Stag Turbo, With a smile & a nod the wise man said nothing

[blackpopracing]

And sometimes we modify them just because we can and it's a fun thing to do.

[kevins]

I've always thought they should have made a 2.5 straight 6 version, virtually the same power as the V8 and much more durrable. I had a 2500S saloon for a few years and it never let me down.

[Bullstarz]

Nov 26, 2020 22:52:58 GMT kevins said:

I've always thought they should have made a 2.5 straight 6 version, virtually the same power as the V8 and much more durrable. I had a 2500S saloon for a few years and it never let me down.

“ I had a 2500S saloon for a few years and it never let me down.”

Where’s the fun in that. 

“In1972, for example, body rot and dubious reliability were as much a part of the motoring landscape as furry dice and firing WD-40 in the vague direction of a dead engine on a damp morning.

To be brutally frank, my relationship with classic cars is a troubled one. I love the history, the amazing stories that some of them have bequeathed to us, the politics and infighting that either propelled them into the world or hindered them. But I don’t really want to own or drive them. Old cars simply aren’t as good as modern ones. If they were, they’d still be in production.

And yet, and despite rumours that the market is flattening out, classic cars are enjoying a bit of a renaissance. I suspect this is because there’s nothing better than buying a toy and kidding yourself that “actually, darling, it’s an investment”. The expression “better than money in the bank” is probably keeping the old-car market buoyant. I suspect it’s a myth. A few exotics appreciate significantly, but most just go wrong.”

Quote from James May

[kevins]

I now have a TR7(4 engines have gone in that including 2 v8's) a Lotus Elan and an old range rover (new auto box this year and 34 year old fuel injection) now so plenty of opportunity for fun!

[Bullstarz]

Some say it’s childish, some say it’s not politically correct, while others mention  they only turn the spreader as soon as they see your car. All we know its called a gritter.

[Bullstarz]

Finally got the garage almost sorted, the car is at home and in the semi-dry. Not manage to do much on the car but I ordered some new wing mirrors. There from XJS jag, Rolls-Royce or Bentley. Slightly bigger and standard stags but hopefully that mean I can see more out of them. Which let’s face it is a main idea for having them.

The main benefit of fitting these types is they have a adjuster which sits inside the car so a lot easier to get a good image. As my car has a roll cage and harness try and adjust the mirrors was a nightmare. The passenger-side usually was over an image of the sky or or the rear wing. Completely useless, but now hopefully all that will change and I will be able tosee where reversing.

[Bullstarz]

Well, since 2006, I’ve always relied on keeping my car at some location at work. Now this location this change many times in 14 years, but now I have my own fairly dry garage. And it’s got a door so it’s a little bit warmer than outside. Now it’s got power and lights that means I can work on the car whenever one, one advantage of this Covid stuff.



One of my new best tools is a rivet nut gun, which I don’t know how I’ve managed before without it. There’s so many possibilities where it can be used it, as so more activities you can do ( just like in stepbrothers “are you using power tools “). Just waiting for Amazon to deliver the M6 bolts to get a mirror is on.

[e30ben]

Enjoyed reading this, what a lot of work! Car goes look mean as.., the rims really work well.....

[Bullstarz]

Slightly off topic as it’s got nothing to do with my triumph but,

My new (to me) daily driver is another Range Rover but it came with some outrageously large wheels, 24 inch rims, which when driving about in North Devon not only looks stupid but is completely wrong. As the roads aren’t the best and these rims will be destroyed fairly quickly.






So with a look on eBay, gumtree and other similar sites I found a set of 20 inch wheels with fairly decent tires. But they didn’t have the TPMS fitted. Also they could’ve done with a paint, they were silver and black would look better on the car. So a quick drive down to a local tire place to take the tires off the rims, spray them black, and take them back to the tire place with new TPMS.

Now this is the first car I’ve owned with the pressure tyre pressure monitoring system, there seems to be a lot of confusion on the various websites to if the car will recognise four new senses. I don’t know if Land Rover/range Rover is the same or different to other manufacturers. But it seems a lot of cars need to have each individual sensor reprogrammed, programmed, to the car. But I plugged my diagnostics into the Rover and as far as can tell it mentions it can learn the new tyre pressure sensors. And also shown the ID numbers of all five senses that are fitted on the wheels, theold wheels that is, at the moment.



I did write on each wheel the ID number of the TPMS that was, hopefully, fitted to that wheel.

Does anybody have an experience on this new witchcraft of the tyre pressure 

[CaptainSlog]

Feb 10, 2021 13:39:20 GMT Bullstarz said:

Does anybody have an experience on this new witchcraft of the tyre pressure 

www.rangerovers.net

[Bullstarz]

Well it turns out the range rover learnt his own new TPMS. Even though when I plug the diagnostics into the car it still came up with the old sensor codes, so these must have to be entered manually. I wasn’t sure if it’s working until yesterday, when it flashed up that the rear left was slightly low, which it had dropped 2 psi. So hopefully that’s all sorted, but might have a slow puncture on the rear left.

Regarding the triumph the promise of warmer sunny rare weather has coaxed me into doing something.   I thought I’d take the hardtop off. I was looking at different ways to do it, I thought I could put a winch/hoist on the roof supports in the garages to lift it off. Then I thought, why pay £100 for a winch that was going to use twice a year, once for taking off once a putting It back on again.

so not wanting to waste money on something and used twice a year I thought what else could I use, they have that moment of clarity, my engine lift/crane. With this I thought it allow me to lift the hardtop off the roof, then lifted up to the beam and connector where you can stay for the rest of the year.

so with use of a bit of climbing rope and a few carabiners made it happen.

[Bullstarz]

Not really touched or use the Stag for awhile now, it’s just been sort of put on the back burner. Although, I did do a short run the other day to try to find the cause of a noise. Which turned out to be the drivers side brake  disc had slight surface rust that was enough to catch the pads and make metallic noise, which is never a nice noise and sounded a lot more serious than what it was. First time for that.


A second journey was needed to clear that fault. A few applications of the breaks seemed to clear the noise but I found that something that didn’t seem quite right , how do you put it, surprised, on how the brakes worked. Now I know I’ve got I Wilwood set up with pedal box, no servo. Driving the car the brakes didn’t seem to be that good or confidence inspiring. I know the brakes were cold and the standard wilwood pads need to get quite warm for them to work. I can remember when I was driving it a lot, mainly testing it on an airfield, the brakes just got better and better. Which is fine if you got a clear road, airfield , where there is no traffic and you have the opportunity to get that brake up to temperature. Not much use in the real world, where you can guarantee you’ll need the brakes from the cold to work for flawlessly.

so I called up EBC to see what pads they had for my calipers. A few choices yellow stuff, blue stuff or orange stuff. Now I’ve had yellow stuff before on the stag but not with these Wilwood calipers, and they were extremely good. Orange stuff were out of the question there a purely race pads as I thought were blue stuff. however, EBC mentioned that the blue stuff pads were now road legal.

So I enquired how good the where, they replied the like yellow stuff but just more. Far better in every aspect, extremely good initial first bite when cold, even better than the yellow stuff. 

When I got home tonight there is a new package waiting for me, new EBC Blue stuff pads. Already to fit when I’ve  got the time, the space and of course the weather, its got to be decent as it takes about 100 miles to bed then in.




_{Has anybody any experience with the EBC blue stuff pads, although really is a bit late now, I should’ve asked a few days ago before i bought them.}

[blackpopracing]

Cant comment on those, but Mintex 1144 pads are awesome.

[Bullstarz]

What’s the difference between a thread size of a 1/4 27 tpi NPT and 1/4 27 tpi.

Answer about 4 1/2 hours trying to get a good seal and no leaks until you realise its not a taper like you ordered. Also don’t believe a hose maker who says no need to use any of that sealing stuff. Use plenty of PTFE and a copper washer.

So a 10 minute job of replacing a pipe took about five hours I’ve taken pipes off, pipes on, unions on, unions off. Now hopefully I’ve got a power steering system that will do some power steering and not just seep fluid everywhere within that 30 minutes of driving.

[blackpopracing]

Ah, I feel your pain!

[Bullstarz]

I hopefully I had the power steering nipped and no more issues, well with that anyway. So I thought I’d turn the car around so I can fit the new pads, which is a bit of an excuse for a drive in the sun. the drive was extremely short as the brakes once again seemed a bit wooden lack of feel not particularly good. It was good that I turned the car around so I can fit the new pads. When I checked under the Bonnet I noticed that’s one of the reservoirs, I think it’s a front brake had gone low.

More fun. Couldn’t see any fluid on the front calipers or pipework so I started looking at the rears but couldn’t really see or smell any brake fluid. Then I noticed that the drivers carpet was wet, and of course it was brake fluid. So One of the unions on the brake Master Cylinder could have a leak or more seriously, which you know it will be, is that the cylinder its self has it gone.

Winner winner chicken dinner

[blackpopracing]

Oh dear, not good.

[biturbo228]

Drat.

For cleaning out the brake fluid, it's worth knowing that it's water soluble (one of the reasons getting moisture in your brake fluid is such an issue). You don't need deterent or anything to lift it off, it'll just come out with rinsing, soaking and scrubbing.

If it's blistered the paint on the floor then it's probably soaked into the pores of the metal beneath it a little, making it tricky to get new paint to go on. I haven't tried this myself, but I think you can burn it out with a blowtorch. Hopefully someone with better experience than me can chime in!

[Bullstarz]

Luckily all it was the pipe from the reservoir going to the master cylinder that was allowing brake fluid to seep out. So all it needed was tightening up and hopefully that will seal it. Sounds an easy job but had to take the dash out which isn’t an easy job, but unfortunately that doesn’t look like the reason the brakes aren’t very good hopefully the new pads will sort that. The brake fluid only just went onto the carpet, I washed those last night, luckily I’ve got sound deadening on the floor so the fluid didn’t go any further.

As the dashboard is out I might as well replace the brake bias cable as the old one had started to fail, had failed. Also the fan heater blower had started to smoke when you turned it on, so a bit more stripping down and I might be able to take that out. Again not an easy job

The clutch on my car is a Tilton 7 1/4 triple plate affair, and these clutches are pretty much on or off. Which can make pulling off a bit, well I don’t think there is words that describe it really. Tilton say to use a .75 master cylinder for the clutch.

Now here is the question or puzzle and I’m very interested if anybody’s got any knowledge or experience, so as the car is part strip down I can do some swapping about.

I’ve done a bit on hydraulics and got a bit of knowledge on physics, and from my reckoning it should work, but more than likely won’t. But I’m thinking of doing is swapping out the 0.75 Master cylinder and swapping it with a 0.7 or 0.625 cylinder.

Doing the maths, as far as I’m concerned the difference will be 15%or 44%respectively. So this should mean that the clutch pedal will be 15% or 44% easier to press. As a consequence of swapping to a smaller master cylinder the amount of fluid pushed to the clutch will be reduced by the same amount.

The clutch should, in principle, still function but to make it work you’d have to press the clutch pedal by 15% or 44% further for it to do so. With the 0.75 master cylinder there is a very small movement of the clutch pedal, between the clutch disengaged and fully engaged. This should also be increased by the same amount. As a result there should be more control of the bite of the clutch.

I’m fairy sure my reasoning is correct but I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, and let’s face it it wouldn’t be the first time.

[biturbo228]

Yes, you're right on stepping down a master cylinder size will make it easier to press. It will also mean the slave cylinder will move less for a given pedal travel.

What this means in practice is that the clutch will be easier, and easier to modulate. It will also mean that the biting point will be lower down in the travel of the pedal (if it's way too small, you won't be able to move it far enough to disengage the clutch).

There's an additional factor with paddle clutches in that the material they're made of and their design means they heat up very quickly (which is how they make sure they grip rather than spin). This means that even if you lightly touch it on the flywheel it'll still grip much better, making them snatchy when trying to pull away. I'm not sure if changing the master bore will work, but it's worth a shot!

Oh, and I've just double-checked your maths and it checks out. You've done the right thing and worked out the areas of each bore, rather than just using the diameter. Do you know what your slave bore diameter is? I don't think it changes the ratios, but I can check.