1980 Austin Princess mild custom - 1951 Lanchester LD10

[vulgalour]

I'm pretty sure I can draw through the in-tank pump with an external because it had a secondary electric pump wired in when I got the car to get around the in-tank one being dead, and after that I used a mechanical (because I couldn't actually get an in-tank one at the time) one as used on the Marina which did perfectly well.  I don't think there's collapsed/crushed lines because I can very easily suck fuel through the line or use the manual primer bulb I fitted today and the fuel pump isn't pumping any better or worse when the engine is running than when it isn't and the ignition is just turned on.

I'll know a bit better (I hope) when I pull the carb off and have a look inside.  It's also been suggested it could be an air leak and that did remind me I had a similar running/starting issue when the paper gasket between the carb and manifold had ingested/blown out a piece so I'll try squirting some WD40 or similar around that area when it's running to see if it improves matters before dismantling stuff.

I did consider just unplugging the hose from the pump at the tank to make the shortest route possible and eliminate the fuel line as a problem but because the pump sits at the side of the tank right at the bottom I'm pretty sure that the fuel will just sort of fall out regardless of what the pump is doing.

[vulgalour]

Solved the fuelling issue: dying fuel pump.
Took off the carburettor and it's absolutely spotless inside, everything free moving, all gaskets in great shape.  Car runs fine if I feed fuel directly to the carburettor and ignore the fuel pump.  The one thing that has changed is that I can't feather the throttle to encourage it to run when connected to the fuel pump and this coincides with the pump getting very, very quiet.  I think I fitted that pump about four years ago, maybe five, and I shan't be fitting another in-tank one.  Instead I'll fit either the mechanical pump when I can find it, or a decent electric one either down by the tank under the car, or up at the front in the engine bay.  I know I can draw fuel through the in-tank pump no problem having had to do it before.
It's not that removing the pump/sender is difficult on the Princess, it really isn't, it's just impossible to seal the fuel tank up afterwards due to the sealing ring not being very good.  Custom fuel tank is a bit of a false economy too since the tank doesn't have any other issues at present. 

[vulgalour]

It's also video day today, so here's another Lanchester instalment.

[glenanderson]

👍 for the relatively easy fix.

[SilverMachine]

could modern e10 fuel have caused the pump issues? don't know if you have used it though! it never hurts to pop a su carb apart for a little service and lube! symptoms did sound to me like an air leak or blocked idle jet, so id probably would have struggled with this one! seems we have some nice tinkering weather at the moment, just remember to stay hydrated and try and stay in the shade!

[westbay]

When you decide where to fit your electric pump don't forget to get the appropriate type i.e.

next to tank - low suck high output
in engine compartment - high suck lower output

[vulgalour]

Sept 6, 2023 10:03:59 GMT SilverMachine said:

could modern e10 fuel have caused the pump issues?

Unlikely, I've been running it on E5.  I think the culprit is more likely a combination of the car stood around not doing much (even though it was started up every couple of weeks and was fine until I'd actually finished the brake job, typically) and new parts.  New parts are always a bit of a crapshoot on the quality front and I'd rather the pump died at home on the drive than, say, the middle of the Dartford Tunnel.

westbay : If I can't find the mechanical one and do fit an electric, I was considering using an MGB SU pump.  Similar sort of demands to the O series I would have thought so should be well suited and it's readily available.  Locate it in as similar a location as I can to the MGB and I should be golden.  They are rather more pricey than I'd expected so I do hope I can find where I put the mechanical pump as that's a completely free fix instead.

[westbay]

If it's been stood for a protracted time then seals, diaphrams , rubber items will have been soaking nicely ratehr than a normal 'washing' when in use ...


MGB = Good , cost possibly 'scene tax' ...

Morris 1000 one in engine compartment could be option ...

Both can be converted from 'points' operation to electronic.

[vulgalour]

Would the Morris 1000 be enough for a 1700cc engine? When I got the car, the electric pump that was fitted in the engine bay couldn't keep up with fuel demand all the time, something I discovered while overtaking in German Car lane of the M1 and is not an experience I wish to repeat.

[jamesd1972]

I've used one of these on the LR:
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/facet-posi-flow-electric-fuel-pump-kit-1-5-4-psi-60104-fep04sv
And its worked fine fitted near the tank so worth a look.
James

[kevins]

I've got one of those black facet ones on my elan and the older version on the TR7V8, both run great.

[vulgalour]

If I go electric, that actually looks a sensible option, there's good space at the back to fit it in, I might just get someone else to do the wiring for me though, I'm not that confident about the wiring especially after the Lanchester palaver.

Alternatively, if I can't find the mechanical pump I've put Somewhere Safe, a new one of those is less than £20, bolts straight on, and requires no wiring. I know it's up to the task from previous experience and reliable, the only issue is getting the mating surfaces to seal properly to prevent the oil weep they tend to get.

Got me some options now, that's the important thing.

[kevins]

The wiring should be dead easy as you already have an electric pump, the facet pumps just have the 1 live and an earth connection almost certainly the same as you already have.

[vulgalour]

You underestimate my ability to make a meal of even the most simple wiring job.

As it happens, I went with what is for me the easier route which is ordering a new pump and spacer block. I have looked in every place the old mechanical pump and spacer I know I have should be and can't find it. Rather than worrying about getting the wiring wrong, I've gone for the mechanical pump because I know it's a reliable solution and one that I can install. It was also only £21 for the pump, the spacer, and the gaskets so financially it makes a lot of sense too. Only real downside is it takes a little bit longer to crank fuel up to the engine than an electric and they do have a habit of weeping a little oil but I can live with that.

[SilverMachine]

another thought, if your now using superunleaded its possible the timing may need a tweak, assuming you were previously using standard unleaded? or maybe I'm remembering wrongly?
but you have sorted the idling problem so probably just disregard this!

[vulgalour]

I've been using E5 and equivalent for quite a while, Princess doesn't run quite as happily on regular and E5 seems to prevent the running on in hot weather so I'm happy that the timing is about as it should be. I think this is just a case of parts failing as parts do.

[vulgalour]

Good news! A solution to the cause of the Lanchester sale has presented itself and it is no longer for sale. What a relief.

Apologies if you wanted to buy it.

[TravellingNigel]

Excellent news.
Very pleased for you :-)

[generallee]

That is good news indeed.

[kevins]

Great news,