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Interesting to know, and really useful information if you are in the US. Thanks.  Looking at his price, I'm guessing that with shipping and duty, if indeed he'd ship overseas, it would work out slightly more expensive for me than buying new from the UK with a three/four day lead time. Shame he doesn't have a Manila branch though. I'd be there like a shot! |
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A Manila branch, probably not.
Manila Envelopes, perhaps even with a little window on the front? Quite possible.
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So you're being charged white man prices?  Can you get the good lady to ring them, haggle in Filipino and get it for £28? |
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Koos
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So you're being charged white man prices? Can you get the good lady to ring them, haggle in Filipino and get it for £28? That's not beyond the bounds of possibility! I'll let my little man at the other place complete his mighty quest first and see what he says.If no luck, then aye, i'll try the Madam route. |
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Well,well, well, fancy that. Sort of an update regarding that little piece of British shock and awe that pounds Manila's roads - or, strictly speaking, doesn't at the moment. So, now that the financial situation is about to ease a little, and the acquisition of an accumulator becomes more viable, it's time to look at the brake overhaul I've been planning. There'll be a set of these going on (in stock)  A brake modulator modification kit (in stock) - No pic, but it's a stainless washer about the size of your little finger nail and some o-rings! A modification to the PCRV (brake bias valve) which involves getting one of these machined up  and sourcing of appropriate o-rings. That should stop it leaking and return it to functionality - we hope, new ones are as hard to find as a virgin in Ermita! And, of course, one of these  To do the modulator, the reservoir needs to come off so step one, tomorrow, will be to drain the system as far as possible. this'll involve cracking a nipple on the rear brakes, sticking a pipe on it, switching on ignition and applying the brakes (rears only function when the brake system is pressurised), This should shift a fair bit out. There's also a bleed nipple under the reservoir which should empty that, so all that'll be left (theoretically) will be in the front lines and when I change the hoses gravity should see that bit done as well. I've been advised to allow around ten hours for the modulator job, including removal and refitting, but the rest should go reasonably happily. The one beauty of this vehicle is that it's obviously never seen road salt and so far, apart from some being bloody tight, no nuts or bolts have been rusted in, so trusting that brake unions feel the same. I'll give 'em all a good squirt all the same. Got the driver hunting me a machine shop for the PCRV mod and I'll do that whilst the modulator and reservoir are out of the way. Actually, the accumulator and PCRV are the only pressing jobs but as the latter is a pig to get at as it stands and the system'll need bleeding anyway (on a P38, one of the most complex procedures known to man), we may as well do the lot. Once all that's done, it'll be time for the annual registration. That'll probably take longer then the overhaul! Must remember to put the torch on charge tonight!  |
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Last Edit: Jan 7, 2017 23:30:48 GMT by georgeb
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Good to see some form of progress, George. |
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generallee
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,094
Member is Online
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Love it. Makes waiting for Euro car parts to open on Monday morning seem a bit boring...
Just thinking aloud (or rather in writing), is the accumulator thing particular to a P38? I can't imagine Wabco or whoever tooling up to make a special RR one, ie is there something locally that uses the same one or a very similar one but much cheaper? I recall something about Bently suspension sphears being waaaay more expensive than Citroen ones, even though they are the same thing.
You probably thought of all this though.
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Good to see some form of progress, George. Very nearly! Love it. Makes waiting for Euro car parts to open on Monday morning seem a bit boring... Just thinking aloud (or rather in writing), is the accumulator thing particular to a P38? I can't imagine Wabco or whoever tooling up to make a special RR one, ie is there something locally that uses the same one or a very similar one but much cheaper? I recall something about Bently suspension sphears being waaaay more expensive than Citroen ones, even though they are the same thing. You probably thought of all this though. I seem to remember Rolls Royce using Cortina pads at one point as well. Just twice as many of them. The entire ABS/Traction Control system on the '38 was a Wabco design and all very clever it is too, if way over complicated. There are a few makes that use a similar accumulator, Audi as stated above by mrchappers, some Saabs as well and maybe others. I do know that nobody, to date, has found an acceptable alternative. None of the ones mentioned seem to be a simple swop and this subject has been flogged to death on RR.net for years now! The other issue is that even if they did fit, I'd still need to ship in as I don't ever recall seeing a single Saab and hardly any Audis here either. Actually, I can normally get parts within around 3 days of ordering from the likes of Rimmers et al, but in this case it's been a matter of financing and my Girls seeming to think that feeding them has a higher priority over my brakes. This problem looks to be coming to an end, hence the call to action!  Anyway, the plan as stated above is to drain via the rears and modulator, and just let the remainder use gravity when I do the front hoses. However, we've hit a teeny snag. Some time ago, I'd spotted and grabbed some tubing thinking, "This'll be ideal for brake bleeding" - poor misguided fool. I go to my "stores" cupboard this morning and what's missing? Yup, you guessed it. Upon enquiring of Madam if she had any ideas where it may have gone, I got a rather sheepish look. A few months back she was having all new kit and caboodle fitted in the water purification shop she has when, apparently, the guy doing the work lamented that he was short some tubing. So whilst I no longer have anything to bleed the brakes with, at least I know that the tube I did have is helping control the spread of cholera, plague and whatever else the populace of Tondo would get from drinking out of the mighty Pasig River!  |
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Last Edit: Jan 9, 2017 0:20:31 GMT by georgeb
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Jan 12, 2017 23:05:47 GMT
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Well, things are moving along apace. I'm supposed to be meeting up with a machine shop guy this weekend over the valve mod, so we'll see if he can actually produce something within my lifetime. I've also enquired of Island 4x4 about sending the accumulator, with me paying via bank transfer from Hong Kong. I'm fairly sure I've done this before with them, so it should be okay. If so, we should have that back end of next week. Oh, and I bought some new bleeding tube (take that whichever way you wish). The alternative was to wait until Saturday when me and the Bottle Openers head over Tondo for the Santo Niño Festival on Sunday and retrieve my stolen bit. But then we'd wind up knee-deep in water, and Madam may just notice that! See? It's all coming together. |
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,991
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Jan 12, 2017 23:22:38 GMT
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Sounds like you're getting there eventually I seem to remember my XJ40 had a similar sort of brake system with an accumulator but I doubt finding one of those in Manila would be any easier than a P38 item  |
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Slowly,slowly catchee, etc! Your right Adam, there's a few motors use them now, but all European (and none compatible as far as we know) so they'd still need to be shipped in. If the glorious HSBC in Malaysia hadn't allowed a very large and fraudulent (they rang me to confirm it was me, I told them, no, I was stood on my balcony at the time of the call, they said they would stop it and didn't - all calls are recorded but it appears they can't find this one!) transaction to go through on my credit card, we wouldn't still be in dispute nearly 12 months on and I could have ordered normally!  Still, where there's a will, there's a way. |
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I've been down to the Pit of Hell this morning and given the brake line unions a dose of penetrating oil. They didn't look like they needed it but can't do any harm. As further preparation, I broke out the modulator repair kit which contains a USB with instructions. 31 pages of instructions. 31 pages to replace two washers and seven O-rings.  This is gonna be fun! The kit comes from an outfit called Range Rover Solutions in Australia and the owner, Russell Botha, is super helpful, the instructions brilliantly detailed, along with lots and lots of pictures. Looking through, it looks a similar sort of job to rebuilding the air suspension valve block. Fairly straightforward if you take it steady, and are in the correct mood. As I found with the block, the latter is the more important! The reason behind this mod is that the original washers are plastic and eventually deteriorate and give up leaving you, at 120kph, with absolutely zero brakes. Sounds good, huh? Land Rover, perhaps typically, claim that the modulator is a non-serviceable item and should be replaced, but with what? That second hand item in ebay that looks like it's been used in a kids kickabout? I think not, so pass the scalpel nurse, we're going in! Monday I've got an appointment with Immigration so Tuesday I'll drain and replace the hoses, Wednesday remove modulator and then either do the mod or drink beer. If the latter, do the mod Thursday and replace. Then we're just waiting on the accumulator and PCRV modification before the refill and bleed. Doesn't look much when you write it down! |
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2017 2:53:55 GMT by georgeb
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I've been down to the Pit of Hell this morning and given the brake line unions a dose of penetrating oil. They didn't look like they needed it but can't do any harm. As further preparation, I broke out the modulator repair kit which contains a USB with instructions. 31 pages of instructions. 31 pages to replace two washers and seven O-rings. This is gonna be fun! The kit comes from an outfit called Range Rover Solutions in Australia and the owner, Russell Botha, is super helpful, the instructions brilliantly detailed, along with lots and lots of pictures. Looking through, it looks a similar sort of job to rebuilding the air suspension valve block. Fairly straightforward if you take it steady, and are in the correct mood. As I found with the block, the latter is the more important! The reason behind this mod is that the original washers are plastic and eventually deteriorate and give up leaving you, at 120kph, with absolutely zero brakes. Sounds good, huh? Land Rover, perhaps typically, claim that the modulator is a non-serviceable item and should be replaced, but with what? That second hand item in ebay that looks like it's been used in a kids kickabout? I think not, so pass the scalpel nurse, we're going in! Monday I've got an appointment with Immigration so Tuesday I'll drain and replace the hoses, Wednesday remove modulator and then either do the mod or drink beer. If the latter, do the mod Thursday and replace. Then we're just waiting on the accumulator and PCRV modification before the refill and bleed. Doesn't look much when you write it down! With a name like Russell Botha, he must be another South African expatriate in Oz. Sometimes patience is a virtue, but sometimes a pain, just need to identify which is needed for the job. |
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Well that was a waste of time. As you'll be aware, last week was scheduled to be the Great Brake Overhaul, but due to trips to immigration and a required visa run, it never happened. So it was shifted to this week instead. This morning I girded my loins and descended to the Pit of Hell with the intention of fitting my nice shiny new brake hoses. WRONG. The set comes as two long and two shorter hoses to connect the hard lines to the calipers and two even shorter ones to replace the mid sections by the rear diff. You can't mix 'em up as the two shortest have female connections at both ends whilst the other 4 have banjo caliper fittings at one end. This is what we found (apologies for the curse word pics but I think they illustrate the issue well enough) Mocking up the shorter hose to the rear caliper gives us this...  Chafes on the tyre beautifully And next to an original rear...  Hmm, suspecting all may not be well, I set the mid-pipes up against the original...  Only about 2/3 as long as they need to be. And this is the label on the bag.  At least that's correct! What a complete and utter pig. I've just fired a mail off to Goodridge, with photos, and await their response. |
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curse word said Pooh!
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-(
10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily
03 Import Forester STi - Sold
98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-(
99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold
02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX
88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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doh! looks like someone swaged the wrong fittings on the wrong lenghts? wouldn't have been a big problem if they were the older style non swaged nut and olive type, but still an  . |
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And well he may. doh! looks like someone swaged the wrong fittings on the wrong lenghts? wouldn't have been a big problem if they were the older style non swaged nut and olive type, but still an . Actually, that could be a valid point. The ones with the two female ends would fit the rear calipers, with a banjo end, a treat and the shorter of the longer ones would do the mids. I've not looked at the fronts yet. I'll wait to see what Goodridge come back with. Whatever, it's a weeks delay at least. |
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Well, following an exchange of e-mails last week in which they said they couldn't be held responsible for the differences between the long rumoured, but never previously seen Philippine Specification Range Rovers and European ones, but having it pointed out that given as the vehicle was an export model, but destined for Land Rover France, you don't get much more European, all communication stopped. Well no, that's a lie. All communication from Goordrige stopped. I have been talking to the ether for the last seven days. Bowed, but not beaten, we're having another go and today I ripped off the intermediate and front hoses as well, so as to give a clear side-by-side comparison. This is what we've got...  Rear hoses hard line to caliper  Intermediate hoses over rear diff  Front hoses, hard line to caliper - they are correct! Still, two out of six ain't bad. I also sent this...  just so there couldn't be any confusion. Whaddya reckon? |
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Last Edit: Feb 3, 2017 8:15:13 GMT by georgeb
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,920 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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I think the retro rides 'massive' should all e-mail Goodridge to say please keep George hanging in there as it provides much snide enjoyment that this s**t isn't happening to us....
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,991
Club RR Member Number: 58
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It looks like a pretty clear cut argument to me, I can't see what kind of defence Goodridge can have lol Myself being a brakes engineer at a certain midlands based OEM car manufacturer.. I've had a quick look on our parts systems and I can't see any differences in brake hoses by country so they're talking bull  |
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Can you get the good lady to ring them, haggle in Filipino and get it for £28?
