Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,964
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Sizing up my next project - choice of two. 1) Low mileage, FSH, needs rear brakes ASAP and bodywork/interior average - but higher price by several hundred. 2) Higher mileage (but still low-isa for year), better bodywork and interior but needs an ABS sensor, O2 sensor (I've flashed the ECU) and tyres all round - dash looks like a Christmas tree. Could be had pretty cheap, but obviously the risk is higher. Would you plump for the more expensive but safer option, or the cheaper (potentially bargainous but potentially more troublesome and definitely) motor? Kinda rare, so parts will be expensive... Both have identical MOT length, no major issues highlighted. I think I know the answer, but wanted the opinion of the group... Modified content in no way reflects potential project ;-)  |
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2018 19:11:40 GMT by Paul
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Buy on condition.
Higher mileage, if in good condition, shows that it's been looked after, serviced more regularly (more often than not) in order to do the high mileage.
What advantage is lower mileage when the rest of the bodywork reflects higher mileage and a distinct lack of care? I'd hazard a guess that the 1st one has also had more owners?
Sensors are minor and you'll probably find that you'll eventually need to do them in the first one.
As long as it's not starship mileage, condition always gives a truer reflection of how well a car's been cared for in my opinion, cars/engine are made to cover miles after all.
I think people get too caught up on mileage- don't get me wrong it's definitely a bonus if everything else adds up, but if it doesn't, like in this case, I definitely wouldn't be paying more for a worse condition car just because it has a few less digits on the clocks mate.
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Depends entirely on what car it is as to which option would be preferable for me.
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 Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern |
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I'm always inclined to go for a cleanskin if possible. To me the mileage on an old car is immaterial. Fixing/replacing mechanical items is a finite cost whereas chasing rust goes on forever.
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Higher mileage one gets my vote, tatty bodywork is one of the more time consuming and expensive things to put right.
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,673
Club RR Member Number: 11
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What would you do?skinnylew
@skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member 11
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Depends what your plans are for it really. I'd always go the cheapest cos i'm tight  |
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If its that thing on chromes with broken suspension then walk away and give yourself a slap
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,964
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If its that thing on chromes with broken suspension then walk away and give yourself a slap Trust me it's not. Thanks for your comments...the difference in price should more than cover the parts I need...we shall see! |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,297
Club RR Member Number: 170
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What would you do?ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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What car is it?
Generally, I buy on condition.
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Paul
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,964
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Well, purchase has been made...RR thread to follow!
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At anything over 100K I always buy on condition, if it's got a load of receipts and evidence of being looked after then that's a bonus.
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,673
Club RR Member Number: 11
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What would you do?skinnylew
@skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member 11
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At anything over 100K I always buy on condition, if it's got a load of receipts and evidence of being looked after then that's a bonus. Man if i was spending over 100k i'd expect it to be MINT   |
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Ax GTi Turbo
