1979 Capri 2.0 "Ghia " - Spraying Bumpers / New TCAs

[cjhillman]

Haven't got round to re-wiring the Ignition yet but I will be later this week. Last night I was thinking about the possibility of an air leak and as I also undid the bolts to the inlet manifold when I dropped that washer in there so for £3 I could stick a new gasket on it plus means I can check that valve, Get the Carb tightened down better to the manifold at the rear (off the car). Of course it didnt take long to get it all off the Car and I made a little video. Part one is here and I'll upload part two when the gasket turns up.

The inlet No.1 valve looks find luckily (had the endoscope down there again) but as you can see in this video... looks a bit black. Is there any additives that will get rid of this? Also, is this caused by the engine running rich?

I also felt a little concerned about the head gasket towards the back of the block. I think its just how it sits here but looks like theres a bit of an indent where at the front it sticks out a bit. At first it looked like it was leaking at the rear but I think it could have just been holding oil or water until I cleaned it... I'll put it all back tomorrow or Thursday when the Gasket turns up.

[cjhillman]

Just looking at de-coking products and the old water technique online. Anyone tried these? I noticed one of the symptoms of coked up valves is bad cold starting, rough running and lower compression so I guess this could be a factor... its probably other things though. Any experience with this ? Also thinking for my Escort too as that has been pinking for years. Need to get this Car on some B roads!!

[kevins]

The back of the valve doesn't look to bad, I can't see how the coke would affect running unless the valve isn't sealing, a compression test is the way to check this.

I still think your staring and running issues are probably to do with the carb, unless the choke mechanism is in prefect order they never run right, I remember messing around for ages trying to get our 1600 ghia escort running right, in the end gave up and splashed out on a re-built carb which transformed it.

[cjhillman]

Oct 7, 2020 14:47:55 GMT kevins said:

The back of the valve doesn't look to bad, I can't see how the coke would affect running unless the valve isn't sealing, a compression test is the way to check this.

I still think your staring and running issues are probably to do with the carb, unless the choke mechanism is in prefect order they never run right, I remember messing around for ages trying to get our 1600 ghia escort running right, in the end gave up and splashed out on a re-built carb which transformed it.

Cheers for this, was a little surprised to see the valves were that mucky. After a lot research I thought it probably wasnt too bad all considering. Its all back together now, just needs new coolant as the last stuff was just like a bowl of rust.

Will see how I get on, hoping to get some more wire later in the week for the ignition and coolant if nothing comes up. I tightened down the Carb a lot more off the Car and made some new gaskets for the mounting block so hoping it could be something to do with that.

I've wanted to buy a new / rebuilt Carb for ages and would have done it on a normal year I think.

[cjhillman]

Oct 7, 2020 18:35:52 GMT Darkspeed said:

You will not test whether a ballast wire is in the loom without actually pulling the full coil load when you test - Ignition on, -ve to earth and then measure across the terminals but it has to be done quickly as the coil will heat up quickly being shorted to earth.

Right I see...I tested the wire without the coil on ignition 2 and was getting 12v maybe a bit more. I thought if it was a ballast wire that it would just have around 9v is it?

My plan is to send another 12v feed to the Ignition Module as that apparently needs its own feed. I have a 12v switched feed coming out of the loom and I think (probably even better) a switched 12v pin on the fuse box. I saw that on a Capri video, not tested mine yet.

[cjhillman]

I've not really updated this in a while due to starting a new temporary Job for the winter months. I've still been working on the Capri a little but as I only had a day off here and there I've sent it off to Inkys Autos down here in London to just iron out the running problems/oil leaks. A bit gutted I haven't finished it completely myself but, I don't think I would ever trust it. Its still not back yet but, he has fitted an electric fuel pump/changed the fuel lines, set the timing better and just waiting on an blanking plate for the old manual pump. Fingers crossed i'll be getting some use out of it now as it starts on the button unlike before.Probably just as well as i think i might have to take the Escort of the road soon due to welding Stay tuned. Oh, I also have been documenting progress a little more on youtube now. I will leave a couple of video links here...

[cjhillman]

Happy New Year! Here is the 3rd video on removing/refitting the Atlas Axle.

[peteh1969]

Great work on that rear axle.

You did remember to put oil in it?

Happy New Year.

[cjhillman]

Jan 1, 2021 22:57:40 GMT peteh1969 said:

Great work on that rear axle.

You did remember to put oil in it?

Happy New Year.

They filled it at the workshop for me. Annoyingly the backplate is leaking slightly from a pin hole in the centre of the plate. I have another with a gasket but havent swapped it over yet... waiting for better weather. I heard you can use liquid metal too as a patch so might try that

[cjhillman]

Today i finished fitting the manual choke to the Capri. Although I think i need a new battery as if it doesnt fire first turn now, it drains off pretty quick. fingers crossed this helps me out a bit more though now. I am surprised with how much slack the mechanism seems to have in it, I think it does the job anyway. I was under the impression the choke plates would fully close and open under the new cable? Seems like they just close though and can be pushed back fully open by hand. 

[cjhillman]

For todays test, I decided to have my jumper pack on the car with the multimeter attached to the Battery (hence the higher reading if you cant see the pack). 2 pumps on the throttle, wait for the new electronic fuel pump to do its thing and it fired nicely. No choke manual choke needed.
If you watch the video though you can see the car cuts out once the jump pack is removed but, it does start back up. I wanted to do some tests on the alternator to eliminate the charging system. I was getting some wacky results though.




Neg battery terminal to alternator casing was between 0.02-0.12 so.. not sure if its more than a bad earth there? The top sliding bracket gave no result so I've taken that off and cleaned that off. The bottom bolt seems a bit welded on and I couldnt be bothered with a broken bolt today.

Neg battery terminal to block was around 0.03-5 which i think is right and ground to body was 0.08 .

I have yet to test the output of the alternator as the neighbour was chatting to me and I was getting told off by the misses for making the house stink with the car on the drive








I did get a quick drive round the block and it was quite nice. The new hose joining was leaking too though so I didnt go far   the list grows longer!

I'm thinking wiring wise I need to go over the alternator again and check the output, should also try get it off and clean the mount up. I should still run a switched dedicated 12v feed for the ignition module. I never did this as I gave it to the garage to figure out. Since its been back and is playing up under load... its probably time for this. After that... a new heavy duty Battery?

[cjhillman]

Before I go and spend my hard earned on a fancy new battery, I thought i'd test the starter circuit to see if the starter motor or something is causing a draw. I filmed it so here it is.
I think i should also do similar tests on the coil, charging system and lastly the headlights(seems to be a draw there on tickover). The car drives lovely now but all this testing is to try and get that first turn of the key to kick it into life no bother Probably battery time... Looking at a Yuasa and also noticed the hi torque starter motors on ebay, might be worth it.

[cjhillman]

So spent a little bit of time testing more things on the Ignition System. The Ignition module now finally has its on constant 12v feed. If this helps the cold/first start problem time will tell. I tested the original feed from the coil to battery negative and was getting battery voltage on ignition 2 so, guessing no ballast (i'm sure ive tested this before).

The Car now has an electric fuel pump so now thats on fuse 5 too (with an inline fuse as well).

Also I bought a heavy duty Yuasa Battery thinking that would kick it over quicker. It definitely does help but thinking maybe I need to upgrade the starter. I've seen one on ebay that has 50% more turning over power apparently... not sure if this is me looking in the wrong place though. I feel like I'm nearly there with this .... only been 2 years haha. My only problem is the Escort is about to need a ton of welding so I could do with getting this sorted so I have a Car to go to work in or.... it might be the end for this one.

I still wonder if its a fuel/carb thing with this although now its starting to flood easy with the new fuel pump. It has brass floats in it and i did read they can get fuel off fuel and act up ... just an idea.


'

[mk2cossie]

From the video above of the voltage drop tests, the main lead between battery positive and starter motor positive showed a peak of over 1volt!
I was always told anything over 0.5volt wasn't good.

May be an idea to replace the main battery lead, and make up/purchase a new earth lead from the engine or body to battery as that looks a bit weedy compared to the positive leads off the battery

Good little build thread tho! Shall bookmark and make my way through the rest of it at some point

[cjhillman]

Jan 28, 2021 20:53:27 GMT mk2cossie said:

From the video above of the voltage drop tests, the main lead between battery positive and starter motor positive showed a peak of over 1volt!
I was always told anything over 0.5volt wasn't good.

May be an idea to replace the main battery lead, and make up/purchase a new earth lead from the engine or body to battery as that looks a bit weedy compared to the positive leads off the battery

Good little build thread tho! Shall bookmark and make my way through the rest of it at some point

Thanks mate! Yeah definitely new leads are on the cards, I think you are right on the 1volt drop. I was told Halfords ones are good but i'm also wondering if I should make some fatter ones. The Earths could be better too like you say. Its a nice Car now once it fires and runs. Still a lot more to do I just hope I can get it firing up from cold soon. My Escort on points will fire even when frozen over (just about).
Re-build thread theres a lot to get through haha!! Thanks for replying

[cjhillman]

Ok changed the leads, changed the battery, added an extra earth and its still not firing. Made a little video of the spark which seems weak although, I'm not sure if this is just fouled plugs (even after cleaning them). Not sure if the spark should be better than this? I might go and pick some new plugs up tomorrow to check. Already changed the HT leads (when i got it the other year) Rotor arm and Cap.

[fiestaholic]

i would change the coil usually the cause of a weak spark if you're lucky there will be a part number on the side or bottom of the coil

[kevins]

Feb 1, 2021 23:50:28 GMT fiestaholic said:

i would change the coil usually the cause of a weak spark if you're lucky there will be a part number on the side or bottom of the coil

if I remember correctly it has a sierra electronic ignition, does it have the correct coil for this? they were a lower impedance than the type that would have been fitted to the capri originally, a points one will work but give  a weak spark.

[cjhillman]

Feb 2, 2021 10:35:07 GMT kevins said:

Feb 1, 2021 23:50:28 GMT fiestaholic said:

i would change the coil usually the cause of a weak spark if you're lucky there will be a part number on the side or bottom of the coil

if I remember correctly it has a sierra electronic ignition, does it have the correct coil for this? they were a lower impedance than the type that would have been fitted to the capri originally, a points one will work but give  a weak spark.

Yeah this is the Bosch distributor with separate Lucas DAB752 igniton coil into the above motorcraft coil . I’m just cleaning the plugs up as best as possible and was thinking of picking up so more but, I think if it would spark these would be fine lol . I think i read this system would have a different coil. I was speaking to powerspark over the summer thinking of changing this whole system. Wondering if I could buy a heavy duty coil like their viper ones or would this have a negative effect . Either way I think this set up should have a different coil originally.

[cjhillman]

Ok ... good spark now after cleaning them like mad!! Still didn’t want to fire on its own so not sure what that’s about . Little video if anyone is interested?
I’m going to try and nip out in it over the next couple of days to see if it’s just when it sits