1947 ford ranger...

[Dez]

Nov 23, 2019 23:03:09 GMT @quickrack1 said:

That chassis wouldn't have held up to much of a tap if it got one
Both sides rotted through.

It’s only really some localised bits on the inner faces of each rail, so if you think about it it’s still as strong as any C-channel chassis is to start with. Once I’ve cut those bits out and dropped some fresh 3mm plate it it’ll be stronger than it was from new, as they’re only actually about 2mm thick material.

[grizz]

Dez like with a few builders on here, I cannot add much more than mouthed obscenity of admiration

“Well done” sounds so empty.

Looking back at your fuel tank solution, that little rib around the new tank entry, was it there or did you make it with a special tool?



My C10 tank is a relocated unit from an unknown (suspected Chevy) source and I want to move the filler neck about 300mm further back into the corner by the tailgate next to the bed stake pocket.
I may get away with a differently shaped rubber hose, but you never know what comes up at reassembly time.

Thanks.

[Paul Y]

Think Dez used the Pulmax(?) from a few pages back to make that Rian.

P. : D

[grizz]

Nov 24, 2019 8:40:17 GMT Paul Y said:

Think Dez used the Pulmax(?) from a few pages back to make that Rian.

P. : D

Weirdly, thought I knew the answer, but either missed it or forgot in the mean time.

Thanks.

[Rich]

Regarding your lamps dez you can get a dual function LED in a warm white/amber that cancels the white function when the amber is required. I’m going to use them on the Jeep when I fit US clear turns. I’ll find you a link.

ETA: here ya go.. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182335069256

[Dez]

Nov 24, 2019 10:04:23 GMT grizz said:

Nov 24, 2019 8:40:17 GMT Paul Y said:

Think Dez used the Pulmax(?) from a few pages back to make that Rian.

P. : D

Weirdly, thought I knew the answer, but either missed it or forgot in the mean time.

Thanks.

Yep, as Paul says, the machine and tooling I made a few pages back.

I can perform this task on supplied pipework for a small fee....

[Dez]

Nov 24, 2019 20:46:36 GMT Rich said:

Regarding your lamps dez you can get a dual function LED in a warm white/amber that cancels the white function when the amber is required. I’m going to use them on the Jeep when I fit US clear turns. I’ll find you a link.

Out of all the people I know I thought it may be you who had the answer!
They sound ideal though, I will await you link-age.

[Rich]

Nov 24, 2019 20:50:10 GMT Dez said:

Nov 24, 2019 20:46:36 GMT Rich said:

Regarding your lamps dez you can get a dual function LED in a warm white/amber that cancels the white function when the amber is required. I’m going to use them on the Jeep when I fit US clear turns. I’ll find you a link.

Out of all the people I know I thought it may be you who had the answer!
They sound ideal though, I will await you link-age.

I edited my reply to add it but here it is again. I think these are probably going to be the nicest colour sidelight wise, a warm ‘bulb’ white light.

rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182335069256

[Dez]

Well, with the cab off and on it’s back I’ve been addressing some of the metalwork that needed finishing on it before it’s ready for paint.

I had to weld the back side of the boxing in over the prop bearing crossmember, as it wasn’t accessible from above.

Before-


Welded and ground-


The extraneous bits of tunnel that stuck down below floor level were ground back, mostly to save my knuckles if I ever have to do anything under here. Previously it was sticking down like the unfinished bit at the top here-


I also got the back edge of the trans tunnel to prop tunnel join finished off. Very tricky to do solely from above, much easier when I could work from both sides with the hammer and dolly.
Shaped and Welded-


Ground up. Remember there was no tunnel at all here before.


I welded up and smoothed out the hole I’d cut for a steering column when I was considering making it RHD (we all make mistakes, you just get better at hiding them!)




And on the other side I welded up the old pedal bump stop holes, a big crack in the floor around one of those, and sundry smaller screw holes that were now unneeded.




That’s the lower/underneath section done, onto the firewall and the front part of the trans tunnel hole next...

[Dez]

Nov 24, 2019 20:51:30 GMT Rich said:

Nov 24, 2019 20:50:10 GMT Dez said:

Out of all the people I know I thought it may be you who had the answer!
They sound ideal though, I will await you link-age.

I edited my reply to add it but here it is again. I think these are probably going to be the nicest colour sidelight wise, a warm ‘bulb’ white light.

rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182335069256

Excellent, thanks.
17 notes is a few quid for a pair of bulbs but if they do the split colour function they’re worth it. Only concern is the may be too long to fit behind the comparatively flat lenses. I’ll have to have a measure.

[NudgerSS]

You’re making me want to buy this and have a play. I think if I was at home with my garage it would be a done deal.

[Dez]

Front end on that would probably be even roomier as they’re a 6, so probably a bit easier prospect than mine!

[Dez]

So, that firewall.
After About 50 small bolt/screw holes (sub-1/2” size) being filled
10 big enough to actually need patches
And 3 swages reshaped/terminated
I have this!


The swage here originally ran through the area where the wiring loom hole has now been let in, so it was terminated and the end rounded off. I’ve left the one threaded insert at the bottom for a chassis to body earth strap.


Other side and the swage has been cut in half by the two master cyls, so I rounded off the end of the top section, and reshaped the bottom bit so the swage doesn’t run that way at all. The mounting holes for the brake and clutch master cyls are obvious, the 6 holes further out are for the spreader plate that bolts up over this entire section on the inside.


The view from the inside, as yet unground, shows the amount of work that has gone on!






That lot will all be ground up and metal finished too in due course, as the inside will be finished in a bedliner type product.

Only the front/top of the new transmission tunnel recess to do under here now.

[mrbounce]

Fantastic. This is going to look so good!

[strikey]

sure i've missed it somewhere along the way... but is the exterior staying "as is"? hope so.

[Dez]

Nov 25, 2019 21:37:43 GMT strikey said:

sure i've missed it somewhere along the way... but is the exterior staying "as is"? hope so.

Yes, pretty much.
I’m going for a sort of ‘Trokita’ look, which is basically Mexican traditional lowrider style trucks. Kinda like resto-cal to those from a VW background.
It’ll have all new lights, mirrors, etc (as I’ve posted) and the wheels have to be ‘done’ (I.e. blasted and painted with whitewalls as they are).
All the patina will stay with some preservation, hidden areas underneath will be protected with bedliner over epoxy.
The interior will get work, obviously the seat is retrimmed, although I may get the insert colour changed later. The steering wheel etc is all new, and the dash is going to have to have some changes to accommodate gauges and switchgear so will probably get flaked and pinstriped afterwards. The interior needs to be good as it’s going to be a daily and basically a rolling advert.

[Dez]

Another little bit done in between other things, I repaired the fuel tank splash guard that sits down the side of the tank and protects it from spray within the rear arch.
The earlier versions of these really suffered with tank rot especially in the seams, but on later ones Mazda/Ford have really gone to town to protect them. As well as the tank being coated in a bedliner type product, they have this guard down the outside edge of the tank underneath the chassis rail to keep that side of the tank clean, and a hefty bashguard underneath that also keeps the dirt away.

I got it blasted with all the other stuff as it was a bit crispy, and it came back with holes but not as bad as I expected. It was only the double skinned bits were the mounting tabs were that needed work.

At the back I cut out and replaced these two areas where it was spot welded together. The bracket itself was ok after a grind up.




Reattached-




At the front it was also holed around this little tab that bolts to the front spring hanger, and the stud had broken removing it. Notice the reference measurements for where the stud goes.


Bracket removed and stud replaced by grinding the head off and welding a new bolt on-


And after the holey bit in the panel was patched in it was stuck back on-


And it’s now been chucked in the box with all the other bolt on chassis bits to be painted.

[tristanh]

This truck is cooler than sh1t in a fridge.

[craig1010cc]

Nov 24, 2019 21:10:50 GMT Dez said:

Nov 24, 2019 20:51:30 GMT Rich said:

I edited my reply to add it but here it is again. I think these are probably going to be the nicest colour sidelight wise, a warm ‘bulb’ white light.

rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182335069256

Excellent, thanks.
17 notes is a few quid for a pair of bulbs but if they do the split colour function they’re worth it. Only concern is the may be too long to fit behind the comparatively flat lenses. I’ll have to have a measure.

I e got a set from them that fit behind some pretty flat lenses. They do two types, one that keeps the sidelights on when you indicate (and they pretty much over power the indicators) and a set that cancels the sidelights.

They are a top supplier though, really helpful with sorting any issues with getting them to work

[tristanh]

I like the idea of the sidelights cancelling.