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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,350
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Looking good, always look forward to seeing updates on this one Have you considered offsetting the shocks so they overlap? That way they don't have to meet in the centre and you could reduce the height of your shock tower a little. It looks like the pushrod is meeting the rocker at less than 90°, which would be helped by the shortening the tower as well. EDIT: looking for an image online, it appears no one does this. However, a lot of them use shorter shocks than it looks like you have in mind. The additional benefit of this is that you can lower your headlight slightly and still disguise the tower top
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Thanks mylittletony, Really happy with how it's taking shape. I quite like the towers being as big as they are, I feel it's in proportion to the rest of the setup. The motor is HUGE and doesn't hide away at all in the engine bay which I also love. haha damn that motor is big. Certainly not in capacity though as it's tiny vs some of the 9+ litre big block V8s in the workshop. The real moment of truth will be when it's sat on the deck with the wheels on. Once the shocks have arrived and the rockers are made... Steering column is also on it's way or as good as and the fuel tank is being talked about at the moment... Lots of exciting things going on!
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Thank you for all your comments.
Ralph didn't really know what was happening on the front end as I bombarded him with pics and info I just asked him to trust me and if he didn't like it I'd change it for him. With that said I didn't send him any build pics until I was happy. Yes I could have made the towers smaller made the shocks smaller but as Ralph said the motor is enormous. Also the falcrums are the same radius as the head lights. The idea being that the lights sit in front of the falcrums and there in turn going to be anodised black. The shocks will sit between the motor and rad. All done to make you look twice when you see it. Also primarily this is a street driven car so should be soft and fluffy while having the ability to be pout into animal mode should he feel the need. Reading between the lines I think Ralph sort of likes my ideas
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Build the dream
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I like the way the proportions of the suspension relate to the engine/body/and I'm assuming wheels and tires eventually...I can kinda picture it in my mind...
very nice...and wow...fab skills!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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I like the way the proportions of the suspension relate to the engine/body/and I'm assuming wheels and tires eventually...I can kinda picture it in my mind... very nice...and wow...fab skills! JP Thank you 07lilredwagon I try to make each build as different as possible giving the owners individuality
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Build the dream
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Looking at the design of the upper and lower "A" arms and the use of rose joints instead of ball joints, it looks to me as though that might be a potential weak spot. Of course, not being an engineer I could be wrong, but it looks weaker than just using the spindle straight to the A arms via ball joints.
Great thread though and thoroughly enjoying out
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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Thanks 07lilredwagon it was all part of the master plan! insaneron is doing a cracking job of the fabrication and I'm really pleased with how my vision is coming together. Hi Rebel, I know what you mean about the rose joints mounting on to the Mustang ii uprights, does look a bit 'different' shall we say, but the rose joint pins that replace the ball joints were designed to do just what they are doing. It's certainly not something that's seen very often and only time well tell if they make a very big difference. Either way I will keep everyone updated once she's rolling! It's a little engineering adventure!
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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I'm struggling to see why the bottom arm needs a rose joint to connect to the spindle when the inner pickups are adjustable? If the pushrod is going to connect to the back of the boss that takes the joint will put some serious loads on the welds as it will be trying to twist the boss . It just looks odd to me as the rod is usually a lot closer to the upright
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Hi Guys, I'm along tome lurker on here, some great projects on this forum, whether it be the miss guided tinkerings of a enthusiastic amateur , or some of the stuff that would put a pro shop to shame.
To qualify the next bit of this post. I'm a time served engineer, with 20 years pro motorsport experience.
I had to register to post about that front suspension set-up. I think the builder really needs to have a serious rethink about what he's doing. I know it's not finished but please please get a proper engineer to look at your design before you spend anymore time on it.
I don't know what grade or gauge of materials you're using so I'll not pass comment on that.
The geometry is questionable, but aside from the lack of castor, it'll work fine for a road car.
Bolts in single sheer, lot's of people will shout and scream that that bad, well it's not ideal, but use the right size bolts and you'll get away with it.
But the bottom wishbone and outer rose joint. Forget that idea. That will hurt someone.
Sorry for such a negative first post, but it needed to be said.
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I know nothing about engineering, suspension geometry or any of that, but I'd just like to say that superdunc knows what they are talking about and have taken the time to be constructive in their post (of course now I want them to post up the cars they work on (having abused my admin privileges and checked out their business from their email address (sorry))).
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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When I re built the front suspension on the kitten I got it drawn up in solid works to see how it worked over the full travel before starting anything . I'm lucky the rod uses a well tried and tested setup from a seven replica so the only issue was rack length and plecement From the pictures the arms look parallel at the chassis end so might pull the upright into positive camber in bump
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I know nothing about engineering, suspension geometry or any of that, but I'd just like to say that superdunc knows what they are talking about and have taken the time to be constructive in their post (of course now I want them to post up the cars they work on (having abused my admin privileges and checked out their business from their email address (sorry))). Thanks for validating my credentials Hotwire
I have to be careful with posting stuff we work on social media and the like, a lot of our customers prefer it if we are discrete about what works been done to there cars. Maybe one day.
I did think, long and hard about posting, I hate to bad mouth other peoples work, especially in public. These forums are great source of knowledge, inspiration and ideas. But not everyone knows a good idea fro a bad one.
I know opinions are like ermm... belly buttons everyone has one, and is entitled to it. Engineering principles are a bit more set in stone though.
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I have to be careful with posting stuff we work on social media and the like, a lot of our customers prefer it if we are discrete about what works been done to there cars. Maybe one day. That is a good point, damn these people and their secrecy
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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Not much going on with the build this week, my tail lights arrived! They have been on the slow boat from China for quite some time but what do you expect for free shipping! Pretty happy with them, I have 4 so going to take the red lenses out of two of them and replace with some smoked perspex and fit amber bulbs and turn them in to indicators. Should be easy enough! you can keep the red lenses, and use green bulbs to give an orange flash.
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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Just want to say thanks to froggy superdunc @hotwire Rebel (and anyone else, sorry if I've missed you) for taking the time to comment and not just with the usual internet keyboard warrior dross, so I do appreciate the feedback. There are some things we will take a look at and as you suggest, this is still being worked on so of course all feedback is taken constructively and is welcomed at all times. Also, village that's a pro tip! That in fact may be a winning idea there. Keeps them reflective that way too.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Id draw a line under the lot and start again if it was me . Google suspension string computer to do a card mockup as you have the uprights and chassis width to scale off and if it isn't super low you could attach the lower arms under the chassis to get the unequal length without having to shorten the upper arms . If you've chosen a steering rack will dictate the inner pickups to some degree and I had to narrow my rack to get the bump steer right . I've had a few things pointed out to me that I'd overlooked worst being the steering shaft U.J angles .
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Thanks for taking my comments as feedback, I rewrote it a couple of times before posting because it read like I was being cheeky, I'm really glad it came across as constructive feedback, I'd hate to upset or alienate anyone.
This lifestyle of hot rodding, customising and restoring is so satisfying and very often amazing that we all want to enjoy it, but I'm sure everyone would agree that no one wants to see anyone get hurt
Looking forward to the rest of the build
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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The chap in the states with the rod pictured a few pages back sent me a better pic of his front end and it's the way I'm going to go with mine
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Thanks for all the advice guys, you will all be pleased to know we are going ball joints up front now. Whilst re thinking the arms, couldn't help but plonk the car on the deck... Still waiting on the front struts to arrive along with the fuel tank and a few other bits. Going to be a little quiet for this year on the build as there is loads going on but I will slip in the odd update when I can get some work done on the car.
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