vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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That's closer than I ever managed digitally! It's hard to say where exactly the hem will sit, I think it will probably be a bit lower at the front and a bit higher at the back than you've done there, but not by much. The curve and perspective is going to change how it looks too. There's a lot of shapes going on in that area. It does make the rear end look heavy and I'm okay with that, it's heavy in the right place. The pin the top with deadbolts on the lower corners is the method that seems most common and easily done so that's probably what I'll go with. Just needs a minor adjustment to the return lip (both rears need repairing anyway) to accomodate and it's basically invisible when the skirt is off the car. Eventually I need to figure out what to do with the exhaust because that's pretty ugly. I was planning on lakes pipes once upon a time and have since changed my mind, physically routing them will be a pain, the O series is not a nice enough sounding engine, and it's just not going to work with the rest I don't think. I did consider something like bellflowers, but I think the rear overhang is too short and upswept for it to work.
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braaap
Posted a lot
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Like this? Covering the corner on the arch? Hm, I'm not sure if this works without a good hit withe the stick?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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That's what the suspension schrader valves are for ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
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Or perhaps, take the Hyundai approach: ![](https://www.wgmnet.co.uk/hyundai.jpg)
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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After six or seven hours and a full bottle of welding gas, I got the inner and outer sill sorted on this side of the Princess. There's significantly more weld holding this all together than when I took it apart so while it's not yet finished, it's certainly in better shape. I've been putting this off for ages because it also meant taking both doors off to get access to a couple of spots. Also means I've dealt with some hidden rot around the rear jacking point that I was totally unaware of because it's only seen when you get the outer sill off, so it was nice to address that. A larger gas bottle would be nice, these small ones don't last as long as I'd like, trouble is I can't physically carry a bigger one when it's attached to the welder and still don't have a welding trolley so I'll have to stick to the 9 litre ones for now. Nothing else on the car is as big a job as that sill, welding wise, so I feel like I've got over the hump of that work now.
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Sorry, I can't stop myself. I felt like this was more what you were after though.
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2024 20:56:16 GMT by horrido
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Yep, that's got the vibe. I like that take on the colour split too, definitely has more of that 70s slightly tacky luxury look about it. Skirt looks about like it does when I mock it up IRL too, I'm impressed you got it that close from my rubbish description.
As for tinted glass... I'm hoping I can make one good set from what I have. I've got the car's original set which has the number plate etched on to them, and another set from a donor car. Neither are perfect, a couple have grinder spray (from before me) on them, so they're not great for getting tinted. Finding a set of complete and matching tinted Princess glass, even just the side glass, is very difficult to do these days, so tinting a good clear set is the best option unless I get really lucky.
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Did you see that blue Princess in the "Scrap yard cars" post recently? Could be worth asking for parts there...
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Why not fit lakes pipes and just keep the original exhaust? Many 60 cars did this.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Waxoyling Lyrical That's actually an Ambassador, new to me all the same. Not much I could use from that on mine, sadly, maybe the front valance and lower wing sections to see if an Ambassador chin works on a bumperless Princess. There's no info on where or when the pictures were taking either, newest thing I could spy was a 55 plate, so it could all be long gone. EDIT: the displacers! Almost forgot. Probably the most valuable part of any wedge, and always a gamble when rescued from a scrapyard car. blackpopracing Dummy lakes are a lot easier to install, that's very true. You'd still see the factory tailpipe sticking out the back, that's the bit I don't like the most and the bit I want to hide.
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2024 9:12:24 GMT by vulgalour
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Ambassador glass not compatible with Princess, I take it?
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Some of it is. Rear doors and windscreen definitely are. Tailgate is different to the rear screen in the Princess. Front doors might be different too, the mirror was moved from the Princess door location to a little triangle at the front corner of the glass on the Ambassador and I don't know if they also reshaped the glass to accomodate that.
That said, you could just chuck the Ambassador doors straight on the Princess and get around the problem that way.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,187
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Dodging the rain today, which was intent on stopping me doing stuff, I both gave the car a wash and used up some of the paint leftovers. There were two things I wanted to do, the first was the new colour split on the front and that proved that you can't really use a hard line at the arch curve, so we'll be doing a fade there for extra bonus custom car points. ![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/vulgalour/c82810518e91.jpg) ![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/vulgalour/a9ef0f0a7968.jpg)
I don't mind the colour split in the Cerise, because it changes colour so much depending on the light, it doesn't have the same heaviness to the nose as the flat pink does so I'm okay with that. The P6 trims have really grown on me too, I wasn't sure at first but the longer they've been on the car the more right they've looked so I reckon those will get a refurbish. Wheels definitely want a repaint, I'll have to get my spare set up from Kent so I can get those properly shotblasted and painted rather than a DIY job, so they'll hopefully last longer.
The other paint job was to use up the Peugeot black and a few other cans with dribbles in so the back panel is finally matching rather than that faded burgundy. Looks hugely better for it. The spoiler will be going Cerise when we've got the paint for that to happen. The spoiler is just the right size to put a cuppa on so it gets to stay for that reason if nothing else. Looks a bit smokey because it's on choke and stone cold and raining.
![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/vulgalour/6375f0790604.jpg) ![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/vulgalour/5afdfd195180.jpg)
At the front, I've got to do a little work to the panel that goes under the lights and grille because it's a little bit tweaked from being worked on a few times over the years. The whole front end will go Cerise because the front end looks clean enough now that I'm pretty sure that will work. There might be some sort of decorative grille or other element applied at a later date if I find something suitable, for now just going to keep it simple.
The only other significant styling change I'd like to make is some pressed metal serck font number plates, which would be period correct and just another nerdy little thing. Not yet found anyone making those and they may not be a thing that exists even. The front plate has picked up a small crack from a stonechip at some point so it's only a matter of time before that needs replacing.
I'm also hoping by adopting a patchwork look while I work through the bodywork flaws people will stop asking me why the paint looks bad, or at least when they do ask I can say 'I'm working on it, be patient' and they'll actually believe me. Honestly, you'd think shiny paint was the only important thing.
![](https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/vulgalour/76bf11a80beb.jpg)
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2024 17:33:54 GMT by vulgalour
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