'84 Land Rover ex-MOD 109, OM606 hi-cap

[sowen]

Oct 17, 2019 2:23:08 GMT jjeffries said:

I enjoy this thread and admire both the competence and confidence you demonstrate.
Question about that intake manifold: when viewed from underneath, it appears to have two intake runners for each cylinder. Is that right? Thanks, John

Each valve has it's own 'port' where the manifold bolts down to, so I have 12 ports along the head. They diverge very close to the head in the inlet manifold. Most engines with 4 valves per cylinder I've seen have oval ports, the Mercedes just seems to have taken this to another level!

Oct 18, 2019 13:29:17 GMT biturbo228 said:

Damn that's cool

I was thinking about potentially using an OM605 with a Landy LT77/R380 in a future project (Baja MGB), but was wondering about towing with a clutch that can take the torque. Nice to see a high-rated single-plate clutch.

Have you towed with yours before? Haven't gone back far enough through the thread yet!

You can buy a bolt on adapter kit for the OM605/6 to R380 from a guy called Ollie North, he's on FB and is on the MercRover's group. Or go diy and fabricate everything yourself like I've done (there were no kits available when I started). Clutchfix do a higher rated pressure plate than will fit the Land Rover tdi flywheel (and rwd Rover V8) to match the 600lb/ft friction plate, rated to somewhere around 470lb/ft I think over the 414lb/ft HD pressure plate they normally supply (which I have for my other Rover). I've not towed with it, though you're more likely to have cooling issues under prolonged load. A V8 spec radiator on mine has so far been perfect throughout the summer, but with a few tons dragged behind, I'd be wanting something more than what I already have, maybe a 4 core rad?

[bmwmaniac]

merc sprinter clutch and solid flywheel is commonly used on om605's as an upgrade

[sowen]

I've been racking up yet more miles in the 109 over the last few months. Flew through the mot again and the engine feels a bit smoother with the softer engine mounts fitted. The turbo now maxes out at 18psi, outright acceleration is almost the same as what it was when hitting 25-27psi but there isn't the same amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I think the turbo was just heating up the air reducing the density, but the pump was seeing the pressure and fuelling to suit.

I've seperated the original single feed from the inlet manifold that was joined into the pump boost reference port and boost gauge into three seperate ports for the pump, wastegate and gauge. Eventually I plan to run hard lines to replace the washer tubing, that can wait until some other time



Another job that needed doing was making a new tunnel cover since the original had been pretty well hacked up to make room for the LT77 lever and already had some big holes in it





And I've bought a new ragtop to suit the hi-cap body





And roll up sides







And the important stuff



With it suddenly getting dark I figured after driving it for a few years it was about time I removed all the 24volt dashboard bulbs which simply didn't give out any visible light, and put new 12volt bulbs in! It makes such a difference being able to see the gauges at night and not rely on light being relected around to illuminate the dashboard





And on the subject of lights I've screwed a cheap led lightbar on the front. It is very good as a spot, so combined with the mainbeams there's a lot of light thrown everywhere forwards



And not forgetting I've wired up the reverse lights so can see where I've going backwards! I'm using a set of front sidelights with 21w bulbs in. I wasn't expecting the light output to be very good and had plan b in mind of wiring up a pair of small led spotlights underneath the tub. The light output is pretty good so I'll leave them alone unless I do find I need more rearwards nighttime visibility



Then we had that really chilly week. The heater is good in the 109, but I've noticed on the motorway airflow appears to drop off a bit. I think the heater feed on the side of the wing must be in a low pressure area at speed so I've made a little ram air scoop to help draw air in at speed











Now there's more consistent airflow from the heater driving down the motorway and along the backroads.

[sowen]

And with all the rain we've had recently and doing my bit recovering the company car at work from a flood I've done a bit more to the raised air intake just in case I need to do some more deep water driving again











Another job that needed doing has been to replace the window runners since one fell apart a month ago. The waist seals on the doors have been bad for a long time letting water in, so they've been replaced too















And with the 109 getting some attention and having the next week and a bit off work with the weather being nice I've pulled the rear diff out and put the Detroit Truetrac in

















It wasn't too hard shimming up the Truetrac to fit. I salvaged a pair of bearings off another Salisbury and ground the centre bore out a bit to let them slide on the new centre. Using my surface plate I sat both side by side and added shims to get the crownwheel face heights the same then pressed the new bearings in and fitted the new centre. Fitting was a lot harder than removal since the Truetrac is just so much heavier than the original open diff centre. My arms were aching for hours after that lift!

[norfolkshire]

Very interesting thread. I have followed the journey, on and off; please forgive me if I have missed this issue. Re the improved snorkel design, have you by any chance also addressed the potential issue of water ingess into the axles, gearbox, transfer box, etc..., when playing in floods; ie. by fitting a suitable wading kit to these areas, thus then having raised breathers all round?
If you have, sorry for the interuption. Keep up the good work.

[peteh1969]

It looks much better with the new top.

[sowen]

Dec 23, 2019 14:45:24 GMT norfolkshire said:

Very interesting thread. I have followed the journey, on and off; please forgive me if I have missed this issue. Re the improved snorkel design, have you by any chance also addressed the potential issue of water ingess into the axles, gearbox, transfer box, etc..., when playing in floods; ie. by fitting a suitable wading kit to these areas, thus then having raised breathers all round?
If you have, sorry for the interuption. Keep up the good work.

It still has the original fit military wading kit for both axles. Rear is piped into the chassis and the front curls up round the bulkhead near the heater. Eventually they'll be re-routed further up with new breathers fitted to the transmission

Dec 23, 2019 14:46:36 GMT peteh1969 said:

It looks much better with the new top.

I broke the plastic top first time out playing, a branch took it clean off! Also having it pointed inwards should avoid it filling with water/spray and dirt. Being an old Land Rover with upright screen water loves to be splashed up at the screen so there's a real risk of even a moderate deep puddle being splashed up to the roof. Where I work it floods bad and I can easily have water thrown over the cab into the bed if I'm over-enthusiastic!

[sowen]

And the latest job I've completed on the 109 is making and fitting the transfer box difflock and hi/lo levers, using the original series red and yellow levers instead of the LT230 style stubby gearlever









The easy bit was making the main base and mounting the red hi/lo lever and making that operational. I took inspiration off some other builds and made the lever base mount to the top of the difflock actuator housing. The harder part was to make the rotational movement of the difflock into vertical movememnt of the yellow lever







After some tidying up and paint, it's now fitted and working









Gaiters are needed to finish it off as and when I get round to it, but I can't find the original tunnel trim parts so probably won't bother for another year or two!

It also gives a satisfying clunk and thud when operated

[peteh1969]

Great work.

What plans do you have to water proof the Heater blower intake as I would think not being without a heater would as important as the engine water proofing?

[sowen]

Dec 27, 2019 15:23:31 GMT peteh1969 said:

Great work.

What plans do you have to water proof the Heater blower intake as I would think not being without a heater would as important as the engine water proofing?

If I ever drove into water deep enough to go into the heater intake I'd be at least ankle deep in water inside! You can't stop the water getting in but you can help it get out again....

[glenanderson]

Dec 27, 2019 17:27:03 GMT sowen said:

Dec 27, 2019 15:23:31 GMT peteh1969 said:

Great work.

What plans do you have to water proof the Heater blower intake as I would think not being without a heater would as important as the engine water proofing?

If I ever drove into water deep enough to go into the heater intake I'd be at least ankle deep in water inside! You can't stop the water getting in but you can help it get out again....

I think you might run into issues with rainwater ingress. Some form of gutter/drain to allow rain to find its way out before getting into the heater box and blower motor might be worth considering.

Oh, and I don’t know about wet feet, I’ve had cassette tapes float out of the window before. 🤣🤣

[sowen]

Dec 27, 2019 17:35:20 GMT glenanderson said:

Dec 27, 2019 17:27:03 GMT sowen said:

If I ever drove into water deep enough to go into the heater intake I'd be at least ankle deep in water inside! You can't stop the water getting in but you can help it get out again....

I think you might run into issues with rainwater ingress. Some form of gutter/drain to allow rain to find its way out before getting into the heater box and blower motor might be worth considering.

Oh, and I don’t know about wet feet, I’ve had cassette tapes float out of the window before. 🤣🤣

The scoop inside the wing is larger diameter than the intake for the blower motor and presently unsealed. Most water will probably run down the inside and miss the blower. If it becomes a problem sucking water I can change the design, it didn't cost anything to make and wouldn't be hard to change.

I still have the muddy tide line inside my other Land Rover a few inches up the door where I drove it through the bottom of a quarry and had the bonnet submerged

[wiggybum]

In case you are interested, Bryan at Design & Development Engineering has now released the parts needed to upgrade your Series front axle to Stage 1 V8. ie uprated 24 spline halfshafts and related bits to convert to CVs:

www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/store/Land-Rover-Stage-One-V8-c24646570

Give him a ring to discuss what's involved. That cuts out all the guesswork.

[sowen]

May 15, 2020 8:23:27 GMT wiggybum said:

In case you are interested, Bryan at Design & Development Engineering has now released the parts needed to upgrade your Series front axle to Stage 1 V8. ie uprated 24 spline halfshafts and related bits to convert to CVs:

www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/store/Land-Rover-Stage-One-V8-c24646570

Give him a ring to discuss what's involved. That cuts out all the guesswork.

You mean these shafts





What he hasn't completed yet are the stub axles. Those are the critical part that set the CV joint in the correct position so the shaft can float in the axle spinning true. I'm hoping he'll have the first batch ready within a few weeks with a new batch of top pins so I can make a start stripping my front axle down to build it back up with the front Truetrac locker and 110 CV joints

[wiggybum]

Well - all I can say is you have good taste sir.

Yes, I too am waiting for the stub axles although would prefer them in the early imperial bearing dimensions. Keep a beady eye on that Facebook page 😚

[sowen]

May 16, 2020 13:26:10 GMT wiggybum said:

Well - all I can say is you have good taste sir.

Yes, I too am waiting for the stub axles although would prefer them in the early imperial bearing dimensions. Keep a beady eye on that Facebook page 😚

I'm hoping he'll give me a shout when all the bits I need are ready and I can spend even more money! Suprised there's still one pair of 23/24 spline shafts available. If they're still there on payday I might buy those for my other Landy too.....

[wiggybum]

Pricey - but physically available:

www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/store/Land-Rover-Stage-One-V8-Stub-Axle-p223054848

[sowen]

Jul 31, 2020 16:56:37 GMT wiggybum said:

Pricey - but physically available:

www.designdevelopmenteng.co.uk/store/Land-Rover-Stage-One-V8-Stub-Axle-p223054848

Yep ordered a pair. Not quite enough spare money this month to order two pairs for each of my Land Rover's!

I now have everything once this pair arrives to build up one axle with a 24 spline diff, and have a spare set of shafts ready for once I've saved up and bought the second set to build up another axle. As the priorities are going my swb V8 will be built up first, hopefully before the end of the month....