Hillman Avenger Turbo

[lebowski]

I've painted the centre caps with some chrome paint, which is rubbish. I should really have just lacquered over the plating, as it matched better with the rims. But it doesn't matter so much because my friend is designing some stickers for me, which will cover almost all of them.

The rears are flush. The fronts have to stick out a touch to clear the hub covers.

received_235870814938734 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

received_909728983116052 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210317_175400 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

[Granadamk2]

Mar 17, 2021 21:18:04 GMT lebowski said:

IMG_20210317_175400 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

Have to say that this really does look awesome. Excellent work.

[biturbo228]

TBH sticking out a bit looks better to my eye. Not sure why!

Neither look bad at all mind (despite the chrome spray). Nice work.

[varelse]

I reckon the only chrome paints that work are the ones that need the black undercoat.

Looks good though, but I agree the front cap looks better, I think because it looks like its meant to be like that, not an infill.

[lebowski]

Cheers gents. I've ordered a selection cap sticker designs to finish them off. Hopefully one of them will look right.

[lebowski]

I've been getting the car ready for the summer over the last few days.

First I decided to look at the air filter.  The car is fitted with a Mann filter which originally looked like this:

s-l300 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

When I first fitted it, I carefully removed the metal grill as it's probably blocking about 30% of the filter area.  However, this had the knock on effect that the filter tends to bow inwards at the sides as you can see below, which makes fitting the lid correctly difficult.  When I screw down the lid it tries to push the filter inside the airbox, and it's difficult to get it to seal properly.

IMG_20210324_154530 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

To rectify this, I bought a Bosch filter which doesn't have a grill covering the paper element, and has a rigid plastic edge so it can't bow.  Unfortunately, when it arrived I found that it's actually a bit smaller than the Mann filter, and also leaves gaps at the sides due to its size.  So my plan B was to just bend a welding rod to the correct size which holds the filter shape while I fit the lid.  It's a snug fit so it won't pop out.

IMG_20210325_165510 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

It's an MX5 filter, so I'll keep an eye out for a better permanent solution when this one needs changing.

Next I jacked up the car and used the DA sander to remove 9 months of rust from the brake discs.

IMG_20210327_164630 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

I've also had some steering UJs waiting to be fitted for a while, so yesterday I made a DD connection piece and put it on the car.  I don't have any high tensile bolts yet so it will have to wait till Monday before it's ready to drive.  But hopefully I'll be able to take it out this week if the weather's nice.

IMG_20210327_164649 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

[Darkspeed]

Hopefully just assembled for the photo - but you have the joints out of phase.

[lebowski]

I actually initially just cut a 3/4" DD bar for between the joints, which would have left them in phase. I then thought 'actually I think they need to be out of phase' and made the pictured part. You have me doubting myself now!

The steering rack and the column aren't parallel, so I'm not sure if it will make any difference if they are phased or not, as the input and output speed wont be the same either way. The silver uj bolts to the rack, and operates more or less in a straight line (it replaces the rubber donut). The uj at the bottom of the column operates at something like 30 degrees. So I think I am stuck with some fast-slow-fast-slow behaviour either way. I've never noticed this in the Avenger steering so perhaps it's very minor. I guess with steering it's barely noticeable as you only put a small amount of steering angle in at a time.

So do you think I should use the straight DD bar and put them in phase? I suppose it could be a wear issue.

[Darkspeed]

If possible always have them in phase, it’s just best practice.

[lebowski]

Too late! I've just finished assembling it onto the car (out of phase, as per photo). I will keep an eye on it but as I said above, I don't think it matters on the Avenger. The joint is, to all intent and purpose, a single UJ as the bottom one operates in a straight line. Therefore, as far as I can determine, the reason for phasing the joints is negated. If the column and the pinion were parallel but offset, then I agree that phasing the joints would mean that one cancels the other in terms of angular velocity change.

Anyway, it seems to turn fine with no notchiness or tight spots.

I do appreciate the input by the way. Your post made me think about it more thoroughly which is a good thing.

[Darkspeed]

As you say the lower joint is not an articulation but a damper and in effect you are looking at a single joint rather than two. Just worth keeping logged for the future.

[NudgerSS]

When you say out of phase do you mean both end joints should be in the same orientation?

[lebowski]

In phase they would be a mirror image of each other. In my picture above, they are 90 degrees out of phase.

[lebowski]

The centre cap designs finally showed up.

IMG_20210401_125327 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

I decided to go with this one. Just need to order another 3 for the rest of the wheels. Probably not to everybody's taste but I like them.

IMG_20210402_144357 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210402_144133 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210402_144311 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

[stealthstylz]

That looks super cool, almost like a factory option.

[lebowski]

I took it out for its first drive in 9 months yesterday.

IMG_20210403_164010 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210403_163630 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210403_163648 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

IMG_20210403_163721 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr

First impressions were that there are several annoying vibrations/rattles/squeaks which I need to eliminate.  A few are coming from interior items and I'm not sure if even the bonnet might be vibrating at certain rpms.  I may have to get my Dad to drive it while I go rattle-hunting.

I'd like to get the gearbox rebuilt with a longer 1st gear too. The 3.6 first is too short to really get going, but 2nd onwards feels about right.  Something like a 2.8 first gear would probably be good.  An LSD would also be nice, as it breaks traction on one wheel when it comes onto boost in 2nd, even when it's dry.

Apart from that it drove well. I'd say it's probably as fast or faster than the Boxster S which I used to own.  The Boxster was very composed, undramatic and linear in its power delivery, whereas the Avenger has an aggressive surge of torque along with various whoosh-tsshhhh type noises, which makes it slightly terrifying but good fun.

[biturbo228]

Congrats dude! Well earnt first run 👍 if rattles and short gearing are all you've got to complain about I'd say that's a roaring success 👍

[gettinroundtuit]

Impressive. Haven't been in here for a while cos it's been too depressing seeing others getting somewhere & mine languishing in the garage getting buried under more curse word.
However chance phonecall has actually sealed the old girls fate.
Was asked to paint 2 cars for a mate & now have access to a playpen with hoist to work on my nightmare!!
Mate also has a crapi & wants to drive it by Xmas. Compared to his challenge mine should be a walk in the park....... So I want mine running by then too!!!!

[lebowski]

Good stuff. What part of NZ are you in? I spent about 3 years living in the far north.

[gettinroundtuit]

Apr 10, 2021 8:54:38 GMT lebowski said:

Good stuff. What part of NZ are you in? I spent about 3 years living in the far north.

I'm from the other end.... The deep south. Was suggested to add a hairdryer to mine, or heaven forbid rotisserie it. Fortunately my engine builder saw the light & we're staying with a tweaked n/a avenger motor