1947 ford ranger...

[welshpug]

I vaguely recall the mention of these different standards, probably on here previously!

They are found on bicycles, Shimano being a large player they do use JIS and there are screwdrivers listed for them by Park Tool.

[glenanderson]

I was introduced to JIS fixings maybe 20 years ago. For a long time you simply couldn’t get them, and most tool suppliers, even the really big ones, couldn’t supply.

[sciclone]

JIS screws are a pain if you can't obtain the proper screwdrivers. To remove them I had to use an twist impact driver to get them out. Then I replaced them with either Allen key or standard hex head bolts.

[Dez]

Dec 29, 2019 22:49:27 GMT welshpug said:

I vaguely recall the mention of these different standards, probably on here previously!

They are found on bicycles, Shimano being a large player they do use JIS and there are screwdrivers listed for them by Park Tool.

It’s where I first encountered them about 20 years ago.
I worked in a bike shop in my teens and after a massive rant about idiots f-king about with derailleurs who didn’t understand what the adjustments on them did and didn’t have the correct screwdriver so all the bolts where cheesed up, I got put in charge of that job on anything that came in. That and the associated cabling, another job literally everyone seems to get wrong. It still amazes me how many professional bike shops don’t understand how to adjust them correctly and don’t have the right tools to work on them.
I had the park screwdriver you refer to, good bit of kit.

[Dez]

Dec 30, 2019 0:24:36 GMT sciclone said:

JIS screws are a pain if you can't obtain the proper screwdrivers. To remove them I had to use an twist impact driver to get them out. Then I replaced them with either Allen key or standard hex head bolts.

If you grind the tip off a Phillips screwdriver it’ll work better than not having one at all. If you look back at the comparison pic I posted the insertion depth is the biggest issue when it comes to rounding them.

[mylittletony]

I've got one JIS screwdriver and it's the most used one of about 20. Used for hard to undo/corroded Philips heads too

Also LOL at those "keys" for the fuel cap, are they made of foil or cheese? Can't quite tell from the pic

[Dez]

Jan 2, 2020 9:47:28 GMT mylittletony said:

I've got one JIS screwdriver and it's the most used one of about 20. Used for hard to undo/corroded Philips heads too

Also LOL at those "keys" for the fuel cap, are they made of foil or cheese? Can't quite tell from the pic

They’re not quite that bad, at least they have a profile to them rather than just being flat plate like a lot are!

[jcreber]

Amazing build thread Dez, been a great read over the Christmas hols (where I have been allowed to sit and read!). Good luck in getting it finished, hope to see you cruising through Manningtree soon!

[Dez]

Jan 4, 2020 10:06:32 GMT jcreber said:

Amazing build thread Dez, been a great read over the Christmas hols (where I have been allowed to sit and read!). Good luck in getting it finished, hope to see you cruising through Manningtree soon!

Should be very soon hopefully!
I’m back to work tomorrow and after a bit of paint it should start going back together pretty quickly.

[Dez]

Borrowed some muscle again as it was a nice dry day, and it made its way outside, and upside down.


Then I ground up that radius on the bottom corner all the way along on both rails. I learnt years ago it’s pretty much impossible to do this neatly and effectively from underneath, and you need to flip a chassis over to do final finish.




The braces on the bottom of the rear crossmember where also welded back on, much easier to do this way up-


Then, I needed to upend the chassis to get all the blasting sand, bits of flaky rust I’d bashed loose when doing the repairs, and any other remaining crud out of the rails before I cavity waxed them.
We tried to just walk it up starting at the front, but it’s way heavier than it looks and kept slipping, and we gave up before it ended up on our heads. So I used some physics and an engine crane-


But I needed it stood on the back end though as that end of the rails was open, and like it is all the detritus is heading for the front crossmember! So I used me as a counterweight on the back end. Hence this rubbish photo.


I banged the chassis up and down on the floor a bit and it soon emptied itself-


I seesawed it back and forth banging each end on the floor till stuff stopped coming out. Much blasting sand and the flaky remains of the chassis rail sections I’d replaced ended up everywhere.


Two shovels full of it is quite a bit. I’m glad I elected to do this before it went back together as there will probably never be another opportunity.


Then it got put back inside. Yes it looks pretty much the same as before! It is genuinely ready for a wipe down and paint now though. The bits I’ve bare metalled will get primed again then the whole thing with get a thicker brushed/rolled second coat on top of the sprayed one.

[Dez]

Finally got around to putting some paint over the new metal.

Keyed it all with 80 grit on the D/A first, wiped it down then just sprayed it where it was as I wasn’t too concerned about any dust in it as you can see absolutely none of it once it’s back together, this is just about protection. Turned out pretty nice though.

Did the bottom side first.






About 45mins later we tuned it over and I did the top side.




Very happy with the finish considering it’s just chassis black, I’m not a painter and I basically painted it in an unswept open workshop.




Now the refit can commence.

[voodoo57]

I am desperate for some 2 inch lowering blocks for my b2500 v reg, would you fabricate another pair?

[Dez]

Jan 10, 2020 21:47:19 GMT voodoo57 said:

I am desperate for some 2 inch lowering blocks for my b2500 v reg, would you fabricate another pair?

Yep I can do, I’ve got one set of U-bolts left.

[voodoo57]

will pm you.

[Deleted]

Looking forward to this coming together Dez.

[Dez]

Jan 11, 2020 20:15:17 GMT @quickrack1 said:

Looking forward to this coming together Dez.

Well, bits are starting to go back on. The paint went off quickly so I got the rear axle bolted up again.



Rear bolt bushes and new shackles were greased so they don’t squeak, and the threads where copperslipped. Same on the front spring eye bolts.



I ordered up some stainless flanged bolts to replace all the snapped ones. Where I could get that size in stainless anyway. M6 and M8 weren’t a problem, couldn’t get the M10 fine for the tank guard though, so they’ll be painted.

Anywhere I have a bracket sitting on to the rails like this I’ve copperslipped the touching surfaces to hopefully prevent corrosion from trapped water in the future. You can just see the excess splurging out the top. Obviously all the bolt holes were chased through with a tap and then they were copperslipped too as the new bolts went in.



I’ve also cleaned up and cold galv sprayed most of the bolts for the front Suspension that will be reused, but I forgot to take a pic. Some will need replacing as they were a bit far gone, and they’re on their way, so it should be a roller again soon.

[Dez]

There has been a lot of this going on.

Clean the bolt (on the wire wheel)

Degrease the bolt

Spray the bolt (with cold galv spray)



It isn’t particularly fun.

As an aside I’ve liberated the balljoint spacers I had on a spare b2000 front end, and modded the lower arms for them.

There don’t actually really lower the truck all that much, they’re 40mm thick which equates to about 2” at the wheels. but what they do do is allow you to retain some precious shock travel. B-series front shocks are very short as stock, so much so they’re used as ‘short shock’ upgrades on other things. But that’s not handy if you want short shocks for one. Afaik there’s nothing shorter. So the easiest way to retain shock travel is space the balljoints up a bit.
These spacers are from way back in the day, from the original minitruck boom. I took em off a proper 90s styled truck I broke up a few years back because it was rather rotten but had a lot of good bits.
I’m looking into getting some more made of anyone is interested in a set.

This is how the balljoints fit as stock, bolted to the lower side of the arm. They have a weird upside-down balljoint and the arm has a upside down cup for it to sit in.


The spacer goes on top of the arm and then the balljoint on top of it, effectively moving the arm down in relation to the wheel, which moves everything else down as well.
But as you can see here the stock ball joint divot gets in the way.


So you have to remove that bit. You just draw round the spacer and then run the lines out to the end of the arm, filing it all smooth so there’s no stress risers. Like so.


It then all fits up without hitting anything. I need to order some new, longer bolts though, there’s were pirated off something else to allow me to bolt it up temporarily.



Then I touched up the paint, I needed to have a go at the arms with a brush anyway to get some paint down inside them after they were blasted, as the spray gun couldn’t get coverage in there.

It’s close to being a roller again!

[stealthstylz]

Looking good dude, just needs some 20" Billet wheels and paint now haha.

[mylittletony]

Or matt black with those lime green steels...

[norfolkshire]

With regards to your comment "Anywhere I have a bracket sitting on to the rails like this I’ve copperslipped the touching surfaces to hopefully prevent corrosion from trapped water in the future. You can just see the excess splurging out the top"; when I was looking at installing a new Phenolic-ply foor to my trailer, I rang the Customer help- line for a company trading as DENSO. I wanted to know if they had a suitable product with which to seperate the ply from the galvanised steel chassis.
DENSO advised me to merely instal a three layer thick, sandwich of their standard DENSO tape down; then bolt it all together. Having pre-drilled the various holes, I found that using a 6" nail, you could pierce holes in the tape, through which the bolt would then go.
I used the same system when bolting various fittings onto my Defender 90 chassis.
DENSO tape, as you probably know, is merely a hessian bandage (various widths available), which is heavily impregnated with some form of thick grease. Usually used to cover pipework in industry, etc...
Since using the tape, as described, I found that the tape squashes down to a minimal thickness; the grease retains its properties, and doesn't go off, even after very long periods of time. This solution certainly stops water ingess between the parts; perhaps may be an option in projects further down the line?