foxy99
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Nov 25, 2023 13:57:02 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 25, 2023 13:58:40 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Nov 28, 2023 16:31:03 GMT
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So I'm now repairing more fiddly bits. Still on the tailgate but will be using same technique on the longer boards if this works out ok, which I think it will. So board #2 which hasn't had any repairs yet had most of the bottom of its outer edge missing but the inner was fine. Instead of cutting the whole bottom off I used a wide router bit to remove all the rotten bit. This produces a really clean edge to work to so afterwards it was just a case of cutting a thin piece of wood of a suitable length and gluing/clamping it into the space left by the routing operation. The only issue was I cut it too short (looked at wrong pen mark on the new wood) and I didn't want to find another piece so I just stuck it in with the bit that I cut short in error. Once it's dried all I need to do is shave the new piece flush with the original board then put a groove back in it. To make things more interesting I have included a pic from when I bought the trailer in August showing the board(s) I'm posting about here working on bottom of board 2 right now ![](https://i.imgur.com/LPladny.jpg) decayed part removed neatly with router inner face of same board is still sound new piece of (oversize) wood offered up including my error cutting it too short after marking correctly new piece glued and clamped in
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2023 16:31:26 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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I didn't risk routering the last repaired bit tonight after taking the clamps off as the excess glue is still soft. It is like -3 degrees (or -1 when it's warmer) the now so that won't help and mb the glue only dries when there is no air about (as it stays soft in bottle) but I wasn't taking any chances and started on another bit. This is the 2nd-from-bottom board from the front panel (#3). I said the front wasn't bad but this board had a lot of rot on its upper edge and you're wondering what the hell you are doing trying to save a bit of scrap wood but after cutting the rot out (with saw) you can see how sound it is. I didn't use the router here as it was soft right thru but also because my router only cut's a certain distance in and this board needed more than that removed. Doing the cut with a saw meant a lot more time spent afterwards (with a plane) trying to get very clsoe fit between the old wood and the new - which did have a straight edge. It was part of a rafter or similar from an old building that I got months ago and used to repair my lock-up door frame. The slither that came off it was ideal for this repair. Interestingly after planing the very old wood it looked just like some cheapo CLS stuff from B&Q. Anyway I got it done and it's now glued and clamped so the queue of bits to be repaired is slowly going down and am now thinking I could use (dark) wax on the wood rather than varnish or paint. They seem to use that all the time on Salvage Hunters etc but I've never had any and too tight to buy various tubs to experiment ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) working on #3 board from front panel now outer face of board doesn't look too bad![](https://i.imgur.com/FkyEfU4.jpg) ![](https://i.imgur.com/MJTGm1j.jpg) but other side tells a different story rot cut out shows surprisingly sound wood remains new piece cut from remains of ancient rafter glued & clamped - other side shows old wood planed looks like cheap pine now
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2023 1:01:52 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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So I did a bit more on the boards yesterday and today. It's taking a lot of determination as the weather was vile today and my feet were soaked right thru from some earlier activity but I got a new bit fitted to the lower edge of the top board from the tailgate. Yesterday I planed down the last 2 repairs (which were board #2 from the tailgate and board #3 from the front panel) and am very pleased with the way they turned out. They still need to be routered tho (for the T&G aspect). Today was doubly depressing as I spent the afternoon helping the Gaffer empty decades of junk from the loftspace above the barn opposite mine. A lot of it was his deceased son's old stuff plus loads of wet materials from an unfinished project at re-roofing that barn and making a bit 'recording studio' in the attic. I know I could fix all the leaks in the slate roof and it would be a brilliant space for me to move all my motorbikes into but there's no time for all these sort of plans now due to his age so basically it was just freezing, wet, futile-feeling day but I forced myself back into the container to continue repairing scrap wood and trying not to think about the other 6 cars, 8 motorbikes, 3 pushbikes and 3 trailers that I will do up 'one day' ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) But yeah the bit I worked on today is the piece which had its split top section glued back on but has 2 bad/missing areas on the bottom edge so I started with the longest one, cut it out as square as I could and cut another bit from the old rafter and glued it in and clamped it. As I keep saying the list of bits to repair keeps getting smaller and There's not much left to do on the frame so it could be all back together this month. I actually found myself working on the trailer frame yesterday. As I was grinding away at the rust on the inner rails the Gaffer came in (to see if I'd help clear the hayloft today) and said 'what you doing?' 'Em wasting my time?' 'Are you not freezing?' 'yeah but it'll be like this till March and I'm not sitting in my flat freezing instead' But yeah I need to weld the rear upright back on (pics not posted yet of it removed as they are in my new camera internal memory and I don't have date-transfer cable for it), finish painting it and stick the axle back on then fit the wood and we're done. end view of repair to bottom of #2 tailgate board which had rot cut out with router same piece. new wood was not full thickness of board as only one face was soft quite pleased that repair to bottom edge didn't need to go past the click-a-print thing ![](https://i.imgur.com/b4BHAa9.jpg) very pleased with how new wood spliced in to the groove part of this board ![](https://i.imgur.com/2d8azb7.jpg) repair to top edge of #3 front board differed as it was full thickness. Fr & Rr shown groove needs to be routered in bad bit cut out of bottom edge of top tailgate board and new piece ready to glue in glued and clamped
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2023 20:49:39 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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So a bit more done today. It was colder today but totally dry and we finished gutting the hayloft so things felt a bit cheerier. The hayloft would be a brilliant (3rd) workspace for me but I think it would only be fair to have to pay more rent and I'm kind at my limit (£70pw - which is £3650 a year!). It's about 40 foot long and mb 20 wide. 15' anyway but the eaves of the original roof are quite low so there isn't a huge amount of headroom at the sides. Apologies for anyone who doesn't know what I'm on about with the Gaffer and The Barn but I've mentioned it so many times on other threads that I assume everyone knows. unfinished hayloft conversion after taking 3 trailer loads of junk from it to dump dark picture despite 4 large Velux windows and huge vertical window being thereSo, yeah I got the bits from 29th-4th routered but no photos as still need to put 45 degree chamfer on the edges and also the first sort of half-thickness rot-routered repair on one of the long side boards. I mentioned above that my router wasn't deep enough to cut as far into the board as I wanted to but found a way round it today.... The adjustable plastic fence on the router looks kinda fancy but it's effectively nothing and is actually not straight (it bows inwards slightly). So I took it off completely and replaced it with a bit of CLS clamped to the table. This was a false start tho as it wasn't wide enough to offer much adjustment without slipping out the clamps. I therefore changed it for a flat board (one of the ones for the green trailer made from reclaimed doors) and it worked fine. Just like the repair on one of the short boards I routered the rot out the soft face but left the good face intact. As I was going down I could see, and smell, that the wood was sound so didn't even go as afar over this time. After that it was just a case of gluing in a thin bit of wood carefully cut to size and gluing/clamping it. I've just about run out of glue so will need to get some more as there still several bits to deal with one of the first boards I worked on. started cutting full thickness of rotten edge out with saw before realising could just remove rot with router plastic 'fence' removed from router table to get more 'depth' CLS clamped on the use as fence CLS gives too big a gap flat board gives a little more scope for adjustment and more suitable gap for this job clamped board to give approx 35mm from outer edge of board to outer edge of blade which matches roughly what I wanted to remove from board 1st (shallow) pass is pretty close to my inked line![](https://i.imgur.com/G2Wh35p.jpg) cut with router is much truer than doing with saw new bit glued in and clamped
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Last Edit: Dec 5, 2023 23:34:29 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 14, 2023 21:22:34 GMT
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So I've had the work on the trailer interrupted a little as the tax & MOT are out on my car and on Saturday (4 days ago) I started dealing with several things I have needed to do to it. As it was in bits and waiting on a part coming I ended up pulling the turbo out on Tuesday night, to clean it. Been wanting to do this for over 2 years but thought it would be one of those jobs that could go badly wrong so kept putting it off. It took around 7 hours to get it out but that was outside in the dark and rain and I think that slowed me down. Anyway. The point of it is I returned to work on it last night and couldn't get the 2 halves of the turbo apart and having walked over an hour to get there I had to do something to make the journey worth it so turned back to the trailer-boards. I finished planing & routering the last 2 repairs including putting a chamfer on the edges of all the boards which have had new 'groove' parts put in. Doesn't seem to be as many on the 'tongue' edges. Once that was done I had to pick the next bit to tackle and plumped for one of the boards from the front panel. The top outer edge of board #2. This is a tongue edge and it doesn't strictly need fixed as the tongue is still there and strong but for some reason the shoulder (?) below it was all missing but no signs of rot. It just looked bad. I'm getting used to these repairs now so just cut out enough with a wide router bit down part of the thickness of the board and glued/clamped new piece in. As the bit going in didn't need to be thick I spent most of the night planing it down to just thicker than it needs to be. I didn't have a new bottle of glue so cut the old one open to find enough. and more, to do this repair. Once it's dried it will be easy to router down as I'm not actually recreating a tongue or groove. Despite having two good cameras with me I didn't get many (any?) good pics last night. I'd forgotten the memory card for the 12.1mp camera that I've been using last couple of weeks and had actually taken my best 14.1 camera down which I've not really used yet so turned to that and it didn't go well at all. The battery was low and all sorts of weird things were happening and I couldn't find a macro function on it (all my other cameras have had that) but had to persevere as the memory card in it doesn't fit in the other one. And the batteries don't swap. trailer repairs interrupted bu removal of turbo from my daily repair needed here top (tongue) edge of board is sound but a large part of shoulder seems to have split off damaged/worn part of board cut out and loaded with glue need to get more glue shavings from creating a thin repair piece which is now glued/clamped in
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Dec 16, 2023 16:21:20 GMT
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So the repairs continue - as I'm still having no luck opening the turbo ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png) I keep saying it but I am getting there with the board repairs. Last night I went back to board #3 of the tailgate, which am sure will be the board with the most repairs done. It has already had 2 new bits put in but at the bottom edge was missing the outer parts of the groove on both faces. A long bit on the outer face and a shorter bit on the inner. So it was just a case of routering out the rot again (on both sides) then gluing in 2 thin strips of wood. I could have cut out the full thickness of the board but found doing this previously you don't get such a neat line as you do with the router bit. Also didn't spend ages planing down a thick piece of wood to make thin repair pieces. Instead I sawed a bit of wood lengthwise to make two thinner bits. Was using the 14.1mp camera again and it was working fine with a charged battery in it but still getting rubbish close-up pics. I had a look at the instruction manual online (Sony Cybershot DSC-W370) and couldn't find any reference to Macro Shooting. On all my other cameras there is a button for macro (looks like a flower) and the cameras usually self-macro if you go up close to the subject. The flower icon appears in the LCD automatically. Think I'll need to revert back to the other camera and use this one for my work - where I don't need macro. I also got the long repair from previous post planed down last night (outer face, top edge of board #2 from front panel). It's looking good and just needs a little routering to make the groove correct width and add the chamfer on its edge turbo still not separating from manifold despite introduction of heat dealing with this bit now. also similar on other side but shorter length work needed on lower edge of outer face and same on inner face inner face after routering and same on outer face thin repair pieces made by sawing a bit of wood down middle rather than using plane outer repair glued and clamped and inner repair to board #2 from front panel planed level
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2023 16:24:03 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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May 12, 2024 23:44:40 GMT
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So... I've not touched this in months (won't even bother going into reasons why) but last night I did the last bit of welding on the frame. I have probably already posted about the repair but I still needed to weld the upright back on to the horizontal bits and I did that then ran out of gas part way thru the welding. I also have some green oil-based paint on its way for the boards and hope to be finishing the repairs to them this week coming. I was going on about wax and/or trying to preserve the patina of the sanded boards but when I saw yesterday that rust was starting to poke its way back thru the blue Hammerite on some of the metal parts ot sort of made my mind up for me: Why waste more time and effort on something that going to look like curse word after every winter? So I think I'll just slap the paint on the boards. Get some more coats of Hammerite on and put the axle etc back on and that's job done. final upright welded back on to trailer frame shielding gas ran out part way thru the job
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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Last Edit: May 17, 2024 22:08:02 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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So that's everything now had a coat of primer and I got some undercoat. Went for grey as I figured white would grin thru the topcoat too much. I was amazed at how much dearer grey is than white for the exact same product from same brands but after looking at all of them (Dulux, Leyland, Johnstones, Macphersons etc) I went for Armstead which was only £11 something for 1L. The 750ml/1L range were all expensive in comparison the the 2.5L options from each manufacturer but I can't see me using 2.5L of undercoat any time soon so stuck with the smaller size. I also steered away from any quick-dry (water-based or special 'flexible' types) and have used Armstead before and it seems fine. There's no real way of telling how one is performing over a decade or so compared to others so you have to guess what's best at end of day. I noticed that the primer has rally sunk in on the new bare repair-patches and probably isn't much use on top of old paint so I am giving the new bits 2 coats and will just do one on the original (painted) bits. I was keen to try the undercoat so got it on one board last night which didn't have any new wood in it. It looked rather good so am looking fwd to getting the gloss on now. primer seems to vanish on new wood Armstead (solvent based) grey undercoat £11 looks very dark when tin opened after stirring/shaking thoroughly all boards primed both side and undercoat tried on one board
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Last Edit: May 25, 2024 13:44:22 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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May 29, 2024 11:56:21 GMT
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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May 30, 2024 23:26:17 GMT
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So... we're possibly on the home-strait with this ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) I got the welder fixed - which was fantastic - and finished welding on the little bracket for the tailgate then finished the inside welds for the last upright repaired. It's too late now but the way it was originally welded is all wrong. Seen a video on YouTube of something where the 3 sections joining are all cut at an angle so that the pieces can be butt-welded together instead of piled on top of one another creating rust traps. After dismantling two MIG torches and the regulator for the gas bottle it turns out the problem was caused by the nylon seal in the regulator going all frayed. I picked those bits off, put it all back together and now it's working great As for the boards... everything has had its 2 coats of undercoat now apart from the last repair which has only had one. I finally got to try the green top-coat ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Most of the boards had had their 2nd undercoat a day or so ago so I scuffed all those ones and got some green on. Looked pretty good when I left tonight in rush to catch Tescos at 11pm but we'll see how it looks tomorrow. I actually got sidetracked most of the day building some shelves in the container. Used all the wood I saved from a sofa and chairs that I was tasked with taking to the dump. I just got the basic structure done today and all the stuff piled on top in the pic won't be a permanent fixture Also broke out my new (bigger) tin of Hammerite 'hammered-not-hammered' blue and put some on the trailer. It looks a little darker and a little more hammered (perhaps) than the stuff I used a couple of months ago but mb that's just cos it's wet and hasn't got dusty/rusty ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) this was cause of welder not working sorted? bracket welded back on to upright some paint on bits just worked on tops of uprights were pretty much rust-free making some shelves in the container all boards bar one have had 2 undercoat. one in middle has 1st coat scuffed ready for 2nd 1st (thin) coat of top-coat
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Last Edit: May 31, 2024 22:07:18 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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So. There's quite a bit to write so I'll break it down into small chunks. Start with the seals and bearings from the wheels. As you can see in the pics there is loads of grease in there so someone must have looked after it. I initially tried to lever the seals out but couldn't get anything in between the bearing and the seal so instead just drove the seals out by drifting the bearing from the other side. The seals seem to have been fitted to wrong way round. IE with the open side facing outwards. The other side with the markings on it has been facing the bearing and as a result I can't make out the digits. It looks like M1614 appears more than once and there is something else (all letters possibly) that I can't work out. Googling M1614 or ML614 or MI614 didn't throw anything up so I measured them and this is easy for the OD and thickness but a bit more trick for the ID as the vernier says you need to add 7.62mm or .3" to the reading to get your true figure. I still find it quite difficult to read the Imperial scale on the vernier as it's in 10ths of an inch but your recognisable fractions are in 16ths so after a lot of double-checking, trying it on the metric scale, using conversion tables etc I was settling on 1.365" which translates to 1 3/8". The OD is 2" and they are 3/8" thick. Interestingly I found when looking at listings that some are listed in the Imperial decimal instead of the fractions. Like the ones I plumped for in the end were listed as 137-200-37. One final issue with the ID is that the seals are deformed so you get varying readings depending on which bit of the opening you measure. So that's 2 seals ordered for £6.84 all in (£2.66 each for the seals plus £2 P&P) The bearings were a bit easier at 1" ID, 2"OD and 3/8" thick but there were loads of options to chose from with prices from about £4 each to £20 each. The bearings also had markings on them: possibly SKF (maker) plus HYLD and LYLD (which I could find nothing for) but EE9 was clearly visible more than once over the 4 bearings. I assumed this was metal type or hardness but turns out it is the size. Like you get EE and EE8 but EE9 is 1" x 2" x 3/8". I found a trailer place selling a set of four for £19.95 (posted) so that's them ordered too I was initially thinking I could just wash the bearings out and re-pack them with fresh grease but I definitely felt a wobble (side to side) when the wheels were on the axle recently. Now this could be worn bearings but it could also be due to a worn axle/shaft which would be out of my scope for fixing. To check this I put the bearings back on the axle and there is a definite rock on the outer race in relation to the inner but the play between the inner race and the shaft seemed imperceptible so I may have got away with it. Will find out when the new bearings arrive seal edging out by drifting bearing from behind this side of seal was facing inwards and markings are worn. possibly says M1614 other seal also had open side facing out but is less damaged can only really make out GT BRITAIN and EE9 on this bearing this one I think I see SKF and HYLD on it
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
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When I go the trailer it seemed there was a lot going on on the tailgate. It seemed to have screws and bits of extra wood everywhere plus the cheapo lightboard plus some metal things over the lights plus the rot and all the different types of paint. Now that it's all fixed and I've offered the boards back up to the tailgate frame I can see the bolt holes in the original wood align no probs and I don't really need anything else. Still got the little click-a-print tape with the 'payload' warning on it and I did find a witness-mark for an oval badge/sticker so I'm going to put a GB of SCO plate there but other than lights I didn't plan to have anything else on it. I had kept the bits of wood that were screwed on and had a closer look at them. None of the screws matched and there were no traces of paint matching the trailer's previous colours. It looked more like varnish/woodstain that was on the odd bits. I therefore class them as for the bin but why were they there? Well it looks like the bits at top were perhaps to protect the top of tailgate from hitting the ground and the other 2 were for holding the lightboard. "I'll not be needing them"So I got the lightboard out and decided it would look much cleaner to bin the white plastic bit and just have the lights straight on to the wood. I neatly unpicked the wiring then reconnected it to the lights but then I started seeing my problem - and the reason the previous guy had made up the wooden things. The lights seemed very close together to me and I assumed this was because it's a small trailer but I realise now they are set apart at the width of a number-plate so that the (white) lights on the sides shine on the plate. They are too close together to fit either side of the metal uprights on the tailgate frame so I think "that's no probs. I'll just extend the wiring a few inches" and then it dawns on me that if I do that the lights may be too far away from the plate but, more importantly, they won't shine any light on the plate as the metal frame will be between the lights and the plate. So I have a bit of thinking to do. Do I make new (better) blocks for the number-plate and lamps, or even make a metal frame for them? Or I could get separate lights (like on a car) to sit above or below the plate? tailgate when I bought trailer it also had large reflectors above/behind the lightboard very close together tailgate boards meet frame again what were these for? ah. lightboard fits in here because lightboard can't really sit on frame discarding plastic bit lamps still won't sit outside of frame
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Given the age of the trailer originally maybe the lights were fitted to the outside of the trailer on the little 'wing' plus there wouldn't have been a requirement for the number plate to be illuminated. Considering the narrowness of the gap between the lights you have now, would a square number plate be better.
Colin
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Last Edit: Jun 6, 2024 13:16:47 GMT by colnerov
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foxy99
Posted a lot
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Posts: 1,440
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That's some good points there colnerovI just looked back on some posts on this thread from last summer and can see in the brochure-pics I posted that the trailer catalogue showed images of a number-plate lamp above the reg'y and 2 sort of narrow horizontal car-style lights. Would be nice to get that sort of thing but I'm not sure I have the time to track it all down. A customer I worked for recently gave me a bag of trailer lamps (and other vehicle stuff) that I've not really looked at but I think they were too big and modern for this ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png)
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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