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Last Edit: May 22, 2017 10:30:31 GMT by rmad
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Nice work.
Does the Porsche Owner want a matching Boxster? Mine has the reg plate T87 RHR, so they would look great together! I've just given it a full respray in original Arctic Silver too!
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Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,296
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Hi grumpy, glad youve got this thread up as I'm creping inexorably towards a full colour change respray. ive bought rustolium combi colour and primer as its supposed to be full of anti rusty stuff. I'm going to spray it on rarther than rollering So my first question is seam sealent or primer first? Dan
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Hi grumpy, glad youve got this thread up as I'm creping inexorably towards a full colour change respray. ive bought rustolium combi colour and primer as its supposed to be full of anti rusty stuff. I'm going to spray it on rarther than rollering So my first question is seam sealent or primer first? Dan Personally I would apply the seam sealer over primer although there are some seam sealers which will go straight onto bare metal - Either way don't purchase the cheap stuff over a well known brand i.e. 3M / U Pol etc
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,296
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Thanks i was going to buy tiger seal, as it was recommended to me as beeing better than the rest, but ill keep and eye out for those too. I'm not looking to get a perfect as this is never going to be a show car i just don't want to the rot to creap back. Dan
Ps love the jowett.
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Hi Grumpy, Some nice work there and a very timely thread for me.
I'm going to be painting my GTM over the summer hopefully. It's in bare gelcoat with filler repairs to gel cracks. What is the current technology saying with respect to primers and etchants etc and what finish coat should I look for?
I don't currently have access to an air fed mask. Would this be a good investment if it allowed me to paint 2k, or can I get similar results with another less poisonous system?
Cheers,
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'83 GTM Coupe. 4A-GE Powered '00 GTM Libra Auto. Ick. '71 Detomaso Pantera. Current Resto '89 GMC Safari Tow/Kip bus '05 SAAB 9-3 Daily '71 Siva Moonbug. Not even contemplating resto yet.
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Hi Grumpy, Some nice work there and a very timely thread for me. I'm going to be painting my GTM over the summer hopefully. It's in bare gelcoat with filler repairs to gel cracks. What is the current technology saying with respect to primers and etchants etc and what finish coat should I look for? I don't currently have access to an air fed mask. Would this be a good investment if it allowed me to paint 2k, or can I get similar results with another less poisonous system? Cheers, Epoxy / 2 pack primers along with a 2 pack finish would work best on a gelcoat surface - You can achieve similar results with 1K / single pack air drying paints - there even additives available to take a 2K / 2 pack paint and convert it to single pack paint - the problem with the single pack / 1K paints is the lengthy drying times and the longer they remain in a tacky / wet state the more dust / debris / insects tend to stick to the paint - 2K products are now very advanced to the point that in the right conditions you can handle / polish the paint within a few hours of application - If and only IF you can sort out proper industry standard air fed mask and the other PPE required it could be worth your while considering a 2K finish - there is a lot to consider such has the size of your compressor and will it cope with supplying both a air fed mask & spray gun ? - Other points such as the location of your garage / workshop - if it is linked to a residential property - forget using 2K products - you need a stand alone garage / workshop to avoid putting anyone at risk. If you can advise on workshop location / compressor size etc then I can talk you through the further information that you need. - Chris
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just quoting this here, for "diary" sake, and good usefulnessness general question and not in any way related to what i have seen here, but best practice to fill on bare metal? or is it ok on top of primer ? All depends on what you are planning to overpaint it with - so the general rule is, if you apply filler over paint that you going to overpaint / top coat with a solvent / cellulose based paint, the paint will shrink around the filler / repair area and show as a poor repair - so in this case it needs to be bare metal However if you are using a synthetic, acrylic or water based paint then you are fine to fill over the top of paint and then apply top coat over it without it shrinking
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Last Edit: Apr 7, 2017 10:52:05 GMT by darrenh
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p.s approve of myth busting / painting info thread. i think you will inevitably get bombarded at the start, but i think will settle down into a really useful resource. so my question, do you think you could run through a basic bullet point of different types of paint and suitable application methods/ safety equipment, basic do's and donts ? what is even in generic rattle cans from motorfactors ? also, what about a sanding guide ? a table for "use this grade for X and Y, this grade for shaping fillers and primers, this grade before top coats, this grade for flatting top coats. etc etc.
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p.s approve of myth busting / painting info thread. i think you will inevitably get bombarded at the start, but i think will settle down into a really useful resource. so my question, do you think you could run through a basic bullet point of different types of paint and suitable application methods/ safety equipment, basic do's and donts ? what is even in generic rattle cans from motorfactors ? also, what about a sanding guide ? a table for "use this grade for X and Y, this grade for shaping fillers and primers, this grade before top coats, this grade for flatting top coats. etc etc. I can but need to address them as separate issues / topics - this way it is easier for all to grasp / understand - a lot of it is dependant upon several issues which will dictate the type / methods used (i.e. area to be painted / size / what the surface is / workshop conditions / available equipment etc) - probably one the best ways of explaining paint preparation / application process is to capture the main points with photos and then post up as a guide with accompanying detail in text - give me a couple of days to pull some subject matter together and I will get going on the points you have raised
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Some great work there. Will be following this to see what I can learn - v. envious of your paint shop.
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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Apr 12, 2017 20:33:39 GMT
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Use of 'Guide Coats' - can help you no end when profiling filler / flatting back polyester spraying fillers / primers etc - there are several products in the market that are sold as guide coats but to be honest you cant go wrong by using a tin of aerosol matt black - dusted on the applied surface you simply use as a guide for sanding / flatting back - the black will show areas that have not been rubbed / flatted back enough - a few pics to detail the process You can see where the filler has been profiled as a clean finish - but the black overspray in areas details areas that require further work Frame in a polyester sprayed filler with guide coat applied Flatted back but still requiring work Few close ups for detail Once flatted back correctly you should not be able to see any of the matt black - a simple but effective process that can give you great results has it will highlight any defect / areas that require further work before you apply the top coat - and it costs next to nothing
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Apr 12, 2017 20:38:28 GMT
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This is a very interesting thread on a subject i wish I knew more about. I have tried numerous times to pint things and I suck!
What is the guide cost for? Is it just black paint? What is its purpose and what does it do?
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Apr 12, 2017 21:24:59 GMT
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This is a very interesting thread on a subject i wish I knew more about. I have tried numerous times to pint things and I suck! What is the guide cost for? Is it just black paint? What is its purpose and what does it do? The guide coat is simply to highlight areas that require further work before proceeding onto the next stages - touch / sight alone can be used but the guide coats make the process so much easier to view / see and yes I just use a simple & cheap matt black aerosol - dusted on through the preparation stages
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Apr 12, 2017 22:43:48 GMT
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I was hoping to see some bodypainting.
I'll get my coat..
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,041
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Body & Paint Threadvulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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Apr 12, 2017 23:51:32 GMT
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I almost feel ashamed to ask this, but can you offer any advice on how best to get a nice finish with acrylic aerosols outdoors? Any advice other than "don't" would be welcome.
For reference, I'll be using Halfords range of paints as they've proven to be a good colour match on the car but the results have been decidedly variable in quality, regardless of preparation, compared to the older formula paints you'd get 10-15 years ago which were far more forgiving.
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I almost feel ashamed to ask this, but can you offer any advice on how best to get a nice finish with acrylic aerosols outdoors? Any advice other than "don't" would be welcome. For reference, I'll be using Halfords range of paints as they've proven to be a good colour match on the car but the results have been decidedly variable in quality, regardless of preparation, compared to the older formula paints you'd get 10-15 years ago which were far more forgiving. No matter how good or shiny the final paintwork is it will only be has good as the preparation underneath it so this is the area to concentrate on - rather than attempt the preparation / painting of several panels in one go just concentrate on one panel until you get the result that you are happy with once mastered you can move on to a few panels at at a time - you will need a decent day with little wind if outside but not in direct sunlight - try to find a sheltered area - ideally hardstanding / tarmac or concreted area rather than one with loose gravel / stone to prevent dust ingress into the wet paint - over mask rather than under mask has the overspray will travel further when used outside - take your time and resist the temptation to get achieve too much / too many panels in one day and always walk away from it when painted and resist the habit of demasking or fitting trim back to the panel to see how good it will look whilst the paint is too soft / wet - from a painting point of view it's practice that will get you the results - put the paint on too dry and it will be a rough / unsmooth finish - too wet and you will suffer from runs / sags in the finish - but you can always flat it back when dry and either repaint it or polish it - there is a 3 page guide to using aerosols that I have done in the May edition of 'Practical Classics' that you might find useful - Good Luck - Chris
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Apr 13, 2017 10:26:47 GMT
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Could you recommend a suitable paint for the underside and inner arches of a VW shell? I’m on my third attempt with this and would like to avoid a fourth…
The base I’m applying to is about 80% the standard factory applied underseal (in great condition) with the other 20% being made up of various areas I’ve ground back for rust / weld repairs.
I’d originally gone with a Hammerite primer and topcoat, however after reading a lot of horror stories I thought it best use something with a better reputation. I’ve since tried POR 15 but have had terrible results - It’s coming off in sheets even on primed areas and on areas that have been treated with their branded metal prep.
Any suggestions? I’m working in a single car garage (although the car is on a spit) without access to a compressor, so I think I’m limited to brush on or aerosol paints.
My next plan had been to remove as much of the por15 as I can and seal everything in with an isolator paint, then apply a topcoat of gravitex stonechip - Is this wise?
Thanks in advance!
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