Thanks TDK, there is always things to be done on an Esprit but that suits me. Any excuse to get busy in the garage. Not a massive update at the minute. The block has been washed in the bupi (in the background) and set on engine stand ready for the build. It’s a bit overkill but it’ll save me back, I’m saving that for the install next week. --- Had most of the parts arrive, just waiting on the cam lock blocks from totally Alfa, hope they arrive tomorrow as the engine won’t be finished. I was having trouble finding an oil pump new but checks show it wasn’t worn anyway. Spec shows .025mm to .080mm, I couldn’t get the feeler gauge between housing and gear…….PASS. The block to pump tube seals were like plastic, they broke on removal. New seals in box installed. I found a small amount of wear on suction side of pump. No real issues but still, I prefer to have it right. A bit of 800grit and finish 1200 grit on a flat surface and oil to get rid of marks. Ready to build
Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
Ha, so birthday and then build turned into birthday beer and 6 months later! The plan was to use the week off to build the engine at work. Turns out the manager at the time was an idiot(know who you are), resulting in me having to bring it all back home and carry out the build here. I got to work measuring bores ,shells etc, where I discovered the shells I had originally ordered were wrong. A bit more measuring and research led me to a company in Germany who could supply me with genuine Alfa shells for more than £100 less than you the UK companies. It’s ridiculous the mark up you get sometimes. Cheers Alfabb forum.
Use a sealant for the liners due to the seals in the kit being poor Liners removed cleaned and honed.
A quick check showed the bores were around 40% worn. With new rings, I wasn’t too worried about that. Besides, the bores where in really good condition and pretty spherical. Use the piston to push the ring down to the right position where it would run in the liner. Also, it keeps the ring level, then measure your gaps. Good tip. Measuring ring gap… Crank and big ends measured several times so as not to make the same mistake. Then installed and checked when caps had been torqued [/a] So now all the measuring had been done it was time for build. Everything had be torqued and marked to spec. I had www.a1-plating.co.uk/ clean up some of the visible engine parts. They cam out really trick. Only took him half a day……………..Tenner! Found No1 TDC with the gauge and tool so no mistake was made when refitting cam pulleys. You can see the cam clamps in exactly the right place. These are a bit of a pain to get right. Also, don’t use the standard bolts to camp them, the bolts are too short in the block, it’s possible to strip the threads in the head you see. Pulleys and cam belt installed Special tool for correct belt tension Back to the SUMPPPPPP! This thing needed more modifications the Michael Jacksons face. There just wasn’t enough room for the crank sensor in its original mk1 design. A bit of chopping and cutting and its done. I added a baffle due the size of it new sump, turned out nice. I bought a cheap pump from B&Q so I could pump the oil round the system, checking oil reached the cams with no blockages, after the sump was installed of course! Oil under pressure coming out of slackened drilling plug and oil around cams……..Good. Engine all finished and flashy Found a good spot for the new fuel system. I’m running the original low pressure fuel pump from the previous system. There is a 10micron filter before the swirl pot but I added it after I took the photo. It works placing the fuel system here, a fibreglass section covers all, so nothing will be showing. But will give easy access. Fitted the fuel and TPS/coolant wiring loom using AN-6 fittings, cotton braided fuel lines and bulkhead fittings. I used the old coil box the hide the emerald ecu. A slot was cut and sealed for the 36 pin plug. I’m waiting on the relay ass’y from emerald so I can run the coils and injectors separately. Almost finished the loom, I’ve used duetsch connectors where possible giving really good water resistance within engine bay. I managed to use the original Alfa twist plug which is handy when removing panels. Almost finished the coolant lines. Its pretty tight so I probablt wont be able to get any decent photos. The manifolds are finished. I used 70ft of that D.E.I titanium wrap. It looks trick, better than other stuff to wrap too.
The original red plastic clutch hose on the lotus has always been a problem, causing difficult gear changes due to the hose expanding when hot. For this reason I opted to install a braided line. The gents at SJS lotus parts made the line 40cm longer as requested for no extra It would have been too close to the manifold if left standard.
The old, just pump the clutch until all the paint stripper was out the hose!
Installed the new. Bit tricky through the chassis underneath but it's nice and neat. ---------------------
Ignore the dirt and mess. It's a waste of time cleaning whilst all this is going on.
Almost had an accident today too. As I was reaching over to tighten the front fitting, the car fell off the stands. No damage to the car and I suspect it was because there is very little weight holding the stands down. it maybe isn't heavy but it probably would have pinned me to the floor. That got me thinking, how would this look on the drive....
The original red plastic clutch hose on the lotus has always been a problem, causing difficult gear changes due to the hose expanding when hot.
Ah, that might explain an issue I have with the Hillman, that after driving through town for any length of time the clutch pedal has often felt 'nearer the floor' but I've never managed to convince myself that it was actually a mechanical issue. It has the same type of plastic hose. Perhaps I should follow your lead and fit a stronger replacement.
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
It actually looks like things are happening now. welded up the temp sensor fitting and tapped to suit at break time today. Installed the throttle cable and ordered the solderless nipple. Turns out the throttle movement on the triumph ITB's looks like it has the same amount of travel as the standard pedal. Can't be totally sure until the parts arrive.
Getting a bit tight now
Installed the RH manifold, wrapped the oil/power lines with heat wrap. I thing a fair amount of heat will be generated, wrap EVERYTHING!
I think I'm going to cut the trumpets to follow the rear window. good idea or no?