foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
Not a great deal of progress as I've still not found shoes or a new turnbuckle but I did notice in the B&Q catalogue that they sell the brackets for the wire cable... I've now got my 2nd Dunlop wheel and am continuing to scrape the paint off the 2nd set of mudguards recently-acquired Dunlop 1161 rim. £13 plus £8 P&P
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2016 18:50:27 GMT
|
cool thread! I get really interested in odd little things like specific lugs and the little ratchet that is on your hitch mechanism, so this i right up my alley!! good luck with the rest o the resto!
|
|
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 31, 2017 1:26:27 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
ell it's been a while but I've always kept my Ebay search on and suddenly a bunch of bits popped up for the heavy trailer at start of thread. I'll add more later but basically for £47 I've got new shoes, LH & RH 'expanders', shoe-springs and a couple of rubbers.
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
The shoes aren't exactly right but will perhaps work as the effective dimensions are the same. The original have Lockheed stamped on them and the linings were rivetted on. These new ones are bonded on and have no stamps but I've seen them for sale quite often for mb £18 odd. As the seller I got these from on Ebay had other pukka bits for sale I figured they must be compatible and made an offer of £8 instead of the £12.20 he had as starting price. He countered with £10 so I bought them as even if they are wrong I could perhaps re-line he originals shoes with the lining material (if I could get it off!). I've considered sending the shoes away for re-lining by professionals before but would they know what spec lining to put on? Sounds daft but mb they'd need to know make/model of vehicle and 'trailer' might not be sufficient. I need to have more faith in ppl lol The differences in the shoes are the holes where the springs attach are in a different orientation and also the bits that contact the 'expanders' have a different shape new shoes v originals. slot & holes on RHS look same but holes on LHS are differently placedsome differences here too. leading ends of shoes have different shape but overall dimensions look correct curvature looks correctlining was rivetted on originals but not on new ones
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
May 24, 2023 20:46:08 GMT
|
I'm going backwards while going forwards here but will try to keep it simple. On this old thread I've talked about 2 trailers I have and assumed I'd posted about the 3rd one too, as I got it in 2018. However it was actually on this thread that I posted about it Basically I bought it to use as a bogey for towing a large engine-crane to and from my lock-up. Turns out I didn't need to do it as I got the engine out ( Jag V12) from underneath the car. However I am now about to use it for something kinda similar, kinda different... I'm working on my Hillman Imp (pick-up) and, desperate for some more of its early history, have decided it will be a good idea to get the original engine running on a stand and take it on a trailer back to the place I bought it and see if I can find the previous owners/custodians of the car. Would be nice to show them some progress and it might spark some feedback. So the trailer is a lightweight frame with one mudguard and a weird hitch arrangement. The drawbar on the trailer is 2" x 1" and someone welded-up some angle-iron to form a box over this and that was bolted to the drawbar then another long nut/bolt & washers were used to attach it to the tow-vehicle. Bit weird but I guess it worked for the last owner. When I bought it the was a spare (1.75"?) drawbar thrown in with a proper hitch welded to it. I guess someone had plans to improve on the hitch thing. That job now falls to me. So the first thing I did was separate the proper hitch from its bar and I reckoned I could splay it out or slit the 2" drawbar to hammer it on then bolt it up or whatever. Knowing the trailer has quite small wheels I figured it would be low to the ground and measured the distance from my tow-ball to the road. There was a difference of about 7" between that and where the trailer drawbar would sit so I figured it might be better if the hitch wasn't a tight fit down on the drawbar. If it was just bolted on top I'd reduce the distance by a couple of inches at least remains of lightweight trailer bought in 2018 for £19.99 spare drawbar with hitch welded on was included in sale home-brewed 'box' was fabricated to bolt onto trailer drawbar long bolt used to attach trailer to vehicle hitch separated from spare drawbar by cutting welds spare drawbar minus hitch hitch is tight fit on 2" wide drawbar but might work better if mounted on top hitch placed under drawbar shows hole on hitch aligns with small extra hole on drawbar holes on hitch align with 2 of 3 holes on drawbar need to drill out (top & bottom) to 12mm length of original bolts in drawbar if mounting hitch on top of drawbar need longer bolts bolt which was used for towing is suitable length hitch fits towball on car fine So that was my initial sort of approach but I then found that the hitch would actually fit over the drawbar if there were no weld beads left on it. I ground all that off and it fits on fine. Also checked the hitch fits my towball. It does and I now have the hitch bolted to the drawbar. Only 1 bolt as not drilled-out the holes for 2nd one yet. So I'm kinda good to go as far as getting the thing down to my workshop (barn). It's been taking up room in a lck-up for years and the lock-up has no electric so am thinking just try and tow it down and sort things better at the barn. Not sure how it will be with the 7" difference in nose-height but will see in next installment hitch from spare drawbar on trailer drawbar. would go with welds ground away properly welds ground down hitch now part of trailer
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 13, 2023 19:58:58 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
May 29, 2023 22:29:44 GMT
|
So I'm making good progress with this. I think the fact it only needs to look good for a day or so makes it easier but hey I'm still doing the best I can on it. I've always been suspicious of mechanical rust-removal thinking only blasting or electrolysis or chemicals can really remove rust but this thing it too big to dip and, as above, only needs to look good for a short time so I bought a twist-knot wire-brush to use on an angle-grinder. It was about £8 and i have to say am rather impressed with it. I can't see any rust after using it but, as above, I don't believe this means it has actually gone. I'm painting it with Hammerite hammered green which looks good but it's not hammered at all. It's metallic. I'm also using some old doors for the wood. I have had 3 '15-paners' taking up room in my lock-up for about 6 years and you cannot get rid of these things for free and they don't fit my flat so, thinking they were hardwood, I decided to use them for the box part of the trailer. I carefully removed all the beading and glass and tapped the doors apart and am left with 6 upright bits (7 foot?) and 6 horizontal bits (2 foot?). They have lots of gloss paint on top of the initial woodstain but I soon realised thay aren't actually hardwood. They are pine I think. The wood is also too thick and heavy to use as it so I've decided to cut them down the middle to make thinner planks, which will also double the amount of wood I have. The problem with this is that it's taking around 4 hours to split on long bit. I reckon It's about an hour per foot of wood to saw it. I have at my disposal all sort of saws but, as with routing, they are no good at cutting things without a dedicated fence and these bit of wood are long and thin and hard to keep vertical so I think I have to hand-saw it all. I did try cutting one of the short bits on a radial arm saw which cuts logs etc no problem but it seemed to struggle with this. Maybe it is hardwood but it certainly doesn't look like it. removing glass from old doors doors sans tops, bottoms and sides wood to be used for the trailer sawing one of the horizontals down the middle sawing a vertical down the middle one thick horizontal becomes 2 thin pieces longer bit split to use on bottom of trailer unexpected 'face' appeared from door-handle area worth a try... metal looks clean hammered paint just looks metallic to me old hammered paint found on mudguards looks hammered
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 13, 2023 20:05:11 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
May 31, 2023 10:24:02 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 13, 2023 20:10:03 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
May 31, 2023 22:21:51 GMT
|
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,268
|
|
|
Of course there is interest. Pulls up a chair and puts on the kettle. Proceed.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
we've got one of a similar vintage, it looks like the chassis above yours in the yellow page with the A frame draw bar. Ours doesn't have any weight plates on it, I'd be interested in what they rated them as when new as I really should write something on it.
|
|
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
we've got one of a similar vintage, it looks like the chassis above yours in the yellow page with the A frame draw bar. Ours doesn't have any weight plates on it, I'd be interested in what they rated them as when new as I really should write something on it. I'll check the book. Mine is rated 4cwt, per the drawing
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
kevinsI checked the literature and for the chassis shape you have (single axle) the ratings are as follows: - GT4 5' x 3' - 6cwt
- GT6/GT8 6'6" x 4' - 900lbs
- GT10 6' 6" x 4' - 1450lbs
- GT12 8' 6" x 4' 6" - 1950lbs
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks I'll measure it, I think it's the 5'x 3' so 6cwt . It uses mini 10" wheels.
|
|
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
Not a huge update but I've finished sawing thru the wood to make planks for the bottom and have 2 long bits left which will be enough to do the sides. I've lost count of the hours it took to saw these but I bought one new saw for £5-something from Toolstation and binned lots of old ones I had in the process. (Why do people keep loads of old rusty saws!?) It was equivalent to sawing through a 16' long 'joist' about 4" wide but broken down into 4' sections I got used to it. There are enough offcuts to do the front and tailgate (if I make one) In other news I have found a decent 'slide-on' 8" rim on Gumtree for £15. Problem is it's 400 miles away and I'm not driving 800 miles to get it People don't usually post stuff advertised on Marketplace or Gumtree but the seller has kindly agreed to do so which has boosted my spirits a little. I fully expect it to be no use when it gets here (wrong bore? wrong hub-width? too lightweight?) but it's all I can see just now and I'm thinking I could be really stupid and cut the hub out of mine and weld it into the new, better, rim if it's not a straight fit. We shall see NB I put a new valve in the painted rim and the tyre went back on surprisingly easily so I got carried away and tried to put air in it but can't get the bead to seat sufficiently on the rim. Should have mb put the tube in or buy a new, more supple, tyre. If the Gumtree rim works out mb I'll buy a pair of new tyres enough slats for base, 1 good rim and 1 useless
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 5, 2023 23:48:33 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
Jun 11, 2023 16:46:36 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 11, 2023 23:30:14 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
Jun 16, 2023 23:13:12 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jun 19, 2023 8:43:36 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,443
|
|
|
So, as a break from the wheel conundrum, I'm busy on the wood again. I have a very cheap 'no-name' belt-sander which had no belt on it but there was a handy label on it telling you the size of the sheets required. Quick trip to Toolstation and £2.99 worse-off I had a pack of 60-grit belts and set about sanding the original woodstain off wood from the doors. I was in a bit of a rush so didn't get every spec off but actually quite like the finish and was thinking about doing the wood quite dark so whatever I put on should cover the bits that I missed. Thing is i don't know what to use on it. I'm not keen on painting the wood so was thinking could dye it and varnish it, or use a dark woodstain (like a coloured varnish) but I'm keen to use wax. Thing is it seems it's only for indoor use. I'm sure Henry Cole uses it on everything tho. The trailer will be kept inside anyway so I think I may look for some dark-oak or walnut wax. Anyway, last small point about the wheels situation - for now..... I was saying above the original hub/axle are metric (25mm?) but looking back at the brochures for these trailer it clearly shows 1" for the axle. It it was 1" the bearings in the new wheel should fit fine. It seems unlikely that the company would have moved from 1" axles to 25mm ones but I guess it's possible. handy info on no-name belt-sander got the long boards roughly sanded1st one looked pretty good not all finish removed on rest of boards axles on my trailer should be 1" diameter
|
|
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
|
|
|
|
|
Have you considered Danish oil to finish the timber?
|
|
|
|
|