1972 Granada Mk1 coupe build - Still going... 14-10-2024

[eurogranada]

The exhaust is the lowest point of the car, so it does very rarely but still occasionally take a hit from a road barrier that is not shaped ideally. Also As stated the exhaust is very simple and low budget. It's the cosworth downpipes that have a 48mm inner diameter. A straight pipe is hammered in there and clamped and into the ends of these, the original 45mm outer diameter section of pipe (cut from behind the original intermediate dampners/mufflers) is inserted on both sides. Then the original back box with it's "over the axle" pipework fits to those sections like original (slide in joint with clamp and paste).

So it's functional, but it now seems to not hang as it did. The movement definitely creaks. The witness mark is in the middle of the right hand drive shaft. It hasn't yet worn through the powder coating so it can't be like this for too long.

What I can do is rehang the exhaust so it sits better. But in reality I want a bigger bore system made that is slightly more quiet for the longer journeys. Although the current system sounds great when you punch it, it's a little too loud. Small kids cover their ears when I pass by.... :-(

I think the above will be step one to see if this eliminates the noise. If it does, an appointment will be made at an exhaust shop.

I must admit, that the rotational aspect of the sound had me confused and is the only reason I still have a little doubt it really is the exhaust. But at least that is something that is relatively easy to check. Although I have a love hate relationship with exhaust systems.

[gess]

From your video I would also first assume it was either the CV or the bearing. I had a similar sound when one of my bearings wasn't tight enough. My problem was that I had't tightened the nut enough and I therefor wore out the small axle going through the bearing and also the bearing.
Lifting the exhaust to prevent it touching the axle would be the easiest way to eliminate a possible source for the noise. I guess the exhaust could wobble a bit and only touch the axle at intermittent times, the axle will move a bit up and down depending on the surface you are driving on.
I hope it is an easy fix.

[SamJ]

I think it is definitely worth confirming or ruling out the exhaust before going any further, maybe rehang the exhaust and then add some tape or something to the witness mark on the drive shaft so that you know if it touches again.

I will bring my truck around, I think that will make your car sound quiet I want to get the exhaust replaced, its really rubbish, but a full custom exhaust isn't cheap...

[eurogranada]

Ok, so the Granada needed a new MOT and before that finally the alignment which was way overdue after having replaced the inner tie rods. With the MOT around the corner I finally put myself to making the appointments. Tough to do in these days as there just seems to be much less opportunity now everything needs to be planned. But an appointment got made...

That morning I drove over. The alignment guy has a Granada himself so was happy to once again see mine. The front wheels were obviously way out, but they were easily corrected. Rear wheels were still well within spec. So rather uneventful but my my, what a difference this has made. You could feel it just by backing out the shop and corner in order to then drive off. On the road it felt a totally different car and I really enjoyed that drive. Probably the most enjoyable in a long time. So money well spent. It'll be a few hundred kilometers before the tires lose their sharpness, but well happy now.

Getting an appointment for the MOT was also not that easy so I was late by a good week. But then the day came and me and the car reported for it's checkup. Always draws a crowd in the shop... Anyway the test started and went wel for the first 5 minutes. Then I saw them having trouble with a headlight, putting a new bulb in and it still not coming on. As the pre-check had not highlighted a broken bulb I felt something else must be going on. Also I remembered a picture I had taken with that front light out, but when I came to check/swap it over, there was nothing to fix, it was on. So, I butt in and tapped the relay box with the fuses for the headlights twice with my nucles and ask, is the light now on? Yes it was! Failure averted then.

Back to the waiting room. They put the car up in the air and down again. Nothing much to report I think. Didn;t see any funny looks. But then I get asked to start the car again and they set up to do a gas analysis. It being a 72 car doesn't require one, and I said so. I said he'd never done one before even though he has tested this car on all but one occasions since the rebuild. He admitted to being in doubt. Apparently there is also a rule that if it's on the car it must function and my car obviously has cats. So they measured. It was a very narrow fail. But a trick one of the mechanics had one day learned was to put a bit of a draw on the engine by switching on the lights or aircon etc. And low and behold, it passed. So even though this wasn't mandatory in my view, the car passed even the more strict test.

At that it received a fresh MOT with no advisories. Well happy.

Took it to work next day! Uneventful.

I still sometimes had that strange rotating noise at the back. So in an effort to rule out the cause I met up with our SamJ to go for a drive. At first the car was nicely silent, but then suddenly it started and once there it couldn't be missed. We stopped and checked. Both felt that it felt like something in the brake drum. A shoe catching and releasing with a tick. Then again it was not a once in a rotation sound but severa times a rotation.
We decided to head back to Sam's and drive on to my house to take the drum off. If anything was wrong it was better to already have the car at my house. We couldn't replicate te sound this way so I cleaned the surfacses and greased the contact areas. Put back together the sound is still there and hasn't stopped after a few times around the block. It seems softer though.

Given the rotational character of the sound we can only assume it is the wheel bearing. So we'll be looking into that soonish.

I was supposed to have a 400km round trip this weekend due to a meeting up north, the one I got stranded while going to, twice. So I would have liked to have made it there this time. Sam felt I would. But turns out the meeting is cancelled as is...it's now a pre booked camping thing only, which I didn't know so didn't do. So I'll have to wait another year then....

[gess]

Congratulations on the passed MOT.
I listened to the sound on the video once moore and I would guess thst it is a rear bearing.
It sounds similar to a fault I had on my car. Have you tried to tighten the nut? It could be a short time fix, it was that for me when the nut loosened during driving. The bearing was a goner but at least it lasted until I could get it exchanged.

[eurogranada]

Thanks Gess,

I'd be surprised for it to be the wheel bearing. It was replaced during the rebuild in 2015 (ish) and the car hasn't really done thousands of miles since.

I had a thought later that I once had a cv joint on a front wheel drive car fail and that gave a similar sound upon turning. So for myself I haven't quite ruled that out either.

I'm trying to decide what to do: buy two cv joints and a new set of rear wheel bearings to be prepared but with the risk of spending money that I could also spend differently if either one of those components is not to blame.

But I think I have a way of narrowing down the culprit. When I now roll the caar forward the sound is audible, at least when the car is warm. So I may get it to where I hear the noise again and then undo the drive shaft on the wheel side. Push the car around a bit. If no noise then, then it has to be the cv if the noise remains it should indicate wheel bearing.

At least that is my thinking.

[SamJ]

Shame that the meeting has in effect been cancelled.

One thought, could you swap the driveshafts left-right? I assume they are the same so if the sound moves you know it is CV join related, if it stays on the same side it might be bearing?

As I said on Sunday, I am happy to come over and help if you want, should have a socket for the hub nuts also I think, 36mm right?

[eurogranada]

Jun 8, 2021 9:04:33 GMT SamJ said:

Shame that the meeting has in effect been cancelled.

One thought, could you swap the driveshafts left-right? I assume they are the same so if the sound moves you know it is CV join related, if it stays on the same side it might be bearing?

As I said on Sunday, I am happy to come over and help if you want, should have a socket for the hub nuts also I think, 36mm right?

I'm hoping disconnecting the drive shaft when the noise is present will prove the same as actually swapping them round. It's possible as far as I know, but 4 times the work.

I believe the nut was 38mm.

And yes, I know you're willing...and you by now know I'm not afraid to ask either. But as usual I'll try and see what I can gather myself.

By the way I really liked seeing your workshop/garage(s) and your projects. When time actually permits, it looks like a great place to work in! I'm only a little jealous of the space you have, but am very happy with what I have myself.

[mk2cossie]

The driveshafts on the mk2 are different lengths, not sure if the mk1 is the same?

Also, I've had wheel bearings not last that long for decent replacement ones. Especially when compared to how long original ones lasted

Is it worth checking the CV joint bolts are all tight?

[eurogranada]

Jun 8, 2021 12:29:15 GMT mk2cossie said:

The driveshafts on the mk2 are different lengths, not sure if the mk1 is the same?

Also, I've had wheel bearings not last that long for decent replacement ones. Especially when compared to how long original ones lasted

Is it worth checking the CV joint bolts are all tight?

I had it all apart way back and the axles were the same length, but I did hear this being said before. So either there's a wrong one on there or they are the same length on a Mk1. But to me that is strange as the MkII uses the same diff.Only different, smaller flanges.

Yes, the cv joint bolts are tight!

[varelse]

Is it a once per rotation clunk?
Or constant?

My Pathfinder has a once per rotation clunk but only on braking, which we think is the shoe being spiralled out on the roughish drum surface, and then being pulled back in with a clunk by the retaining spring.

Doesn't sound like your issue, but it took us a while to work it out as it wasn't first thoughts!

Luckily we were able to sit on a hoist with a screwdriver held to the ear to try and locate the noise.

[eurogranada]

Jun 10, 2021 5:57:12 GMT varelse said:

Is it a once per rotation clunk?
Or constant?

My Pathfinder has a once per rotation clunk but only on braking, which we think is the shoe being spiralled out on the roughish drum surface, and then being pulled back in with a clunk by the retaining spring.

Doesn't sound like your issue, but it took us a while to work it out as it wasn't first thoughts!

Luckily we were able to sit on a hoist with a screwdriver held to the ear to try and locate the noise.

It's not a once in a rotation noise. It comes and goes several times during one revolution of the wheel. It also is only present when weight is on the suspension/wheel. The MOT man had the car on the lift and didn't find anything. I've had the car off the ground at times I knew the car was making the sound and you don't hear or feel anything.

We initially thought the sound was coming from inside the drum. It also felt like you could feel the tick in your fingers when you had them on the drum and the car was pushed forward a little. So I also suspected a shoe being dragged then released under spring tension, but opening the drum up there was nothing wrong at all and no signs of anything catching. ratcheting bach the shoes from the drums a little made no difference either.

Tomorrow I hope to find time to do some of my personal non honey-do's and checking this out further by releasing the driveshaft on that side eliminating the cv from the equation for a start.

[thomfr]

Just my first thoughts:

Outside (drum side) wheel bearing?

Thom

[georgeb]

Don't forget how noise travels as well.

Had a Subaru with a ticking noise, "definitely" from the back of the engine, even with a long screwdriver against the ear.

The next week changed the cam-belts, noise gone, never to return.

So yeah, noise travels.

[eurogranada]

Jun 10, 2021 8:54:49 GMT thomfr said:

Just my first thoughts:

Outside (drum side) wheel bearing?

Thom

Current thinking is either CV-joint or wheel bearing. I initially jumped to CV-joint, but the noise is not always there. Last Sunday I had driven for 35-40km's before it became audible. So I started doubting that again. But a wheel bearing I would also suspect to hear constantly, although both these items do warm up while driving...

Hence the plan to try and rule one or either out.

The rear wheel bearing is not a conical inner and outer type yet a straight dual ringed ball bearing...

[eurogranada]

Jun 10, 2021 10:00:28 GMT georgeb said:

Don't forget how noise travels as well.

Had a Subaru with a ticking noise, "definitely" from the back of the engine, even with a long screwdriver against the ear.

The next week changed the cam-belts, noise gone, never to return.

So yeah, noise travels.

I agree that pinpointing noise can be very hard. Both me and Sam are pretty sure it is the right rear. We also think we could feel it in the drum when the tingy metallic noise was heard.

But I guess testing and ruling out by elimination will show if we need to look elsewhere.

[mk2cossie]

Would it be worth unbolting the outer CV joint from the hub side (on the suspected side) to allow the wheel to be spun up by hand easier for noise finding?

As thats what I ended up doing on mine and discovered a very noisy wheel bearing that was otherwise masked by driveline resistance when all connected

Still love the shape of the earlier coupe
And the blue you chose really does suit the car

[The Doctor]

I'm not sure if it does it when unloaded, but you're always welcome to come and use the lift at the barn. That way you can leave it running in gear and walk underneath the car

[eurogranada]

Jun 12, 2021 23:57:26 GMT mk2cossie said:

Would it be worth unbolting the outer CV joint from the hub side (on the suspected side) to allow the wheel to be spun up by hand easier for noise finding?

As thats what I ended up doing on mine and discovered a very noisy wheel bearing that was otherwise masked by driveline resistance when all connected

Still love the shape of the earlier coupe
And the blue you chose really does suit the car

That is the ecact test I was planning on doing. Priorities shifted a little during the weekend so I didn't get the chance to attack the Granada itself. Did granada related things like getting the spare box and engine separated, stored away or on the stand to be worked on and created some working room in front of the car.

Yes, the coupe has a nice shape and the colour accentuates it well. I get so much attention driving this thing around! And I still love it very much.

Although there is still room for improvement! (engine swap/regasket and LPG for one)

[eurogranada]

Jun 13, 2021 13:57:45 GMT The Doctor said:

I'm not sure if it does it when unloaded, but you're always welcome to come and use the lift at the barn. That way you can leave it running in gear and walk underneath the car

Thanks, that is a great offer. And to be honest I've wondered about using it for a thing or two lol. But in this case the noise seems to be gone without weight on the car. Hence the other test first.

If it comes to changing the wheel bearing I may be inclined to use the lift. And I believe there now is a press available as well...which would make short work of changing the bearing out.