happen, pretty frustrated as its got a completely new stage 3 engine, new suspension brakes and gearbox which I only managed to get 1k miles on before it came of the road 2 years ago... Have been checking out the plasticote stuff people use on here although I want to keep it Harvest Gold as everyone seems to hate that colour. Recent pic...
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2014 20:25:32 GMT by monty400k
72 MGB GT 88 Daimler Double Six 89 Rover Mini 91 Nissan Figaro 95 Lotus Esprit S4S 18 Discovery
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adam73bgt
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Jan 27, 2014 20:51:42 GMT
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Ah thats a shame, paint doe seem to cost so much :/ mine needs a paint job really but theres no way I can afford one at the moment, I say get it one the road all scruffy looking and enjoy that stage 3 engine Then paint it more harvest gold later, B's seem to work in so many different colours, rather than just going for the same old british racing green (mines Mallard Green so I can say that haha) I have toyed with the idea of rollering my B to save some money on a paintjob, but the body work needs a fair bit of attention so I'm living with it looking a bit scruffy
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
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Small update time, been trying to sort the leaking issue from the scuttle vent. I initially thought that using a wire coat hanger from the top did work a bit to help drain off the rain water but then I noticed that the water was all gathering on the passenger side of the scuttle (away from the drain hole..) as theres only one drain hole and the car park where i live is on a slope, parking the car the other way round has got the water back on the drivers side with the drain. But its not draining. So I'm gonna have to take off the valve thing at the bottom of the drain as it must be sealed shut, I managed to grab it from the engine bay but couldn't get it off, may have to resort to cutting it off.. Also have picked up a pair of car ramps today so I can get under the back of the car and hopefully begin work on the rear suspension. Will also be changing the diff oil while I'm there, probably also changing the gearbox and engine oil, plus the grease nipples could all do with a bit of attention.. many things to keep me busy
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