1990 Mazda Miata MX5 - service

[Nathan]

Oh MX5 handbrake, it's a running joke at my MOT station and everyone stands around to watch the needle not move on the rollers :-).

I replaced my whole calipers for it to still fail HAHAH. Typical weak point, adjustor like to seize even though they are caked in brake fluid......Mines just awaiting a new ECU then it's MOT time.

[MiataMark]

Mar 29, 2023 13:57:15 GMT MiataMark said:

• The seat isn't insecure it just moves a bit, I've got a replacement seat runner,
• The passenger door can be opened but it's a bit temperamental (needs lubricating and leaving it unlocked)
• Ball joint covers have been an advisory for the last 2 years, I've bought replacements
• Handbrake hopefully just needs a bit of adjustment.

Changed over the seat runner and lubricated the door lock, 2 issues crossed off (I know the low hanging fruit ones...).

Do need a new door card though, probably drivers door as well.



(Good) Friday is ear marked for the other jobs. Disco replacement should be ready today so need to get rid of it

[MiataMark]

Disco has gone, dragged off for scrap

Shouldn't really get emotional about an inanimate object but it held a lot of memories.

[MiataMark]

Having ticked off 2 of the easy things now onto more difficult items, ball joints.



Started on the nearside, actually got both ball joints split without too much trouble. I didn't want to remove the upper wishbone and upset the geometry. Used a jack between the wishbone to pull the lower ball joint free.



Spent a bit of time removing all the remains of the boot on the upper ball joint and replaced the boot, similar for the lower. However when replacing the lower ball joint tightening the nut the ball joint just spins, this could be that the top threads of the castellated nut are in bad condition.

Called a halt and have ordered new lower ball joints (I only ordered covers), to make the job easier. In the future I'll replace the upper arms as the ball joints are integral and replace the wishbone bushes, but at the moment the priority is to get it back on the road. I'm quite surprised how dirty the calipers etc are so a refresh is needed as well.

Oh and the Disco replacement has arrived,



Which isn't a true Land Rover as it's basically a Ford/Volvo with a Peugeot engine...

No plans for this except better headlight bulbs, boot cover and dog guard (because dogs) and maybe a tow-bar. This my wife's car and our dog walk and holiday car.

[MiataMark]

So fitted new lower ball joint to the passenger side, no real problems.



Hopefully that'll keep the MOT man happy.

Driver side, should be easy now I know what to do right? err no can't separate the bottom ball-joint, using the wedge/fork type ball-joint separator. I think that the lower ball-joint isn't a correct type, the nut isn't castellated, so maybe a tighter fit. I've remembered that I've actually got a screw/cup type separator that I can try otherwise I'll take the whole hub/upright off and either replace (s/h ~£20) or attack in the vice although I'd rather not disturb the track-rod end.

Annoyingly that ball-joint wasn't a failure, but I thought I'd change it anyway and it's split now  .

Freelander - Dog guard, boot cover and new rear number plate stuck on, don't like screwed on number plates (private plate, the front replaced with an old one got a new one to fit).

[MiataMark]

So drivers side, 2 sessions of trying to use the 'yoke' type separators "...A few sharp hammer blows and the joint separates..." err not at all even a few lot of hard blows with a heavy club hammer. I was getting a bit desperate, I had a screw type ball-joint separator but it didn't fit very well and failed. So a visit to Machine Mart and their most expensive ball joint separator set purchased. Even with this it was hard work, too restricted in space to use a socket so a ring spanner but no go, tried the 2 spanner trick (ring end of a spanned to claw end of spanner to add length) to increase leverage and finally with quite a crack it separated...

I think the issue was that the ball-joint fitted was a pattern part, no castellated nut, and was a force fit.

The weapons used, clarke-cht702-3-piece-ball-joint-separator-set would recommend this set.



Final result, hopefully the MOT man will be happy, although that track-rod end looks a bit dicey.




Now just the handbrake, rear brake to sort out, some adjustment and greasing of the slide pins should sort that out hopefully.

[jamesd1972]

Hopefully you get the slightly pragmatic MOT person who gives credit for the work done so advises on the other bit knowing there's a good chance you'll do it. At least you now have more tools to make the job easier next time...
I've been sent away with a go home and sort that out sooner rather than later conversation an odd time.
Fingers crossed.
James.

[kevins]

I'm pretty sure if the boot is not leaking its only an advisory.

[MiataMark]

After the ball-joint battle onto the Handbrake battle (skirmish compared to the ball-joint).

The handbrake (well rear brakes) are a known weak spot for MX5s, the slide bolts seize and the handbrake adjusters seize so don't adjust.

Removed the slide bolt and greased the slide bolts but all seemed fine.




After many attempts to adjust the handbrake adjuster that just resulted in destroying the adjuster screw (that screws in from the back), luckily I had spares. I surmised that the handbrake itself wasn't working, obvious really, unattached the handbrake cable and the return spring and soaked everything accessible with lubricant/cleaner. A lot of mechanical (by hand) to and froing of the handbrake mechanism and it loosened off enough that I could re-attached everything (even the return spring went on without too much of a fight) and get the handbrake working. Adjusted the handbrake for ~5 clicks and all seems fine.




A bit if time spent searching for the pad spring clip that disappeared.

Think like the fronts the callipers need another rebuild, this time I'll sort out the adjusters.

MOT booked, (at a different garage as the original have a 3 week waiting list) for Wednesday afternoon.

The MOT fails (hopefully nothing else has has failed in the months since the test.

• The seat isn't insecure it just moves a bit, I've got a replacement seat runner, - seat runner replaced
• The passenger door can be opened but it's a bit temperamental (needs lubricating and leaving it unlocked) - lock lubricated
• Ball joint covers have been an advisory for the last 2 years, I've bought replacements - ball joint battle won, new lower ball joints and replacement covers for top ball joints
• Handbrake hopefully just needs a bit of adjustment - handbrake adjusted.

[MiataMark]

So MOT at different testing station, after some confusion over emissions system thinks it's registered in 1998, a big FAIL.

• Not sure how the coil-overs have come loose but should be easy to tighten?
• Brake hoses, these are Goodridge braided hoses fitted by the previous MOT garage, no idea why they would be wrong
• Caliper leaking, this is probably a split piston seal/cover (dripping brake fluid onto the brake pads - not good)
• Ball joint covers, I didn't put a lock-ring on the replacement covers (will probably replace the whole ball-joint)
• Brake imbalance, the rear offside caliper still needs work (or replacement).

So 2 callipers to rebuild, coil-overs to adjust, ball-joints to replace and brake hoses to sort out.

Interesting that the previous test centre didn't pick up on most of this, but I guess it's better to have a strict tester.


Editted to add, found a comment on the MX5parts website re the Goodridge brake lines,
"Although sold as being compatible with the MX5, these hoses are fractionally too short and don't have the hooks to keep them located on the caliper. Have now had two of them fail on two different cars as they undo themselves. They also cut into the brake line as they are designed to fit a larger diameter brake pipe"
Shame I didn't read that before I bought them, I'll either buy some standard lines for the front or a set of IL Motorsport braided lines.

[Rich]

The RFR they have applied for the coilovers is incorrect and not applicable, the springs are allowed to come free of the seats. Wording (as exactly copied) in the manual:

“You should assess the security of a coil spring to the chassis or axle when jacking and lowering the vehicle. If the spring does not correctly locate when the suspension is returned to its normal running position, then you should reject it for being insecurely attached.”

Making sure the lock rings are tight if they are genuinely loose is sufficient here provided the springs do indeed sit correctly

[MiataMark]

Aug 9, 2023 21:12:39 GMT Rich said:

The RFR they have applied for the coilovers is incorrect and not applicable, the springs are allowed to come free of the seats. Wording (as exactly copied) in the manual:

“You should assess the security of a coil spring to the chassis or axle when jacking and lowering the vehicle. If the spring does not correctly locate when the suspension is returned to its normal running position, then you should reject it for being insecurely attached.”

Making sure the lock rings are tight if they are genuinely loose is sufficient here provided the springs do indeed sit correctly

Interesting, I might print this out and have it with me when I take it back. I will make sure the lock rings are tight though, I want to raise the suspension a bit anyway.

[MiataMark]

Parts ordered,

From MX5parts
   1 x MDB1686 MX5 MINTEX PADS, 1.8 FRONT 93> & 1.6 98> (comments say as good as EBC Greenstuff and cheaper)
   1 x SI203 FRONT CALIPER PISTON, MX-5 51MM DIA (insurance as I don't know the state of the piston)
   1 x SI207 ADJUSTER GEAR, REAR CALIPER (the adjusters that get chewed up, I like to have spares of these)
   1 x SI3646 Mobil Brake Fluid DOT-4
   2 x SI6619 WASHER,PLAIN
   2 x SI6624 UPPER ARM BOLT - MK1/2/2.5
   2 x SI6625 Front Upper Wishbone Arm Washer, Large, MX5 Mk1/2/2.5
   1 x SI8438 REAR CALIPER, RH, Mk1/2/2.5 STD BRAKE (aftermarket caliper)
   1 x SI8786 IL MOTORSPORT BRAKE LINES MK1/2/2.5 (£130, bit OTT but do it properly)
   1 x SI9032 Front Caliper Repair Kit, Mk1/2/2.5 STD (I've got some old seals but at £6.58, better to use new)

   Total Charged: £320.78

From Autodoc
   Suspension arm
   Article: SKCA-0051623              £40.66         2             £81.32 (+ £14.40 P&P)
   (this is a bit of a gamble with a pattern part, the MX5parts pattern parts at £69 but are out of stock, genuine parts are £182)

Autolink (because annoyingly MX5parts don't have the nut)
   Nut, front upper wishbone to subframe,
   genuine Mazda MX-5 mk1, mk2, mk2.5, FB0128091A
   This is the special nut that goes on
   long bolt that attaches the inner end
   of the front upper wis...                                                     £4.66 GBP      2       £9.32 GBP (+£4.44 p&p)

  Even more annoyingly I then found an eBay seller with the complete upper bolt and all nuts/washers, genuine Mazda parts, cheaper.

Also the tester mentioned that the fog light was starting to not show red, it's the rewired reversing light with red film over it and the film is peeling off. So ordered a Red LED bulb to replace the clear bulb, and I'll remove the film. Will hopefully look better as well.

[MiataMark]

So repairs...

Got lot's of new parts...





First off, this is what the MOT tester called bow string tight brake lines and loose springs (yes the locking ring is loose, tightened now), still replaced the lines anyway.



Working on brakes it's recommended to do this to the brake reservoir, did it work well partially.



replaced the wishbone, not as bad a job as I thought, had to loosen the anti-roll bar mounts to get the bolt out. Bit of jiggling about to get the wishbone out with only unbolting theh bottom of the coil-over. Thought I'd taken a picture of the fitted wishbone, will do when I do the other side.



I'm not sure about these pattern parts, no castellated nut and I'm not too sure how well the ball-joint taper joint is working (good enough to get through MOT, I'll probably rebuild the original wish bones with new bushes and ball-joints).

Other side, replaced the brake lines, that will please the tester and looks nice as well.

As I don't have a compressor I have to resort to old school methods of getting pistons out of calipers. (This is a staged photo. remians of seal can be seen bottom left.

Meanwhile I'm struggling with replacing the dust-cover on the front caliper, retired to watch Youtube videos of it. Should just have sent them off to BiggRed for a proper refurb...

Oh and annoyingly my vice broke (think it was my grandads as well, the washer on the end of the screw thread has detached.

So probably 6/10 for today's effort.

[vitesseefi]

I usually use the brake pedal to pump the pistons most of the way out before removing from the car. May need to top up fluid for this and do them one at a time.

I also have a fitting bodged up that mates a schraeder valve stub to a brake fitting so I can use a foot pump (or even a bike pump) instead of a compressor.

[MiataMark]

Aug 15, 2023 21:20:37 GMT vitesseefi said:

I usually use the brake pedal to pump the pistons most of the way out before removing from the car. May need to top up fluid for this and do them one at a time.

I also have a fitting bodged up that mates a schraeder valve stub to a brake fitting so I can use a foot pump (or even a bike pump) instead of a compressor.

I thought I'd added a picture least night (now added), I use a foot pump with the adapter for pumping up air beds etc, use a glove as a seal. When the piston comes out it's with some force.

[MiataMark]

More spending, I don't trust the pattern wishbones (I'm sure that the one I've fitted the ball joint is spinning and I can't tighten up the nut) so I've ordered some from MX5 City that look better quality and hopefully coming from a MX5 specialist will be better. At least they were on a sale, £112 reduced to £90.

Luckily when I ordered from Autodoc I paid for 'safe order' that gives free P&P on returns.

Just need to sort out the caliper, getting the dust cover on correctly. More lubrication required I think judging from the videos.

[zeberdee]

The ball joint will sometimes spin once you get to the nyloc part of the nut .

If put pressure on top of the ball joint , the tapper will grip & the nut should do up ok .

👍

[MiataMark]

Aug 16, 2023 15:36:35 GMT zeberdee said:

The ball joint will sometimes spin once you get to the nyloc part of the nut .

If put pressure on top of the ball joint , the tapper will grip & the nut should do up ok .

👍

Good tip to remember for the future.

No nyloc on the nut and tried putting pressure on the top, to me it doesn't look like it's seating fully in the taper. Lost confidence in the parts and would prefer to have a castellated nut.

[MiataMark]

So a full morning in the hot sun and everything is fixed (I hope), everything went suspiciously well.

Put in the newer wishbones, that have castellated nuts and seem much more secure. Rebuilt the caliper after watching YouTube videos, went som much easier. Swapped the pads over to the Mintex pads and the front was finished.

Right side (even a handy big R on the caliper)....

Left side, plenty of copper grease on the back of the pads, probably not need as there are anti squeal shims.

These were the Greenstuff pads from the drivers side (the non-contaminated side), don't look too good for the limited use they've had. Yes that is a Haynes book of lies (needed for Torque settings)

Replaced the rear drives caliper, silver not gold :-(

Then got SWMPBP (She Who Must Press the Brake Pedal). Not too sure how effective that was, can I use an oil vacuum extractor to pressure (suck) bleed the brakes.

Can't get a re-test this week and on holiday next week, so MOT 4:Sep..

Meanwhile the BMW has developed an oil leak onto the turbo, causing smoke to come out of the bonnet and needs a new track-rod end and possibly a steering rack mod before its MOT.