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Then the outside.  I connected the two with 3/4" square at the spots where the triangulated tubes will weld to it, and where the tunnel will mount to it.  22Ga sheet.  23 2" holes , cut with a holesaw.  |
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Cut out.  So that is the top side.  The bottom side I did in 3 pieces.  |
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Top side tacked.  I cut 23 5/16" rings out of 2.25" exhaust tubing ( the dimple die opened the 2" holesaw holes to 2.25").  I tacked those on the dimples, and then I could get the underside sheet metal in place.  So here it is... In this pic its not fully welded yet, and the leading edge hasn't been cut out yet ( forgot to take pics ) Overall dimensions are about 3' x 4', a little over 3/4" thick, more than 60' of weld, total weight 11Lb.  |
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,126
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Aug 24, 2020 18:35:29 GMT
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That’s fantastic!
What is it?
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Aug 24, 2020 19:03:14 GMT
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Thanks guys. teaboy, its a stiffner for the enginebay. Basically, it completes the spaceframe down to the ( near ) horizontal level. Ideally I would have built a 4 sided trapezium off the lower edge of the bulkhead with a crosstube to triangulate it, but there was no room for that. The engine and gearbox stick partially through it, which made the triangulation impossible. I'm making it more difficult on myself because I'm trying to cram all this stuff into this tiny car, with as little wheelbase change as possible ( still had to lengthen it by about 2" ) I've started to cut & fit tubes and tacked it in, I'll take some pics later. I wish I'd taken some pics of it when it was completely welded ( its basically a big U shape, I left the leading edge in till the last moment to control warp ) , but I guess doing this in 105+ degree weather with no air conditioning is affecting me a little bit, and I forgot.  I was amazed at how stiff it is when I put some force across the open end of it... |
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,886
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Aug 24, 2020 20:55:22 GMT
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Can't beat a bit of fusilage tech for making things light and stiff when needing a hole to move things through - nice work.
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If you look at photos from when the prototype Miura chassis was first shown, this looks familiar (a high compliment!). Actually, this looks even better, more like when Miura's are restored nowadays and additional strengthening is added in.
Really blows my mind, your vision and capabilities. Bravo.
John
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Amazing! I´m sure you know how to get the motor out of it, because it looks impossible in the photos!
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It should drop straight down. I'll find out if I got that right in a couple of weeks, when I strip it down ( to finish the welds I cant get to right now and for paint). |
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Shifting mechanism is done and working. The gearbox is a Hewland Mk9, so it is a straight cut dog box. And you cant run that through the gears like a normal gearbox without the engine running. But first impressions are good. As far as I can tell, very precise & short throw but not too stiff to operate ( when it gets too heavy, it just beats your arms and elbows to pulp...)     |
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Aug 31, 2020 22:33:22 GMT
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..
Edited the wrong post here...
It was about some thoughts & planning forced induction.
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Aug 31, 2020 22:49:36 GMT
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From what I can find, a 1752 turbo is a replacement for a late '90's Saab.
Used a lot by Mini guys with the BMW K head conversion, seems happy at around 230Hp, which is about where I hope to be...
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Aug 31, 2020 23:01:29 GMT
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Would it be better to run the turbo with a charge cooler rather than an intercooler with it’s heat exchanger in front of the radiator. May make the packaging easier to alter when adding the turbo?
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Aug 31, 2020 23:12:00 GMT
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It would be a air to air intercooler mounted between the turbo and the engine, cooling down the boosted air. It would be mounted in the back of the car, with its own cooling air intakes ( a couple of NACA ducts behind the rear 1/4 windows ) and the air would exit in the back, at the Kamm Tail. The engine radiators ( I just ordered them, they should be on their way ) , will be sidemounted. Just ahead of the rear wheels. With their own cooling air intakes, the air exiting in the engine bay, which will dump into the same wake of the Kamm, behind the car. The only air intake I have planned right now at the front of the car is a cool air intake for the engine, at the base of the windshield ( high pressure point, for a little ram air effect ) |
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Radiators have arrived. Quick mockup.   |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Sept 21, 2020 18:30:27 GMT
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Interesting project! I cant quite get my head round why you need so much chassis tho!
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Sept 21, 2020 21:08:42 GMT
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The main cage is based on a FIA legal rollcage, with the minimum amount of tubes added to make it legal out here.
Its all the same size thickwall DOM tube, and the weight of it concerns me...
The small dia tube ( thinwall 3/4" )coming off that is to connect to the suspension pick up points and for triangulation, because despite all its weight, the main cage is surprisingly flexible.
I payed extra attention to building a rigid chassis, because of the experimental rear suspension.
That will put extra force onto the frame, and if it moves it could throw me off while I try to dial that in.
If I would have started from scratch, I could have made the main cage so it would have connected to the suspension pick up points more elegantly ( eliminating quite a bit of the thinwall tube ), but that is part of the car I built some 35 years ago( which was a modified version of the car I'd built a couple of years before that )
I've been here before...
My Blue racer ( pics of it are already on this thread, I believe ) had unusual rear suspension too.
( deDion with a WOB link, going around a transverse rear engine & gearbox )
And the rear of that chassis was too flexy.
Which caused all kinds of extra problems...
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