So I had some big plans for this weekend. Granada plans... Turned out to be a pretty good weekend, although I didn't get to do what I wanted to and there's always a set back of some kind to present itself...
One of the main jobs I wanted to do was to change the engine oil and filter. And while the engine was dry I'd also fit the new remote oil kit so I could plumb in my mechanical oil pressure dash gauge. I also wanted to trouble shoot the temp sender/gauge and finally swap the front part of my propshaft as I wanted to test if that had an impact on high speed noise. The inner tie rods seem to have not been shipped yet, according to tracking info, but the reseller ensures me they have... So couldn't do anything with that yet.
As I thought it was an easy job and weather was holding up pretty well, I started work on the propshaft on Saturday. I'm doing this as I used a rather heavy lump of metal to extend the prop shaft originally. As I had no fund to have it balanced I thought I'd just try a swap to see if a droning noise at motorway speeds was caused by the propshaft or not. This was cheaper than balancing the shaft. And if I do decide to lengthen this one as well, I'll do it with a lighter inner tube and then have it balanced.
First to split the spare from it's back half (which in standard for has both the wrong flange and is much too long). This in itself is not very hard. With it secured in my ancient B&D workmate, it was split apart soon. Getting the shaft to slide out of the support bearing took a little work, but as often, it suddenly slid out.
With that done, I raised the car in a convenient way and supported it with a stand and a chock in front of the front wheels. The pic was taken just before I put the chock in. I'd learn later on in the day that the chock is vital on my sloping drive.
I set about undoing the 9 bolts that hold the propshaft in. I started with the two on the support bearing casing in the centre. Fortunately the exhaust wasn't too much in the way. It prevented me from using sockets, but I had other tools to hand. There was also enough room to slide the bearing casing out once the front and rear flanges were undone.
Being under the car I noticed that the drive line angle was not optimal. And that the hardy disc was beginning to show tears. Well they do that anyway, but a driveshaft angle issue won't help.
I went on to split and then reassemble the shaft and replace it. Upon replacing it I spent considerable time on the drive line angle. I raised the gearbox on the jack to see what the effect would be. Felt that it should come up quite a bit. I put in a 12mm shim for now, but the final version will be 15mm thick. I then experimented with the centre bearing height. I had previously put in little shims to lower it some. And it almost looked like the angle would now be better without them so I took them out. I put them back later on, as I saw that despite looking better, it put more strain on the hardy disc. The hardy disk now does not have to flex as much as it used to before adjusting the angle. I'm not sure if all this is the result of things settling in or me just being oblivious to the problem before, but I remember spending some time back then to set the angle. Now to find a new hardy disk... Well one thing always leads to another doesn't it. So the whole experience will be relived once I've ordered one (which is seriously bad timing).
Swapped front prop part (to be painted when proven better) and shims removed for visually better angle on shaft.
But, slightly visible flex on the hardy.
The line on the gearbox support shows the 12mm it has been raised. I'm currently running a shim underneath the box mount, but would like it better to shim the whole metal/rubber carrier. But that would require adapting the crossmember. That now allows the top of the rubber mount through, but in my new scenario would need to allow the larger lower section to come through from above. The current method of shimming works but I think I'm going for a better approach.
This shows the consequence of using the original length shaft, the splines engage a little less. Here still without the shims on the centre bearing that help the angle improve.
Said shims.
The hardy starting to go.
After having done a short, round the block, test drive, my fear of tolerances being now a little too close for comfort on the hardy bolts vs. the body cross member above them were proven true. Under some conditions there was a little knock. So when I came back up again went the ass off the car. And it was then that I learned the importance of a chock in front of the front wheels. I was jacking the car up when the loss of contact from the one wheel was enough to put the car in motion. As I needed to spin the prop shaft the car was not in park either. So the car rolled the jack over then stopped. No damage to the car and as I was working from the outside no danger to me either. But it did drive home the need to use a chock. I backed the car up some more and added the chock. I take safety seriously and always use a stand in combo with a jack for security. And I usually think about the car being free to roll. But somehow I missed adding the chock this time.
What followed once I felt 100% safe again was a session with a hammer and a punch, to create some clearance. Access was abismal so in the end I resorted to using the dremel grinder. I cut the current slot a little wider and made sure there were no nasty edges. Enough clearance now methinks!
And that was Saturday. It had all taken so much more time mostly because of the drive line angle testing. It was windy as hell though, all day, but the temp was not too bad. I was just setting up for the oil change and remote oil installation when I figured that those were not a 30 minute job and I put the car away for the day instead.
The next day I decided to move forward once more. The weather was far from great so I worked with the ass end of the car sticking out of the garage once again. I moved some stuff about so I now had better than the 30cm access I usually have as I needed to be in the interior much more often for this job.
I started undoing the radio from the dash. Taking out the binnacle surround. And then undoing the binnacle itself. It came out easy enough. Thankfully. I did most of this with the engine running for a bit to thin the oil. When there was a chance of things getting hairy I shut all power down. I pulled out the binnacle the last bit and I then moved forward.
I had to jack up the front of the car to get an oil catch basin under the car. And to get myself under far enough to undo the oil pan drain. This was stuck beyond belief. It took me quite a bit of effort but just as I thought the nut wouldn't take anymore (as it was starting to round) it finally let go. I drained the oil and lowered the jack to let it flow for a while.
I went on to remove the old oil line, which I never got seated correctly on the other end after shortening the line. It's ridiculously long.
Next I spent a few minutes getting the new gauge feed hose through the grommet on the bulkhead. I had to relieve cut it some, but it was then fine and in within a minute. It was easily found at the dash side of the car as well. Pulled through so there was room to work with it. I then fitted the first adapter, from gauge to hose using a bit of locktite for hydraulic/fluid purposes. Then the hose was next. This was a type that used thin washers so no locktite used. Tightened to instructions which were basically to not overtighten them.
With the oil now drained fully, the sump plug was put back on and tightened up. Normally this time, as it felt like the Hulk had done it last time. Now to raise the car again so I could get to the oil light sender. On this engine it is obscured in part by the thermostat and it's hoses. It was a bit cumbersome to find a fitting socket or wrench as the casting of the block has protrusions near which make using a bahco useless. A 24mm deep socket would have been the right tool, but those sizes I only have in normal depth. So as the sender has a prong for the connector out the back this poses an issue. I could put the socket on part way, and not lock the ratchet in it as usual. Access was poor but I found from the wheel well to work best with some extensions. It was a bit of a struggle, but out it came.
I put the second adapter of my parts collection back into the hole. This was far easier as it was a lot less bulky using I think a 15 or 17mm deep socket. Again from the wheel well with some extensions on the ratchet. Also again applying a little of the locktite. Next up was the feed hose to the T-adapter. I put that on finger tight so it could all set to the position my t-piece would end up in.
I put the oil pressure sender in the t-piece with some locktite again and next added the final adapter the same way to the side of the t-piece. Now to determine the best location for it taking into account the gauge feed hose length. Turns out 6ft is a decent length leaving little to spare. The original must have been even longer then. With a location found I connected the t-piece to the supply hose. These are crimp fits so no locktite and no over tightening! I also nipped up the oil feed hose from the block connection.
As the work from below the car was now done, I put on a new clean (bosch quality) filter with a little bit of clean oil on the seal. Ater cleaning the old oil off I put it on hand tight. Lowered the car again so I had easier acces to the front and side from above.
Next is was a curse word to drill a new hole for the P-clip that was to hold the t-piece. I had to do some crazy moves to get my cordless in there... The hole was drilled in 30 seconds or less, but getting the drill in and out took minutes each.
Finally it was all in place and oil could be added. In installments I put in just under five liters of 5w30 semi synthetic oil as I was advised long ago by a Ford master mechanic and trainer who knew these engines well.
I'd say a change was due: smelling a bit of petrol and not looking very fresh...
And then the final thing for the day, well apart from cleaning up, was to fire up the engine and see how it sounded, how the oil gauge would read and if there were any leaks.
Basically the engine ran nice and smooth. In my imagination it sounded a little quieter as well. The oil pressure gauge read!! It read quite high compared to the original 2.6 V6 engine, but the gauge was not specifically made for this engine so maybe that explains it. At least it read nice and high. On a coldish engine. It went up and down with revs as well. Although slowly. The old engine seemed to have a more direct rise and fall with revs. I'd not run it up to temp as I wanted to check for leaks and with the car in the garage and the exhaust being blown in with gail force, I only let it run for a bit.
The leak check showed one joint leaking. It was the one I was most careful with as I was afraid to damage it. It was the gauge feed from the t-piece between adapter and hose. This again was a joint with a washer and it had been tough to get the nipple/union over the washer so friction was greater and I was hesitant to go too far. But after the test needing to do it up, I felt there was quite a little ways to go without too much force.
A second short test of the cleaned up joint now showed it all leak free.
Result!!
I didn't get to diagnose the temp gauge. It was too late and to be honest I don't know if I really have a good clue as to how to proceed there. Will try and get some help involved. In that sense it may have been dumb to plum in the oil gauge as that needs to come off again to create room to work on this issue. But I suspect it can easily be undone without the engine running and with a piece of cloth nearby.
So on to the temp gauge and the tie rods (if they ever get here). Oh and another while I'm at it came up.
I had long ago used led's to illuminate the inner dash cluster. I had done so in a way that worked, but that was not too convenient and the wires were susceptible to getting caught, squished or otherwise damaged. So I decided to replace them by LED tape. It's only 7 euro for a meter which is sufficient for my dash and is 12v so plug and play. So that will be a nice evening job. With the cluster out and a temp sender at hand I'll try and recreate the circuit off the car to see what it does. Then I can move on from there.
Small steps, small steps... I ache all over from working in cold and wind and in all sorts of poses, but I loved every minute of it all!
off the motor by now: clunks, bangs and wobbles included!