adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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A leaky manifold was my excuse to buy a stainless one for my spitfire years ago (just sayin as Christmas is coming) I got a stainless system last year from the manifold back, but a tubular manifold is tempting even though all the MG guys say they don't flow as well.. but they look cool! and weight loss.. The B has got a couple of gifts heading its way this christmas but pics and more on those when I get back from work In the meantime have a google street view snap from two years ago in the spirit of throwback thursday.. It's so different
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marinacoupe
Part of things
Marina Coupe, Triumph Stag
Posts: 178
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I had MGBs back in the day in various states of tune. More recently I had fitted a stainless manifold in my B Series Marina and after driving it for a couple of months, I refitted the cast iron manifold. The stainless manifold looked great but the system made a really annoying 'zingy' noise and made no difference to the performance.
I have only just starting reading this topic, going back a long way did you get the propshaft U/Js checked? You get the same clonking noise on takeoff and when throttling back as you get with the rear axle pinion lash.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Dec 18, 2014 10:21:53 GMT
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I had MGBs back in the day in various states of tune. More recently I had fitted a stainless manifold in my B Series Marina and after driving it for a couple of months, I refitted the cast iron manifold. The stainless manifold looked great but the system made a really annoying 'zingy' noise and made no difference to the performance. I have only just starting reading this topic, going back a long way did you get the propshaft U/Js checked? You get the same clonking noise on takeoff and when throttling back as you get with the rear axle pinion lash. Mm I think I may see if one comes up cheap on ebay so I can try both, I did have one for a bit but never got round to fitting it before I sold it. I wouldn't expect any particular power gains really as the whole exhaust system is pretty free flowing already Aha I must confess that I never got round to have a look at the cause of the clonking axle, it still does it but doesn't seem to have got any worse in the time I've had the car.. If I get a unit sorted in the new year, it will certainly be on the list of things to investigate, although if I remember correctly the prop was pretty much new when I bought the car so I would hope it and the U/J's are still in reasonable condition.. But having a good look at them is the only way to be sure
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marinacoupe
Part of things
Marina Coupe, Triumph Stag
Posts: 178
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Dec 18, 2014 16:59:35 GMT
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I think that I recall that the U/Js had a grease nipple or two, I recall something about 3000 mile grease intervals, but I could be wrong.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dec 18, 2014 17:59:03 GMT
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A leaky manifold was my excuse to buy a stainless one for my spitfire years ago (just sayin as Christmas is coming) I got a stainless system last year from the manifold back, but a tubular manifold is tempting even though all the MG guys say they don't flow as well.. but they look cool! and weight loss.. The B has got a couple of gifts heading its way this christmas but pics and more on those when I get back from work In the meantime have a google street view snap from two years ago in the spirit of throwback thursday.. It's so different I had MGBs back in the day in various states of tune. More recently I had fitted a stainless manifold in my B Series Marina and after driving it for a couple of months, I refitted the cast iron manifold. The stainless manifold looked great but the system made a really annoying 'zingy' noise and made no difference to the performance. I have only just starting reading this topic, going back a long way did you get the propshaft U/Js checked? You get the same clonking noise on takeoff and when throttling back as you get with the rear axle pinion lash. IME and from what I have seen the design of a 3 branch can make quite a difference. The stock manifold is not too bad, and it is often used in the States as an improvement from what they had. The reason for this is down how the manifolds are designed, primarily with regards to the collectors and lengths, with alot of time (and cash) going into making the collectors. Indeed on the Triumph Straight 6s many manifolds sold on the market by ToiletTune, sorry, TriumphTune have been proven to be worse than some stock items (IIRC the TR6 stock maninfolds are not meant to be too bad at all, with only a few being proven to work, and give truly great gains (Google Triumph 2.5 PI 'Mike the Pipe' Dyno ; there are a few of them). Of course on some cars changing the maniflows can make quite a difference since the original manifold design was so poor in the first place (my Stag for example ; it had logs for manifolds!). From what I have seen with the Minis and MGBs the Maniflow items have been proven to work and have the correct collectors as opposed to the cheaper and quicker to make items. There is a reason why the cheap manifolds are cheap . However, there is more than this to affect matters ; did the MG guys bother changing their carb needles and was the rest of the engine in good order? When I got my Spitfire (which despite being a home restoration was rebuilt from the chassis up) it was as flat as a pancake with its power delivery (it was on stock needle with K&N filters and a half decent exhaust manifold). After enrichening the carbs (alot!) it finally gained some bark back. Going to more suitable needles however did fix the issue ; If I am honest I reckon a dizzy change (for a new one) and refurbed carbs (despite being refurbished one of them was still leaking alot at the spindles due to bush wear; leaking to idling very high and generally being tricky (almost impossible!) to setup) would have really have given that car it's potential. To prove the point both of the MGBs I had were low mileage (in terms of their engines) but one of them had a fresh distributor and carbs. It felt IMO almost 30% pokier than the other 'B which had the 'larger valved' head. I guess what I am saying in a nutshell is that it is horses for courses with regards to what mods work and which don't .
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marinacoupe
Part of things
Marina Coupe, Triumph Stag
Posts: 178
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Dec 18, 2014 18:19:29 GMT
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I agree about the needles etc. I followed the advice in the book 'How to tune your MGB series', by Peter Burgess. I fitted a Piper 270 cam, unleaded head, Ram Air filter, AAA needles and a new early MGB distributor with an Accuspark trigger. The book says that the standard system is basically a long centre branch manifold in two parts, half cast iron and half tubular steel. The only tubular manifold that he found that was better than the standard system was the Peco HDR. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/184584615X/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?qid=1418926884&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX110_SY165
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dec 18, 2014 18:36:03 GMT
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I knew I forgot about one of the the manifolds! the Peco is said to work well .
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Aye I'd heard the maniflow and peco ones weren't too bad, though the peco I had looked very similar to a lot of the cheapish manifolds?
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marinacoupe
Part of things
Marina Coupe, Triumph Stag
Posts: 178
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Dec 19, 2014 11:37:30 GMT
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I think that it's all to do with the length/diameter of the primaries and where the long centre branch meets up. You can bet the because the Peco HDR has been recommended, that other manufacturers have copied the design.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Wow, well its been a while since I last updated this :/ Having the MG outside over winter has put a large dent in my desire to do anything to it, couple this with doing stuff to the Jag and progress has been non existent.. But thats about to change, the Jag is hopefully soon to be moving on, the new daily will hopefully behave itself and more importantly I've been to look at a unit to put the MG in going to be able to get a lot more done with some protection from the elements. I've got a lot of plans for the MG.. one of these will be working its way on to the car, aluminium and much lighter than the current steel bonnet and this will be part of one of the bigger jobs I have planned.. First thing will be to get it into the unit (hopefully within the next week or two) then the strip down can begin I'm getting excited to work on a nice simple old car again!
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Be good to see you back on this again.
It's ironic that I'd love to be able to work outside!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Be good to see you back on this again. It's ironic that I'd love to be able to work outside! Cheers! I'm looking forward to getting back on it as it's a bit sad walking past it every day as I head out to work Aha I shall still have to do any jobs on the Saab outside but I'm not planning on doing anything major to that..
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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LOL so from looking at this thread again it appears that I looked at a unit a month ago and the car still isn't moved in... I was getting annoyed with the amount of time its taking so got involved with talking to the estate agent guy at the council, that should move things along nicely So anyway, I have a little update on the B, jump started it the other day to run it up to temp and all seems well still, gave it a little run around the block too, aside from the handbrake being partially seized on, it seems to drive as it used to so thats good In more exciting news, a mate of mine bought a new car after we went to the MG and Triumph spares day at Stoneleigh I'm sure that many of you will know that it's a Triumph GT6 This interested me greatly as back before I bought the B, the GT6 was up there on my list of candidates for my first car. In the end there weren't enough examples about (and none that I could afford) so I ended up with the B. So I was interested to see what I'd been missing out on The first challenge for me was getting in! despite the B and GT6 being comparable types of car, the GT6 is noticeably smaller and with the aftermarket seats fitted in this one, I ended up sat with my left leg wedged between the seat, trans tunnel and the steering wheel which was uncomfortable to say the least! I took it for a little drive around the block, the steering and gearchange felt much heavier than the B and the car had a few odd noises and vibrations but that engine is an absolute peach! I don't think I could ever tire of that deep Triumph 6 sound, this car has a 2500 engine fitted with twin Strombergs but I'd be inclined to get triple Webers and a tubular manifold to complete the aural experience! We both found the MG to be a smoother drive but to be fair, I've had two years to go through some of the little issues on it so the cars aren't a direct comparison. As I let my mate drive the car round the block, I had my first chance to hear what my car sounds like from the outside. In the nearly 3 years I've had it, I've never had anyone else drive it The MG was noticeably louder than the Triumph and seeing it rolling along from the outside has put the doubt in my mind again about putting the wide arches on it as it looks so 'right' as it is... Have some comparison shots (excuse the lack of grille on the B) I wouldn't swap the MG for anything now so I'm happy I made the right choice Which do people prefer? I do love that straight 6 though... This hasn't helped me to ignore the Triumph 2000 thats for sale on car and classic, hmm could I run two 70's cars?... Aside from all this Triumph nonsense, I have also been shopping for a few MGB bits, I'll do an update on whats what soon, hopefully to coincide with a move to a unit!
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Back in the day, when I were a lad, I used to run a '66 Sunbeam Alpine and had two of my mates had an MGB and a GT6 so we'd swop around and drive each others cars pretty often.
As you say, the GT6 engine is a peach (I would go on to own a 2000 estate later) and the interior fit and finish was just so, well, Triumph. But again, as you say, it wasn't madly roomy. The B was better for space although it felt a bit asthmatic but this is probably being a bit unfair comparing a stock MG with a GT6 and an Alpine with a breathed on Holbay.
But, and I would say this, in my humble opinion the Sunbeam had them both beat on everyday useability, it was much more civilized than either of the others. And the roof dropped!
Good luck on the unit move.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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In all honesty, my experience was similar to yours. The sound of the Triumph 6 pots is quite something! However they are IMHO more unrefined than a 'B and lack the polish (bar the engine!). Yes they are technically superior but maybe the chassis design (i.e : almost seperate) throwas a spanner in the works. IMO that is proof that 'on paper' stats are not the be all and end all. I could take of other comparisons of how certain Triumphs are called ridiculous bargains (although I disagree with that!) but I shall leave that discussion for now . I can say that with a sorted Saloon 6 pot you are in for a treat. Finding one which is sorted is tricky however. Many I have driven have been awful. The good ones however, they are something truly remarkable.
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Last Edit: Mar 10, 2015 0:21:11 GMT by ChasR
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Oooh as much as I love the looks of the Sunbeam Alpine, they're well out of my price range unfortunately :/ I found it interesting that the GT6 felt older inside and to drive than the B, despite the B being a (slightly) newer design. I reckon a tuned up B series should be able to keep up with the 6, but then a tuned up GT6 should walk away from a tuned up B series I am really tempted to try out the Triumph 6 in 2000 saloon/estate flavour.. at least I'd fit in it then!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Sigh, nearly a month since I last updated this and the deal to sort a unit to work on the MG in may have just fallen through, grrrr! Another consideration is that the MOT is up soon... So this thread may see some work in preparation of trying to get a new test on the car which was a bit unexpected! First job will be to free off the handbrake as I don't think that will help.. So at least we might see some updates here
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 10, 2015 22:44:33 GMT
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Right, so I made a bit of a miscalculation and the MOT runs out this Sunday! Tried jump starting it yesterday and got it going but found fuel leaking over the rear carb.. not good. I turned it off sharpish and gave the float bowl a good couple of taps with a spanner as I presumed it was the needle valve getting a little bit stuck with having not run much Put the ignition on again today to test we were petrol tight and found a neat little fountain of fuel coming up from a hole in the hose going to the carb Haven't got any pictures but basically there is a long loop of hose that goes from my inline filter to the T piece which feeds each carb. I originally had a shorter piece in there but the tight bend in it resulted in fuel starvation. So I ran around for a half a year or so without the filter until I put this long loop in Hence I was a bit perplexed at why the considerably newer piece of hose was leaking while the rest was fine. On closer inspection I can see that the rubber hose has deteriorated a fair bit inside the cloth outer which is fairly worrying stuff :/ So a new bit of hose is on order for that Other little jobs I want to do pre-MOT are: A light engine tune up (and re-fit the air filters!) Free off the sticking rear brakes Replace the missing exhaust manifold to downpipe nut On that last point, I'm not sure where I stand with regards to the MOT as you can see the downpipe hangs down from the manifold a bit, yet the join doesn't actually seem to leak any gas (probably due to the o ring in there) so I'm not actually sure whether that would be a fail or not.. Hopefully I'll get a chance over the weekend to do some work on it and take some all important photos!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,992
Club RR Member Number: 58
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FINALLYYYYYYY!!!! After much faff and messing about with a couple of different units, one has been found and work is finally going to restart on the B Roped in a couple of guys from work who were able to provide a trailer and a tow car, its funny to think that way back when I thought I'd be moving the B into the first unit I was looking at, it was road legal and I was going to drive it round For a car thats been sat idle for quite a long time, it started up relatively easy once I'd given the battery a good charge, it drives like a bit of a dog though so I'm glad I'm getting it in the unit now, splitter and bumper had to come off to get it on the trailer Due to a 'disagreement' with the guy in control of the front gate at the units I had to leave the B out over night, but today I went back and moved it in The question now is, where to start?? Theres a lot of stripping down to do so I suspect I'll start at the front and work my way back, I had wanted to get this ready in time for the Gathering but thats clearly not going to happen so I'll sort something else to take to the Gathering (Saab is too new) which will mean I can take my time on the B Real updates to come soon, promise!
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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1973 MGB GT- A little rust 30/08Nathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Engine conversion a go, or are you sticking with charging the B-series?
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