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Aug 12, 2020 12:39:58 GMT
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Are those rust bubbles or moisture bubbles do you think? Difficult to tell from the photo but they look like moisture in the paint to me. Has it had a car cover over it? If moisture in the paint you can afford to just leave it for a while as it's probably (hopefully) not touching bare metal but sandwiched in the middle of the paint. I concur with Mark on this - that's certainly moisture - normally referred to has spirit blistering in the trade - It may well get worse over a period and there's not a lot you can do to prevent it - only one way to sort it and that is to fully remove all paint surfaces beyond the depth of the blistering which normally results in a bare metal paint job (frankly its just not worth not going back to bare metal - if you painted the car and it happened again you would well cheesed off) - Its one of those things that you will just have to live with I'm afraid until you are in a position to get the car repainted
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ems1
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 295
Club RR Member Number: 5
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Body & Paint Threadems1
@ems1
Club Retro Rides Member 5
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Aug 12, 2020 18:27:23 GMT
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Thanks for the replies. It hasn't been under a car cover since it was built as it's now kept outdoors. I think it was painted around 12 years ago. Over the last year the amount of blisters has increased. If there's moisture in the blisters would it be worth sanding them and treating the surface with hydrate 80 or electrox rather than leaving it until the car gets re-sprayed?
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Last Edit: Aug 12, 2020 18:29:58 GMT by ems1
1985 Manta GT/E 16v 2001 VW T4 Caravelle
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Aug 12, 2020 20:07:15 GMT
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The moisture is in the paint rather than under it, so you should be ok as it is. Just keep an eye on things and if things look to be deteroirating then think about treatment.
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ems1
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 295
Club RR Member Number: 5
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Body & Paint Threadems1
@ems1
Club Retro Rides Member 5
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Aug 12, 2020 20:22:50 GMT
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Thank you, I'll keep an eye on it - it's better for the car if I leave the paint alone as I'm useless at bodywork and paint!
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1985 Manta GT/E 16v 2001 VW T4 Caravelle
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Aug 15, 2020 18:17:01 GMT
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this is what I'm also worried about with my car, ist in primer in the garage, and i really don't want to be trapping moisture in the primers. I also have found where ive rubbed threw the primer, and rust has started, i ad just rubbed it with a sanding disc, but i guess that itll come back?
there are also parts of the car taht i may have started to fill, then not finished for a week, then put 2k high build on it. will that also have water in it?
thanks
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2020 18:19:47 GMT by bmw2101
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Aug 15, 2020 18:30:46 GMT
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It's not so much water that is trapped from the atmosphere - your filler should be ok as long as it was perfectly dried out before you painted it. The same goes for any primered part.
The issues with water in paint are from the actual spraying normally - not having proper water traps and (ideally) a dryer in the air line to take any moisture out of the compressed air.
In reality, making sure the panels are perfectly dry before painting, making sure the compressor tank is drained before you do any painting, having a good water trap in your air line and painting when humidity is low in the air and air temps are well above 15 deg C (ideally 20 deg C) should give you perfectly good results.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:05:23 GMT
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ah ok thanks! if i do what I'm doing with the primer, leave my oil heater in the car for a few days before i paint the top coat, itll be ok then?
the other one was the little bits of rust that have formed? should i be treating them , or will they be ok when covered?
thankyou
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Aug 21, 2020 17:51:36 GMT
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This is an admission. I have been trying to do some repair work prior to painting, on my spitfire hardtop in Chris's 'style', using some of his 'methods'. That is filler/fibre-glass out, real metal in... a proper (if amateurish) job this time. But.... I feel like a second-rate Dr. Watson to Chris's Sherlock Holmes. I did not perceive how difficult bending even 0.9mm steel is without the proper tools. A 3" bench vice and a hammer just don't appear to work all that well!!! However, I will not be beaten, and although the 'skim' of filler may be slightly thicker in places than I would have liked, this hardtop will have more steel in it than it has had for 30 (plus) years. How you do it Chris, on your own, is unbelievable, especially with all the other stuff that you do for the Jowett club, your local village, the threads, the advice, the help you give and everything else.
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Last Edit: Aug 21, 2020 22:48:32 GMT by Badwolf
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Aug 31, 2020 20:23:22 GMT
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still having a few issues. the hi build primer still clogs like mad, its hp body 534, and i just checked the data sheet and it says do not use below 15degs. Well its been put on in the garage, no extra heating. So i think that is the problem. If i put a heater in the car for a day or so, will it go off properly?
thanks
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Aug 31, 2020 22:03:28 GMT
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Difficult to say but a couple of hours with a heater will certainly help. What size fluid tip are you using in the spraygun? High build needs a minimum of 1.8 or bigger.
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Sept 1, 2020 19:19:16 GMT
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not sure i think its 1.2, its what my mate used for painting, its a devilbus gti, he bought a new one and gave me his old!
i have another gun maybe i should use that for primer.
thanks
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Sept 1, 2020 19:43:54 GMT
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1.2 is a spot repair gun, 1.4 to 1.6 is a refinishing gun an 1.8-2.0 is a primer/high build gun.
To use a 1.2 with high build you would have to thin it considerably!
Get another gun with a 1.8 tip and use it as your primer gun.
Another option is just buy a 1.8 aircap/fluid tip and needle for the gun you have and swap them out for different paints.
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Sept 1, 2020 19:48:52 GMT
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ill have to check what it is, i thought it was 1.2 but maybe not! you know the hydrate 80 stuff? I paintd the back of the mini in it, now its all thick and brush marks, i thought i could sand it but it just goes into balls. I did a repair on the rear pillar as its had a roof on this car, i took it off. is there a way of flatting it a bit smoother? thanks again!
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 469
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Sept 1, 2020 19:54:50 GMT
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still having a few issues. the hi build primer still clogs like mad, its hp body 534, and i just checked the data sheet and it says do not use below 15degs. Well its been put on in the garage, no extra heating. So i think that is the problem. If i put a heater in the car for a day or so, will it go off properly? thanks What grade paper are you using? I use 240 or 180 grit wet and dry paper but without water for high build and don't have any problems, maybe use one strip per panel and go down the grades with guide coat, finishing at 500, (maybe 4" X 8" on a sanding pad) usually get it as loose sheets from my local paint suppliers, but I ran out on a Sunday recently and got a pack from Screwfix which was just as good really. If you're using a really small piece of paper it will obviously clog up quicker, same if it's a finer grit. Have a look at Trevs blog on YouTube, he gives some sound advice.
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 469
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Sept 1, 2020 19:57:05 GMT
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ill have to check what it is, i thought it was 1.2 but maybe not! you know the hydrate 80 stuff? I paintd the back of the mini in it, now its all thick and brush marks, i thought i could sand it but it just goes into balls. I did a repair on the rear pillar as its had a roof on this car, i took it off. is there a way of flatting it a bit smoother? thanks again! Goes down with 80 or 120 on a DA, but not good to paint over and you'll probably end up removin it. High build should hide it.
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Sept 1, 2020 19:57:58 GMT
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I bought some Hydrate 80 the other day but not ever used it on a panel.
I've only ever used Kurust or similar in the past and have always washed it off prior to painting, though I hate getting water on a panel before a gloss coat is applied.
It's difficult to advise you without having used it, but maybe put a bit less on in the future? you could apply it with a cloth rather than a brush to avoid the ridges, but personally I would favour sanding it back. You might just have to persevere with it?
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 469
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Sept 1, 2020 20:03:50 GMT
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Also, 2 different products and a 'similar' problem, so I'd have a look at your sandpaper / grades. I don't think you should be having a problem with any Paint not curing at this time of year if it's mixed and applied as per the instructions.
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Sept 1, 2020 20:16:42 GMT
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i would like the ebay pages of the sanding products i have but its not working atm for some reason.
i have some roll of 180, and some strips of 80 that i got from supertune in manchester. the 80 even clodded with the hydrate 80, but seems to take the filler down ok, and does clog a bit with the high build.
I was looking at the data sheet yesterday, and it says don't use below 15degs, i think the panels are much colder that this, so that is why i was thinking about heating the car up now, maybe too late?!
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Sept 1, 2020 20:34:08 GMT
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I've found with epoxy that it needs 3 or 4 days to harden properly when the temperature is cooler otherwise as you found it clogs, plenty of soap and water helps, abranet is also less prone to clogging.
I'm not sure about hydrate 90, I know some swear by it but I'm not convinced it isn't just covering the rust and it seems a bit soft to paint over, I've used it on several places on my range rover so I guess time will tell.
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Sept 1, 2020 21:20:39 GMT
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It does say overpaintable on the bottle, but I'd always prefer to sand it back once it's done its job. Many,many years ago I covered a front wing with the 'kurust' of the day, painted over it and the paint fell off in sheets a couple of weeks later.
Since then I like to paint directly onto steel/filler only.
I don't know about the primer/filler you are using but I've painted at much lower temps (though if really cold I'll heat the garage for 30 mins first) with no issues - it will take longer to dry but you can use a bit of accellerator to speed it up if required. Not sure if accellerator is compatable with primer/filler or not though.
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